GMT & World-Time Watches · Page 64

Introducing Maurice Lacroix Aikon Venturer GMT

Maurice Lacroix adds a sporty GMT watch with a uniquely urban modern flair to the Aikon line.

VIDEO: The Bamford x Revolution GMT Joe Cool will light you up with smiles (and a shed-ton of lume)

Imagine an amalgamation of James Dean and the Fonz pepped up with some Bryan Ferry elan and Steve McQueen swagger.  Sure, that’s a formidable combination, but it would still be eclipsed by the unflappable Snoopy when he casually slots on his sunglasses and transforms into the one and only Joe Cool. Now as a tribute … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Bamford x Revolution GMT Joe Cool will light you up with smiles (and a shed-ton of lume) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Andersen Genève, Worldtimers, And The New BCHH Celestial Voyager

A.H.C.I. co-founder Svend Andersen has more than three decades of experience creating world time watches, and the stunning Andersen Genève Tempus Terrae Celestial Voyager, a limited edition commissioned by Benjamin Chee Haute Horlogerie (BCHH), is one of his best.

INTRODUCING: The Farer Lander IV GMT puts a British twist on a classic watch

Every time I encounter a new Farer, I’m looking forward to a double delight. This brand specialises in juxtaposing a very British sense of elegance with an unreserved flourish of colour. The closest thing I can equate the Farer Lander IV GMT to is the Savile Row tailoring of Oswald Boateng, whose immaculate silhouettes are … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Farer Lander IV GMT puts a British twist on a classic watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Andersen Genève and BCHH Collaborate on Double-Crown, Cloisonné World Time

Singaporean collector Benjamin Chee has long been involved in watchmaking as a hobbyist, having set up two brands in the last decade, Maison Celadon for dress watches and Millechron for sports watches. While his earlier endeavours were powered by excellent Vaucher movements, Mr Chee’s latest venture is the most haute horlogerie to date. Taking its name from Mr Chee’s initials, the BCHH Celestial Voyager combines fine watchmaking with metiers d’art in series of pièce unique world-time wristwatches executed by independent watchmaker Andersen Genève. Cased in platinum, each of the seven watches in the series features a cloisonné enamel dial depicting a different stylised map. At the same time, the watches are accented by details like soldered lugs and a mother of pearl inlay on the back. Initial thoughts The Celestial Voyager is typical of Andersen’s products, meaning it’s classical in design and well made in an artisanal manner. But like many of Andersen’s watches, the Voyager is bespoke, so it reflects Mr Chee’s preferences and eye for detail. Take for instance the dial, which is elaborate in a discreet manner. The cloisonné enamel centre is the highlight, and most watches would stop there, but here the cities ring is made of sparkly aventurine glass. Elements like the cities ring play a supporting role, but getting them right often distinguishes the great from the good. The Celestial Voyager gets most of it right, and is one of the better looking...

Harry Winston Unveils the Project Z15

Launched in 2004, the Project Z is Harry Winston’s flagship series within its Ocean line of sports watches, defined by the aluminium-zirconium alloy used for the cases known as Zalium. Traditionally dominated by chronographs and dual time zones, as is typical for a sports watch, the Project Z collection now is now joined by one of the most unusual models to date, the Project Z15. The new model boasts a gently upgraded design and novel mechanics, especially for a sports watch – a regulator-style time display with retrograde seconds, set against a skeletonised dial inspired by New York City’s Art Deco architecture. Initial thoghts Like its elder siblings, the Project Z15 is masculine in style but muted in colour, all about symmetry and clean, geometric lines, which results in a techno-industrial look that’ll appeal to someone who wants an interesting but understated sports watch. The new Z15 is a first for the brand in having a regulator-style display, which means the hours, minutes, and seconds hand indicated on separate axes arranged in a vertical line. The layout is not only vertically symmetrical, it improves readability, as much as possible for an open-worked, regulator dial. Most notable is the retrograde 30-second display, which means the seconds hand returns to zero twice a minute, creating near-constant action on the dial. Interestingly, the skeletonised bridges on the dial finished with a simple, linear graining, giving the face a look that brings to min...

Stories: A Legendary Iranian Pilot and His Rolex GMT-Master

Gunshots ring out with an unnerving cadence, and the chants of angry crowds ring across the city. It is Sunday, February 11, 1979. Come Monday morning, the country’s biggest newspaper hits newsstands with the front page proclaiming: “The Regime Has Disintegrated”. The provisional government collapsed the day before, with the military having returned to its barracks – leaving the Islamic Revolution triumphant. All day long that Monday, a young man ignores the revolutionary chaos as best he can, dedicating himself to picking up the phone every hour and dialling his father’s office at air force headquarters within Doshan Tappeh Air Base in Tehran. Each time his father answers and calmly reassures the son all is well. For a few months now, the son has tried to talk his father into leaving the country. The Shah had already fled and tensions were rising. But each time his old man responded in the same manner, “I am a soldier of this land and my duty calls me to stay.” Not only did the father remain in the country, he dutifully turned up to work every day. Nader Jahanbani (right) with Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, the last Shah of Iran, in the early 1970s; Nader has his GMT-Master on his wrist On that fateful Monday, the son calls at six in the evening and hears his father’s voice. He calls again at seven and his father picks up the phone. An hour later, he dials the number once again and listens to the phone ringing. No one answers. He tries again a few minutes later ...

Introducing: This New Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Is Olympic Gold

The final – at least we think – 2020 Olympics watch.

Review: The New Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Black

Chopard presents the latest iteration of its world time reference, the L.U.C Time Traveler One Black, the first worldtimer ever made in ceramised titanium.

De Bethune DB25 GMT Starry Varius: Stars Connecting The World

One thing that doesn’t change as you travel in the same hemisphere (and only travel east/west) is the night sky. It unites us. And combining watchmaking, travel, and the night sky is a terrific trifecta. The De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius is an incredible synthesis of what makes this brand so great.

Auctions: Nine Highlights From Only Watch 2021

A Unique Royal Oak Jumbo and Tudor Black Bay GMT – and much, much more.

Only Watch 2021: Tudor Black Bay GMT One

Tudor’s entry into Only Watch 2021 is typical – a reinterpretation of one of its current models – but at the same time strikingly unusual. The Black Bay GMT One is a dual time zone with a heavily aged finish on the case and bracelet, along with an open back showing off a movement similar to that found in the recent Black Bay Ceramic. Initial thoughts Tudor’s watches are ordinarily excellent quality and tremendous value, though most are styled within certain aesthetic confines. The brand gets to do things differently at Only Watch, and the Black Bay GMT One is probably the most interesting to date. Most Tudor watches look shiny and new, and even those that acquire a patina remain pristine under the crystal. The GMT One is purposefully aged, even on the dial and movement, which gives it a lived-in look that’s appealing in a sports watch. Granted, the aged bracelet seems a bit much – I’d wear it on a strap – but given that there’ll only be one of these and it’ll sell for about US$350,000 that’s a moot point. Lastly, it’s notable that the GMT One is powered by a Master Chronometer movement, perhaps a reference to the strategic genius of the similar movement found in the Black Bay Ceramic. Slightly worn The GMT One has a case steel and bracelet that are identical to that found on the standard model, except for the surface treatment. Both are finished with a black coating that is then partially and randomly worn off via tumble polishing, creating an aged-...

Auctions: Only Watch 2021 – November 6, Geneva

A biennial charity watch auction that raises money for medical research, Only Watch has just announced the 2021 event takes place in Geneva on November 6, along with most of the 53 unique timepieces that will go under the hammer. Attended by the great and the good of Swiss watchmaking, Only Watch auctions have long enjoyed the support of leading watchmakers who exercise their best efforts to create one-off timepieces that are sold to support research into a cure for Duchenne muscular dystrophy. Only Watch was founded by Luc Pettavino, whose late son Paul was stricken by the illness. Mr Pettavino’s unfailing dedication to both Only Watch and his son’s memory has raised over €70 million to date. Luc Pettavino at Only Watch 2019 Many of the unique timepieces created for the event are landmarks in themselves, explaining why Only Watch has traditionally been a venue for record-setting prices, most notably the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A in steel that sold for CHF31 million in 2019. Highlights this year include a Tudor Black Bay GMT in an aged-gunmetal finish, possibly the very last Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15202 (a model that will be discontinued at year’s end), and the imaginative F.P. Journe “Francis Ford Coppola”. And what will likely be the most valuable lot in the auction is not a wristwatch, but instead the Patek Philippe desk clock ref. 27001M-001 inspired by a timekeeper made for automobile tycoon James Ward Packard in 1923. We will c...

Worldtimers, Erotic Watches, And Poker-Playing Dogs: A.H.C.I. Co-Founder Svend Andersen Has (Semi-) Retired, But His Brand Lives On – Reprise

Late in 2015 the news came through that A.H.C.I. co-founder Svend Andersen had sold his company. But how did Andersen get here? Let's take a quick tour of more than half a century's worth of independent horology the Danish way to find out, which includes an extravaganza of worldtimers, unusual erotic watches, and even poker-playing dogs.

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT

Being best known for its aviation-instrument watches, it is logical that Bell & Ross also does well with watches that keep track of a second, and now a third, time zone. The brand’s catalogue includes a variety of travel watches, with the latest being the BR 03-93 GMT. It’s an improved version of the brand’s longstanding dual time zone in a square case, now enhanced with a bi-directional, 24-hour bezel in “Coke” colours that allow it to display the time in up to three places. Initial thoughts Bell & Ross (B&R) launched the original BR 03-93 GMT in 2016, which was the brand’s first wristwatch to combine the signature square case with a second time zone. The first-generation model has a fixed bezel, limiting its functionality to just two time zones. Subsequently, B&R introduced a model with a rotating, 24-hour bezel – allowing it to track a third time zone – but in a more conventional round case. The BR V2-93 GMT, the first B&R watch to feature a bi-directional, 24-hour bezel. Photo – B&R While the square BR 03 case and rotating second time zone bezel might seem like an obvious combination, it has never existed, until now. The new BR 03-93 GMT is the first to install a bi-directional, 24-hour bezel on the brand’s best-known case design. Given B&R’s roots in “tool” watches for pilots and other professionals, I’m surprised that it took as long as it did for B&R to combine the two. The 24-hour bezel is executed in the familiar halves of black and...

Introducing the Bamford × Revolution GMT Joe Cool

INTRODUCING: The Rake & Revolution x Bamford London Snoopy GMT “Joe Cool”

It is no secret that the watch world has a huge soft spot for Snoopy. Omega has leveraged the beloved Peanuts character in various Omega Speedmaster references, the latest of which commands quite a waiting list at retailers today. We have even seen our friend George Bamford experiment with the character in his GMT line, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Rake & Revolution x Bamford London Snoopy GMT “Joe Cool” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Russian Clockmaker Anton Suhanov Debuts His First Wristwatch

Anton Suhanov is best known for impressive desk clocks – the most recent of which features a triple-axis tourbillon within a metallic flower – but he has just unveiled his first timekeeper for the wrist. Inspired by automotive gauges, the Racer Jumping Hour GMT is an inventive take on the dual time zone wristwatch and boasts a double retrograde display along with a jumping hour. Initial thoughts His talents were already evident in his desk clocks, but Mr Suhanov now proves he can be equally imaginative with wristwatches. He once worked in Konstantin Chaykin’s workshop, which perhaps contributed to the novel design. Automotive-inspired watches rarely capture the style of a dashboard without looking silly, but the Racer manages to do so successfully. The design instantly evokes the dashboard of a vintage automobile thanks to several clever design elements, including the tiny canopies over each retrograde display as well as the arched guilloche and tiny jump hour winds that gives the dial a sense of perspective. The Racer is more complex than it looks – the time-display module has as many parts as an entire chronograph movement – although the base movement is a tried and true, but no-frills ETA 2824. Still, with a price of a bit over US$17,000, the Racer offers good value given the original design and mechanical complexity, most of which is accomplished in-house by Mr Suhanov. Inventive design and mechanics The slightly retro dial indicates the hours and minutes o...

Editors' Picks: Remembering A Fallen Kingdom With A Royal Rolex

A royal Laotian legacy lives on in a Rolex GMT-Master 1675.

Introducing: The New 140th Anniversary Grand Seiko Quartz GMT

Part of a trio of new GMT watches in the brand's Sport Collection.

Auctions: Hands-On With The Ultra-Rare Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 'Eurasia Dial' Hitting The Block At Phillips

This previously unknown cloisonné enamel world timer is estimated to sell for approximately $3.8 million at the Geneva Auction in May.

Vintage Watches: A 1987 Patek Philippe Ref. 3940J 'First Series,' A 1961 Breitling Navitimer, And A 1985 Rolex GMT-Master

In a week where new watches are the talk of the town, consider this a part of the "& More."

Introducing: The Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph 5990/1R-001

Hatchi matchi, now in rose gold.

Hands-On: The Norqain Freedom 60 GMT With Two Sweet New Dials

Drink Pepsi, or take a walk in the forest?