Hodinkee
In-Depth: A Conversation With AnOrdain Founder Lewis Heath
The Glasgow watchmaker's founder talks waitlists, moonphases, and being known as a watchmaker, not an enameler.
Moonphase Watches · Page 13
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw Unveils the “Amsterdam Star”
Best known for its astronomical complications, Christiaan van der Klaauw (CVDK) has created a special run of its chronograph with complete calendar and moon phase for its retailer in the Netherlands. The Ace x Christiaan van der Klaauw stAriadne Amsterdam Star is preserves the original design but adds a “fog grey” dial with star-shaped indices inspired by the “Stelline” dials found on 1950s Rolex watches. Initial thoughts The independent brand’s collaboration with Ace Jewelers is logical since both hail from the same country. The stAriadne stands out with its star indices that replaces the Arabic numerals of the standard model. A nod to the Rolex ref. 6062, star dials are relatively rare in contemporary timepieces, rendering this release quite distinctive. That being said, this is essentially an Ariadne with a new dial. Ideally, it would have been more interesting with mechanical tweaks to the largely standard Valjoux chronograph movement, a reliable but thick movement with shortish power reserve. But considering it is a limited edition of 50 pieces priced at €7,180 – about the same as the standard model – it is a reasonable proposition. A “star” dial The stAriadne is the latest iteration of the Ariadne, one of the longstanding models in the CVDK line-up. Since its launch, the model has been powered by the Valjoux 7758, a variant of the familiar 7750 chronograph movement that has the addition of a complete calendar and moon phase. Last year, the Ari...
Deployant
New: Hermès Arceau Petite Lune ciel étoilé
Hermès extends their Arceau collection with a moonphase - the Petite Lune ciel étoilé, so named after the starry skies over Paris.
Time+Tide
Zenith adds a moonphase to the Chronomaster Original and blings out the Sport
A "what if?" update to a legend, more green, and a classy, gem-set number.The post Zenith adds a moonphase to the Chronomaster Original and blings out the Sport appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Zenith Revives the El Primero Triple Calendar
Zenith revisits one of its signature historical models with the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. It is the Chronomaster Original we know and love, but with a twist: the addition of the day, month, and moon phase while maintaining the same dimensions as the chronograph-only model. Powered by the latest-generation El Primero 3610 with “lightning” seconds, the Triple Calendar makes its debut in three colourways, white, grey and a boutique-exclusive green. Initial thoughts Although popular among enthusiasts, the Chronomaster Original is arguably undiscovered territory for many because it has been overshadowed by Chronomaster Sport, a watch famous for resembling the Rolex Daytona. However, the Chronomaster Original offers better aesthetics and proportions compared to its slightly derivative Sports sibling. The compact 38 mm case sits comfortably on most wrists, while having enough presence to feel like a larger sports watch. Compared to the standard Chronometer Original, the Triple Calendar adds a few complications into the mix and evokes the well known vintage original. Importantly, it is not only a vintage remake since it utilises the latest-generation El Primero movement with a “lighting” central seconds. The Triple Calendar is, however, pricey. It costs US$13,400 on a calfskin strap and a bit more on a stainless steel bracelet. That’s about 30% more than the base model Chronomaster Original, which feels like a lot for simple-calendar functions. That said, th...
Time+Tide
The Citizen Tsuki-yomi A-T makes moonphases actually feel important
Mechanical precision moonphases, step aside - this Citizen has one adjusted by an atomic clock.The post The Citizen Tsuki-yomi A-T makes moonphases actually feel important appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Moon Inception, The Moonphase Revisited by Code41
Code41 was founded in 2016 by Claudio d’Amore with an emphasis on bold styling and community involvement. Input from watch enthusiasts helps shape new designs and ultimately production watches, creating a sense of community that’s fairly unique in the industry. Recent examples include the NB24 Chronograph and Mecascape table/pocket clock, which are anything but conventional […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Code41 Moon Inception
Today, we’ll take a look at the new Code41 Moon Inception. The latest model from the popular independent brand includes a moonphase display along with the option of a chronometer certification. As we’ll see, the watch offers a very different take on the complication, and I think it succeeds in its execution. I’ll kick this […] Visit Introducing: The Code41 Moon Inception to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Three New Watches Celebrate the Year of the Wood Dragon
The Lunar New Year is set to begin on Feb 10th, coinciding with the date of the new moon, which will fall at 22:59 UTC on February 9th. This will be the Year of the Wood Dragon, which is said to bring authority, prosperity, and good fortune. We are in luck, as the good fortune starts early with multiple releases from many brands celebrating the new Lunar Year. Here are three stand out releases. First up, the Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Dragon. Since 2020, the Blast Tourbillon has been Ulysse Nardin’s symbol of unconventional know-how and for this Lunar New Year, they are quite literally releasing their inner dragon. They have crafted a 5N rose gold hand-sculpted dragon that coils its way around and through the skeletonized “X” structure. The entire case is made of 5N rose gold and DLC coated titanium. Limited to 88 pieces, it is 45mm in diameter and the MSRP of $100,600. Next up is the Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar. In 2012 Blancpain achieved a world first, with a watch that combined both the complex Chinese calendar and a Gregorian date and moonphase. To celebrate the Lunar New Year, Blancpain has engraved a dragon on the red gold rotor flanked by a red ruby. This ultra complicated movement has 464 individual components on 6 layers and its complexity nearly matches that of a minute repeater. The dial has been created in full fired grand feu enamel, its green color harmonizing with the red gold case. Limited to 50 pieces, it is also 45mm in d...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar, with Green Enamel Dial for 2024
In 2012, Blancpain introduced the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar, an extremely complex watch fusing the Chinese and Gregorian calendars, complete with a moon phase complication that coincided with the Year of the Dragon. Twelve years have passed, and the dragon is back in the limelight again. To mark this twelve-year cycle, Blancpain’s latest interpretation of […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Blue Enamel Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon
Jaeger-LeCoultre‘s Master Thin collection is home to sophisticated, understated, ultra-thin dress watches ranging from time-and-date to moon phase models and more complex proposals like tourbillons and perpetual calendars. Offered with understated beige or sunray decorated dials, JLC introduced métiers d’art dials to the collection at the end of 2018. First appearing on the Master Ultra […]
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Master Chronometer Chronograph
Buzz Aldrin's footprint is visible on the moonphase display. Seriously.
Deployant
New: Longines Flagship Heritage Year of the Dragon
Longines celebrates the Year of the Dragon 2024 with a special edition of the Flagship Heritage model with moonphase. Limited edition 888 pcs.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Longines Heritage Flagship Moonphase Year of the Dragon
The Chinese New Year provides many watch companies with the perfect excuse to produce a special edition decorated with one of the twelve animals of the Chinese Zodiac. This year is the Year of the Dragon, and, for the first time, Longines jumps on the Chinese New Year bandwagon with a limited edition of 888 […]
Quill & Pad
Ming 37.05 Moonphase: Form Over Function has Rarely Looked Better - Reprise
The Ming 37.05 Moonphase launched and very quickly sold out, but it’s been on Joshua Munchow's mind ever since it debuted. Here he explains why - and why he wants one!
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: An Incredible Parmigiani Fleurier Pocket Watch, Zuck’s Hawaiian Bunker, and the 100 Best TV Shows of All Time
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Parmigiani Fleurier L’armoriale Pocket Watch Sometimes we get word of a watch that is just too beautiful and special not to feature. It’s become a tradition for Parmigiani Fleurier to create a special, completely unique pocket watch every year to celebrate founder Michel Parmigiani’s birthday, and this year they’ve really outdone themselves with a watch they’re calling L’armoriale. The heart of the timepiece is a mechanical caliber dating to 1890 that was restored by Parmigiani in 1985. Originally a chronograph minute repeater, the movement now features both of those complications as well as a perpetual calendar with a moonphase, a pretty incredible demonstration of Parmigiani’s skill as a watchmaker as well as his devotion to restoration and preserving and sometimes even enhancing horological history. The white gold case features a beautiful enameled caseback, and of course virtually everything here is completely handmade and hand finished, down to the intricate chiseled adornments that run across the case band. It’s a real work of art, worth spending some time gawk...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Arnold & Son Luna Magna and Perpetual Moon Dedicated to the Year of the Dragon
It makes perfect sense for Arnold & Son to dedicate its spectacular moon phase models to honour the Chinese New Year. After all, the moon plays a vital role in determining the Chinese New Year. According to the Chinese lunisolar calendar, the New Year usually falls on the second new moon after the winter solstice, […]
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound Hosts First Official Partner Event in Citizen’s New York City Boutique
When the Citizen Group opened the doors of its first multi-brand boutique in North America, Worn & Wound was honored to be the first partner to host an event within its walls. This week, a slew of exhilarated enthusiasts poured into the doors of their 5th Ave flagship store with one thought on their minds-mix and mingle surrounded by Citizens (watches, that is)! Just across the street from the holiday fervor embodied by Rockefeller Center in December, the all-new Citizen multi-brand boutique was less than a week old as Worn & Wound readers and guests found their way in. The main floor of the externally well-appointed shop is focused on the Citizen brand, with a large swath of their domestic models and a selection of some hard-to-find and new releases reserved explicitly for this new shopping experience. Dozens upon dozens of guests, many sporting their own Citizen examples and with drinks in hand, were introduced to the latest Super Titanium cases, Promaster divers, and handsome go anywhere/do anything solutions. As guests made their way up to the mezzanine and beyond, Citizen’s other brands-including Bulova, Accutron, Alpina, and Frederique Constant-rounded out the complete Citizen Group experience. At the center of the evening was the new Tsuki-yomi A-T being raffled off toward the night’s end. This particular watch contains the world’s first light-powered atomic timekeeping moon phase movement. At first glance, you might think this Super Titanium watch is...
Hodinkee
Staff Picks: The Best Complicated Watches Of 2023
Chronographs, world timers, moon phases, grand comps, and (somehow) even more. 2023 was a complicated year.
Worn & Wound
The Sophomore Effort from Indie Havid Nagan Modernizes a Classic Complication
In the sea of vintage-inspired, sport-watch focused microbrands – with which there is nothing wrong, of course – are a select few brands who seem to have stumbled upon an aesthetic that is uniquely theirs. One such example is Havid Nagan whose 2021 debut model was aptly named HN00. We were impressed with it and covered it here, and today Havid Nagan is back with the follow-up to its opening shot: Introducing the HN01 Lucine, Havid Nagan’s interpretation of, and ode to, the moonphase. So what changed and what hasn’t? The closest thing the two watches share are their cases: The HN01 titanium cushion-esque case keeps the same 40.2mm diameter as its predecessor but has slimmed down from 11.6mm thick to only 10.2mm. Its profile has also been massaged slightly to better accentuate its profile. This is even more impressive when you consider the effort required to fit an entirely new complication module inside. The HN01 Lucine’s powertrain is a Chronode base movement that has been heavily modified to include a moonphase module (which itself has been improved to err only one day from every 2.5 years to every 11.6 years). The module itself, which displays the moon at 12 o’clock, contains two photorealistic moons that float on a “mystery” style transparent sapphire wheel. Havid Nagan has also taken it upon themselves to decorate the movement with hand-applied anglage and additional perlage clouds on the mainplate (both sides) and skeletonized bridges. There is also a...
Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon: The Most Complicated Wristwatch Produced by Patek Philippe - Reprise
The Patek Philippe 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon launched in platinum for the 2001 model year, the 12-complication featured two dials. Dial one was devoted to a moonphase indicator and a perpetual calendar with retrograde date display. On the sub-dial display for months, simple text promised a tourbillon regulator within the case.
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Continues to Explore Aventurine with the C63 Celest
Last month, Christopher Ward announced the C1 Moonphase, which features a beautiful aventurine dial and a pair of oversized, fully lumed moon discs to track the lunar cycle from month to month. If you thought that watch was cool, but maybe you’re not particularly interested in a moon phase complication, the C63 Celest might be more up your alley. This new reference from Christopher Ward trades on the same style of aventurine dial, but dispenses with the moon altogether. The result is a more straightforward watch that puts the unique qualities of aventurine on center stage. The C63 Celest is the first watch outside of Christopher Ward’s Moonphase Collection to feature an aventurine dial. Because the effect of aventurine often mimics a starry night sky, it’s used frequently in watches that feature a moonphase, but without this additional complication, one can admire the material more for what it is. Simply put, it’s a type of glass that’s formed by mixing multiple types of glass together during production, including metallic elements (usually copper) that wind up giving the material a specific tonality and the trademark “star” effect. In the “Galaxy Blue” aventurine used by Christopher Ward, cobalt is used to give the dial its flat, cool blue finish. The Celest is built on Christopher Ward’s C63 platform, and measures a conservative 36mm in diameter. While this case was certainly conceived as a sports watch case through and through, there’s no doubt...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the ochs und junior Settimana Seasons “Autumn”
There are relatively few brands out there that don’t need a name on the dial. Sure, you can tell apart a Submariner, Seamaster, and Aquis with all branding removed. But how about recognizing a whole brand rather than a single model? One brand that doesn’t need a name or logo on their watches, yet still remain distinctive and recognizable to many enthusiasts is ochs und junior. From displaying the date through a series of holes around the dial, through to a moon phase complication accurate to 1 day every 122 years, the brand has continued to push ingenuity in function and display while keeping steadfastly true to its design ethos. Like many others, my admiration for the brand and designs have continued to grow, yet this is the first time I’ve held one in my hands. $2300 Hands-On: the ochs und junior Settimana Seasons “Autumn” Case Titanium Movement Sellita SW200-1 Dial Light Orange Lume SuperLuminova Lens Sapphire Strap Textile Water Resistance 50 meters Dimensions 40 x 41mm Thickness 13mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $2300 The watch I’m looking at today forms part of ochs und junior’s more affordable (and non-customizable) collections. What you see offered is what you can get. There is no choice of case material. No long list of dial, hand, disc and marker combinations. For some customers this probably doesn’t represent the full ochs und junior experience. For others, like me, restricting the choices to a small selection of pre-defined...
Revolution
On The Wrist with Revolution x De Rijke & Co. Miffy Double Moonphase “Black & Pink”
Our favorite rabbit on the moon is back. The Revolution x De Rijke & Co. Miffy Double Moonphase “Black & Pink” adopts this beautiful light blush tone, and continues the story of two Miffies sitting on crescent moons, set against a backdrop of a midnight blue sky blanketed by stars. And just as Miffy the […]
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