The most romantic complication. From classical Patek and Lange moonphases through De Bethune's 3D spherical lunar disc, the moonphase is watchmaking's most-loved decorative complication.
Photo: Monochrome · Jun 25, 2026
A moonphase complication shows the current phase of the moon as a small disc rotating through a "bay" cutout on the dial. The standard mechanism rotates one full disc cycle every 59 days (two lunar cycles of 29.5 days each); the disc is painted with two moon images visible through the dial cutout. Standard moonphases drift by 1 day every 32.5 months; astronomical-grade moonphases (Patek 5159, Lange 1815 Moonphase, A. Lange Datograph Perpetual) drift by 1 day every 122 years. Modern De Bethune built a 3D spherical moonphase with palladium and blued-steel hemispheres rotating to show actual lunar visibility from Earth.
Moonphase watchmaking dates to the 16th century (early astrolabe pocket watches and ecclesiastical clocks). The wristwatch moonphase was rare until the 1980s; the Patek Philippe ref. 3940 perpetual calendar (1985) and the Patek 5396 annual calendar with moonphase (1996) re-opened the category at the haute-horlogerie tier. Today every serious complications house has at least one moonphase reference; mid-tier brands offer cheaper but mechanically simpler implementations.
The mechanism: a 59-tooth wheel driven by a daily-advance finger, rotating a disc with two moon images. The 59-tooth ratio gives 29.5 days per moon, matching the lunar synodic month to within 44 minutes. Astronomical-grade moonphases use a 135-tooth or 270-tooth wheel for the longer drift period. A. Lange & Söhne's 1815 Moonphase and the modern Patek 5159 are the canonical haute-horlogerie modern references.
The visual language matters as much as the mechanism. Patek tends toward gold-on-blue-lacquer disc with hand-painted stars; Lange uses an unembellished blued-steel disc against frosted gold; H. Moser & Cie. often integrates the moonphase into the fume dial as an almost-invisible feature; De Bethune's 3D spherical moonphase rejects the disc entirely. See also: moonphase wiki, perpetual calendar.
Monochrome
The Prague Astronomical Clock in the Czech Republic is the oldest mechanical tracker of celestial events that remains operational today. Introduced in 1410, it displays the relative positions of the sun, moon and zodiac, although Richard of Wallingfordâs clock from 1330 was able to track the sun throughout the year to predict moon phases and [âŠ]
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From now until July 18, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) is exhibiting the sixth edition of its Collectibles programme at the brandâs boutique in London. The occasion offered an opportunity to sit down with CEO JĂ©rĂŽme Lambert to understand what the brand hopes to achieve with its Collectibles exhibitions. Launched in 2023, the concept stems from the eponymous book that assembled a dream collection of vintage JLC watches. Since then, museum-grade pieces have been sourced from around the world, restored in the brandâs dedicated workshop â without altering their patina â and presented for sale through travelling exhibitions. Triple Calendar with Moonphase from 1946. The capsule collection assembled for the London edition features seven Reverso models alongside five other rare watches, including a 1946 Triple Calendar with moon phase. With one exception â a small 1931 Reverso â all 12 watches had found buyers within hours of opening. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Yannick Nardin (YN):Â What is the purpose of the Collectibles programme? Is it a commercial, strategic or heritage-driven initiative? JĂ©rĂŽme Lambert (JL): All of those dimensions played a role in its creation. First, there were our conversations with collectors. Many expressed a desire to acquire exhibition or museum pieces, while others approached us to authenticate watches they had purchased through dealers. Two-tone Reverso from 1941. At the same time, following the great JLC exhibitions of...
Monochrome
Van Cleef & Arpels approaches watchmaking as a medium for storytelling. The brandâs Poetic Complications line, launched in 2006, unites its high jewellery and artistic expertise with sophisticated mechanical movements to bring these stories to life. Expanding its Jour Nuit collection, Van Cleef adds a moon phase complication with on-demand animation inside the majestic Midnight [âŠ]
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Few modern moon-phase watches place the lunar display at the centre of the experience quite like Arnold & Sonâs Perpetual Moon. Since its introduction over 10 years ago, the collection has served as a showcase for the brandâs fascination with astronomy, with numerous variants released. Now, Arnold & Son revisits this signature model with three [âŠ]
Monochrome
Since 2005, the Longines Master Collection has been the brandâs flagship line of traditional mechanical watchmaking. While the collection includes more complex models such as chronographs, moon phases and GMTs, the core, conservative Master Collection mainly comprises time-only models. The latest news from the winged hourglass brand is the release of the new, fully redesigned [âŠ]
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Christiaan van der Klaauw (founded in 1974 in the Netherlands) has dedicated itself almost exclusively to astronomical complications, creating wristwatches that display celestial phenomena with remarkable mechanical ingenuity. From planetariums to highly accurate moon phases, the brand turns astronomy into wearable mechanical art. Following the introduction of its new in-house CKM-01 calibre in 2024, this [âŠ]
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Oris first launched the Artelier Calibre 113 in 2017 as a dressy watch, alongside the brandâs divers and pilot pieces and this movementâs variants, the Calibre 111, the GMT Calibre 114, the Calibre 112 with moon phase and, of course, the base version, the Calibre 110. Powered by the powerful Calibre 113, this Artelier model [âŠ]
Hodinkee
Each spring for the last 152 years, 20 of the fastest horses in the country line up to run at legendary Churchill Downs racetrack in Louisville, Kentucky. In the two minutes that follow, the world holds its breath, watching as history unfolds. For the past 15 years, Swiss watchmaker Longines has been the official timekeeper of the Kentucky Derby and, in 2013, became the title sponsor of the Kentucky Oaks, which takes place the day before. It's a weekend of splendor that has transcended the equestrian world, becoming the social event of the season. Longines Spirit Pilot Flyback Chronograph and Primaluna Moonphase. Longines' legacy in the equestrian world predates the derby itself, with the brand producing pocket watches and chronographs featuring equestrian motifs as early as 1869. Their chronographs were later utilized by racecourses towards the end of the 1800s. From there, Longines has been involved in nearly every aspect of competitive horsemanship throughout the 20th and now into the 21st century, from flat racing to Show Jumping, Dressage, and Eventing, serving as the official timekeeper and sponsor of some of the most prestigious competitions in the world. Georgia Benjamin's (@Georgiabenj) watch dial themed hat for the Kentucky Oaks. The Kentucky Derby, which this year boasted its highest viewership in history with nearly 20 million viewers, has been held at the historic Churchill Downs racetrack since its inception. There have been many historic races over the past ...
Fratello
In 1996, Patek Philippe launched a watch to bridge the gap between its dress watches and perpetual calendars. The brand needed more sales; the Nautilus was not a hype watch yet, so what did Patek do? It launched a classic calendar watch that looked like a perpetual calendar, but it actually was a watch with [âŠ] Visit Hands-On With The Stylish And Practical Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Moon Phase to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The watches made by Dutch independent De Rijke & Co. are all charming and considered designs, but itâs difficult to trace any defined throughline between them. While most upstart brands tend to find their lane and iterate on a concept ad nauseam, De Rijke has consistently kept us on our feet while avoiding the creative quicksand that can come with a successful watch. The brand first made a splash with the Amalfi, a smart, Bauhaus-informed driverâs watch with a clever two-piece case design that could be rotated through 90 degrees to orient the dial at the ideal angle for the wearer to read while their hands gripped a steering wheel or handlebars. The Amalfi had a timeless design and a romantic origin story that involved the brandâs founder, designer and engineer Laurens De Rijke, embarking upon an 11,000 kilometer Vespa tour of the Amalfi Coast. It was a basic design that De Rijke couldâve played with and re-editioned to death, and while the brand has iterated on the Amalfi concept, the approach theyâve taken was wholly unexpected. The watches that followed the debut Amalfis were a series of limited edition collaborations featuring the iconic Dutch cartoon character âMiffy.â The Miffy collabs have featured everything from moonphase designs, to enameled dials, to ceramic cases. While they were a surprisingly playful and whimsical way to follow up an elegant, functionalist watch like the Amalfi, these limited editions all became bonafide hitsâto the point ...
Monochrome
The latest evolution of the Union GlashĂŒtte Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase moves from classical to a more technical, contemporary appearance. One of the brandâs most recognisable models, this new version introduces an openworked dial and a fresh âSteel Blueâ colour, bringing modern dynamism and versatility to an otherwise familiar watch. The Belisar line has always [âŠ]
Hodinkee
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Monochrome
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Jump hours, moon phases, hidden dials, and more, Van Cleef & Arpels continues to blend watchmaking, storytelling and jewellery for 2026The post Van Cleef & Arpels unveils its 2026 novelties, continuing to blend watchmaking, jewellery and storytelling appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Oris first introduced its Artelier Complication in 1991 alongside the Caliber 581, which notably featured a moonphase module developed in-house by the brand. The release marked another significant moment for the maison in its commitment to manufacture movements following the quartz crisis. The modelâs presence ultimately faded but received new life in 2017 with an updated design that featured a more modern, cleaner style with slimmer, tapered lugs, and a redesigned bezel. At Watches & Wonders, we get the next evolution of the Artelier Complication. Â The newest incarnation gives us another redesign from the 2017 edition while keeping the focus on highlighting the romantic moonphase. This updated take on the Artelier Complication comes from 24-year-old Lena Huwiler, Orisâs new Product Design Engineer. Huwiler has been able to achieve the perfect balance between honoring the modelâs place in the history of the brand and propelling it forward with a design that will resonate with her generation. An old soul at heart, Huwiler admits she does not just find inspiration online but still appreciates architecture, crafts, and interior design. She clearly brings the duality of these sensibilities into her design for the new Artelier Complication. Here, Huwiler has given an Oris classic a modern, urban profile and reworked the moonphase display designed by and for the next generation of watch collectors. The major update here is in the complication and how it is presented thank...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne turns once again to its greatest hits for its flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2026. The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar âLumenâ bestows the translucent, luminous treatment to the top-of-the-line Lange 1 in a 50-piece limited edition in platinum. Powered by the L225.1, an upgrade on the previous generation movement, the latest Lumen edition has a grey-tinted sapphire dial that reveals glow-in-the-dark elements, including the date discs and moon phase. Over the back, the edition is also set apart by a pair of steel cocks sporting engraving of stars. Initial thoughts The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar âLumenâ stands out as one of the most appealing Lumen models; Iâd rank it up there along with the original Zeitwerk âPhantomâ in terms of appeal. The Lumen treatment works best with lot of obvious luminous components, which is the case here. Flourishes like the luminous bases for each of the Roman hour numerals are a pleasing touch. The twin engraved steel cocks are especially noteworthy; the concept is classic Lange but the engraved star motif adds variety. That said, the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar âLumenâ scores highly, maybe even perfectly, in terms of intrinsic and tactile appeal. The technical accomplishment is also top class: the calendar is instantaneous, movement construction is sophisticated, and decoration is outstanding. But this arguably scores less well in terms of originality or creativity. The moveme...
Fratello
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Monochrome
When I think of an affordable complicated watch, something like the Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase comes to mind with a full calendar, chronograph, moon phase and 24-hour time (as a day/night indicator). Thatâs amateur level, however, when it comes to grand complications and the five most complicated watches on this list of this ABCs [âŠ]
Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
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