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Moonphase Watches · Page 8

Introducing - The Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Moon Phase in Rose Gold Monochrome
Oct 23, 2024

Introducing - The Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Moon Phase in Rose Gold

In 1893, Johannes Dürrstein, a distributor for A. Lange & Söhne, founded his own watchmaking business, which eventually evolved into what we now know as Union Glashütte. Today, the Swatch Group-owned brand is famous for keeping the traditions and aesthetics of Saxon watchmaking, offering a range of competitively priced models across seven collections. The 1893 […]

The Habring² Oskar is a Classical Moon Phase SJX Watches
Oct 15, 2024

The Habring² Oskar is a Classical Moon Phase

Described by Habring² as “a relative of Felix“, the Oskar shares the brand’s signature A11 movement but gains a calendar module, with the seconds at six or central. Launched to mark the 20th anniversary of Habring², the Oskar makes its debut in three different variants, a pair with date-and-moon and the final model with just a moon phase. All three feature the same classical aesthetic with Breguet numerals and a compact, 38.5 mm case. Initial thoughts The Oskar is an excellent example of what the Austrian independent has to offer – appealing, clean aesthetics paired with the excellent, proprietary A11 movement, and a price tag of well under US$8,000. And the Oskar also reflect Habring²’s technical competence that the brand managed to squeeze the complication module into a 9 mm high case, with the movement alone being just 5.5 mm high. Admittedly, the vintage-inspired styling might be a little generic, although it is easily appealing. The design is well-executed with a properly proportioned dial and thoughtful details. As is typical for Habring², the Oskar is an honest product and an excellent value proposition, with the moon phase model priced at €6,050 and the moon phase with pointer date about 10% more. Mid century style  The case is a simple, fuss-free affair that is similar to that found on other Habring² models, including the Felix. Entirely polished, the stainless steel case is 38.5 mm in diameter and 9 mm in thickness for both versions. All three m...

Introducing: The Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase In Three New Colors Fratello
Oct 10, 2024

Introducing: The Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase In Three New Colors

The Longines Heritage collection is my favorite one in the brand’s catalog. I especially like the Sector Dial, but many other models are also tastefully done. Last year, Longines added the Flagship Heritage Moonphase to the collection. Lex looked at the version with a silver sunburst dial, but blue and matte silver versions also came […] Visit Introducing: The Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase In Three New Colors to read the full article.

Modern Hues for the Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase SJX Watches
Oct 8, 2024

Modern Hues for the Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase

Sporting a moon phase and retro design, the Flagship Heritage Moonphase was originally available only in sedate colours of cream and silver. Now the line grows to include dials in Havana beige, anthracite and green. Unlike the recent Conquest Heritage, the Moonphase is not a vintage reproduction, rather it’s a blend of vintage and modern, with the bonus of a solid 18k gold medallion on the back portraying a caravel on a blue sea of grand feu enamel. Initial thoughts The new trio are essentially cosmetic expansions of the line, so they do not seem novel on paper, but they are a smartly conceived products. The traditional styling is preserved, but with dials in striking colours that are now much more lively. The earlier versions were arguably too plain, with the subdued colours seeming a bit flat. The Flagship Heritage Moonphase is one of Longines’ more expensive models at US$3,050, but nonetheless is decent value considering the top-of-the-line ETA movement and solid-gold, hand-enamelled emblem on the back. Calendar complications Like most models in Longines’ vintage-based Heritage Classic collection, the Flagship Heritage Moonphase is compact by modern standards, but larger than the actual vintage originals. The stainless steel case is 38.5 mm in diameter and 12.4 mm in thickness. Simple in style, the case has a domed, polished bezel and short, angular lugs with polished chamfers along their edges. Slightly domed to mimic a vintage watch, the dial is finished with a ...

Longines Adds New Dial Colors to the Flagship Heritage Collection Worn & Wound
Oct 7, 2024

Longines Adds New Dial Colors to the Flagship Heritage Collection

The winged hourglass is a memento mori, historically symbolizing that our time on earth is fleeting. It encourages us to make the best of the time we have. In other words, time flies, and Longines has been using their version of a winged hourglass logo for generations to remind us that time is indeed precious and should be tracked with a proper timepiece. Since the 1950s, their historic flagship model has been such a watch, and Longines is launching a new heritage version in three distinct colorways. All three are primarily made of polished stainless steel, measuring 38.5mm in diameter, 12.4mm in thickness, and 19 mm in lug width. The dials feature elegant, applied hour markers, a winged hourglass logo, and a subdial at 6 o’clock that displays a pointer date with a moon phase complication. The three sunburst dial colors are Havana beige, green, and anthracite. The latter has rose-gold-colored dial furniture, while the other two are polished steel. The watches are water-resistant to 30 meters. Since its creation in 1957, the Flagship collection has always included an 18-carat gold medallion on its case back, featuring a caravel ship with unfurled sails. The caravel was a light sailing ship commonly used by the Spanish and Portuguese during the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries for long voyages. The Portuguese developed it to explore the coast of Africa. The caravel was known for its ability to sail effectively against the wind. It’s a perfect way to celebrate the Flagship ...

Maen Goes Back to their Roots with the Lunar Classic 36 Worn & Wound
Oct 3, 2024

Maen Goes Back to their Roots with the Lunar Classic 36

When we last checked in with Maen, they had just released their latest collaboration with visual artist seconde/seconde, a take on their popular Manhattan integrated bracelet sports watch that was both playful in its aesthetic and sober in its theme. That watch, and other watches in the Manhattan collection, represent one side of the Maen coin, which is that of a brand willing to experiment and play around with expectations, whether that’s in a collaborative partner like seconde/seconde, or making a watch that’s almost impossibly thin at a surprisingly affordable price point. Maen’s latest, though, represents a different side of the brand, one that is quite a bit more traditional and borders on classical, at least in a watchmaking context. The new Lunar Classic 36 brings a classic complication, the moonphase, back into the Maen lineup after a long absence.  Maen’s very first watch, released in 2017, had a moonphase complication. That quartz watch is very different in execution than any watch in the current Maen lineup, which is kind of the point of the Lunar Classic 36. It exists, in part, as a demonstration of how far the brand has come. Anyone who has handled a Maen knows that these watches punch well above their weight class in terms of fit and finish, and recent releases really demonstrate that the progress they’ve made getting the best manufacturing results possible, while honing in on a clearer than ever design language.  Like other recent Maen releases, ...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Millesime Vs. Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase Fratello
Sep 29, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Millesime Vs. Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase

Last week’s Sunday Morning Showdown saw two very dressy watches pitted against each other. We continue the formal streak this week but in a much more wallet-friendly manner. These two dressy numbers were positively received here at Fratello, even if they don’t represent the ultimate in horology. The big question today is: if you want […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Millesime Vs. Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase to read the full article.

Frederique Constant Classic Date & Moonphase Review Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 27, 2024

Frederique Constant Classic Date & Moonphase Review

Frederique Constant takes a consistent, evolutionary approach to the design language used in its Classic collection. Sometimes those evolutionary leaps are larger than others. This is certainly the case with two additions to the collection released earlier this year: the Manufacture Classic Date, and Classic Moonphase Date, which have undergone a series of both small and large changes that represent a marked maturity for the brand. The new watches will find themselves squarely in front of a new audience as a result, and bring a welcome set of options in the often neglected formal genre at a sub-$5,000 price point. In hand and on wrist, these watches bring a surprising level of sophistication thanks to a keen attention to detail. If this isn’t a brand you’ve taken seriously in the past, it might be time for a second look.  In an era dominated by sports watches and so-called GADA watches, it’s easy to forget just how essential a dedicated clean, classical, formal watch can be. They are easy watches to overlook, as their beauty lies in the small details rather than big, eye -catching flourishes, but with a little patience, these watches can be just as compelling as anything else out there. If the brand respects the process, that is. With minimal complications, scales, and bezels to work with, the design and execution of the few details that are present are paramount to evoking the necessary emotions. There is nothing to hide behind here. The odd shape or finish of an h...

Hands-On With The Louis Moinet Speed Of Sound Chronograph Fratello
Sep 26, 2024

Hands-On With The Louis Moinet Speed Of Sound Chronograph

Today, we go hands-on with the Louis Moinet Speed of Sound chronograph. This is a stunning modern watch with a vintage heart. As we’ll see, the rare vintage movement has been modified functionally and cosmetically to offer a novel moonphase display. Credit is due to Louis Moinet for creating innovative ways of displaying traditional time-related […] Visit Hands-On With The Louis Moinet Speed Of Sound Chronograph to read the full article.

The Raymond Weil Millesime is Now 35 mm SJX Watches
Sep 26, 2024

The Raymond Weil Millesime is Now 35 mm

Essentially smaller versions of the preceding models, the Millesime Central Seconds and Millesime Moon Phase in 35 mm are the latest additions to Raymond Weil’s successful line of vintage-inspired watches. Debuting with five different variants, the new Millesime models retain the aesthetic that made the earlier versions popular: a contemporary interpretation of “sector” dial watches of the early 20th century. Initial thoughts Regarded as a “mall watch” brand for years – but nonetheless a profitable business of decent scale – Raymond Weil hadn’t been on the radar of most watch enthusiasts for some time. So when the Millesime won the award for watches under CHF3,000 at last year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), many of us were surprised. The Millesime, however, is more than a “mall watch”. It has good proportions with a “sector” dial that is well-balanced, and underneath is a no-frills, reliable Sellita movement. It is an affordable watch and has the build quality to match, but that is a fact rather than a criticism. Priced between US$1,650 and US$2,575 depending on the model, the 35 mm Millesime remains good value. It brings the “sector” dial-look to someone who wants a smaller watch. Vintage-inspired aesthetics The new Millesime takes after the original model, which was just under 40 mm. The case is nearly identical in design, a three-part affair with a flat bezel, large, fluted crown, and “glass box” sapphire crystal that ...

A Hands-On Introduction To The Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase Fratello
Sep 24, 2024

A Hands-On Introduction To The Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase

During Geneva Watch Days, Frederique Constant introduced two high-end models with impressive special dials. Only a few weeks later, the brand now unveils a series of three quartz moonphase models in the more affordable segment. This move highlights the wide variety of watches the brand offers. Usually, the mechanical side of things is more relevant […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase to read the full article.

Shining a Light on the A. Lange & Söhne Lumen Collection Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 18, 2024

Shining a Light on the A. Lange & Söhne Lumen Collection

When A. Lange & Söhne makes a contribution to watchmaking, whether in the areas of technology, design, materials, or any combination of these or other elements, it tends to go above and beyond the call - to challenge itself to reach a little higher, to put its own distinctly Saxon spin on things. This philosophy is evident particularly in the brand’s approach to complications: not just a moon-phase, but a moon-phase that’s accurate for more than a century. Not just a tourbillon, but the first tourbillon with a stop-seconds mechanism. Not just a split-seconds chronograph, but the first “triple split” chronograph to make comparative time measurements of not just seconds and minutes but multiple hours.  It was in that overachieving spirit, no doubt, that Lange developed its own signature illumination system for watch dials, rolling it out in 2010 on the second generation of the groundbreaking Zeitwerk model that it had introduced the year prior. The system, called “Lumen” and patented in 2013, illuminates not only dial elements like hands and indexes in the dark but also components normally hidden beneath the dial’s surface, like date disks and decorated plates, wheels and bridges. Lange’s technical solution to the challenge of charging all of the elements uniformly - luminous-treated surface details like hands, hour markers and subdials, as well as non-treated parts beneath the surface - was a dial made of sapphire and coated with a semi-transparent ...

Lunar Loveliness With The Louis Moinet Black Moon Limited Edition Fratello
Sep 17, 2024

Lunar Loveliness With The Louis Moinet Black Moon Limited Edition

When we think of Louis Moinet, chronographs come to mind. After all, the company’s namesake invented the complication in 1816. Today, though, we’ll look at a different level of functionality. The moonphase complication is also traditional, but the new Black Moon Limited Edition ushers a novel method of displaying the lunar cycle. Admittedly, a stodgy […] Visit Lunar Loveliness With The Louis Moinet Black Moon Limited Edition to read the full article.

Comments 1

  1. Tomek
    Moonphase is nice, but also impractical. You look at dial, not moon in sky. Still, classical Patek and Lange pieces have soul that modern watches sometimes miss.

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