Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin unveils two new versions of its Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in 36.5mm cases, the first to appear without a gem-set case. When it debuted in 2022, the Traditionnelle QP was positioned as a women’s watch, adorned with diamonds and a mother-of-pearl dial. It’s incredible to see the impact that market trends can have […]
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet unveiled the unexpected at Dubai Watch Week: an intelligent watch winder created in collaboration with Dubai Future Labs. Designed specifically for the brand’s latest perpetual calendar calibre, the device uses computer vision, a motorised arm, and Bluetooth connectivity to wind the watch, read the dial, and set all calendar indications automatically. It’s a curious blend of haute horlogerie and consumer robotics. Initial thoughts Perpetual calendars have long bedeviled collectors and after-sales service departments alike. Often tedious to reset after non-use, they can break or bind if adjusted at the wrong time. In the past couple of decades, this problem has been largely solved by watchmakers like Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, Stephen McDonnell, Andreas Strehler, Greubel Forsey, F.P. Journe, and most recently by Audemars Piguet. Given that Audemars Piguet is among the names that have developed a fool-proof perpetual calendar, the intelligent watch winder seems like a solution in search of a problem. The choice of the launch platform is also puzzling. On one hand, I understand why Audemars Piguet would develop the winder for its new cal. 7138; it makes sense to promote the new product. But on the other hand, the box would be far more useful if it worked for the brand’s earlier generations of perpetual calendars, which are more liable to break from improper use and need to be adjusted using pushers in the case. There are also many more of them in circulation, ...
SJX Watches
Blancpain has just unveiled its most complex modern-day watch, the Grande Double Sonnerie, to mark its 190th anniversary. This CHF1.7 million grand complication signals Blancpain’s return to the highest tier of haute horlogerie. One of the most technically ambitious chiming wristwatches ever made, the Grande Double Sonnerie incorporates traditional complications: grande and petite sonnerie, minute repeater, flying tourbillon, and retrograde perpetual calendar, but also offers an unexpected twist with two distinct chiming melodies, a Westminster chime plus a a bespoke sequence composed for Blancpain by Eric Singer of rock band Kiss. Initial thoughts It has been some time since Blancpain unveiled a truly headline-grabbing complication. The manufacture made its name in this arena with the 1735 of 1991, but in the decades since, its output has leaned toward more conventional high-end offerings - perpetual calendars, tourbillons, carrousels, and chiming watches - while its commercial momentum has come largely from the Fifty Fathoms and Villeret triple calendar. The unexpected Grande Double Sonnerie is therefore a reminder of what Blancpain can do at the very top level of watchmaking. The Le Brassus-based manufacture tends to be overlooked when speaking of high horology today, but the Grande Double Sonnerie should remind enthusiasts how sure-footed Blancpain is in this regard. Even before considering the many complexities of the timepiece, the watch impresses from the fir...
SJX Watches
The uniform of high complications almost invariably includes a leather strap; a metal bracelet remains an uncommon pairing with, say, a grande sonnerie. Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction, however, brings an unexpected abundance of complicated watches on bracelets for collectors who prefer metal, including notable examples from Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne. This season’s sale is anchored by two major private collections, most prominently the second part of The Chronicle Collection, the first half of which was dispersed earlier in the spring. The consignor began collecting in the 1990s, a fact reflected in the depth of neo-vintage highlights throughout the catalogue. Lot 2442 - Patek Philippe ref. 3448⁄8 with Possibly Unique Ruby Dial The Patek Philippe ref. 3448 was the first self-winding perpetual calendar produced in series. According to movement numbers, it is likely 586 were made in total - this lug-less example was one of the first made. Beyond its historical interest, the ref. 3448 is underpinned by one of – if not the – most beautiful automatic movements ever made: the cal. 27-460 Q. Looks aside, it was one of the most technically competent automatics of its era, with an overcoil hairspring, free-sprung balance, and bi-directional winding using a cam and pawl system. Atop this worthy base calibre, the ref. 3448 adds the iconic windows perpetual calendar by none other than Victorin Piguet. The ‘/8’ in ref. 3448/8 suffix denotes the style ...
Hodinkee
How Guest Editor Eddie Huang found peace with a Vacheron QP while the menu for his new restaurant forced an existential crisis.
Fratello
After introducing a series of 28 Hommage La Placide biretrograde perpetual calendars last week, Roger Dubuis launches a second version of the tribute watch, debuting at Dubai Watch Week. The Roger Dubuis Hommage “Sukoon Al-Layl” is a unique piece, featuring a 38mm platinum case and again showcasing the characteristic and historic biretrograde perpetual calendar. The […] Visit Introducing: The One-Of-A-Kind Roger Dubuis Hommage “Sukoon Al-Layl” to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Setting an easy-to-set watch just got even easier, and more futuristic.
Monochrome
Bremont’s rise has been tied to modern aviation-leaning tool watches with solid mechanics built to be used. After the more experimental Terra Nova pieces, the British brand regrouped around its core strengths with the Altitude collection: a cleaner, aviation-inspired collection that also invited complications. At the top sits the Altitude Perpetual Calendar GMT Mono-Pusher, with […]
Worn & Wound
Well, dare I say, we’ve moved past the sticker shock of the “new” Bremont. Two and a half years on from Davide Cerrato taking the helm at the British brand, the discourse around direction seems to have died down, and the new vision for the brand - founded by Nick and Giles English and now owned principally by hedge fund manager and activist investor Bill Ackman - is increasingly clear. If I’m being honest, I’m still not sure what to make of this new Bremont, but one thing that’s for sure is that seeing new releases sporting the Bremont “Wayfinder” logo is no longer the jarring experience it was in March of 2024. And it means I can say that Bremont’s latest releases, a pair of 50-piece limited editions unveiled for Dubai Watch Week, each make a tremendous amount of sense in the context of the current Bremont collection. It’s a big step for the brand, which has had to do a tremendous amount of work over the last few years to make the latest interpretation of Bremont make sense. If I’m being wholly honest, I’m still not sure that the new Bremont is really for me (I’m not sure it’s meant to be), but I do know that when I see their new releases, they are unquestionably Bremont watches. What we have today are two reinterpretations of watches initially released earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, each differentiated by notable aesthetic changes. The first of these is a new iteration of the Terra Nova Jumping Hour, introduced for the first time ...
Monochrome
Perpetual calendars are one of the most fascinating and elegant complications. Their sophisticated mechanism automatically adjusts the date throughout the year, accounting for the varying lengths of months and the leap year cycle, eliminating the need for manual correction. Yet one challenge is that if your watch stops, resetting it can be complicated, often requiring […]
Monochrome
The De Bethune DB25 line has long served as the brand’s classical counterpoint, a collection where its most traditional complications are expressed through a very distinctive design. Since the first DB25QP appeared in 2011, the perpetual calendar complication has evolved through multiple iterations. Among the recent releases were the richly coloured green model with guilloché […]
SJX Watches
Matching sets are a motif of Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, with the most spectacular being the Concord Saratoga Splendour, a set of four minute repeating, high jewellery wristwatches representing the four precious stones – diamond, sapphire, ruby and emerald – each with a distinct movement made by Christophe Claret. Also on offer is a set of three watches from Glashütte Original with Meissen porcelain dials, and a Patek Philippe Pagoda quartet. Lot 857, a matching pair of Bovets depicting Hong Kong harbour by day and by night. Image – Phillips Such sets enjoyed popularity at the top end of the market during the 1980s and 1990s, often centred around the four precious coloured stones, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires. Perhaps the ultimate example of the matched set is the most complicated Patek Philippe watch, the Calibre 89, that was originally launched as a set of four in yellow, rose, and white gold, and platinum. Unfortunately, many of these sets have since been split up. Can these three escape that fate? Lots 858 to 862 – Concord Saratoga Splendour Set Concord was one of a few brands that saw great, but ephemeral, success during the 1980s and 1990s, in the same vein as Gerald Genta, Ebel, and Corum. In 1995 Concord launched the Saratoga Exor, a minute repeating tourbillon with perpetual calendar and bimetallic thermometer, set with 15.85 carats of baguette diamonds. With a price tag of CHF2 million, it was probably the second most expensive w...
Monochrome
For many years, you’ve probably known Roger Dubuis for its bold, angular watches with openworked movements and tourbillon(s), most of them under the Excalibur collection. And while most are technically very impressive, this isn’t exactly the style that Mister Dubuis defined when he created the brand in the mid-1990s. The earliest watches, known as the […]
Fratello
It certainly seems like 2025 is the year of anniversaries. Big names are celebrating many centuries of watchmaking, and many brands, young and old, are releasing exceptional commemorative creations. Some are intricate masterpieces that express their maker’s savoir-faire, while others represent an evolution of a historical benchmark creation. The Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide is […] Visit Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide - A 28-Piece Limited-Edition Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Celebrating its 30th anniversary this year, Roger Dubuis (RD) revisits its earliest triumph with the Hommage La Placide, a 28-piece limited edition that reimagines the brand’s signature bi-retrograde perpetual calendar. Named for the late Dubuis’ childhood Boy Scouts nickname, the Placide celebrates the classical roots of the Geneva-based manufacture while honouring the design codes that first put RD on the map three decades ago. Faithful to the originals yet refined in execution, the Placide reaffirms the brand’s ability to merge mechanical ingenuity with expressive design - a reminder that beneath its modern flamboyance lies genuine horological pedigree. Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis today is best known for its over-the-top, modern design - skeletonised movements, sharp case lines, and a visual language that often borders on the theatrical. It’s a far cry from the brand’s origins three decades ago, when Dubuis himself was focused on classical watchmaking rooted in Genevan tradition. Paying tribute to those early creations, the Placide reimagines the bi-retrograde perpetual calendar that first established the horloger genevois 30 years ago. The bi-retrograde perpetual calendar was first conceived in the late 1980s, when Dubuis collaborated with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht to develop a novel perpetual calendar mechanism featuring twin retrograde indicators for Harry Winston. It was only in 1995, upon founding his own brand, that Dubuis introduced the complication ...
Monochrome
One of the founding fathers of watchmaking in Glashütte, together with F.A. Lange, Moritz Grossmann also established the German School of Watchmaking. This important name returned in 2008, when trained watchmaker Christine Hutter founded a manufacture of classically German, high-end watches. For its 17th anniversary, the brand is about to release a first: a watch […]
SJX Watches
Many superlatives have been ascribed to what might be the most valuable watch this fall auction season – the Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in stainless steel. Headlining Phillips’ upcoming auction in Geneva, the steel ref. 1518 is paradoxically extraordinary and ordinary all at once. As the first serially-produced perpetual calendar-chronograph wristwatch, the ref. 1518 is already a landmark Patek Philippe wristwatch, one that spawned a lineage that includes the refs. 2499, 3970, and 5970. And then there’s the ref. 1518 in steel – only four are known. The steel ref. 1518 has rarity, historical importance, and an eight-figure value; but on the wrist, this “holy grail” is compact, lightweight, and monochromatic, discreetly low-key. At a diminutive 35 mm in diameter, the ref. 1518 is small by today’s standards. The watch doesn’t look like much on the wrist from across a room; in fact, it isn’t immediately obvious to a layperson (or even a casual watch enthusiast) that the watch is worth more than most houses and vintage Ferraris. Yet the ref. 1518 in steel is appealing for many intellectual reasons: extreme rarity, historical lineage of the perpetual calendar chronograph, even sheer value. This is a trophy in many senses. Historically, the ref. 1518 was important even in its time. It was once Patek Philippe’s most complicated regular production wristwatch, and the steel ref. 1518 was likely the most expensive steel Patek Philippe when it was in the catalogue. ...
Teddy Baldassarre
In the wild world of watches, the words “affordable” and “complicated” are most often mutually exclusive. The more complicated a piece is, I think, the more we all brace ourselves to expect the correlation of a dramatic surge in price. It’s par for the course. But in recent years, there have been some watchmakers out there that have dared to do the unexpected, to bring high complications down to the realm of mortal purchasing power. As always, measuring affordability remains a personal conundrum, but there is no denying that there are now options for perpetual calendars, jump hours, and the like that are now paired with a more easily digestible price tag. In today’s guide, I’m tipping my hat to the various watch brands out there that have invested time and resources into leveling the playing field, crafting pieces of high horology that are more accessible than ever before. Across 10 pieces, we’re running the gamut of style and utility, but each piece is unique in its own way, and definitely worthy of your consideration if you’re looking for a complicated watch at a not-so-complicated price point. Christopher Ward Bel Canto Case: 41mm Material: Grade 5 Titanium Movement: Caliber FS01 Automatic Water Resistance: Price: Starts at $3,995 The only logical jumping off point for a guide such as this is with the watch that revolutionized haute-horology bells and whistles at an unheard-of price tag: the Bel Canto from British maker Christopher Ward. You’ve...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin (VC) marks its 270th anniversary this year in grand style with La Quête Du Temps, a monumental, multi-complication clock weighing over 150 kg. A little more wearable is the Métiers d’Art Tribute to The Quest of Time, also a 270th anniversary edition but in wristwatch format. Like many of VC’s high complicated watches, Tribute to the Quest of Time is a double-faced wristwatch. On the front is a double retrograde time display that’s either on demand or en passant, which takes the form of a human figure whose arms tell the time. Also on the front is a spherical moon phase, while the back is home to an astronomical display comprising a sky chart and sidereal day indicator. Initial thoughts Tribute to the Quest of Time is a big complicated watch, and it looks and feels the part. In terms of dimensions and feel, it reminds me a little of the Lange Repeater Perpetual Calendar that was also launched this year. Even though small watches are on trend now, complicated watches like this should be large. This succeeds in that respect, and feels good on the wrist. Despite the mechanical complexity, the time is easy to read, though it takes a moment to get used to the twin scales for the time. The symmetrical dial on the front is straightforward and legible. The dial is tinted sapphire and etched with the constellations in the night sky over Geneva on the day VC was established, September 17, 1755. This is not obvious at a distance but reveals itself up close...
SJX Watches
Autumn has always been a special time in New York, and that’s especially true now that the city plays host to the nation’s flagship watch fair. Held each October in the heart of Midtown, WatchTime New York has become one of the most high profile public watch fairs in the United States, bringing together independent watchmakers, major brands, and collectors under the imposing dome of Gotham Hall. Now in its tenth year, the 2025 edition was the largest yet, and served as the backdrop for the public unveiling of a few notable watches (and one strap). The Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2. Initial thoughts This was my third year attending WatchTime, and the experience is remarkably consistent from year-to-year. That said, this year’s event was clearly the biggest yet, with 44 brands and more than 2,700 visitors. Despite this turnout, it’s still a fraction the size of an event like Watches & Wonders, which gives it a more intimate feel that reminds me of SalonQP, which was an annual watch fair in London put on by now-defunct QP magazine. In other words, it’s big enough to attract big names and small enough to allow the general public to meet watchmakers that they might not otherwise have access to; Kari Voutilainen, Stepan Sarpaneva, Martin Frei of Urwerk, Albert Edelmann of Zeitwinkel, and Roland Murphy of RGM were present throughout the fair to engage with collectors. A big turnout Not only did WatchTime attendance set a record, the nearby Windup Watch Fair, a free event f...
SJX Watches
MB&F has generated a lot of attention this year with a number of new releases celebrating the brand’s own 20th anniversary. Today MB&F celebrates the 75th anniversary of one of its early champions and long-time retail partners, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, one of the most influential retailers in the Middle East, best known for organising Dubai Watch Week. To mark the occasion, MB&F has developed two new limited edition models of its groundbreaking perpetual calendar, the Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO, on a sporty rubber strap, and the Legacy Machine Perpetual Baguette Diamonds, which is the first LM Perpetual to feature a gem-set bezel. Both models wear the typical Legacy Machine (LM) look and feature a vibrant blue colour used once before for another Seddiqi collaboration. Each watch is extremely limited; the titanium EVO will be a limited edition of just seven pieces, while only five pieces will be made of the steel version with its baguette-set bezel. Initial thoughts It’s a big year for milestone anniversaries, which is a good thing for watch collectors who are unusually spoiled for choice. That’s especially true for clients of Seddiqi, who can choose between two appealing new variants of one of the most intellectually compelling perpetual calendars on the market. They say it’s good to have friends in high places, but evidently it’s also good to have friends in dry places. Speaking about MB&F’s long-term relationship with Seddiqi, founder Maximilian Busser noted,...
SJX Watches
This December at its New York auction. Sotheby’s will bring one a hitherto secret collection of complicated Patek Philippe watches to market, The Olmsted Complications Collection. Accrued by late financier Robert M. Olmsted over six decades, the collection includes watches commissioned by the most prominent American collectors of the early 20th century, including Henry Graves Jr., Thomas E. Emery, James M. Morehead III, and Elliot C. Lee, some of which were completely unknown to the public until now. An “Extra” quality observatory watch made for Henry Graves Jr. It couldn’t be better timed either, with the flagship lot being a previously undocumented Patek Philippe perpetual calendar desk clock, just months after the brand launched its modern equivalent. Better still – at least for American bidders – these watches are already stateside, avoiding the hefty import taxes levied against Switzerland. In addition to rare and exotic pocket watches, the auction also makes room for a few watches with more mainstream appeal, including a Rolex ref. 6100 with a cloisonné enamel dragon dial. The Thomas E. Emery Desk Clock The headline lot is a Patek Philippe desk clock made for one Thomas Emery – the same client who commissioned Patek Philippe’s first wrist-borne perpetual calendar in 1925. Until now there were only two publicly known Patek Philippe perpetual calendar desk clocks, those made for James Ward Packard and Henry Graves Jr. Like its siblings, Emery’s desk ...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe surprises with an off-season launch, the Gondolo Serata Zebra Ref. 4962/200R-010. Based on the curvaceous model launched in 2006, the Zebra features a sapphire crystal dial framed by garnets on the bezel and lugs. The dial motif replicates the cloisonné enamel dial of the Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-023 from the Rare Handcrafts collection of 2022, but here the technique and material are decidedly modern. Despite the radically different look, this is an evolution of the Retrograde Perpetual Calendar ref. 6159G that has a smoked sapphire dial. Here the dial is also clear sapphire, but engraved, varnished, and then metallised to create the striking zebra motif. Initial thoughts The Gondolo Serata has been in Patek Philippe’s catalogue for almost 20 years but it never really gained prominence. Though the case shape is elegant, the dials on the earlier versions were quite plain. The Zebra is the opposite – vivid and striking – and it instantly stands out amongst Patek Philippe’s ladies offerings. The fact that the dial motif is based on the Rare Handcrafts Ellipse is a nice touch, though watch enthusiasts may be disappointed the movement is quartz. Patek Philippe presumably understands its clients and those clients probably want the convenience of a quartz movement. The sapphire dial technique, however, is interesting enough that it is likely to make its way into other models, which will be a good thing. Savannah sapphire The Gondolo Serata is a longsta...
SJX Watches
As part of a world tour to mark Vacheron Constantin’s ongoing 270th anniversary, The Quest: 270 Years of Seeking Excellence lands in Singapore from October 25 to 26, 2025. After stops in Geneva, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Shanghai, and Abu Dhabi, the event will take place at Parkview Square and will be open to the public. The exhibition showcases the brand’s legacy through thematic chapters, featuring both historic timepieces and artifacts as well as an exploration of métiers d’art techniques like guilloché, which are a specialty of the brand. There will also be an immersive astronomical installation that invites guests to reflect on their own passage through time. A highlight of the exhibition is a special tribute to The Berkley Grand Complication, which remains the world’s most complicated mechanical watch, and the only Chinese perpetual calendar. The watch itself will not be present – the owner is an American – but a special display will provide a look inside the masterpiece. The Quest: 270 Years of Seeking Excellence takes place over the weekend of October 25-26. Admission is free but attendees are encouraged to register online in advance to reserve their preferred time slot. Parkview Square600 North Bridge Road, 3rd FloorSingapore 188778
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.