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Perpetual Calendar Watches · Page 8

Introducing – The Appetising H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Smoked Salmon Monochrome
Sep 2, 2025

Introducing – The Appetising H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Smoked Salmon

From its refined case constructions and intelligent movements to its seductive fumé dials and dashing minimalism, H. Moser & Cie. knows how to captivate the senses. Another in-house speciality is Moser’s skill in simplifying complex displays, a feat revealed with its first perpetual calendar complication in 2005. A triumph of simplicity, elegance and user-friendliness, Moser’s […]

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin In Two New Dial Variations Fratello
Aug 28, 2025

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin In Two New Dial Variations

Vacheron Constantin is celebrating its 270th anniversary in 2025 with a steady stream of new releases. Among them is a pair of fresh takes on one of the most elegant sports watches in its stable, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. This model has long been a showcase of the maison’s ability to balance sportiness and […] Visit Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin In Two New Dial Variations to read the full article.

Massena LAB and Vianney Halter Team Up for the “Old Soul” Worn & Wound
Aug 26, 2025

Massena LAB and Vianney Halter Team Up for the “Old Soul”

Before there was MB&F, before there was Richard Mille or Greubel Forsey or De Bethune, there was Vianney Halter. Alongside brands like Urwerk, Vianney Halter helped to reimagine what watches could look and feel like coming into the 21st century. Writing in 2025, it’s hard to think of a time when the weird and wonderful wasn’t a core part of watch collecting, and Vianney Halter deserves no small amount of praise for his role in bridging the gap between a more traditional interpretation of independent watchmaking and the wide-open world of watch design we now get to enjoy. Still, nearly three decades on from the release of his first watch in 1998 (the inimitable Antiqua Perpetual Calendar), Vianney Halter is still working, and his latest release, the Old Soul - designed and executed in collaboration with William Massena and Massena LAB - is a sterling reminder that the old master isn’t out of tricks just yet. Like Halter’s last collaboration, the Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Regulator, which was released around Thanksgiving last year, the Old Soul leans into Halter’s Steampunk sensibilities, but blends the unique aesthetic with Massena’s signature eye towards historic watch design. The resulting piece is something both classically beautiful and wholly contemporary. Cased in a sedate and handsome 42mm, 12mm thick steel case, the Old School by Vianney Halter and Massena LAB is powered by the Minerva calibre 17’22, a vintage pocket watch movement first introdu...

Striking New Hues for the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual SJX Watches
Aug 26, 2025

Striking New Hues for the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual

The recently launched 222 in steel may be the watch of the hour, but Vacheron Constantin continues to build out the Overseas line with a facelift for the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin ref. 4300V that gets new dials in burgundy and pink gold, both with pale blue accents. While the new pair are built on old bones, they remain competitive and appealing thanks to the extremely slim profile, great dials and well-appointed bracelets. Initial thoughts While the fad for integrated bracelet sport watches has cooled off, the genre remains remain popular and new contenders emerge every day, compelling established players to reinvent themselves. The Overseas Perpetual Calendar is definitely an established player in this segment and competitive with most of the market, at least for now. The thin movement inside has a proven track record by virtue of its age (the basic architecture debuted in 1967). Moreover, the Overseas perpetual also deserves praise for being very good looking, especially with the new burgundy dial. The blue accents work surprisingly well against the burgundy, though less so against pink gold. That said, the age of the movement is significant. It was easy to ignore the movement when the same was true of its peers. That is changing; Audemars Piguet overhauled the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with an all-new movement earlier this year, which features an entirely crown-set calendar. While I think the difficulty of setting perpetual calendars with pushers is exa...

Hands On: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar SJX Watches
Aug 1, 2025

Hands On: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar

Roger Dubuis is celebrating 30 years by looking back on its days as a trend-setting independent. The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar deftly balances the spirit of Genevan watchmaking from the brand’s early years in the 1990s with the boisterous designs of the 2000s in a manageable size, but less manageable price. While the style is reminiscent of the oversized Excalibur models that were far from ergonomic, the Biretrograde Calendar has been redesigned for wearability. The retrograde calendar mechanism on the front is an in-house construction, built on top of the brand’s own automatic movement that is unexpectedly sophisticated and classical. Initial Thoughts Roger Dubuis is a marque built on calendars, so the new Excalibur has historical resonance. The late Roger Dubuis was a Patek Philippe alumni who caught his big break working with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, who would go on to found Agenhor, on a double retrograde perpetual calendar developed for New York jeweller Harry Winston. It was during the project that Dubuis met his future business partner, Carlos Dias, an entrepreneur who would help establish the Roger Dubuis brand and transform it into a hit maker in the 2000s. The same double retrograde perpetual calendar mechanism would accompany the first Roger Dubuis model the brand’s debut in 1995. And the retrograde calendar also has a historical connection to Geneva, as a local watchmaker named Marius LeCoultre created the most prolific retrograde perpetual design of ...

Introducing: The Secular Perpetual Calendar Clock From Kubernet Fratello
Jul 30, 2025

Introducing: The Secular Perpetual Calendar Clock From Kubernet

I must admit, I don’t usually give clocks much thought, be they desk clocks, mantel clocks, or travel clocks. There’s a certain charm to them, sure, but they’ve always sat outside my horological radar. That changed somewhat when I stumbled across the Kubernet Eternal Day on social media. I liked the look. I paused, read […] Visit Introducing: The Secular Perpetual Calendar Clock From Kubernet to read the full article.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Reviewed by Tim Mosso: A Machine with Heart and Soul Quill & Pad
Jul 23, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Reviewed by Tim Mosso: A Machine with Heart and Soul

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon lives up to its name. It has a date, a chronograph, a perpetual calendar, and a tourbillon. But it has more: this watch has character. Assigning human traits to a cold machine is a – romantic – fool’s errand, but it’s also irresistible in the presence of a masterpiece. A. Lange & Söhne’s warmest watch is more than a machine with a heartbeat. It has soul.

Up Close: Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G SJX Watches
Jul 23, 2025

Up Close: Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G

Just launched earlier this year, the Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G-001 is the latest in a long line of perpetual calendars with retrograde date, dating to 1993 in the modern day and even further with vintage watches. Though essentially identical in terms of function and display, the ref. 6159G is the most modern take on the concept to date, while being entirely improved in terms of the movement and case. The key elements that distinguish the ref. 6159G are the dial and case: the translucent sapphire dial is tinted in grey and black, while the case sports a bezel and case back finished with clous de Paris guilloche. It’s an unusual combination, but appealing overall, although some elements, like the generous dose of lume, feel out of place. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s catalogue is still mostly classically oriented, with watches like the Calatrava ref. 6196P capturing the traditional Patek Philippe style. But the brand has been moving towards a more modern aesthetic. Not all the attempts in the direction have been successful, but the ref. 6159G fortunately manages to do it well. Being modern in flavour also sets the ref. 6159G apart from its predecessors like the ref. 5159. While earlier generations of the retrograde perpetual calendar were fairly evolutionary in style, the ref. 6159G is visually unique. Fundamentally, the ref. 6159G is not exceptionally novel – but it looks good. The hobnail bezel and sapphire dial is a surprising combi...

First Look – The Delightful Warmth of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Rose Gold Monochrome
Jul 22, 2025

First Look – The Delightful Warmth of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Rose Gold

 After setting ten world records with its Octo Finissimo range in eleven years, Bulgari’s dominance in the ultra-slim arena is incontestable. The seventh ultra-thin model, the Octo Finissimo Perpetual, conquered the market in 2021. A highly prized complication, the perpetual calendar is powered by an impressively slim movement with a thickness of just 2.75mm. However, […]

Insight: Breguet’s New Sympathique Clock and Natural Escapement SJX Watches
Jul 18, 2025

Insight: Breguet’s New Sympathique Clock and Natural Escapement

Breguet will very likely close its 250th anniversary this year with a bang: launching a 21st century Sympathique as a tribute to perhaps Abraham-Louis Breguet’s greatest invention, a clock that could autonomously wind, correct, and regulate a removable watch. While the brand has released no details, and there haven’t been any leaks, a series of patents gives us a peek at the new Sympathique. Notably, the patent drawings illustrate two possible companion watches: a 60 m water resistant Marine tourbillon and a Tradition. The latter is more interesting as it uses a novel form of Breguet’s échappement naturel, or natural escapement. We explain both the new Sympathique 2025 and the natural escapement using information gleaned from Breguet’s patents. Breguet Sympathique No. 1 by Francois-Paul Journe Initial Thoughts Three of the most historied names in the watch industry are celebrating anniversaries this year. Vacheron Constantin marked the occasion with Solaria, the most complicated wristwatch to date, while Audemars Piguet introduced an all-new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar (and promises more to come in the fall). In comparison, Breguet has debuted the Classique Souscription and Tourbillon Sidéral so far, both of which are objectively good watches but feel underwhelming in technical terms. A new Sympathique, on the other hand, would be the ideal centrepiece for the brand’s anniversary collection, being visually impressive, an icon of the brand, and entirely unique ...

Comments 1

  1. Anonymous
    the 1461-day cycle is wild. perpetual calendars are the reason mechanical watches still matter.

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