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Skeleton & Openworked Watches · Page 33

991 articles · Page 33 of 42
Piaget’s Luxury-Sports Watch Gets the Skeleton Treatment SJX Watches
Feb 2, 2021

Piaget’s Luxury-Sports Watch Gets the Skeleton Treatment

Long in Piaget’s catalogue – the original model was introduced in 1979 – the Polo underwent a significant redesign in 2016, transforming the charmingly 1970s original into the Polo S. Now the brand’s entry into the luxury-sports watch segment has received a major facelift with the Polo Skeleton, which boasts an open-worked movement that gives it a strikingly more distinctive aesthetic. But more than just a new face, the Polo Skeleton is also a step up in terms of wearability and sleekness: the open-worked movement results in a thinner case – one that’s a substantial 3 mm slimmer. The result is a case with proportions rivalling those of the thinnest-ever luxury-sports watch made by a certain Italian jeweller. Initial thoughts The revamp of the Polo five years ago stirred controversy, because the Polo S was a departure from the style of the vintage original, and a turn towards fashionable and predictable designs like the recently discontinued Nautilus. Still, the Polo S did combine strong quality with competitive pricing, explaining its subsequent commercial success. The original controversy means the Polo Skeleton is a better idea. Besides being more original visually, it incorporates many of the brand’s technical strengths. Ultra-thin watches are Piaget’s forte – the brand boasts the thinnest mechanical watch ever – and the 1200S  skeleton movement reflects that, being extra-thin and extra-revealing. The Polo Skeleton is a mere 6.5 mm high The Polo...
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INTRODUCING: The Piaget Polo Skeleton watch is now 30% thinner at 6.5mm thick Time+Tide
Feb 2, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Piaget Polo Skeleton watch is now 30% thinner at 6.5mm thick

The Piaget Polo was first introduced in 1979, inspired by the jet-setting lifestyle and where luxury met sport. Its release coincided with Piaget becoming a sponsor for Polo tournaments around the world. Yves Piaget personally loved to attend these events, their glamour, sport, and spontaneity inspiring the Polo watch design. The Piaget Polo watch has … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Piaget Polo Skeleton watch is now 30% thinner at 6.5mm thick appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Bulgari Aluminium collection shows lightweight watches can pack a heavy punch Time+Tide
Dec 30, 2020

The Bulgari Aluminium collection shows lightweight watches can pack a heavy punch

Editor’s note: There’s no doubt that the Bulgari watch department is having a very big year. So far they have got hearts racing with the launch of their record-breaking Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic, the new Octo Finissimo in satin-polished steel, and then their remarkable High-End Watch novelties. And if that wasn’t enough, there … ContinuedThe post The Bulgari Aluminium collection shows lightweight watches can pack a heavy punch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Richard Mille Introduces the RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Dec 19, 2020

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph

Hot on the heels of the RM 72-01 powered by the brand’s first in-house chronograph movement, Richard Mille has just introduced the RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph, continuing its historical focus on ultra high-end chronographs, which began with RM 004 of 2003. Not only is the RM 65-01 the first self-winding split-seconds chronograph from Richard Mille, it’ll also be the brand’s first serially produced watch with the complication, joining watches like the RM 11 as a mainstay of the line up. Initial thoughts Highly-complex chronographs are embedded in Richard Mille’s DNA – the company’s first chronograph was RM 004, which was a hand-wind, split-seconds powered by a Renaud & Papi movement. And in the space of a year, Richard Mille has unveiled two all-new chronographs, starting with the RM 72-01, and now the RM 65-01. RM 65-01 in Carbon NTPT The RM 65-01 is typically Richard Mille in style and materials, exuding sportiness with its techno-industrial movement finish, skeletonised dial, and multicoloured indicators. On any other watch, the colours would look like the designers are trying too hard, but in the RM 65-01, they just work. The movement, however, is notable for being a technically accomplished calibre produced by Vaucher, the respect movement specialist that’s a sister company of Parmigiani. Historically Vaucher has only supplied movements for the brand’s entry-level timepieces, while the more complicated calibres were made by Renaud ...
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Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton SJX Watches
Dec 10, 2020

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton

Since its launch in 2016, the Overseas line has been steadily filled out with a variety of models, but the most compelling is probably the perpetual calendar. First unveiled with a solid dial, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar is a large but markedly thin watch that sits strikingly flat on the wrist. With elegant proportions matched by thoughtful design – witness the micro-adjustment clasp for the bracelet – the Overseas perpetual calendar also boasts a high level of finishing for both the case and movement, which happens to be the cal. 1120 descended from the venerable Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920. This year Vacheron Constantin went one better with the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton, which is essentially the same thing but with a skilfully open-worked movement. Boasting a tremendous appeal – matched by a very high price – the new perpetual calendar is amongst the best in luxury-sports watches. Admitted it is more luxury than sports, but it is done extremely well. Initial thoughts In its original guise, the Overseas perpetual is already appealing in both style and substance. It sits wide and flat on the wrist, looking elegant in profile while being refined in its case details – all of the polished elements catch the light nicely. But it was costly – not more expensive than other comparable luxury-sports perpetual calendars – but a lot of money still. The skeleton version of the watch is everything the original was, but more so. Just as elegantly ...
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8 of the best skeleton dials of 2020, from $340 to more than a million Time+Tide
Dec 9, 2020

8 of the best skeleton dials of 2020, from $340 to more than a million

Skeleton dials are not necessarily everyone’s cup of tea, but the gearheads and engineers among us go crazy for the transparent aesthetic. They allow the wearer to see the internals of their watch throughout the day without having to flip the watch over to take a peek. When done right, it becomes a fascinating city … ContinuedThe post 8 of the best skeleton dials of 2020, from $340 to more than a million appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph Limited Edition Review WatchAdvice
Dec 7, 2020

Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph Limited Edition Review

Chronoswiss is a Lucern based Swiss watchmaking company that was founded in 1983. Created during a time where quartz timepieces were the popular choice for wristwear, Gerd-Rüdiger Lang founded Chronoswiss, as he believed in the timeless fascination of mechanical timepieces.  Chronoswiss was a brand made for visionaries, pioneers, and nonconformists. They were the first brand to miniaturize the regulator into a wristwatch, and then build a whole collection of watches around this design. Chronoswiss is also a specialist when it comes to skeletonised watches. They have been practicing this craft in watchmaking for more than 30 years, while also giving the skeletonised timepieces a modern twist. For Chronoswiss, the process of skeletonising a watch isn’t just simply removing pieces of the dial to see the movement underneath. For this Swiss brand, skeletonisation of a watch is to “highlight the key points such as open-gear trains to cutting away as much as possible to create extremely see-through timepieces”.  The Opus Chronograph is a watch born from Chronoswiss’s expertise in creating aesthetic skeleton timepieces. Introduced in 1995, the Opus Chronograph advanced the skeletonising chapter at Chronoswiss.  The latest 2020 version of the Opus Chronograph has been thoroughly updated. This exceptionally complex 300-part masterpiece has been modernised with new geometric features that fit better on the wrist while also making it more comfortable for everyday wear. The...
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INTRODUCING: The velvety black beauty of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Black Ceramic Time+Tide
Dec 3, 2020

INTRODUCING: The velvety black beauty of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Black Ceramic

If there is any single watch to lovingly blame for the craze of luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets, it’s the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet. When initially launched in 1972, it wasn’t the beloved reference it has become today – in fact, many people were confounded by its introduction, especially given its hefty price … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The velvety black beauty of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Black Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Artur Akmaev Introduces the Battle City SJX Watches
Nov 22, 2020

Artur Akmaev Introduces the Battle City

Both an engraver and self-taught watchmaker, Artur Akmaev was born in Moscow but has called Los Angeles home since 2017. He specialises in highly decorative, but also affordable, skeleton watches, each a one-off and often customised to the client’s specific requests. And he occasionally works with other watchmakers – Mr Akmaev was responsible for the movement engraving on the Infinity Series made by fellow California watchmaker Joshua Shapiro. Many of Mr Akmaev’s creations are inspired by pop culture – both Batman and The Avengers can be found on the dials of his earlier creations – and his latest wristwatch draws on 1980s video game Battle City, where the player has to destroy enemy tanks on a grid-like arena. Designed by Mr Akmaev’s sister, Dinara, an artist specialising in jewellery design, the Battle City watch is hand-engraved and enamelled, both on the dial as well as the movement. Initial thoughts The versatility of Mr Akmaev’s skill is surprising – he can transform any idea into decoration for a watch. Admittedly, not all have the same appeal. Some look a bit much for a watch dial, but others, like the new Battle City, work surprisingly well. The scale of the decoration of Battle City suits a watch dial perfectly, while its various elements like tanks and brick surface are ideal for engraving and enamelling. In fact, the three-dimensionality of the Battle City dial is surprising, given that the dial has to fit in in the 1.5 mm space between the mov...
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Hands-on with the 2020 GPHG winner for Calendar and Astronomy- Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Deployant
Nov 19, 2020

Hands-on with the 2020 GPHG winner for Calendar and Astronomy- Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Skeleton

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton was awarded the “Calendar and Astronomy” prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 2020. This watch was unveiled in the Watches & Wonders earlier this year. The watch arrived in Singapore for a photography session, and we got up close with it. This is ourRead More
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Our Predictions In The Petite Aiguille Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Comic Figures, Legibility Issues, Skeletonization, And An In-House Monopusher Quill & Pad
Nov 9, 2020

Our Predictions In The Petite Aiguille Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Comic Figures, Legibility Issues, Skeletonization, And An In-House Monopusher

The GPHG Petite Aiguille category is for watches with a retail price between 4,000 and 10,000 Swiss francs. This is a category that stands closer to the general public as it comprises watches that are far more affordable than the other categories except the Challenge category (under 4,000 Swiss francs).
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Our Predictions In The Artistic Crafts Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): 6 Watches, 5 Panelists, And 3 Picks For Winner Quill & Pad
Nov 5, 2020

Our Predictions In The Artistic Crafts Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): 6 Watches, 5 Panelists, And 3 Picks For Winner

Watches in the Artistic Crafts category demonstrate exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enameling, lacquering, engraving, guilloche (engine turning), skeletonizing, and more. Which make comparisons between the different crafts extremely difficult. But our five panelists accept the challenge and come up with three predicted winners.
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Zenith Introduces the Defy Classic Carbon SJX Watches
Nov 3, 2020

Zenith Introduces the Defy Classic Carbon

A line of sports watches that’s modern in style and mechanics, the Defy was previously available only in mostly traditional materials, namely titanium, ceramic, or gold. But the base model now gets an upgrade with the Defy Classic Carbon that has a carbon-composite case, and more interestingly, a bracelet entirely in carbon composite. Initial thoughts Carbon composites are desirable in engineering for their lightness and strength, which is why they are used in aircraft bodies and Formula 1 cars. In watchmaking the material is useful for its lightness, but even more useful for its distinctive look. It is widely used for watch case, and sometimes in movements, so it’s no longer as novel as it was. This isn’t the first carbon-composite case for Zenith; the El Primero Lightweight of 2013 claims that title, while the El Primero Defy 21 is currently in the catalogue. So the Defy Classic Carbon isn’t groundbreaking, but it does look good. The liberal use of carbon composite suits the design well, with the techno-organic random pattern of the composite going well the open-worked dial, resulting in a sporty, fresh look that’s the best amongst all of the base-model Defy watches. The version equipped with a carbon fibre bracelet looks best naturally, because of the coherent, unbroken aesthetics and also rarity – while carbon-composite case are common, an integrated bracelet in the material is rare. Weighing just 65 g with the bracelet – about half the weight of a si...
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Hublot Introduces the Meca-10 Clock SJX Watches
Oct 23, 2020

Hublot Introduces the Meca-10 Clock

Time-only but visually and mechanically interesting, the Hublot Meca-10 wristwatch has a skeleton movement inspired by Meccano, the children’s construction toy. Now it’s been blown up – by a multiple of four – to create the Meca-10 Clock. Created in collaboration with Swiss clockmaker L’Epée, best known for the clocks it has made for MB&F and Chanel, the Meca-10 Clock retains all of the key features of its wristwatch counterpart, namely the skeletonised construction and lengthy, 10-day running time. The clock and the watch that inspired it Initial thoughts Compared to the prolific, sci-fi clocks of MB&F, the Meca-10 is more traditional. But it sets itself apart technically with its purpose-built, 10-day movement. In contrast, clocks by other brands express themselves in terms of case architecture, and mostly rely on the same the L’Epée 8-day movement. The Meca-10 has a straightforward, square case that resembles the typical Hublot Big Bang. The highlight is the movement, which originated in Hublot’s own movement development department led by Matthias Buttet, the brand’s resident technical guru, and subsequently built by L’Epee. The result is a clock that is legible and mechanically interesting, just like the Meca-10 wristwatch, giving the clock a similar sort of appeal. But the Meca-10 clock is surprisingly expensive, starting at US$47,400 for the steel version. That can be justified to a degree by the unique movement, but it’s still twice the pric...
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Up Close: Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono SJX Watches
Oct 22, 2020

Up Close: Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono

Bell & Ross’ integrated-bracelet sports watch gets an upgrade this year, with the bigger, and arguably better, BR 05 Chrono. The new chronograph retains the design of the basic BR 05, but incorporates 1970s racing-chronograph style with its twin square registers. At the same time, the case design and finish work better on the larger format, but the case of the chronograph is surprisingly thin, resulting in an unusually slim profile on the wrist for what it is. Initial thoughts In the heavily-populated category of integrated-bracelet sports watches, the best value is typically found at the less obvious brands. In its class, the Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono is just excellent, and so is the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner, albeit in a higher price class. In the affordable category, the BR 05 does well. The three-hands-and-date BR 05 is solidly executed and well priced, but looks and feels a little small, despite being 40 mm (and the skeleton version of the same is cooler but pricey). The best feature of the BR 05 is the case, which is neatly finished and nicely detailed, particularly in its price segment. The new BR 05 Chrono fixes the size issue. It retains the same case and finishing, but grows it to 42 mm. The larger size is just right – the proportions that suit the look of the watch. And design-wise the chronograph also works better – and looks more distinct than its time-only counterpart. The chronograph has a 1970s-racing-watch vibe, rather than the fashionable an...
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Redefining luxury leisure with the new lightweight Bulgari Aluminium collection Time+Tide
Oct 18, 2020

Redefining luxury leisure with the new lightweight Bulgari Aluminium collection

Editor’s note: There’s no doubt that the Bulgari watch department is having a very big year. So far they have gotten hearts racing with the launch of their record-breaking Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic, the new Octo Finissimo in satin-polished steel, and then their remarkable High-End Watch novelties. And if that wasn’t enough, there … ContinuedThe post Redefining luxury leisure with the new lightweight Bulgari Aluminium collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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MB&F; Introduces the LM Perpetual EVO SJX Watches
Oct 13, 2020

MB&F; Introduces the LM Perpetual EVO

The most complicated MB&F watch when it was launched in 2015, the LM Perpetual (or LM QP) was powered by an ingenious movement combining a “split” escapement and a novel perpetual calendar mechanism developed by Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell. Now MB&F has reworked the watch to create its sportier and more robust successor, the LM Perpetual EVO. Featuring several tweaks to the case, dial, and movement that are cumulatively significant, the LM Perpetual EVO boasts increased water resistance along with an integrated rubber strap. The LM Perpetual EVO is a limited edition of 15 watches each in black, blue, and orange Initial thoughts Even though the Legacy Machine (LM) line was conceived as something inspired by the 19th century and Jules Verne, the LM Perpetual with its open-worked, intricate dial was always stylishly modern, though that was toned down by the white-lacquered sub-dials of the original model. The EVO, however, makes full use of the open-worked dial to become an uber-contemporary watch. Both the material and construction of the case are new: it’s now zirconium with a more complicated architecture, featuring recessed sides and angular lugs that integrate with the strap. And the sub-dials are black, creating a striking contrast against the base plate in black, blue, or orange. Most notably, the EVO brings to mind the Harry Winston Project Z1, which was the other major product developed by MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser when he was chief executive of ...
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Breguet Introduces the Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge SJX Watches
Sep 29, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge

Having unveiled mostly simpler watches in the year so far, like the new Tradition with retrograde date, Breguet is now launching something big, both mechanically and literally. The Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge is, admittedly, a heavily fancied up variant of an existing model, but in typical Breguet style, it is executed to a high level of fit and finish. Originally launched in 2006 as the ref. 5347 with a guilloche dial (and subsequently as the ref. 5349 set with diamonds), the Classique Double Tourbillon has been refined and elaborated upon. It now boasts a skeletonised dial with upgraded decoration, hand-engraved bridges, as well as a thinner case band, but the watch remains enormous. Initial thoughts The original Double Tourbillon was enormous – 44 mm by 17.05 mm – with a tall, bulbous bezel that made it look even thicker. Named after the located of the original Breguet workshops in Paris, the new Double Tourbillon 5345 addresses that as much as possible by narrowing the bezel case band as much as possible, and instead using an highly-domed sapphire crystal that’s almost half the total height. It’s still a very large watch, but it looks less voluminous and massive, especially with the open-worked dial. The sapphire chapter ring for the hours and minutes that encircles the movement Decoration and materials are top class. There is a lot of decoration, but it goes well together, unlike on the original model. The decor seemed incongruous o...
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Richard Mille Introduces the RM 27-04 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal SJX Watches
Sep 25, 2020

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 27-04 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal

Conceived for the 10th anniversary of the partnership between Richard Mille and Spanish tennis champion Rafael Nadal, the RM 27-04 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal is an ultra-light, ultra-exotic, and ultra-expensive mechanical wristwatch. Equipped with a hand-wind movement suspended on a dense network of steel cables within the case, the RM 27-04 has the greatest shock resistance of any Richard Mille wristwatch, or about 12,000 g. And its case is carbon composite, which combined with the skeletonised movement, means it weighs as much as a few sheets of paper. Initial thoughts While the recent RM 72-01 chronograph went in a different direction than usual for Richard Mille – it’s equipped with a new, in-house movement with an unusual, double oscillating pinion construction – the RM 27-04 is very much in keeping with the brand’s spirit. Mr Nadal’s nickname is engraved on the side of the case The RM 27-04 is a more extreme version of what Richard Mille has done before, with more cables, more skeletonisation, and more advanced composites. And it is also US$1 million, give or take. Judged by what the brand does, the RM 27-04 is a successful product in concept and execution. But more broadly speaking, Richard Mille has been all about such watches for several years now, so the RM 27-04 doesn’t feel that exciting or interesting. Strung like a racquet Weighing just 30 g including its strap – equivalent to about six sheets of A4 paper – the RM 27-04 takes the cable-suspension...
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