Deployant
Hands-on with the new Piaget Altiplano Ultimate 910P Khaki Green
Piaget releases two new in Kaki Green. The first is the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon and the second is the Altiplano Ultimate Automatic.
Tourbillon Watches · Page 13
Deployant
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Returns to the Nano Foudroyante
Launched last year as a concept watch of sorts – and the brand’s first-ever chronograph – the Nano Foudroyante now joins Greubel Forsey’s regular production catalogue, albeit in a small-run limited edition as is convention for the brand. The new Nano Foudroyante retains all of the key elements of the original Experimental Watch Technology (EWT) version – we examined that watch in-depth earlier this year – including the miniaturised lightning seconds mounted on the tourbillon cage. The design also remains the same, but gains colour in the form of a blued seconds scale and blued steel hands, while the case is now entirely in white gold. Initial thoughts The Nano Foudroyante is essentially a cosmetic variation on the original, but it looks notably different, though it feels the same; the watch is dense, heavy, and clearly high quality. The blue accents and faux-fabric rubber strap give the sort of informal, but not quite sporty, appearance that is popular today. In contrast, the original EWT version of the watch was old-school complicated watchmaking in its monochromatic grey-and-silver livery. The two versions still look pretty similar, however, and I would have hoped Greubel Forsey did more to set this apart from the EWT version. Alternatively the EWT iteration could have been made more radical or extreme, which is not a bridge too far for a “experimental” limited edition. That said, the watch is still technically impressive with its novel approach to the fo...
SJX Watches
Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is Lean and Green
The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon was the world’s thinnest tourbillon wristwatch at launch last year. Though it’s no longer the record holder, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) Tourbillon remains as interesting and gossamer as ever – and more wearable than its ultra-thin rivals. Now the AUC Tourbillon returns in khaki green and gold livery, but Piaget understands it is not easy being green and will tailor the AUC Tourbillon to taste with its customisation program. The new AUC Tourbillon makes its debut with the matching Altiplano 910P Khaki Green that’s dressed in a darker shade of the colour, while being more affordable by multiples. Initial Thoughts Until a few months ago, the AUC Tourbillon was the thinnest tourbillon ever. While Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon from Bulgari may have edged it out by 0.15 mm earlier this year, that’s probably a distinction without a difference as the two are equally ethereal in person. The AUC Tourbillon is incredibly interesting in technical terms, and the movement hides little from view. Even the balance is flying, without an upper bridge and instead supported by ball-bearings. And the watch looks and feels like a watch, and not a credit card or bangle. Yet, and this is important, it remains durable enough to actually wear on an everyday basis, historically not always the case with extraordinarily flat watches, and even marginally water resistant. To me, the AUC Tourbillon joining Piaget’s Infinitely Person...
Fratello
Piaget Introduces New Versions Of The Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon And 910P
While many brands have focused their efforts on producing smaller watches, it’s nice to see Piaget carrying the banner for thin ones with its Altiplano series. As a longtime producer of wafer-like timepieces, the company continues to push boundaries with innovation. One example includes using the case back as the mainplate to reduce thickness. Today’s […] Visit Piaget Introduces New Versions Of The Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon And 910P to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Piaget Altiplano 910P and Ultimate Concept Tourbillon in Khaki Green
As one of the main competitors in the battle for the thinnest watches, Piaget has had quite a few records on its hands, using the emblematic Altiplano watch collection as the vessel to deliver record-thin models. The Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) made some noise by becoming the thinnest mechanical watch ever in 2016, and the […]
Deployant
New: Jaquet Droz Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold – Catrina Skull
Jaquet Droz releases the Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold with a metiérs d'art dial featuring the Catrina Skull, an incarnation of the Mexican Day of the Dead.
Quill & Pad
New Release: Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph
Foudroyante, which is French for lightning bolt), chronographs have always been very rare because in measuring fractions of a second by driving a hand that rotates every second uses a lot of energy. With the Nano Foudroyante: Greubel Forsey has solved the inherent drawbacks in foudroyante chronographs by using nanotechnology to reduce power consumption by an incredible 1,800 times!
Teddy Baldassarre
What Is A Tourbillon?
For many watch collectors, acquiring one's first tourbillon watch is a Holy Grail, a rite of passage into the upper echelons of horological connoisseurship. If you're new to the watch appreciation game, however, you may be wondering what all the fuss is about. What is so special about tourbillon watches, anyway, and what makes them so desirable to so many while still being so prohibitively expensive for most? The short answer is that a tourbillon is, in this day and age, less of a necessity and more of a badge of historical high-watchmaking excellence. For a more detailed explanation, read on. The First Tourbillons and Early Innovations The inventor of the tourbillon is a name that is likely familiar to watch connoisseurs. Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823), a native of Switzerland who plied his trade as a watchmaker in Paris, was one of horology’s most significant historical figures, among whose many innovations was the first self-winding movement, the first repeater movement with a gong, one of the earliest constant-force escapements, and the device that he famously patented in 1801, the so-called tourbillon escapement. While the tourbillon is today considered by many to be a complication, like a chronograph or calendar mechanism, its original purpose was a fully practical one, to compensate for the ill effects of gravity on the movement of a pocket watch and thus improve its long-term accuracy. Remember, in Breguet’s time, watches were not worn on wrists, where ...
SJX Watches
The Moser Pioneer Returns with a Dive Bezel (and NFT Connection)
H. Moser & Cie.’s only dive watch returns as the Pioneer “Elements of Time”, the result of an unexpected, but not unprecedented, collaboration with Azuki, an anime-inspired NFT, and American retailer The 1916 Company. Unsurprisingly given the digital nature of the collaboration, the watches will only be available online via raffle from Azuki. Representing the four elements of earth, lightning, fire and water, Elements of Time features engraved fumé dials in four colourways. Each is limited to 24 watches in Pioneer Centre Seconds format, along with one unique Pioneer tourbillon per colour. All variants are titanium, matched with bracelet with the amenities you’d expect from a diver, including a micro-adjust clasp. Initial Thoughts While a new Pioneer with a rotating bezel would normally be a major release, you won’t find Elements of Time on Moser’s website. That’s because it’s a collaboration with Azuki, a non-fungible token (NFT). Azuki is Japanese for “red bean”, but Azuki is basically anime-style digital art on the blockchain. But these are real watches – they can be collected at The 1916 Company’s physical stores – and more notably, sport of the most interesting fumé dials from Moser in a while. This isn’t Moser’s first foray into the Web 3.0 world. Back in 2022, the brand launched the Endeavour Centre Seconds Genesis, a watch that was essentially a physical QR code. The timing wasn’t the best as it debuted just as the NFT bubble popped...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase
Now into the second half of its second century, Piaget unveiled the Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase, an eccentric entrant in the crowded field of luxury sport watches. The charm of the watch lies in its unusual feature set: an extravagant dial and easy wearing format, which includes interchangeable rubber and leather straps. Housed in a sleek, 44 mm titanium case, the Polo Flying Tourbillon is the most complicated watch in the Polo collection since the underrated Polo Tourbillon Relatif introduced two decades ago. Initial thoughts I have a soft spot for watches like the Polo Flying Tourbillon that don’t fit neatly into any pre-conceived category. It’s risky to make watches like this; watches that look a bit odd on the spec sheet but feel good on the wrist. On one hand, it’s overtly sporty with a titanium case, a rubber strap, and a robust 100 m water resistance rating thanks to dual gaskets in the crown. Looked at from another perspective, it’s a piece of true industrial-haute horlogerie with a flying tourbillon and a thoughtfully executed pointer-style moonphase indicator, sans date. This last detail stands out to me, because the date and moonphase complications usually go hand-in-hand. To be clear, I don’t miss the date; its absence contributes to the care-free nature of the watch. The 44 mm titanium case looks large on paper, and indeed, the diameter is accentuated by its 9.8 mm case height, which is on the thinner side as such things go. But the Polo wears w...
Deployant
Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface
Vacheron Constantin presents the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface in platinum for the brand's 270th anniversary.
SJX Watches
Hands On: FVF Genève FVF1 Tourbillon Superligero “Today”
Having re-emerged in 2021 with the debut of his new brand and the launch of the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero, Franc Vila is back with the FVF1 Tourbillon Superligero “Today”, a watch that challenges conventional notions of timekeeping with a good-humoured twist on the traditional day of the week display. Leveraging its predecessor’s ultralight 42.5 mm titanium case and integrated flying tourbillon movement, the Today questions the difference between the days of the week, with a day roller that displays the word ‘today’ in a different font for each day. While over time the wearer might learn to associate particular fonts with particular days, the otherwise functional day roller is intended to be a reminder to not take things too seriously – today is all we have. Initial thoughts I didn’t really know what to expect the first time I stepped off the elevator into Mr Vila’s brightly lit, attic workshop in Geneva’s Saint Gervais neighbourhood. The workshop itself is part of the story, housed in what was once very likely home to a cabinotier, a term that refers to a watchmaker operating from a rooftop workshop once favoured by Genevan watchmakers of old, who preferred to work where they could get plenty of natural light. Beyond the typical watchmaking equipment, and even some atypical equipment like a perlage machine with a mysterious past, the workshop is packed with contemporary art from Mr Vila’s personal collection. Talking with him about these sources o...
Monochrome
Hands-on – An In-House Tourbillon… From India! Here’s the Titan Nebula Jalsa Tourbillon
For many, watchmaking is synonymous with Switzerland. While the Swiss industry remains influential, several other countries also play significant roles in the production of timepieces. Germany, Japan and China are obvious examples. But India, too, is increasingly important, both as a manufacturing hub and a growing market. At the heart of India’s watch industry is […]
WatchAdvice
Reviewing The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo: A Bold & Beautiful Watch
After visiting the Bvlgari High Horology Manufacture in Switzerland this year, it was about time we reviewed one of their iconic pieces, so I’ve chosen the Octo Finissimo to wear for the week. What We Love The unique design The feel on the wrist A piece you won’t see at watch get-togethers very often, if at all! What We Don’t Lack of fine adjustment on the bracelet No luminescence on the dial The flatness may not suit or wrist types and shapes Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 This year is probably one of the first times that I have really delved into the world of Bvlgari. Yes, I’ve tried on their watches and seen all the new releases, but I’ve not had the chance to dive into the brand – until this year. Luckily, we had the chance to visit the High Watchmaking Manufacture in Le Sentier back in April to see just one of the manufacturing arms of Bvlgari (they have three across Switzerland where different components are made), in this instance, as the name suggests, the Bvlgari Haute Horlogerie is where the most complicated watches are made, such as their ultra thin movements, minute repeaters, tourbillons, or in Bvlgari’s instance, all of these in one in some cases. A few images from our visit back in April, from the BVL 138 Calibre found in the Octo Finissimo (first two images), a tourbillon cage in the making, and two out of Bvlgari’s three highly skilled watchmakers who work on the high-...
SJX Watches
Jaquet Droz’s Chinese Dragon is Three-Dimensional and Skeletonised
Jaquet Droz is enjoying a good run with unique, dragon-themed watches. While last month’s debut was firmly in the mould of Anglo-Saxon fantasy lore, the Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold “Dragon Mask” is inspired by the Chinese dragon. A unique piece created at the behest of a client, like most of brand’s current repertoire, the Dragon Mask has an open-worked dial engraved and painted by hand – and set with emeralds – installed on a skeletonised, self-winding tourbillon movement. Initial thoughts Personalised commissions are, by definition, personal and not for everyone. This watch is over the top in its decoration, maybe even overdone to the point of kitsch, but I like it. Dragon-themed watches don’t always get the motif right – Breguet’s dragon was a little too fat – but this one is done well in its own way. The case is a little large for what it is, but the size is useful as it results in a larger canvas for the dial decoration. And because this is a Jaquet Droz, the execution, both in terms of dial and movement, will be good quality, as is usually the case with the high-end brands owned by Swatch Group. I imagine the client who commissioned this will be pleased – except maybe for the CHF450,000 price tag, which is steep but typical for a watch like this. A dragon in all its colours Despite its strikingly different look, the Dragon Mask is actually a variation of the clean and modern Tourbillon Skelet. Both share the same movement and case, but the Drago...
SJX Watches
Interview: Kari Voutilianen on Urban Jürgensen and Artisanal Watchmaking
Urban Jürgensen made its comeback earlier this year with an impressive line-up that includes the flagship UJ-1 Tourbillon. Much of the credit for the brand’s watches and watchmaking goes to Kari Voutilainen. Mr Voutilainen has imbued Urban Jürgensen’s watches with the high standards of quality synonymous with his own brand, resulting in watches that are equally exquisitely craft and steeply priced, but arguably worth it. Though best known for his eponymous brand, Mr Voutilainen is also co-chief executive of Urban Jürgensen (and also a minority shareholder). His fellow steward of the Danish marque that is now headquartered in Bienne, Switzerland, is Alex Rosenfield. While Mr Voutilainen is in charge of watchmaking, Mr Rosenfield leads marketing and branding. From left: Kari Voutilainen, Andrew Rosenfield, and Alex Rosenfield. Image – Urban Jürgensen Given the opportunity to speak at length with Mr Voutilainen, I could not refuse. We discussed the true nature of artisanal work, ranging from movement decoration to guilloche, the details of Urban Jürgensen’s movements, and more. You can find his insightful answers below. But interestingly, my conversation with Mr Voutilainen reminded me of the first time I met him, which was at Baselworld 2006 when he launched the Masterpiece Chronograph (with a special hairspring from what turned out to be a questionable supplier). Even two decades ago, well before he was famous, Mr Voutilainen was passionate about the same thing...
Fratello
Does Anyone Still Care Or Dream About A Tourbillon Watch?
A little research reveals that over 80 watch brands at different technical levels and price segments build timepieces outfitted with a tourbillon. Considering the mechanism’s significant cost and complexity, that’s a surprisingly large number. Likewise, mechanical chronographs, for instance, come in all shapes and sizes and prices, for that matter. Now, no disrespect, my dear […] Visit Does Anyone Still Care Or Dream About A Tourbillon Watch? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Vanguart Orb Tourbillon
Vanguart is surprisingly under the radar, despite having been eight years old. The brand was founded in 2017 by a quartet that includes alumni of Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi (APRP), and last year introduced its most notable product yet, the Orb. The watch arguably goes against the grain of independent watchmaking today. Instead of being traditional, simple, and brightly finished, it is appears intricately mechanical and distinctly modern in style. A flying tourbillon wristwatch with an inventive, thoughtful technical approach, the Orb is powered by a layered, skeleton movement with a novel winding-function selector that allows for switching between manual and automatic winding. And it’s been trending recently after having been spotted on the wrist of singer Ed Sheeran during a concert in Germany. Initial thoughts I first encountered Vanguart when it launched the Black Hole Tourbillon in 2021. The brand caught my interest because it was set up by an all-star team that included two technical experts from APRP. Though the Black Hole was technically impressive, the oversized, space-ship shape felt overdone and way too much on the wrist (and also twice as expensive). The Orb, on the other hand, is (almost) just right. When I first saw the Orb, I thought it might be yet another basic tourbillon movement in fancy dress but priced exorbitantly. I was wrong. The movement is impressive in many respects. The Black Hole Tourbillon. Image – Vanguart The Orb is both minimalist and...
Worn & Wound
A Rare Bird: Credor Introduces the Goldfeather Tourbillon
Credor is a brand that even after several years of writing about watches professionally still feels truly exotic and mysterious to me. Most brands, even those at the very high end, are fairly easy to peg once you spend some time with the watches and do all the research that comes along with learning about these things. But Credor is so rare in the United States, and so niche in terms of its appeal, it’s a brand that has eluded me even as it fascinates me. It’s also feels in some ways like it’s multiple brands in one. They make the most complicated and extravagant watches under the very large Seiko umbrella, but an alert set for “Credor” on WatchRecon returns endless affordable and quite beautiful quartz dress watches, along with the odd contemporary Spring Drive powered piece. All made, of course, for the Japanese market. Last week, Credor introduced a watch that will probably not be seen in my WatchRecon alerts anytime soon, sitting at the opposite end of the spectrum from those affordable dressy pieces. The new reference is GBCF999 and is part of the Goldfeather collection, a series of very refined dress pieces that explore a variety of decorative arts in watchmaking. The Goldfeather Tourbillon, as it’s officially known, is the first time a tourbillon has been featured in the collection, and the watch also incorporates a number of other advancements in decoration and iterations to the Goldfeather case design. We have to start, of course, with the dial, wh...
SJX Watches
The Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon GBCF999 is Distinctly Japanese High Horology
Credor returns to its first-ever tourbillon with the Goldfeather Tourbillon GBCF999, a watch that emphasises traditional Japanese craftsmanship with maki-e lacquerwork and hand engraving. Tracing its lineage back to the inaugural Seiko tourbillon that was launched in 2016, the Goldfeather Tourbillon is equipped with an improved tourbillon movement featuring a clever twist. Despite its elaborate decoration, the Goldfeather possesses a far more subdued look than its 2016 predecessor, the Credor Fugaku Tourbillon, which was not only decorated in maki-e and engraving but also set with blue sapphires. Initial thoughts Credor timepieces are almost always appealing propositions, since they usually sit somewhere between more affordable Seiko watches and high-end Grand Seiko models. While Credor is often synonymous with simple but highly decorated watches – like the famous Eichi II – its catalogue boasts truly noteworthy examples of complications. The new Goldfeather Tourbillon is one of these noteworthy watches. It’s a relatively restrained watch but executed with an impressive level of quality, especially in its decoration that is uniquely Japanese. And the slim movement is uniquely Credor in style and finish. In terms of hand finishing inside and out, the makers of the Goldfeather Tourbillon cut no corners. The Goldfeather’s form is inspired by a model from the 1960s; the clean case design is clearly suggestive of those times. The overall look manages to blend classical...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon Limited Edition GBCF999 Captures The Mesmerising Dance Of A Flock Of Birds
Credor is often regarded as being a connaisseur’s brand, one of those beguiling watchmakers known and appreciated by a small group of deeply devoted watch collectors and enthusiasts. Part of the Seiko corporation, Credor represents the high-end side of the company, combining the most special traditional craftsmanship techniques with Japanese watchmaking artistry. Although it has […]
Deployant
New: Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon with urushi lacquer techniques
Credor releases a new tourbillon, which they call the Gold Feather with a tourbillon and a new urushi métier d'art on the dial and movement.
Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Reviewed by Tim Mosso: A Machine with Heart and Soul
The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon lives up to its name. It has a date, a chronograph, a perpetual calendar, and a tourbillon. But it has more: this watch has character. Assigning human traits to a cold machine is a – romantic – fool’s errand, but it’s also irresistible in the presence of a masterpiece. A. Lange & Söhne’s warmest watch is more than a machine with a heartbeat. It has soul.
SJX Watches
Jaquet Droz Surprises with a Unique Dragon Tourbillon
Continuing with its focus on unique, custom-order watches, Jaquet Droz’s latest brings together art, film and watchmaking. Commissioned by an unnamed collector (who presumably loves J.R.R. Tolkien’s tales), the Tourbillon Dragon “John Howe” stands as a fine example of Swiss watchmaker’s ability to blend artistic crafts with technical watchmaking. It reprises an earlier commission that similarly united The Lord of the Rings and Jaquet Droz watchmaking. Initial thoughts Custom-made one-offs are not uncommon in the world of high horology, with collectors regularly commissioning unique timepieces from both independent and established makers. Most of George Daniels’ creations were commissions, as were the ultra-complicated pocket watches delivered by Vacheron Constantin to a certain Mr Berkley. Unlike other brands, however, Jaquet Droz is now largely specialised in custom or bespoke commissions. It also takes a different and unique approach by collaborating with both the client and an artist of the client’s choosing in making wearable pieces of art. Here the artist John Howe, the Canadian illustrator who was responsible for visualising Tolkien’s fantasy world for the novels and later became artistic director of The Lord of the Rings film series. The timepiece reproduces an artwork created by Mr Howe as a large scale painting that was then was adapted to wristwatch format. Beyond the impressive miniature painting and pedigree of the motif, the watch stands firm...