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Tourbillon Watches · Page 14

SJX Podcast: AP Reinvents the Chronograph, Big Brands vs. Indies, and VC CEO SJX Watches
Oct 5, 2025

SJX Podcast: AP Reinvents the Chronograph, Big Brands vs. Indies, and VC CEO

On episode 12 of the SJX Podcast, SJX shares his hands-on impressions of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5, the fifth and final watch from the brand’s R&D skunkworks. We also address listener questions about the (great) leadership at Vacheron Constantin, and whether brands like A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin can gain market share from independents – why not? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

First Look - The New and (Very) Opulent Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Versailles Monochrome
Oct 2, 2025

First Look - The New and (Very) Opulent Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Versailles

Montblanc’s mastery of métiers d’art and mechanical innovation comes together once more in its most opulent creation yet, the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Château de Versailles. Since introducing the Exo Tourbillon in 2010, a patented construction that positions the balance wheel outside and above the tourbillon cage, Montblanc has revisited this remarkable regulator in […]

Full Throttle at H. Moser & Cie. with the Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly SJX Watches
Oct 1, 2025

Full Throttle at H. Moser & Cie. with the Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly

A relatively small brand in the big world of international motorsport, H. Moser & Cie. continues its collaboration with the Alpine Formula 1 team with the Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly, which takes the brand’s distinctive sport watch and adds a warm red gold colourway favoured by Mr Gasly, a French driver racing for Alpine. The Tourbillon Pierre Gasly is offered in two configurations – a 100-piece edition on a rubber strap, and an even more special edition of 10 pieces that features a full 18k red gold bracelet and a subtle baguette ruby at ten o’clock, a detail based on the racing driver’s number. Notably, both were conceived by Mr Gasly himself, who is a fan of the brown-and-red-gold aesthetic. According to Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan, Mr Gasly already owns other watches in this livery. Initial thoughts Celebrity endorsements can, at times, come across as inauthentic, but this type of marketing has been part of the fabric of the luxury watch industry for decades. In fact, it was another Formula 1 star, Jim Clark, who was one of the first official celebrity brand ambassadors for a watch brand, signing on to represent Enicar back in 1966. But while Clark promoted the standard collection of Enicar watches, Mr Gasly had the chance to put his own spin (pun intended) on Alpine team sponsor H. Moser & Cie.’s top-of-the-line sport watch, the Streamliner Tourbillon. Edouard Meylan (left) with Pierre Gasly In many ways the Tourbillon Pierre Gasly is a typ...

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph RD#5, a Thin Watch with Tall Ambitions SJX Watches
Oct 1, 2025

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph RD#5, a Thin Watch with Tall Ambitions

Audemars Piguet (AP) reinvents the chronograph with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5. Inside the titanium and palladium BMG case – standing just 8.1 mm high – is the cal. 8100, a new take on the chronograph mechanism that employs spring-loaded racks to gather and store energy. The RD#5 is the fifth and final instalment in the “RD” series of watches that underline the impressive technical know-how of AP, particularly its Le Locle manufacture that evolved from Renaud & Papi (APRP). Conceived with the goal of creating a chronograph that is extra slim and easy on the fingers, the RD#5 boasts exceptionally light and comfortable pusher feel, an instantaneously-jumping minutes counter, and an exceptionally slim profile (thanks in part to peripheral winding), all while remaining amenable to industrial-haute horlogerie manufacturing. It’s one of the most technically interesting debuts of 2025, and we explain AP’s new take on the chronograph in detail below. The cal. 8100 with its unorthodox chronograph and peripheral rotor Initial thoughts Outwardly just another Royal Oak, with the same ideal proportions and class-leading bracelet as the iconic “Jumbo”, the RD#5 is actually one of the most innovative mechanical chronographs in recent years. Perhaps the only comparison for out-of-the-box chronograph construction is AgenGraphe that was unveiled almost a decade ago. The watch was evidently developed with two goals in ...

David Candaux Thinks Differentially with the DC12 MaveriK SJX Watches
Sep 25, 2025

David Candaux Thinks Differentially with the DC12 MaveriK

After a few quiet years, David Candaux has introduced the DC12 MaveriK – the brand’s fourth model and its first without a tourbillon. A deceptively complicated time-only watch, the DC12 features twin escapements linked by a differential, a mechanism deeply rooted in the twentieth century history of the Vallée de Joux. Housed in an organic 39.5 mm titanium case, the DC12 is the most affordable watch yet from the Le Solliat-based watchmaker, but retains the brand’s signature push-button crown below the dial. Initial thoughts An experienced constructor who can count the MB&F HM6 and Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie among his credits, David Candaux launched his eponymous brand in 2017. But he would be the first to tell you it was not an easy start, managing to sell just 14 watches during his first four years in business. This is not uncommon in the world of independent watchmaking; look around at some of the most popular independent brands today and you’ll hear a similar story about their early days. Mr Candaux’s business subsequently picked up some momentum, and in the past four years the brand claims to have made an additional 42 pieces. If true, it’s an encouraging sign for a watchmaker with something of a chequered past as an independent constructor, who is said to have had difficulty meeting obligations to client brands. In some ways, the DC12 is the embodiment of this journey, being simpler and cheaper than Mr Candaux’s previous models....

Looking At The New Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon Fratello
Sep 25, 2025

Looking At The New Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon

Glashütte Original was founded in 1845, and to commemorate this milestone, the brand has unveiled a stunning new PanoLunarTourbillon. As we’ll see, the watch showcases the best of the manufacture, featuring an in-house movement and dial. With a limited production run and flagship status, this watch won’t be for everyone, but it’s a great example […] Visit Looking At The New Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon to read the full article.

Ōtsuka Lōtec Debuts the New No. 9, an Experiment in Haute Horology Worn & Wound
Sep 23, 2025

Ōtsuka Lōtec Debuts the New No. 9, an Experiment in Haute Horology

Ōtsuka Lōtec had a viral moment over the weekend with the surprise launch of the No. 9, the latest creation from the Japanese microbrand headed by designer and watchmaker Jiro Katayama. These watches have captured the attention and imagination of enthusiasts worldwide for their unique steampunk aesthetic, filtered through a unique Japanese industrial design perspective. Up until now, their watches have been defined by interesting complications (wandering hours, retrograde displays, etc.) at ultra competitive price points topping out at around $5,000, and being genuinely difficult to obtain outside of Japan thanks to extremely limited production and simply not being offered to en masse to those outside the country. With the No. 9, it certainly appears that Ōtsuka Lōtec will continue to make watches that are tough to obtain, but they’ve thrown the pricing structure out the window with this release, offering up a far more complicated watch than anything they’ve previously attempted.  The No. 9 is a rectangular watch in a stainless steel case measuring 41.3mm by 26.4mm. It’s 10.35mm tall, which makes this a quite compact package, and all the more impressive given the mechanical complexity. Going through the list of features and mechanical complications here is going to be a bit like the Stefon sketch on SNL (“This watch has everything…”) so let’s just embrace it: across 278 components, this watch features a tourbillon, a jump hour, “rewinding minutes,” a...

In-Depth: Girard-Perregaux Debuts All-New Automatic Calibre SJX Watches
Sep 23, 2025

In-Depth: Girard-Perregaux Debuts All-New Automatic Calibre

Girard-Perregaux (GP) has just taken the covers off a new in-house movement that will serve as a versatile platform for the brand, the Girard-Perregaux GP4800. Historically a significant producer of automatic movements, GP marks a milestone with the new, high-performance base movement that will gradually replace the 3000 family of movements that was once a workhorse employed by several high-end brands. Initial thoughts GP’s most famous creations are undoubtedly the historical Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges and the more recent Constant Escapement. Significant as they may be, neither illustrates the brand’s past strength as a manufacture in the early decades of contemporary watchmaking post-Quartz Crisis, in particular GP’s position as a leading supplier of automatic movements.  It all began with the 3000 family of calibres introduced in 1994. Desirable for its slimness and high performance – the 3000 series was sub-3 mm thick while ticking at 4 Hz – this versatile platform served not only as a base for many of the brand’s own timepieces, but also powered well-known watches made by a number of prominent brands, including Cartier, Daniel Roth, Vacheron Constantin, and even MB&F. A GP3000 found in the MB&F HM2 And then inverted in the MB&F HM8 Mark 2 The new GP4800 is clearly meant to replace the venerable-yet-aging 3000-series. Boasting a modern architecture and fine technical chops, the GP4800 is a step towards reclaiming GP’s past success as a movement ma...

Comments 1

  1. Anonymous
    So the rotating cage just averages out gravity's effect on the balance wheel across the full rotation? That's actually elegant. Makes sense why these cost so much.

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