Deployant
New: Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Aventurine dial
Federique Constant releases a limited edition Classic Tourbillon Manufacture with aventurine dial during the recent Geneva Watch Days.
Deployant
Federique Constant releases a limited edition Classic Tourbillon Manufacture with aventurine dial during the recent Geneva Watch Days.
SJX Watches
First launched in 2021, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph now returns in an appealing combination of materials. The new model shares many similarities with its predecessor, namely the same case design and movement. But it’s now rendered in black ceramic and 18k white gold, matched with pink gold hands. Initial thoughts With the design having been refined over time, it is now clear that the negative reaction to the initial Code 11.59 collection was overdone. Granted, some criticism was justified with the original line-up, particularly for the time-only variants with plain dials (now replaced by guilloche). The most appealing versions of the Code 11.59 are the complications, particularly those with open-worked dials, like the Flying Tourbillon Chronograph. The open working of the dial transforms what was a design weakness into strength. Not only does the open dial showcase the mechanics and finishing of the movement, but it also complements the large, contemporary case. The Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph a watch executed excellently with little to criticise – except for the case dimensions, which could be more compact. The Code 11.59 design looks larger than it is, so the case wears larger than it measures. Although the price is only available on request, it is in the region of CHF250,000. It’s a big number but comparable to similar complications from Audemars Piguet’s rivals like Vacheron Constantin. But unlike the competition,...
SJX Watches
Founded by the namesake father and son duo, Biver has just debuted its second model, the Biver Automatique. Though a simple a time-only watch with central seconds, in contrast to the preceding Carillon Tourbillon, the Automatique is equipped with an elaborately executed movement that’s arguably the most impressive recent automatic. Besides decorative touches like guilloche on the bridges, the JCB-003 also features details like a grande sonnerie-style winding click. The calibre is paired with a comparably elaborately constructed dial with solid gold appliqués that’s available in a variety of materials, including mineral stone like Pietersite. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts The Automatique is clearly meant to showcase the brand’s ability to create a highly finished and refined time-only watch that can compete with more established producers, both in terms of the movement as well as habillage (namely the dial and case). The highlight of the Automatique is the JCB-003 movement. Developed in partnership with movement specialist Dubois Depraz, the JCB-003 is quite possibly the most refined micro rotor movement on the market today. Though it is functionally simple, the movement boasts decorative and technical details along with a high level of finishing. The over-engineered caliber is meant to serve as a base for future complications, which makes sense considering the high cost involved in constructing such a movement. Amongst the calibre’s notable details is the grande so...
Worn & Wound
If you’d told me eighteen months ago that the TAG Heuer Carrera would, in very short order, find itself once again at the center of enthusiast interest, there’s a very good chance I’d have laughed you out of the room. And yet, here we sit, 17 months on from the release of the Carrera ‘Glassbox’ and there can be no doubt - thanks in part to an expanded lineup of compelling variants of the 39mm chronograph, as well as exciting interpretations like the widely discussed and sought after Seafarer LE for HODINKEE - that TAG Heuer’s signature chronograph is one of the hottest watches on the market. But the Glassbox is only one side of the Carrera story. Now, TAG Heuer is leaning into the other side with the unveiling of a new technical chronograph. Where the Carrera ‘Glassbox’ looks to the history of the Carrera, the new Carrera Extreme Sport - introduced as a collection of six watches spread across two models: the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport and the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport - present a vision of the future and a bold one at that. The two new models share a lot in common, most notably a shared aesthetic and case design. Both the Chronograph Extreme Sport and the Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport measure 44mm across, 15.1mm thick, and 49.7mm lug-to-lug. Certainly not small, but also decidedly wearable for a chronograph meant to wear large. The lug-to-lug measure, in particular, is deceptively compact and shou...
Hodinkee
EXTREME.
SJX Watches
After having expanded the line-up of its bestselling, vintage-inspired Carrera “Glassbox”, TAG Heuer now turns to something modern, the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport. Though it shares the Carrera moniker and TH20 movement, the new Extreme Sport chronograph is nothing like is retro counterpart. Available in titanium or 18k rose gold, the Carrera Extreme Sport is a big, bold chronograph with a skeletonised dial and integrated rubber strap. And at the top of the new collection is the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport, which is the most modern take on TAG Heuer’s affordable double complication of chronograph plus flying tourbillon. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer’s offerings are now mostly either vintage-inspired and hyper-modern. The Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport definitely falls into the latter category. The open-worked dial is surprisingly intricate, with the X-shaped latticework finished with a combination of colour-treated frosted recesses and straight graining. With a skeletonised dial and chunky case, the Chronograph Extreme Sport feels similar to other watches in this segment, though the case is distinctive as the Carrera design. For anyone who feels TAG Heuer’s vintage-inspired watches are too traditional, this has the same in-house movement but presented in contemporary package. Like most watches of this style, the Chronograph Extreme Sport has an integrated rubber strap for a seamless clean profile, but never really fits as well as a convent...
Quill & Pad
From a technical perspective the Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé is a true powerhouse. Of course, how couldn't it be when you combine a triple-axis tourbillon with a minute repeater, but the Arceau Duc Attelé is more than that. It is not only these technical features, nor even how they are positioned, but also how well they are executed.
Monochrome
Introduced in 2020, a year after the debut of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection, the Flying Tourbillon Chronograph’s combination of two complications with an openworked dial was designed to showcase the brand’s high-end watchmaking skills. The latest iteration of this model comes in a two-tone white gold and black ceramic case and an […]
Deployant
Daniel Roth continues to march on under the Louis Vuitton flag with a new limited edition release of the Tourbillon in Rose Gold.
Monochrome
It’s fair to say that Bulgari’s ultra-thin Octo Finissimo watches have stolen the limelight for the past decade. However, Bulgari’s laurels have rested for decades on its fabulous and creative high-jewellery watches, spearheaded by the brand’s mascot, the Serpenti. Decked with fabulous gemstones, flexible Tubogas straps or whirling with tourbillons, Bulgari’s Serpenti has countless guises. […]
Monochrome
Forget conservative, low-key luxury with Jacob & Co. The brand’s timepieces are extravagant and spectacular creations that push the boundaries. While the design of his statement pieces may divide opinions, there’s no denying that Jacob brings a unique and captivating essence to the industry. Introduced in 2019, the Oil Pump watch blends precision with entertainment, […]
Monochrome
While Girard-Perregaux is currently associated with the sporty Laureato collection, the brand’s first brush with international fame was thanks to a historic watch known as La Esmeralda. Distinguished by its three gold bridges and tourbillon, Constant Girard’s La Esmeralda pocket watch won a gold medal at the 1889 Paris Universal Exhibition. Since then, the three […]
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne’s is marking the 25th anniversary of its iconic chronograph with a series of limited editions, including the fresh-off-the-press Datograph Handwerkskunst. And now the brand has just announced a one-of-a-kind model that will be sold to benefit charity, the Datograph Up/Down “Hampton Court Edition”. In white gold with a dial in grey and black – plus a matching white gold bracelet – the one-off Datograph continues the tradition of periodic unique pieces to benefit The Prince’s Trust, a United Kingdom charity that aids at-risk youth. The last Hampton Court Edition was an 1815 Chronograph in white gold with a black dial. Initial thoughts In some ways this is similar to the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” in being a compilation of Lange’s greatest hits. An iconic model with a unique and appealing dial, along with a weighty solid gold bracelet, make this watch easily appealing. The grey, black, and red dial make this the sportiest Datograph ever, a look that is further accentuated with the gold bracelet. The aesthetic also suits the classic car theme of the watch. Like to sell for high-six, or even low-seven, figures, the Hampton Court Edition will easily become one of the most expensive Lange wristwatches ever sold. Concluding the anniversary The Hampton Court Edition is the final Datograph launched for the model’s 25th anniversary and is in some senses a variant of the Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary, which shares the sa...
Fratello
I was surprised and intrigued when word got out last year that Daniel Roth would make a comeback. As a fan of Roth’s watches, I was eager to find out whether the LVMH designers would honor his famous double-ellipse case design in style. When the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription came out in March of 2023, […] Visit Introducing: The Stunning Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold to read the full article.
Fratello
Both Frederique Constant and Alpina grace us with multiple releases during Geneva Watch Days 2024. Alpina adds a skeletonized version of its Alpiner Extreme to the lineup and surprises us with classic silhouettes joining the Heritage collection. Frederique Constant focuses on the Classics line with a tourbillon and a moonphase model, both with spectacular dials. […] Visit Frederique Constant And Alpina Introduce A Variety Of Models During Geneva Watch Days to read the full article.
Monochrome
Inspired by a famous pocket watch made in 1889, Girard-Perregaux regularly plays around with its signature-shaped bridges. One of the manufacture’ most fascinating pieces that take notes from this early GP creation, is the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges. From every angle, it’s a highly fascinating piece to behold. The curved crystals, the swooping black […]
SJX Watches
For the milestone anniversary of its famed chronograph, A. Lange & Söhne hasn’t held back on commemorative editions. Starting with the Datograph Up/Down in blue and then the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”, the German brand now concludes the anniversary with the third and final celebratory edition, the Datograph Handwerkskunst. A finely executed watch that will instinctively appeal to Lange fans, the yellow gold Datograph Handwerkskunst is unsurprising given the occasion. And like past Handwerkskunst editions – this is the eighth watch in the Handwerkskunst series – it is relatively inaccessible: the watch is limited to just 25 pieces and substantially pricier than the regular production Datograph. The L951.8 in the Datograph Handwerkskunst Initial thoughts The original Datograph set the benchmark for a high-end, classical chronograph movement when it was launched in 1999. Exceptional both aesthetically and technically, then and now, the Datograph remains equally impressive 25 years later. The Datograph Handwerkskunst has all the familiar traits that defined the model for the past 25 years. On top of that, it has an artisanally decorated dial finished with tremblage. And more significantly, the movement gets a substantial extra dose of black polishing on all the chronograph levers, enhancing an already impressive chronograph calibre. Notably, the Datograph Handwerkskunst returns to the Datograph design of 1999. The tremblage dial has the neo-c...
Hodinkee
The revived brand follows last year’s Souscription Tourbillon with an updated edition in rose gold.
Monochrome
Seen by many collectors and watch insiders as one of the most important names of the indie watchmaking scene, Daniel Roth was instrumental in the rebirth of the Breguet brand and as an initiator of the comeback of high-end mechanical watchmaking after the quartz crisis – check this in-depth article for all the details. Recently […]
Time+Tide
The revived Daniel Roth introduces its second piece, the Tourbillon Rose Gold, adding new elements aimed at the collector community.The post The Daniel Roth Tourbillon returns in resplendent rose gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
SJX Watches
Following the revival of Daniel Roth with the launch of the limited edition Tourbillon Souscription last year, the brand is now building its catalogue with the Tourbillon Rose Gold, which will be a regular production model. The Tourbillon Rose Gold is a variation of the original with tweaks to the decoration and material, but most significantly, the new tourbillon is fitted with a display back that shows off the DR001 movement. Initial thoughts It was expected that Daniel Roth would follow up with a regular production tourbillon, so the Tourbillon Rose Gold is not surprising. Like the Souscription, it has an obviously high quality of make in construction, finishing, and details. Both the dial and case are 5N rose gold so it is strikingly pink, giving it a stronger presence than the Souscription, which in comparison is low key. It was a shame that the DR001 movement was hidden in the Tourbillon Souscription because the calibre is worth admiring. The movement is high quality in both design and finishing, boasting many details that enthusiasts now regard as key elements of haute horlogerie. The quality of finishing is impressive. In fact, the movement decoration is as good as some small-scale independent brands, reflecting the attention to detail that has characterised the resurrected Daniel Roth brand. Admittedly, such fine finishing isn’t as rare as it once was, since it is now sought after by enthusiasts and specialist subcontractors have sprung up to cater to that deman...
Monochrome
The grande sonnerie is one of the most intricate mechanisms in watchmaking. Its creation requires the utmost technical expertise as hundreds of components are required to interact simultaneously and strike time indications perfectly. Bulgari has a rich tradition of crafting striking watches, having already produced grande and petite sonnerie watches. This expertise first originated from the […]
Worn & Wound
Two prominent industry insiders have recently collaborated to establish a new watch company, Gagà Laboratorio, based in Switzerland. Mo Coppoletta will serve as the Art Director, and Ruben Tomella as the owner of the Italy based Gagà Milano brand and the newly formed company, Gagà Laboratorio. Mr. Tomella has had a successful tenure with Gagà Milano for two decades. He founded brand offshoot Manufacture Gagà in Switzerland, which has focused on creating high-end products for Gagà Milano in collaboration with leading industry partners, including the development of tourbillon movements in partnership with Hysek, a Swiss independent brand. In 2020, Mr. Tomella decided to redirect the activities of the Swiss company and embarked on establishing a new brand, Gagà Laboratorio. The mission of Gagà Laboratorio is to create entry-level luxury timepieces that emphasize design while maintaining high-quality movement standards. To achieve this vision, he partnered with artist Mo Coppoletta, a long-time friend. Together, they have initiated this new chapter for Gagà. Mo Coppoletta is a world-renowned artist, designer, and tattoo artist, known for his collaborations with Bvlgari on two Octo Finissimo limited editions featuring his tattoo artwork. In my interview with Mr. Tomella, he discusses the vision of Gagà Laboratorio. “After 16 years in the watchmaking industry at the helm of Gagà Milano, in 2020, I felt a strong pull towards the world of independent watchmaking and d...
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