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Tourbillon Watches · Page 32

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ SJX Watches
Jul 23, 2024

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’

Vacheron Constantin’s flagship launch for the year is the Les Cabinotiers “The Berkley” Grand Complication, but it a 1 kg pocket watch with 63 complications and an eight-figure price tag commissioned by a billionaire insurance entrepreneur. For more ordinary well-off persons, the brand’s halo product is the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine. Based on a model launched in pink gold in 2020, the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine is a large but elegant watch executed to a high level, with both fine movement decoration and the usual all-platinum CEP treatment. A periodic offering from Vacheron Constantin (VC) since 2006, the Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) is a series of limited editions that are variations of regular production models enhanced with the liberal use of platinum throughout the watch. Typically that means a platinum case and clasp, which are ordinary, but also an unusual sandblasted platinum dial and also a strap stitched with platinum-and-silk thread. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the CEP series because it’s a subtle twist on the standard version, with the differences only really apparent to those in the know. At the same time, because the CEP treatment is simple, it often works better on some models than others. With the CEP line now almost 20 years old, there are about a dozen CEP editions to demonstrate that point. The platinum treatment arguably works best with more complicated watches like the Tradit...

Hands-On With A Hyper Watch: The Complicated And Minimalistic Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium Fratello
Jul 22, 2024

Hands-On With A Hyper Watch: The Complicated And Minimalistic Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium

Please, come closer. It’s worth it. When you do, you can find that the movement inside the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium comprises 194 parts and features no fewer than 16 types of manual finishing. This results in a sophisticated and impressive watch that is both complicated and minimalistic; indeed, it is a paradox in […] Visit Hands-On With A Hyper Watch: The Complicated And Minimalistic Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium to read the full article.

A Monday Morning With The Grooviest Watch In The World: The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon “Daybreak” Fratello
Jul 8, 2024

A Monday Morning With The Grooviest Watch In The World: The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon “Daybreak”

Grand Seiko’s first all-mechanical complicated watch debuted in 2022. It was a timepiece with a movement featuring a tourbillon with an inner carriage rotating at eight beats per second and a constant-force mechanism rotating at one beat per second. Not only was the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 a complicated and ingenious watch, but […] Visit A Monday Morning With The Grooviest Watch In The World: The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon “Daybreak” to read the full article.

Introducing: Two New Sartory Billard SB07 Models With Striking Maki-e Dials Fratello
Jul 3, 2024

Introducing: Two New Sartory Billard SB07 Models With Striking Maki-e Dials

At the end of last year, we had three Sartory Billard flying tourbillons in the office. I remember how impressed I was with those watches. Seeing them in person was also a good showcase of the bespoke work that Sartory Billard has become known for. The brand’s latest release is another interesting display of traditional […] Visit Introducing: Two New Sartory Billard SB07 Models With Striking Maki-e Dials to read the full article.

Hands On: Lange Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary SJX Watches
Jul 2, 2024

Hands On: Lange Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary

A. Lange & Söhne marks the 25th year of its landmark chronograph this year, with two commemorative editions so far – a tremendously expensive all-in-one edition and the relatively more accessible Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary. The first Datograph with a white gold case and also the first regular production model with a blue dial, the anniversary edition the result of a relatively modest cosmetic makeover – but unexpectedly compelling. Initial thoughts The Datograph in an imperfect watch – amongst other things it’s top heavy with a somewhat dated dial design – but it has an intrinsic appeal because its movement is outstanding. Even though it’s already 25 years old, the movement remains exceptional in terms of aesthetics. The fact that it’s 25 years old also makes the Datograph important, because Lange created such a movement long before such things became a thing. So the 25th anniversary of the Datograph is an occasion worth marking. Lange debuted two watches for the anniversary (with perhaps a third one to come): the complicated and expensive Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen, and the more accessible Datograph 25th Anniversary. On its face the Datograph Up/Down seems a bit mundane for an anniversary watch. Both the blue dial and white gold case are unique for the Datograph, but together the watch doesn’t look or feel that different. But like the Datograph as a model, the anniversary edition is imperfect yet appealing. Though it is plain...

Hands-on - The Bold and Ultra-Modern Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon Monochrome
Jul 1, 2024

Hands-on - The Bold and Ultra-Modern Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon

Mr Roger Dubuis founded his eponymous brand in 1995, swiftly achieving success with timepieces that deftly balance traditional watchmaking craftsmanship and bold, expressive designs. Since 2003, the brand has been renowned for its expertise in tourbillon watches, starting with the calibre RD03. This fully integrated manufacture has since become a specialist in architectural skeletonised tourbillons, […]

Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Fratello
Jun 29, 2024

Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon

The H. Moser Streamliner just had its Haute Horlogerie chops dialed up to eleven. The result is a thoroughly modern and characterful watch that cannot be confused with anything other than a Moser. What we get is the familiar Streamliner case with its organically integrated bracelet and sterile dial. Don’t fret, though, because “sterile” does […] Visit Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon to read the full article.

The Petrolhead Corner - Bugatti Comes Full Circle with the Tourbillon Hypercar with Genuine Watchmaking Inside! Monochrome
Jun 29, 2024

The Petrolhead Corner - Bugatti Comes Full Circle with the Tourbillon Hypercar with Genuine Watchmaking Inside!

It’s hard to imagine that the record-setting and boundaries-pushing Bugatti Veyron has already been with us for close to two decades. After years of testing, teasing and fine-tuning this mindblowing hypercar, the EB 16.4 Veyron was officially unveiled in 2005, carrying a bonkers 8.0 litre quad-turbocharged W16 powerhouse of an engine in the back, producing […]

H. Moser & Cie. Unveils Its Most Complicated Streamliner to Date SJX Watches
Jun 28, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Unveils Its Most Complicated Streamliner to Date

The most complicated H. Moser & Cie. sports watch to date, the Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Blue Enamel is derived from the unique Streamliner Pandamonium created in collaboration with MB&F. The new Streamliner retains both the minute repeater and tourbillon, but without the panda figure and the oversized balance wheel. In typical Moser “concept” style, the blue grand feu enamel dial is free of any markings and finished with a fumè gradient effect that darkens towards the periphery. Also found in the Endeavour, the movement was developed in collaboration with specialist Manufacture Hautes Complications (MHC). Initial thoughts Since Moser released the Streamliner four years ago, the sports watch has become the brand’s bestseller – unsurprisingly given the popularity of the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch category in general. The new repeater-tourbillon fills in a gap in the Streamliner range, which is to say a top-of-the-line, flagship complication. Both minute repeater and flying tourbillon are visible on the dial If you like the Streamliner design, as I do, the new repeater-tourbillon is a handsome watch. The addition of the visible mechanisms on the dial add greater detail and depth to the visuals, while the fired enamel dial is a nice tough, though a fragile enamel dial is somewhat paradoxical in a sports watch. The repeater-tourbillon is similar in dimensions to the Streamliner chronograph, a good size for a sports watch of this design. The ...

A New Collaboration Between Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein is Meant to Make You Smile Everyday Worn & Wound
Jun 27, 2024

A New Collaboration Between Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein is Meant to Make You Smile Everyday

The last time we brought you news of a Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein collaboration, it was one of their most ambitious efforts to date, a Swiss tourbillon coming in under CHF 16,000, which brings a different angle to Louis Erard’s stated goal of making luxury watchmaking accessible. When that watch was released, Louis Erard promised additional collaborations to follow, and today we see the next step in their partnership. The Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Smile-Day adds a new colorway to a fan favorite format, and shows that there’s still gas left in the collaboration tank.  The Smile-Day is a stand-alone version of the “La Semaine” concept that we’ve seen Louis Erard and Silberstein experiment with a few times now. This watch essentially takes a day-date complication and replaces the “day” with a series of smiling emojis. It doesn’t actually help you keep track of the calendar, but it’s a fun and whimsical idea, and has always felt like a great match to Silberstein’s playful use of color and shape. The wearer is invited to adjust the “day” to the emoji that most fits their mood, or perhaps the emoji that most fits the mood they want to be in.  Previous versions of this watch have appeared with black and drab green dials, but this has a very different personality with a light gray dial. It’s complemented by light blue hour markers and a matching oversized minute hand, with a red hour hand and bright yellow seconds hand. As with earlier exampl...

Comments 1

  1. Anonymous
    So the rotating cage just averages out gravity's effect on the balance wheel across the full rotation? That's actually elegant. Makes sense why these cost so much.

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