A packed week in watchmaking, with a steampunk-inspired collab leading the charge, a major brand finally opening a certified pre-owned platform, and a couple of dressy pieces that leaned hard into precious materials. Here are the five stories worth your time.
1. Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur
This is the third collaboration between Louis Erard and independent watchmaker Vianney Halter, and it's the most ambitious one yet. Named after Halter's steampunk-themed collection, the Futur Antérieur takes clear inspiration from his iconic Antiqua perpetual calendar, translating that porthole-and-rivet visual language into a regulator-style watch powered by two separate automatic movements. SJX had a hands-on and called it arguably more sophisticated than the two preceding collabs; Monochrome received a sneak preview from Louis Erard CEO Manuel Emch at Geneva Watch Days, and Hodinkee and Worn & Wound both covered it at launch.
What makes this worth the top spot is what Louis Erard keeps pulling off: it takes the visual DNA of watches that cost a small fortune and makes something genuinely compelling at a fraction of the price. The Antiqua is a genuinely important piece of independent watchmaking history, conceived with graphic designer Jeff Barnes and shown publicly in 1998. Getting even a stylistic echo of that in an accessible, automatic package is a neat trick. If you've ever looked at a Halter and sighed at the price, this one deserves a close look.
2. Audemars Piguet The Watch Keepers CPO platform
Audemars Piguet has launched The Watch Keepers, its certified pre-owned digital marketplace. The platform covers AP watches at least two years old. Sellers ship approved watches directly to AP, which inspects them and handles the transaction. Consignors can choose between a fixed price or auction format. AP positions itself as the facilitator, not the buyer or seller. The rollout starts in Switzerland and Europe. Monochrome, Hodinkee, and SJX all reported on it this week.
This matters because the CPO space is becoming serious business. Monochrome noted that Rolex's CPO programme generated USD 590 million in 2025, with 2026 tracking even higher as of September. AP entering now, with a platform it controls end-to-end, is a logical move. Whether buyers will pay close to retail for pre-owned pieces through an official channel remains to be seen, but the brand authentication and service guarantee will appeal to buyers who want certainty over a bargain.
3. Habring² x SJX Chrono Felix Perpetual "Star"
SJX and Austrian independent Habring² have produced their third and final collaboration together, and it's their most complicated. The Chrono Felix Perpetual "Star" is a monopusher chronograph with a Dubois-Depraz perpetual calendar module, a piano-black dial with eight applied gold star-shaped hour markers, and a gilded moon phase display. The case is 38.5 mm in stainless steel and the run is limited to 30 pieces. Monochrome and Hodinkee both covered the introduction; SJX naturally had the full story first.
It's a satisfying sign-off for a collaboration series that has consistently punched above its weight. The "Star" ties back to their very first collab, the Erwin "Star", while layering on the monopusher format from the second release, the Chrono-Felix Medicus. Thirty pieces is genuinely limited, and Hodinkee noted the watch still represents strong value for the complexity on offer. Habring² remains one of the most underrated names in independent watchmaking, and SJX has done a good job putting them in front of a wider audience.
4. A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Calendar in platinum with bracelet
A. Lange & Söhne is marking 20 years of the Datograph Perpetual with a special version: a platinum case, a diamond-set black dial, a platinum bracelet, and a limit of 50 pieces. Time+Tide had it first with the headline details; Hodinkee followed with a hands-on.
The platinum bracelet is the detail that stands out here. The diamond-set dial adds a formal dressing that some will love and others will find unnecessary, but the mechanical substance of the Datograph Perpetual is not in question. At 50 pieces, this one goes fast to a narrow audience, but it's a meaningful milestone marker for one of the brand's most important complications.
5. Glashütte Original Senator Aventurine
Glashütte Original has added two new Senator models to its Atelier range, both built around aventurine glass dials. One is an Art Déco Blue in platinum, the other an Art Nouveau Green in red gold. Both are time-only and run on the brand's automatic Calibre 36. Monochrome, Time+Tide, and Deployant all covered the launch.
Aventurine is having a moment across the industry, and GO's execution here looks clean and unfussy. Pairing sparkling blue or green dials with classic Senator proportions and a pure time-only display is a smart restraint call. It's a different kind of dressy, and a worthwhile addition to the Senator line.
Plenty to think about this week, from indie collaborations to CPO platforms to anniversary specials. See you next Sunday.
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