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WristBuzzBrandsHautlence

Hautlence

Avant-garde Swiss independent founded in 2004 in Neuchâtel (the name is an anagram of the city). Known for jumping-hour wristwatches with rotating-chain hour displays, the angular Vortex tonneau case, and unusual time-indication architectures. Acquired by MELB Holding (H. Moser's owner) in 2012 and operates as a sister brand focused on complicated timepieces.

Founded2004
HeadquartersNeuchâtel, Switzerland
FounderGuillaume Tetu, Renaud de Retz
ParentMELB Holding (since 2012)
WristBuzz Articles52
Hautlence

Photo: Monochrome · Apr 17, 2026

2004Founded
NeuchatelAnagram
2012MELB Holding
VortexTonneau Case
52WristBuzz Articles

The Hautlence Story

Hautlence was founded in 2004 in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, by Guillaume Tetu and Renaud de Retz. The brand name is an anagram of Neuchâtel, the Swiss city where the firm is based. The founding proposition was unusual: an avant-garde haute-horlogerie brand producing jumping-hour wristwatches with non-traditional display architectures, positioned alongside Urwerk and MB&F in the "alternative complications" segment.

The house's defining technical signature is the rotating-chain jumping-hour display. Where a conventional jumping-hour disc rotates continuously under an aperture, the Hautlence mechanism uses a small belt or chain of twelve numeric discs that cycles the hour digit past a dial window, with each digit discrete rather than painted on a rotating disc. This creates the appearance of the hours physically marching past the aperture rather than smoothly rotating. The HL series (2005-2014) and the HLX series (2015-2020) deployed this architecture across multiple case shapes.

The second signature is the Vortex tonneau case, an angular, asymmetric tonneau introduced in 2017. The Vortex places the time display off-centre at 9 o'clock with an elaborate mechanical architecture exposed on the rest of the dial. The design references both 1970s-era architectural tonneau cases (Piaget Polo, Franck Muller) and more recent avant-garde independent case work.

In 2012, Hautlence was acquired by MELB Holding, the Swiss investment group that also owns H. Moser & Cie. MELB positions Hautlence as a sister brand to H. Moser: where Moser occupies restrained dress-watch haute horlogerie, Hautlence covers avant-garde technical complications. Both brands share some technical resources at MELB's Neuhausen am Rheinfall manufacture. Retail for Hautlence runs from approximately CHF 25,000 (Atelier HL series) to CHF 120,000+ (Vortex Tourbillon) and CHF 250,000+ for unique and grand-complication pieces.

Iconic Collections

2005-2014
HL Series
The launch family. Rotating-chain jumping-hour display, rectangular or tonneau cases. HL2.0 through HL2.3 as numbered variants.
Since 2017
Vortex
Angular tonneau case with off-centre time display at 9 o'clock. Multiple complication variants: Gravity (tourbillon), Primary (basic jumping-hour), Sport.
Since 2019
Vortex Gravity
Central flying tourbillon inside the Vortex case architecture. The most technical modern Hautlence.
2015-2020
HLX Series
Evolution of the rotating-chain display into more contemporary case shapes. Replaced by Vortex focus from 2020 onward.
Since 2022
Atelier HL
Return to traditional tonneau cases with hand-finished details; positioned as the dress-tier Hautlence at lower price point.
Ongoing
Unique and Commissioned
Single-piece bespoke references for clients with specific complication requests. MELB supports custom-commission projects.

Heritage Timeline

2004
Guillaume Tetu and Renaud de Retz found Hautlence in Neuchâtel
2005
First HL reference launches with the rotating-chain jumping-hour display
2012
Acquired by MELB Holding; becomes sister brand to H. Moser & Cie
2015
HLX series evolves the rotating-chain architecture
2017
Vortex tonneau case launches; becomes the modern Hautlence signature
2019
Vortex Gravity adds central flying tourbillon to the Vortex architecture
2022
Atelier HL returns to more traditional cases at a lower price tier

Latest Hautlence News

Monochrome
Introducing – Back to the Future with the Hautlence Retrovision 64
Apr 17, 2026
Deployant
Live from WWG26: new releases Hautlence
Apr 17, 2026
Monochrome
Introducing – The Sculptural Appeal of the New Hautlence Kubera Series 1
Apr 13, 2026
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Hautlence Sphere Series 4
Apr 6, 2026
Monochrome
First Look – The New Generation Maghnam Mohareb, a Transformative Timepiece
Mar 27, 2026
Monochrome
Introducing – The New, More Compact, Still Fascinating Hautlence Sphere Series 3
Oct 27, 2025
Monochrome
Introducing – New 3D-Printed Dials for the Hautlence Vagabonde Tourbillon Series 4 & 5
Sep 6, 2025
Revolution
First Look: Hautlence at Geneva Watch Days 2025
Sep 5, 2025
Deployant
New and Reviewed: Hautlence Helix Series 1
Jun 15, 2025
Monochrome
Introducing – The Hautlence Helix; Central Cylindrical Tourbillon and Double Retrograde Display
Jun 10, 2025
Time+Tide
The Hautlence Retrovision ’85 can transform from wrist to desk clock
Apr 18, 2025
Deployant
Live from WWG25: new release from Hautlence
Apr 3, 2025
View all 52 articles

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