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A dazzling dial made of recycled plastic.
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SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar
After the Streamliner made its debut in chronograph form last year, H. Moser & Cie. has just grown the line of luxury-sports watches to include the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar. As is typical of Moser’s house style, the new perpetual calendar is streamlined in design and presentation, with the dial indicating the date and month while remaining minimalist, avoiding sub-dials entirely. The inaugural version of the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar gets a black fumè dial, giving the watch a subtle palette that’s fitting for its minimalist aesthetic. Notably, the monochromatic, shades-of-grey livery also harks back to the limited edition chronograph that was the opening model of the collection. Initial thoughts Compared to the two earlier Streamliner models – chronograph and time-only respectively – the latest is the most representative of Moser because of the ingenious movement within. A movement that made Moser’s reputation when it was resurrected in 2005, the calibre is one of the few that truly reimagines the perpetual calendar. While the Streamliner chronograph has an equally ingenious movement, the perpetual calendar movement is Moser’s own, which makes it that much more special. While appearing similar to the other versions of the Streamliner, the Perpetual Calendar differs in a few respects, which makes it stand out against its siblings in the Streamliner range, and more appealing for that reason. The design is slightly more nuanced, possessing details l...
Time+Tide
Kurono takes affirmative action to boost their female audience with their Kurono SEIJI release
EDITOR’S NOTE: Since Zach wrote this story earlier in the week, Kurono had a slight change of heart. Originally this watch was only going to be made available to women in a bid to expand their female audience. However, based on community feedback, the brand has now tweaked this policy and will now prioritise women … ContinuedThe post Kurono takes affirmative action to boost their female audience with their Kurono SEIJI release appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Hey brands, put all the spec cards on the table or your bluff will get called
Earlier this week, the watch community joined the author of this piece in expressing their disdain when a particular watch brand, to put it nicely, was not forthcoming about what was powering their new novelty. In short, there are accusations the brand’s purported “in-house movement” on a particular model was, in fact, made by ETA … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Hey brands, put all the spec cards on the table or your bluff will get called appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Everything you need to know about Certina and their key models
I remember the first time I visited the Certina website. I had just been made aware of the DS Action GMT and wanted a rundown of the specifications. While there, I ended up browsing their other offerings and as I jumped between their different collections, one thing became clear. Every single reference, regardless of whether … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about Certina and their key models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
What The Heck Is Tantalum?
How the The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Tantalum was made.
Quill & Pad
Breguet Reine de Naples 8938: Just Perfect For My Wrist
When Nancy Olson first saw the Breguet Reine de Naples at Baselworld many years ago, she remembers being taken by its absolute gorgeousness. It was so much more than a jewelry watch and it seemed to be made just for her wrist. Many years and many “try-ons” later, the Reine de Naples is Breguet’s flagship ladies collection, the most recent of which is the Reine de Naples 8938, which is available in two beautifully diamond-set versions.
Quill & Pad
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon: Clean Design, Subtle Finishing, And Exquisite Restraint
The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon is a more complicated version of the original Grande Seconde Skelet-One in which an inverted dial and streamlined skeleton architecture made for an impressive watch. This even more impressive version has also spawned a one-off piece for the 2021 Only Watch charity auction beautified by artistic plique-à-jour enamel.
WatchAdvice
RAKETA “BAIKONUR” Review
It’s the dawn of the new space age. Over the past 10 days, we have had two separate billionaires venturing into space in their very own spacecraft. With Elon Musk also firmly in the race (albeit not in his own ship… yet), it’s quite apt that we look at another aspect of the space age… as in, what will the space tourists wear on their wrist… in space??? When we think about mechanical watches, Swiss and Japanese watches usually come to mind. Perhaps followed closely by German watches. What about Russian? They pop up in a watch conversation perhaps as many times as humans have been into space. (Although given recent developments, the numbers might grow in favour of humans in space…) However, the Russians did have a thriving watch industry and whatever your viewpoints are political, you cannot ignore the fact that there are many interesting and fascinating Russian watches available today. Some of them were even developed with space travel in mind. Introduced in 1961, named in honour of Yuri Gagarin’s first manned flight to outer space on the Vostok 1, Raketa (Russian for “Rocket”) is perhaps one of the better known Russian watch companies. In fact, they are a true Manufacture in the sense that not only do they make their own movements, they also produce their own hairsprings, meaning they don’t need to rely on Swiss or Japanese supplies for this crucial part. One of the main points of difference is the “secret Soviet alloy” used to produce the hairsprin...
SJX Watches
Kees Engelbarts Introduces the Dragon Gate Trilogy
According to Chinese legend, a carp that could jump the falls at the Dragon Gate of the Yellow River would transform into a dragon. The tale inspired the latest from Kees Engelbarts, a Dutchman who’s one of the most prominent engravers in Swiss watchmaking. The Dragon Gate Trilogy is a three-piece set of watches, each featuring a unique, hand-engraved and enamelled decoration that charts the carp’s transformation from fish to dragon. They are presented in an equally lavish box that’s hand made by a French cabinet maker and decorated by an award-winning lacquer artisan. Initial thoughts Over his two decades in watchmaking, Mr Engelbarts has created wristwatches of surprisingly diverse variety. Last year’s skeleton tourbillon was airy and organic, while the Dragon Gate Trilogy is decidedly more decorative. The trio is certainly not for everyone, though I do like the middle of the three watches, which depicts the carp in the midst of its transformation. The dial is striking and dramatic. The transformation dial But while the style is subjective, the quality of Mr Engelbart’s work is objectively excellent – unsurprising given that he’s long been a go-to engraver for a number of independent watchmakers, including veteran Svend Andersen. Mr Engelbart’s creations are truly high-quality artisanal work. The engraving is finely detailed and three dimensional, while being enhanced by Mr Engelbart’s clever use of exotic materials. The carp dial, for instance, feature...
Hodinkee
Murder, Mystery, and Clockmaking
Back in 1974, the late filmmaker Bertrand Tavernier made 'The Clockmaker of St. Paul,' a fascinating and oblique drama that probed the psyche of the horologist.
Time+Tide
6 watches that tell the history of Longines dive watches in the ’60s and ’70s
Longines is one of the more successful and storied Swiss watch manufacturers over its lengthy history, which dates all the way back to 1832. But when most of us think of vintage Longines, we think of beautifully proportioned dress watches from the 1950s and their critical contribution to pilots watches from the early ’30s. In … ContinuedThe post 6 watches that tell the history of Longines dive watches in the ’60s and ’70s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Panerai Memorialises Classic 1930s Sailboat Eilean
Panerai’s latest is unusual relative to its recent launches that are clearly contemporary designs – the Radiomir Eilean PAM 1243 is a traditionally-styled special edition that commemorates the eponymous sailboat built in 1936, the year the brand started supplying the Italian military with its waterproof wristwatches. Panerai acquired Eilean in 2006, after its former chief executive Angelo Bonati – a keen sailor with a fondness for old school sailboats – spotted the derelict yacht in Antigua. Three years of restoration made it seaworthy again, and now the boat occasionally sails as a roving ambassador for the watchmaker. While its outline and layout are familiar, the Radiomir Eilean incorporates details not commonly found on Panerai watches, such as the pinstriped dial inspired by the teak deck of Eilean. And the case has a special, “aged” finish first seen on the Radiomir 8 Days PAM 992 of 2019 that’s simultaneously shiny and matte, giving it a lived-in feel but not quite vintage. Engraving is done on the case side, leaving the dial clean Initial thoughts The Radiomir Eilean has most of the features that make for an appealing Panerai wristwatch, including a good-looking palette and discreet, interesting details across the dial and case – except for the oversized Eilean emblem on the case side. The mix of new and old in the design will not be for everyone, but I like it. Particularly attractive are the vintage-y colours, which have all been used before, b...
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Heritage Perpetual Calendar in Blue Enamel
H. Moser & Cie. is quietly marking the 15th anniversary of its flagship complication with the Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel. It was, in fact, this very simple and smart perpetual calendar that helped put the brand on the map when it was revived in 2005 (while the original brand was established in 1828). Like the commemorative edition made for its 10th anniversary – which was essentially a fancy pocket watch with a strap – the new perpetual calendar is a departure from the brand’s typical design and instead relies on more classical flourishes, most notably an enamelled dial and case band. But true to the brand’s inclinations, the design remains relatively clean, largely to the concise calendar display. A subtle perpetual calendar Initial thoughts Moser’s perpetual calendar has long been applauded – for good reason. For one, the display is an elegant alternative to the typical, in-your-face layout made up of multiple sub-dials. Despite being less, the Moser perpetual manages to do more, being eminently legible. And the calendar is also convenient in a tactile sense – it can be set forwards as well as backwards. But being introduced 15 years ago, the complication is now familiar, familiar enough that it might be forgotten. The presentation then becomes important. And here the new edition is successful. Being part of the Heritage collection, the new model is quite different the brand’s usual offerings, like the Pioneer and Endeavour. In...
Hodinkee
In-Depth: Urwerk Puts The Space Shuttle On Your Wrist
One watch artfully links Swiss manufacturer Urwerk to NASA's Space Shuttle and the Intrepid Sea, Air & Space Museum in New York.
Time+Tide
The Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle in The Sky offers vintage delights with an animated twist
Studio Ghibli is a Japanese national treasure in the world of anime with a vast output of traditional animated films. Each one is a very Japanese, deeply immersive experience populated by creatures that would never have made it past a Disney focus group and propelled by a decidedly less commercial set of values. The Seiko … ContinuedThe post The Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle in The Sky offers vintage delights with an animated twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Downsizing to 36mm opens up a world of value: How to find a vintage Submariner for under $5000USD
The surge in popularity of Tudor seems unstoppable. The realisation that Small is the New Big has made the Black Bay 58 a real favourite thanks, in part, to its 39mm case. However, there are quite a few of us that have also opened our eyes to the origin of the species, the Tudor Prince … ContinuedThe post Downsizing to 36mm opens up a world of value: How to find a vintage Submariner for under $5000USD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Only Watch 2021: Charles Girardier 1809 Tribute to Jackson Pollock
While named after a late-18th century Swiss watchmaker, Charles Girardier is a startup, having been established in 2018 by Patrick A. Ulm, a Swiss private banker with a passion for watches. The brand focuses on tourbillon wristwatches, but enhanced with elements inspired by vintage Charles Girardier pocket watches, such as paillonnee enamel dials and its whimsical “mysterious” complication. Its Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse Fleur de Sel won the Ladies’ Complications Watch Prize at last year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve, beating out competition from big names like Bulgari and Piaget. For Only Watch 2021, Charles Girardier created the 1809 Tribute to Jackson Pollock, a wristwatch with a figure-of-eight dial layout in grand feu enamel and an unusual automatic movement with a peripheral rotor. Initial thoughts Being relatively young, Charles Girardier only has one model to its name so far, the Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse. Still, it’s a technically interesting watch, making it a useful starting point for an Only Watch edition. The Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse is symmetrical – both on the front and the back. The dial is arranged in a figure-of-eight, with a flying tourbillon at six, and the “mysterious” complication at twelve. The “mysterious” complication is the brand emblem that spins freely, thanks to a weight on its back that’s hidden under the dial. It gives the dial dynamism, though the “mysterious” complication feels a b...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks in size but not impact
The evolution of an iconic design is interesting. How do designers keep something fresh, without losing the identity that made it an icon in the first place? Be it the iPhone, the Porsche 911 or the Nik Air Jordan sneaker, it’s a challenge that organisations around the world struggle with and this year IWC took … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks in size but not impact appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked “Rainbow”
Undoubtedly the most technically interesting movement in a time-only Royal Oak, the skeletonised cal. 3132 with twin balance wheels made its debut in a discreet package in 2016. It got fancier attire more recently with a gem-set “rainbow” bezel and hammered case finish, but only with the smaller, 37 mm case. Now “rainbow” meets mechanics in the 41 mm case for the first time – in all three colours of gold no less. Extravagant but surprisingly not that exorbitant in price, the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked 41 mm combines the largest-sized case with a multicoloured bezel, and most importantly, the twin-oscillator movement. Initial thoughts A unique combination of bling and technical credentials is precisely the appeal of the new Double Balance. Currently fashionable and maybe too common, the multi-coloured gemstone bezel is over the top but it is cool. The movement, on the other hand, is smart. The calibre relies on twin balance wheels, each with its own hairspring, to average out positional errors and improve stability, making for better timekeeping over the long run. This mix of sparkly excess and mechanical achievement is rare, which sets the watch apart from its peers. So if you’re someone who likes “rainbow” watches, this is one of the few that has strong technical merit. And it’s priced at about US$120,000, which is definitely a square deal for such a watch. The only downside is the pronounced lack of availability, which ...
Time+Tide
Prepare to be mesmerised by the dial of the Laine 1817 engraved first series
Torsti Laine is a relatively fresh face on the independent watchmaking scene, releasing his first watches back in 2016, but he’s quickly made a name for himself by offering affordable and customisable watches. Born in Finland, Laine was a computer programmer before he turned his hand to watchmaking, enrolling in the Kelloseppäkoulu Finnish School of … ContinuedThe post Prepare to be mesmerised by the dial of the Laine 1817 engraved first series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Pandemic Buying: A Plethora Of Auction Watches Hammering For More Than A Million In 2020 And 2021 - And, Yes, Most Were By Patek Philippe
At watch auctions by Phillips, Christie’s, and Sotheby’s held in 2020, the first year of the pandemic, 22 timepieces hammered for more than one million Swiss francs. And to date in 2021, there have been (at least) 13 watches selling for more than one million Swiss francs. Elizabeth Doerr highlights the top auction results of the pandemic era so far, and, yes, Patek Philippe still reigns supreme.
SJX Watches
Only Watch 2021: Breguet Type XX
Breguet has an unexpectedly long history in military watches dating back over a century, but its best known military timepieces are undoubtedly the aviator’s chronographs made for the mid-century French Air Force and navy. It was one such watch that inspired the Type 20 Only Watch 2019. For this year’s Only Watch auction, Breguet turned pivoted to the civilian-market equivalent with the Type XX Only Watch 2021. Breguet incorporated details not found on the 2019 watch, namely a “Big Eye” register as well as a 12-hour bezel. Together, this and its predecessor form a perfect pair that encapsulate Breguet’s 20th century pilot’s chronographs. Initial thoughts The result achieved by the Type 20 at Only Watch 2019 – Breguet has supported the charity since its inauguration in 2005 – makes the motivation behind yet another pilot’s watch clear. While the technically-impressive in-line perpetual calendar created for Only Watch 2017 sold for CHF110,000, the Type 20 achieved fetched CHF210,000 – twice as much despite being a steel watch with a simple movement. The Type XX conveniently sticks to the same formula, making it almost interchangeable with the Type 20 at a distance. Most obvious is the milk-chocolate dial, which evokes the aged “tropical” dials of vintage examples. The rich, even colour allows it to stand on its own as a modern-day take on an old look. It’s achieves a nostalgic feel without trying too hard. But it is in exactly the same shade as ...
Deployant
Review: The New Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Black
Chopard presents the latest iteration of its world time reference, the L.U.C Time Traveler One Black, the first worldtimer ever made in ceramised titanium.
SJX Watches
Business News: Consolidation in European Pre-Owned Watches
Historically fragmented and dominated by numerous small players, the pre-owned watch industry has been consolidating with at an increasing pace, driven by the e-commerce and ambitious entrants from outside the business. Amongst the most prominent and fastest-growing is Watchbox, which began as an offshoot of authorised retailer Govberg Jewelers but has since grown into one of the largest pre-owned merchants with outposts in Hong Kong, Dubai, and even South Africa. Even Richemont, the Swiss conglomerate that owns brands like Cartier and IWC, has invested substantially in the space with its 2018 acquisition of British outfit Watchfinder. Though the most widely-reported developments in the business are largely concentrated in the United States and Britain, continental Europe is experiencing similar growth, especially in its largest markets like Germany and France. The recently announced takeover of Paris-based MMC by Watchmaster in Germany illustrates many of the trends shaping the pre-owned business. Like many recent startups in the space, Watchmaster was founded by digital entrepreneurs instead of watch industry insiders. In fact, almost all of Watchmaster’s founders and senior managers are former employees of Quandoo, the restaurant booking platform that was sold to Japanese staffing giant Recruit Holdings in 2015 for about €200 million, shortly before Watchmaster was set up. Watchmaster’s current chief executive, Tim-Hendrik Meyer, was a cofounder of Quandoo, as a...
Deployant
Review: new Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TR
G-SHOCK has announced the release of the GMW-B5000TR, a new addition to the square full metal 5000 series of shock-resistant watches made with a new titanium alloy developed specifically for G-SHOCK.
SJX Watches
Only Watch 2021: Krayon Anywhere “Impression, Sunrise”
Founded in 2013 by veteran movement constructor Rémi Maillat, Krayon made its debut with the impressive, enormously complex mechanical computer that calculates sunrise and sunset times in any location. It followed up with the more affordable Anywhere, which strikes a better balance between complexity and user friendliness. And now for Only Watch 2021, Krayon is taking the Anywhere to the next level with a metiers d’art dial. The Krayon Anywhere Only Watch 2021 features a lacquer dial inspired by Monet’s Impression, Sunrise. Initial thoughts The standard Anywhere is compelling to begin with, complex but executed in thoughtful manner. Despite being ultra complicated – the movement is made up of over 430 components, rivalling a split-seconds chronograph – the Anywhere is rather easy to read and operate, as well as being wearable at just 39 mm wide and 9.5 mm high. But the original design arguably left room for improvement. The hour markers, for instance, seem to interrupt the styling of the dial. And it appears that the Only Watch edition has picked up where the original left off by refining the dial design. The highlight is the dial centre that’s a reinterpretation of Impression, Sunrise by Claude Monet, a thematically-congruent decoration since both the watch and painting are centred on the Sun. Like the painting, the dial is Impressionist in its execution: the Sun rising over water is only visible at a distance. Also notable is the movement inside, which is...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Scratches and Skeletons: Two Vastly Different Takes On The Norqain Independence 21 (Live Pics & Pricing)
For its new limited editions, the upstart Swiss brand went in two directions at once.
SJX Watches
Only Watch 2021: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 15202XT
Audemars Piguet (AP) has made no secret of the fact that it’s retiring the Royal Oak Extra-Thin ref. 15202 at the end of 2021 – along with the slim cal. 2121 movement inside. Essentially a remake of the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 “Jumbo” launched in 1972, the ref. 15202 will be missed and its successor much anticipated. But AP is saying farewell in style at Only Watch 2021 with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Only Watch ref. 15202XT in titanium and bulk metallic glass. Despite the modern materials, the watch is a dead ringer for an “A Series” Royal Oak ref. 5402 because the dial is a replica of the original, right down to the typography. Note the typography, as well as “Swiss” at six under the indices – details identical to those on the ref. 5402 Initial thoughts It’s hard to render the ref. 15202 unattractive. Close to the original in look and feel, the ref. 15202 has been iterated several times in the last few years, with each version slightly different in style but similarly attractive – examples include the “salmon” or smoked-green versions. Dressed in shades of grey, the Only Watch edition differs from its predecessors in colour and texture, but remains equally handsome. The all-grey, tone-on-tone palette has an appealing industrial feel, which suits the angular style that’s slightly brutal but refined in construction. The colours are not the only differentiating factor for the Only Watch “Jumbo”. The sandblasted titanium case ...
SJX Watches
Only Watch 2021: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27001M-001
Departing from its Only Watch tradition of unique versions of current-production wristwatches, Patek Philippe’s contribution to Only Watch 2021 is a desk clock with perpetual calendar modelled on a 1923 original now in the Patek Philippe Museum. The Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27001M-001 is inspired by a desk clock owned by James Ward Packard, the American automobile tycoon who was one of Patek Philippe’s leading clients in the 1920s. Made of sterling silver and vermeil with inlays of American walnut, the clock contains a 31-day movement featuring a perpetual calendar. Initial thoughts Topping the mega, CHF31 million result for the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A at Only Watch 2019 would be hard to imagine since the Grandmaster Chime is the most complicated and expensive watch in the brand’s catalogue. Resetting the counter with a desk clock is a shrewd move since its avoids comparisons with the wristwatch of 2019. That said, the desk clock is actually more unique than anything else Patek Philippe has made in recent memory – it is literally the timepiece of this form that exists. Even the unique Dome Clocks and desk clocks that Patek Philippe offer in its annual Rare Handcrafts line up are based on standard templates. It’s worth noting that the desk clock has a “rose-gold opaline” dial similar to that of the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A, so it might make a nice pair for the buyer of the 2019 watch. Packard’s clock The inspiration for this clock...