Deployant
H. Moser: Making Swiss Made Great Again? Should it Matter?
it's safe to say that the issue and the definition of "Swiss Made" or any other appellation for that matter is not a simplistic or even arbitrary one.
3,803 articles · 48 videos found · page 1 of 129
Deployant
it's safe to say that the issue and the definition of "Swiss Made" or any other appellation for that matter is not a simplistic or even arbitrary one.
Quill & Pad
Love them or hate them, one thing that most collectors know is that tourbillons are very expensive. That's all changed with Patria's Brigadier Tourbillon Subscription Edition costing 'just' CHF 18,000 for a beautifully hand finished Swiss Made tourbillon.
Time+Tide
Coronavirus has surpassed all previous crisis’ in terms of its negative impact on the Swiss watchmaking industry, with a 25 per cent downturn anticipated for 2020, according to a report by Bank Vontobel. This is worse than the Quartz Crisis, which saw a 15 per cent decline, and the 22 per cent downturn in the … ContinuedThe post Coronavirus projected to wipe out 60 ‘Swiss Made’ watch brands, while downturn surpasses Quartz Crisis and GFC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Worn & Wound
Delma is celebrating its Centennial Anniversary in 2024. Family owned and operated in Lengnau, Switzerland, Delma watches has been in continuous production since its inception in 1924. To mark this tremendous milestone, they have created something quite special. Introducing the Delma 1924 Tourbillon. Yes, you read that correctly, a Tourbillon, limited to just 100 pieces. Historically, the Tourbillon complication has been reserved for ultra high-end watch brands to flex their horological muscles, while at the same time commanding equally high prices. In recent years, however, brands like Tag Heuer and Horage have brought these prices down to the realm of relative affordability. Delma wanted to do the same, while also making sure the movement was 100% Swiss. What is the big deal with Tourbillons? Simply put, the Tourbillon places the escapement and regulator within a rotating cage that revolves 360 degrees in 60 seconds, effectively negating any positional errors. Tourbillon calibers have a reputation for being rather delicate, and are often fitted to dress watches in precious metals. With the help of their Swiss supply partners, Delma has gone the extra mile to ensure these watches are shock resistant to 5000g and antimagnetic to 2000 gauss. This sporty 41mm hand wound watch is made of 316L stainless steel and is nearly completely brushed, except for the beveled edges lining the top of the case. There is a display back, to admire the movement and it is fitted to a matchin...
Video
Swiss watch sales keep going down down down, but there is one segment of the watch industry that is booming! I went to find out why.
Quill & Pad
Every time Ian Skellern writes the words “relatively affordable” here on Quill & Pad, he braces himself for the stream of comments reminding him that he must live in an alternative reality to most of the world. So he doesn't describe the Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono as relatively affordable (though compared to most of the watches we review on Quill & Pad he thinks it well merits that description), but he does think that it’s fantastic value and the bargain of the year. And here he explains why.
Revolution
Quill & Pad
Every time Ian Skellern writes the words “relatively affordable” here on Quill & Pad, he braces himself for the stream of comments reminding him that he must live in an alternative reality to most of the world. So he doesn't describe the Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono as relatively affordable (though compared to most of the watches we review on Quill & Pad he thinks it well merits that description), but he does think that it’s fantastic value and the bargain of the year. And here he explains why.
Deployant
Hands on review of the Horage Tourbillon 1 - at the last week where it is possible to order one in this subscription series. Now with the in-house movement.
Revolution
Video
The Bvlgari Octo Roma WorldTimer blends bold Italian design with the precision of Swiss watchmaking. In this unboxing, I take a closer look at one of the most striking travel watches around. Featuring the iconic Octo...
Deployant
Press Release & Review of the Moser Swiss Alp Watch S with hands-on analysis and live high resolution photographs.
SJX Watches
Late last year, Rolex unveiled its accessories line, comprised of a range of cufflinks and the Submariner Date Desk Clock ref. 909010LN. In the typical Rolex fashion, the new accessories are conservatively styled; the desk clock is essentially a Submariner face enlarged to 80 mm. But in typical Rolex fashion, the clock is impressively made. The Submariner desk clock is an impressive piece of desk-bound timekeeping. Execution is top class with flawless fit and finish, while the mechanics (or more accurately, electronics) are advanced: the quartz movement incorporates a 400-year perpetual calendar, and surprisingly, decorative finishing. Initial thoughts The Submariner desk clock is an impressive object, sizeable, heavy, and clearly well made. It has to be seen – and held – in person to understand the quality of make. Elements like the brushed steel case (that’s ironically not water resistant), engraved bezel insert, and decorated movement speak to the precision manufacturing and finishing. This clock is a beautifully-made industrial creation. That said, the design is a boring. It’s basically a Submariner face blown up to 80 mm. Fans of the design will be pleased as Rolex did replicate the details of the wristwatch artfully, right down to the engraved flange around the dial and tiny crown within “Swiss made”. Fortunately, the insides of the clock are more advanced than the design. The cal. 8335 displays the time and date, but the date is actually a secular calend...
Worn & Wound
We’re about half a year removed from the release of Toledano & Chan’s b/1.3r, certainly the brand’s most ambitious release to date with a solid gold dial, subtly updated case construction, and their first “Swiss Made” designation. They’ve followed up that launch with their first collaboration with The Horologly Club, the Hong Kong based watch collecting community (which actually has members all over the world, including T&C; cofounder Alfred Chan), just announced this morning. The new limited edition, which they’ve called the Breutalist, takes on a familiar form with some very specific design codes that fans of the brand will likely welcome. The distinctive shape of Toledano & Chan’s watches have taken inspiration from the former Whitney Museum building, designed by Marcel Breuer, from the very beginning. The building is considered a masterpiece of Brutalism, an architectural discipline often cited as inspiration by watch designers, but rarely actually “getting it” in the way Toledano & Chan does (they ship their watches in concrete presentation boxes, which puts them miles ahead of other so-called Brutalist brands, in my opinion). The design of the iconic windows in that building, specifically, is what lends T&C;’s watches their distinctive, asymmetrical shape, and informs the shape of the crystal, which has become a T&C; calling card. The idea behind the Breutalist is to be far more straightforward and literal in what it takes from Brutalism and Breu...
Monochrome
Over the past couple of years, we’ve come to the conclusion that Union Glashütte is quite a stand-out brand among the predominantly Swiss Made brands under the Swatch Group umbrella. It benefits from the group’s vertical integration yet is able to put its own mark on things, allowing it to hallmark its watches as Made […]
Hodinkee
What We Know If the current generation of Jaeger-LeCoultre's Polaris didn't quite do it for you, namely in the 42mm case sizes across the board in the Polaris lineup, this new 40mm version of the Polaris Date might just be a more compelling option. The new 40mm steel case is not only smaller in diameter, but actually thinner too, measuring 12.9mm compared to 13.92mm with the 42mm casing. No, it doesn't make for a slim time-and-date watch, but it's still an improvement for the sporty case. The new diameter, paired with an already compact lug profile, means that this version of the Polaris should be quite wearable for an even smaller subset of wrists now. Dial-wise, this 40mm Polaris Date uses the same lacquered fumé blue dial as the 42mm version, with a dramatically gradient sunray-brushed center section surrounded by a snailed minutes track and an outer grained section for the applied markers and date window. The inner bezel, complete with orange accents, is controlled through the second crown at 4 o'clock and can be used to track elapsed time. But while the dial doesn't offer anything new in the way of color, there are actually two small details modified from the 42mm version that I think are major improvements. First is the positioning of the Jaeger-LeCoultre logo, now placed in the center brushed section rather than crammed right underneath the "12" markers in the 42mm version. And thankfully, "Automatique" is now gone from the dial, leaving only "Swiss Made" at the ...
Video
Rolex vs. Grand Seiko, Tudor vs. Seiko, Citizen vs. Longines, Patek Philippe vs. Credor — in this video we compare seven Japanese watches against seven Swiss watches, watch for watch, to find out where the Swiss pre...
Worn & Wound
After reading the requirements from NASA to become an astronaut, I can confidently say that my dreams of going to space anytime soon have been indefinitely paused. There are a few requirements that I just don’t seem to fit. Among them, I need to hold a Master’s degree in a STEM field (I have a bachelor’s degree in Gender Studies); I need to meet a rigorous physical (nothing about me has ever been described as “rigorous”); and you need to have 20/20 vision (not the first time astigmatism has bitten me in the ass). While this realization has come to a shock for me – a man who has never worked out a day in his life and squints to read the McDonald’s drive-through menu – I can say I’m quite comforted in the fact that Oris and Bamford Watch Department have just released their ProPilot Altimeter Mission Control. So if I can’t do the job, I can at least look the part. It’s safe to say that over the last few years, Oris’ stock has continued to rise. Couple that with Bamford’s proven track record to be an ideal collaborator and you have a match made in carbon-fiber composite heaven. For starters, the base watch of this reference is the ProPilot Altimeter, which has the distinct bragging rights of being the only watch in the world to house a Swiss Made automatic mechanical movement alongside a mechanical altimeter. And while this technical skill is undoubtedly what got Oris and Bamford’s proverbial wheels turning, it was the design of the ProPilot which a...
Worn & Wound
It is a global phenomenon: some of the most exclusive independent watch brands have in the last five years created more accessible and more affordable sister brands or collections. These are undoubtedly linked to the main brand thanks to similar design features and a similar spirit. Just look at MB&F; and its M.A.D.Editions in Switzerland, Grönefeld and Grøne in the Netherlands, and Hajime Asaoka with Kurono Tokyo. Their normal offering is in the tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars, and now their sister brands offer watches for a few thousand – and you don’t have to wait for years to get a watch. Why are they doing this? What effect does it have on the general perception of the main brand? What are the collectors’ reactions to the more accessible offerings? Occasionally, it goes in the other direction. The Finnish brand Leijona’s Heritage 1907 Collection punches above its weight. It shows that a quartz based, mass market brand can make Swiss Made mechanicals together with a legend like Kari Voutilainen. We’ll get back to that. Just as we’ll get to Swatch’s recent collaborations with its fancier siblings within the Swatch Group. This phenomenon is all but new. Just look at Rolex and Tudor, the latter registered in 1926. “It was exactly the same as what we see today. Rolex founder (Hans) Wilsdorf wanted to offer high-quality watches at more affordable prices,” said watch expert Gianfranco Ritschel. Another example, half a century removed, is Cartie...
Monochrome
When it was launched last year, MING’s 37.02 Minimalist represented several firsts for Ming Thein’s independent Malaysian brand. For starters, it was the brand’s first watch made at MING’s facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Ironically, though, the watch could not bear the “Swiss Made” label because the design and engineering were executed in Kuala Lumpur. […]
Monochrome
Swiss watchmaking captures all the attention. The most prestigious brands, trusted by the market, are “Swiss Made”, which acts as an absolute guarantee. The only one to dominate the watch landscape, historically, outside of Switzerland, is the great Japanese classic: Seiko. On closer inspection, however, watch-related know-how has developed outside of Switzerland, particularly in Eastern […]
Deployant
The king of affordable Swiss made tourbillons releases a new flying tourbillon priced below the CHF 11k: The Ba111od Chapter 4 Infinity Flying Tourbillon.
Video
Discover the full history of Grand Seiko. The Swiss held a monopoly on luxury watchmaking, but then came Grand Seiko. From its humble beginnings in 1960 to its current status as one of the most respected watchmakers,...
SJX Watches
Echoing its own contrasting approach to design, MB&F; is growing its affordable M.A.D. Editions with the addition of the more conventional M.A.D.2. Conceived by Eric Giroud, a longtime designer who designed the very first MB&F; watch, the M.A.D.2 has a 42 mm round case that contains a self-winding movement with a bidirectional jumping hour. Modelled on a DJ’s turntable, the M.A.D.2 debuts in two variants. Orange is available only to MB&F; owners, otherwise known as “The Tribe”, as well as “Friends”, associates and partners of the brand. Green will be available to the public and sold via an online raffle as was the case for earlier M.A.D. Editions. Initial thoughts Two things stand out about the M.A.D.2. One is that it’s a fairly conventional round watch, as opposed to the more exotic style of the M.A.D.1. This is a logical evolution of the affordable-MB&F; concept since it echoes the segmentation of MB&F;’s own catalogue between the sci-fi Horological Machines and classical Legacy Machines. The second notable aspect is that it’s Swiss made like the recent M.A.D.1S; the base movement is La Joux-Perret G101 while the jump hour module is also Swiss according to MB&F;. In contrast, the original M.A.D.1 was assembled in Switzerland with imported components, including a low-cost Miyota base movement (however, the Swiss G101 is actually based on a Miyota construction). While being “Swiss made” doesn’t make it a better watch or necessarily mean every component is m...
Worn & Wound
In honor of the 50th anniversary of the Tornado aircraft’s maiden flight, Hanhart, in collaboration with PANAVIA Aircraft, created the 417 ES Tornado Limited Edition. This exclusive timepiece, limited to just 148 pieces, is a tribute to the historic first flight on August 14, 1974. The Tornado aircraft, a symbol of European defense cooperation, took to the skies for the first time with a British-German crew, marking a significant milestone in aviation history. To commemorate this event, Hanhart has crafted a watch that combines both vintage and modern aesthetics into one chronograph. The 417 ES Tornado Limited Edition features a stainless steel case housing the reliable Swiss Made Sellita AMT 5100 M Flyback movement, offering a power reserve of up to 58 hours. The dial is adorned with the cockade colors of Germany, Italy, and the United Kingdom, paying homage to the partner nations involved in the Tornado project. Its rotating fluted bezel and luminous hands and indices in Old Radium color enhance its vintage charm. The case measures 39mm in diameter and is 13.3mm tall. This chronograph stands out with its historical design elements, including the bi-compax layout, and the iconic red markings. The finely polished chamfers and anti-reflective convex sapphire glass add to its elegance and functionality. It’s water-resistant up to 10 bar and comes with a black calfskin strap. Priced at 2,590€, the watch is available at Hanhart’s website now. Images from this post: T...
Worn & Wound
Swedish brand Bravur was founded in 2011 with the goal to design, develop and hand build mechanical watches to order. Essentially, crafting watches to the highest standards, never compromising on craftsmanship and quality. They build all their mechanical watches in a small workshop in Båstad and having their own assembly gives them maximum control over their production. Inspired by the founder’s shared enthusiasm for bicycle racing in the southern region of Sweden, their latest 2024 release is a new range within their ‘Team Heritage’ series. There are three new models, the REN, PEU and MER, each representing an iconic cycling team from the 1950s to 80s. The measurements are 37mm in diameter, 44.6mm from lug-to-lug and only 11.4mm thick, while a Swiss Made Sellita SW300 oversees the timekeeping. The muse for the REN edition is the Renault team jersey, the very team that dominated the sport from 1978 to 1983. Its white sandwich dial cleverly displays the bold yellow, black, and white color pattern which characterized that team. The PEU edition’s austere scheme represents the legendary checkerboard pattern of the storied Peugeot team of the 1960s through to the mid-80s. Its excellent monochromatic legibility is ever so lightly garnished with a hint of green accents. The MER edition is the wildest of the three, inspired by the Mercier team that holds the record for the most participations in the Tour de France. Its textured purple dial is surrounded by a bright yellow...
Worn & Wound
The Elka Watch Co. continues to build upon its vintage-inspired D-Series lineup with the D-Series Essence, a limited edition collaboration with Ace Jewelers released Friday. The Essence is intended to reduce a watch to, well, its essence. It’s not the first watch to explore minimalism in design, though the inspiration behind it is certainly unique. The Essence marks the second collaboration between Elka and Ace Jewelers, the first of which saw the release of four limited edition watches with different languages’ numerals. This is, in some ways, a continuation of that series, still interested in numerals, now exploring what a watch looks like in their absence. The deep blue dial features no markings aside from the words “Elka Watch Co.” and “Automatic” below the 12 o’clock and the words “Swiss Made” at the bottom of the dial. Unobstructed by indices or any additional text and with a 41mm case and a domed crystal, the blue dial is reminiscent of the open sea. The dial features a subtle sunburst that prevents it from feeling too flat or visually uninteresting. The 40.8mm stainless case features a screwed-in caseback with 30 meters of water resistance and is 46.5mm lug to lug. The La Joux-Perret G100 automatic movement inside the watch gives it a 68-hour power reserve, and has become a signature of Elka’s products, having been used in its watches since Elka released its first watches on Kickstarter in 2022. Hakim El Kadiri, who re-launched Elka in 2022, has...
Teddy Baldassarre
Swiss watches are regarded by many as the finest timepieces in the world, and finding truly affordable Swiss watches can be, to put it mildly, somewhat challenging. Watches mass-produced in Japan and other Asian countries have cornered much of the market in the affordable realm, which we're defining here as watches with prices roughly topping out at $2,000; even Switzerland's neighbor, Germany, might be able to claim more "serious" brands that aim for this price segment. But due to the sheer size and diversity of its watch industry, Switzerland does offer its own fair share of value-oriented watches, all of which meet the globally respected "Swiss Made" standard. To coin a cliché, you just have to know where to look, and which labels to focus on. Here are 36 affordable Swiss watches, from some of the world's most admired Swiss watch brands, in a handful of popular categories. FASHION Swatch Sistem 51 Price: $155, Reference: SUTN405, Case Size: 42 mm, Case Height: 13.9 mm, Lug To Lug: 50.6 mm, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Crystal: Mineral, Movement: Automatic Swatch, often dismissed as the maker of plastic-cased, quartz-driven, mass-marketed timepieces for limited budgets and trend-driven youth, made the watch world sit up and take notice when it unveiled the Sistem 51 in 2013. Priced at an astounding $150, the watch contained an innovatively designed 51-part mechanical movement with five assembly-line produced modules held together by a single central screw. Swatch...
Video
This American Watch Company Is taking on high-end Swiss and German Watchmakers
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