Hodinkee
In Partnership - Jacob & Co. Gets Astronomically Complicated
Jacob & Co. flexes its horological muscles with the Astronomia Four-Axis Tourbillon and the Astronomia Régulateur
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Hodinkee
Jacob & Co. flexes its horological muscles with the Astronomia Four-Axis Tourbillon and the Astronomia Régulateur
Worn & Wound
In 2024, Jon Cruys – a collector and RedBar veteran among other pursuits in the watch industry – embarked on his next horological endeavor and founded a new twist on the traditional watch fair called Indies NYC. Unlike typical tradeshows, Indies NYC does not sell exhibition space to the brands who showcase there. Instead, it scouts independent watchmaking talent who deserve greater visibility and creates a space where they can display their talents, passion, and, of course, creations in New York City. What began as an intimate, invite-only salon highlighting a small handful of independent brands has grown in short order. The next event is set for October 15 of this year and will include a whopping 20 brands. Still, the essence remains the same – a place for artisan watchmakers and collectors to chat and connect over a shared love for the art of watchmaking. But here’s the real headline: in addition to expanding the biannual salon, Indies NYC is charting into new territory with a charitable component. The event has just introduced its “1% for the Next Generation” initiative, which will go live at the upcoming October installment. This new program helps to bridge the gap between the education of future watchmakers and the growth of independent watchmaking. Beginning this October, 1% of the profit from every watch sold through Indies NYC will go to a watchmaking school chosen by the artisan watchmaker behind the piece. The new next gen program will initially i...
Deployant
Jaquet Droz Tourbillon Plasma Ceramic Oberlap, inspired by the collector who commissioned this with his supercar crossing the Alpine Oberalp Pass.
SJX Watches
Brooklyn-based independent watchmaker Dan Royter takes a new direction with the Legacy Series Nova Edition, entirely unlike his past portfolio of chronographs. The first entry in the brand’s new chapter combines a hand-engraved, burgundy lacquered silver dial with a high-end movement from Andreas Strehler in a mid-sized steel case. The Nova is an enormous step up for the budding American independent in terms of design, decoration, and price. Initial thoughts The impressive artistry of the Nova is surprising given Royter’s humble roots building white-label ETA 7750-powered chronographs, before exploring more ambitious dials with an emphasis on customisation. For a one-man operation, the launch of the Nova seemingly means the end for the DR-02 chronograph. Until recently, Royter was the DR-02 and the DR-02 was Royter. Much of the recent explosion of independent watchmaking has concentrated on this genre of three-hand watches with finely decorated movements and artful dials, or, as is increasingly common, exposed movements. However, the sudden flood of new entrants to this once (nearly) non-existent segment hasn’t resulted in a supply glut. Rather, demand from collectors has grown far faster, making watches from blue-chip brands like Dufour, Voutilainen, and Rexhep Rexhepi unobtainable and raising the floor for less-established brands. Royter signs his work in the manner you’d expect of a master engraver. The point of this preamble is to explain, not justify, why the ...
Time+Tide
The brand debuts new Longines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher, Chrono Moonphase, and 30mm, 34mm, 39mm, and 41mm time and date models.
Teddy Baldassarre
The new Longines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher is a mechanically complex watch in a dressy package and an accessible price point.
SJX Watches
At the beginning of the year, we wondered if 2026 might become the year of the jumping hours wristwatch. While that trend is still developing, a spate of new releases in the past few months has crystallised another trend that’s been taking shape for a number of years: the inverted movement. While not an altogether new format, it’s hard to miss its growing popularity. What is an inverted movement? There’s no hard-and-fast rule for what constitutes an inverted movement, since the category itself has emerged informally. That said, a simple definition takes the term at face value: a movement that’s been reversed inside the case, such that barrel(s), gear train, and escapement are fully exposed on the wrist. The dial, if there is one at all, is usually consigned to a dial flange or small, off-centre time display. Ordinarily, an inverted movement begins its product lifecycle like any other conventional calibre. The Voutilainen 28TI, for example, was adapted from the brand’s normal cal. 28, with an additional train over the centre wheel to reverse the direction of the hands. However, sometimes the inverted variant is selected as the launch platform, with a conventional sibling that follows later — sometimes much later. The inverted cal. 507DR that powered the Breguet Tradition 7027 — the watch that arguably pioneered this trend back in 2005 — pre-dated its conventional counterpart by two decades. The cal. VS00 that powers the Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 is...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Minase takes a simple approach with the 37mm Mastercraft J3, pairing detailed Japanese case finishing with a Miyota 90S5 automatic movement.
Deployant
Discover the Henri Grandjean Magician Atrivm in red and green sapphire. Explore the CHF 990,000 mysterious triple-axis tourbillon watch specs.
Hodinkee
It's hard to believe that Geneva Watch Days, a watch fair that began in 2020 with fewer than 20 participating brands, now welcomes 68 watchmakers for its seventh edition. Taking place September 2-6, Geneva Watch Days has grown into one of the year's most jam-packed watch events, with brand presentations and launches spread across the city. Unlike traditional watch fairs like Watches and Watchers, Geneva Watch Days is decentralized, meaning that brands will present their latest creations at individual showrooms and locations across the city, rather than at one shared venue. At the center of the action is the Rotonde du Mont-Blanc, along the shores of Lake Geneva, where the event's Main Pavilion and Blue Box exhibition space will serve as central gathering points. The Pavilion will host discussions on the broader watch industry, while the Blue Box will showcase a curated selection of watches from different maisons in a themed exhibition. Five of the event's eight founding brands (Breitling, Bulgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, and MB&F;) will participate this year. They'll be joined by a diverse lineup of watchmakers, from major players like Zenith to independents such as Greubel Forsey, Ming, and Laurent Ferrier, many of whom will present new launches. On Thursday, there will also be a charity auction held by Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo. The sale's profits will help provide scholarships for students of Switzerland's oldest watchmaking school, École d'Horloge...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Discover the best dive watches for vacation, tested for pool days, beach trips, heat, low light, and long hours on the wrist. See which divers earn travel duty.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bernhardt Captain review featuring the Cypress green guilloché dial, rose gold PVD case, Miyota 9039 movement, and compact 38mm dimensions.
Time+Tide
For one of its most recent releases, the Thai-based brand turned to forged carbon, developing the Wise ADAMASCUS A8.1 Forged Carbon Diver.
SJX Watches
Next month the National Museum of Singapore’s Gallery Theatre will play host to Audemars Piguet’s Perspectives On Time exhibition. The pop-up event will explore 150 years of Audemars Piguet through four curated spaces, each focused on a different aspect of the brand’s history. Especially curated for Singapore, the exhibition is set to bring together both contemporary and archival pieces, including a range of historic Audemars Piguet wrist and pocket watches from the brand’s museum, many of which will be on display in the country for the first time ever. Four distinct spaces will be organised to highlight different aspects of Audemars Piguet’s technical prowess, including astronomical complications, open-worked movements, and chiming complications. Naturally, the exhibit opens with a look at the brand’s history from founding to present day, traced through a range of rare archival pieces and historic milestones. Open from 10:30am-6:00pm each day in 30-minute sessions, admission to the exhibition is free, though limited slots will be available so early registration is encouraged. The brand has thoughtfully set up a dedicated booking portal to simplify the registration process. Walk-ins will also be accommodated subject to availability. Perspectives On Time will be hosted from September 10-13 at The Gallery Theatre at the National Museum of Singapore, 93 Stamford Rd, Singapore 178897. Register online at audemarspiguet.com.
SJX Watches
The Roger Dubuis (RD) Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is something of a bridge across eras for RD, combining the brand’s seminal biretrograde calendar format with the 2000s-era Excalibur case, executed in RD’s current lavishly layered house style. The revised perpetual calendar module brings plenty of haute horlogerie finishing to the dial side, and should prove more reliable than past iterations as well. Initial thoughts The Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual is a new model, but it feels like a watch that has always been around, combining several familiar Roger Dubuis elements. Chief among them is the biretrograde format, which has been a staple of the brand since its founding era. When the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar debuted last year, we speculated that a perpetual version was likely in the pipeline, and we didn’t have to wait long to find out. In terms of design, it’s pure RD through and through. The brand has offered glimpses of a return to its roots — the Hommage La Placide was well-received by neo-vintage enthusiasts — but it’s clear the brand remains committed to this bolder, more flamboyant vision of haute horlogerie that it has been championing since the launch of the Excalibur in 2005, albeit at a smaller size. Of course, the design won’t appeal to everyone, but that might be a good thing. Taste convergence favours the classics, but the polarising Excalibur aesthetic will appeal to those who appreciate traditional watchmaking but are ...
Monochrome
For those with a passion for mechanics, like surely many us have, there’s something magical about seeing a watch movement run. Seeing a whole bunch of minuscule parts working in perfect harmony to tell time, and well beyond just the passing of hours, minutes and seconds, just never gets old. With the vast majority of […]
Fratello
Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. Blancpain surprised us this week with a vintage reissue of its 1968 Bathyscaphe. The 37.4mm case of the new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary features a sunburst dial and faux patina, while there’s a ceramic bezel insert and a modern automatic movement inside. Of course, Blancpain […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Vs. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38 to read the full article.
WristBuzz
A cleaner dress flyback and a tool-watch navigator replace the outgoing Panorama Date models. Both are worth your attention.
WristBuzz
Every enthusiast has this debate on a Sunday morning. Omega and Rolex have shared a shelf for 60 years, but the market has moved. Is the fair comparison still Rolex, or is Tudor the one that actually shops in the same €4k to €10k drawer? Five reasons for each side.
Worn & Wound
Something a little different is coming. A geometric case, unconventional controls, a double-retrograde display, and a distinctly retro aesthetic. Two colorways, plenty of lume, and unlike anything we’ve collaborated on before. Worn & Wound × Xeric. Coming soon. The post Coming Soon: Xeric x Worn & Wound appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Keychron 100-Key Macropad When I first saw this keypad, I really couldn’t figure out what it would be used for. Besides the alphabet, a few punctuation keys, and numerals 0–9, that still left about 50-odd keys for…what exactly? Cyrillic? Hebrew? Georgian scripts? Well, dear reader, I got it all wrong. It’s much cooler than that. Keychron’s new C100 8K is a 10-by-10 custom macropad, meaning nearly every key can be assigned to a shortcut, command, or macro. For most of us, yes, that is probably overkill. But for video editors, photographers, programmers, and even gamers, this big ass keypad can be customized around whatever commands they use most. I sort of think I’d look like Homer Simpson at the power plant trying to use this thing, but then again I’m just a simple writer and quite attached to good ol’ QWERTY. Amaran Desktop Mic If there’s one thing about me, it’s that I never shut up. And if I have something to brag about, I never shut up about that either. So when a couple weeks ago, I was interviewed for The Times radio in London, it was all I could talk about (hell, it’s my profile picture on LinkedIn even!). The interview went well enough, ...
Deployant
NORQAIN Independence Skeleton Titanium DLC: the openworked 42mm goes Grade 5 titanium and black DLC at 82 grams, COSC-certified NB08S, from CHF 4,500.
Time+Tide
The new Seiko Presage Classic Series HCC002 & HC008 present attractive dials and versatile aesthetics at an attractive, approachable price.
WatchAdvice
I take IWC’s latest Le Petit Prince chronographs for a hands-on review to discover how two materials completely transform the same design. What We Love Eye-catching white ceramic case and deep-blue dial contrast Ceramic model is lightweight and comfortable to wear, despite its substantial dimensions Two distinct personalities across ceramic and steel What We Don’t Full white ceramic edition lacks everyday versatility Both models are still relatively thick on the wrist 46 hour power reserve is modest by modern watchmaking standards. Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8.7/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.7/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 To mark 20 years of its collaboration with the heirs of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, IWC expands its Le Petit Prince lineup with new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph editions in stainless steel and white ceramic. This was one of IWC’s main themes for Watches & Wonders 2026, with a wide range of models carrying the signature Le Petit Prince design. There are few collections as closely connected to IWC’s modern identity as the Pilot’s Watch, which carries a design inspired by the functional appearance of cockpit instrumentation. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph then combines this aviation-inspired design with one of IWC’s best-known mechanical strengths in watchmaking: chronographs. IWC Schaffhausen’s connection to the story of Le Petit Prince began in 2006, when the Swiss watchmaker started collaborating with the descendants of Fren...
Teddy Baldassarre
Our editorial team members cast their votes for the best watches under $200 out there today. More
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Bulova Starting off this week with a nice vintage Bulova dress watch. At first glance I thought it was an Accutron with the dial and hands, but it’s an automatic Bulova. The yellow gold fill case has a fancy etched bezel to go with the radial brushed dial. This gives the watch a low-key bling look that isn’t too loud. The case is in good shape, as is the dial and hands. This one is time only, no date window. The automatic Bulova caliber 11ALAC movement is clean and runs well per the seller. The watch comes on a handsome leather strap that really goes well. Great looking piece with a high quality movement that should be reasonably priced at hammer time. View auction here Vintage Omega Speedmaster Professional Here’s one that will not be easy on the wallet, but a vintage Omega Speedmaster is worth the money, it’s all that and a bag of chips. This example is from the late 1970s/early 1980s and is likely a ref 144.022, but don’t hold me to it as there are no pictures of the inside caseback or the movement. The iconic case looks unpolished with razor sharp edges on the bombe lugs. The tachymetre bezel is also in superb condition. The black dial looks original and super c...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tissot brings a white mother-of-pearl dial to the 40mm Tissot PRX Powermatic 80, adding an expressive look to the familiar $850 automatic.
Hodinkee
I know we're all here for watches, but there's been so much killer music released in the last bit that it feels foolish not to at least note that, should you require some new jams, recent albums from Twisted Teens and Phoebe Bridgers are plenty deserving of attention, and if you haven't checked out the available tracks from the new Alabama Shakes, hoo boy. I hope you're all well as the days tick along. Scorekeeping last week's picks: the Lemania RAF monopusher sold for 2,000 GBP, and I can't find what the Goodwill UG Clapton ultimately went for, but I saw it cleared $24,000. From the dealers, the Alpina-Gruen sold. The Cartier Shutter and RAN monopusher both remain available. Strays You really like watches and are also a sophisticated connoisseur, and you need a new table lighter—to ignite your guests' cigars; what sort of host would you be otherwise—because someone made off with your last one? Here's a nice sterling Alfred Dunhill for you which, yes, has a watch in it as well because, again, you're sophisticated. Had there not been another watch in the same auction that seemed more interesting, this Omega 2998-4 would obviously have had a full write-up, but I'm also not sure what I would've written other than look at that thing. If you're up for a trio of watches, this lot's got a Tourneau "Top Gun," a solid gold Charles Nicolet, and a fowl-related Helbros for the hunter in your life; and while this Audemars Freres has a rough dial, Audemars Freres watches are uncommo...
Deployant
Blancpain celebrates 70 years of dive watch heritage with the Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Limited Edition, a recreation of the classic 1968 version.
Monochrome
Twelve on Time is a conversation series that invites leading personalities from the watch industry to step beyond their work and speak more personally about their relationship with time, creativity, and craft. Through a set of twelve questions, the column aims to lift the veil on both the individual and their perspective on watchmaking – […]
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