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Results for Chronograph

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El Primero Zenith

Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).
Wiki · Guide
Panda / Reverse Panda Dial

Chronograph dial with high-contrast sub-counters. Vintage Daytona, Speedmaster CK 2998, Heuer Carrera; modern 116500LN, Tudor Chrono.
Wiki · Guide
Telemeter Scale

Chronograph scale converting flash-to-sound time into distance. WWI artillery-spotting origin; vintage Longines / Lemania / Heuer.
Wiki · Guide
Pulsometer Scale

Chronograph scale reading heart rate in BPM after counting 15 or 30 pulse beats. The 1920s-60s doctor\'s watch standard.
#TBT A Colorful Airin Regatta Timer With An Impressive Valjoux 237 Movement Fratello
Sep 19, 2024

#TBT A Colorful Airin Regatta Timer With An Impressive Valjoux 237 Movement

A flyback countdown chronograph with a date at 9 o’clock and a 3Hz beat rate… A mic-drop meme would be enough now to introduce the seemingly unique Airin Regatta Chronograph that resurfaced in France. I have been following French graphic designer and watch collector David Renou, aka @Super.Compressor on Instagram, for quite some time now. […] Visit #TBT A Colorful Airin Regatta Timer With An Impressive Valjoux 237 Movement to read the full article.

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TAG Heuer’s Latest Monaco in Racing Green SJX Watches
TAG Heuer s Latest Monaco Sep 19, 2024

TAG Heuer’s Latest Monaco in Racing Green

Having become something of a tradition, TAG Heuer debuts a new Monaco chronograph just in time for the Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix. Following last year’s edition in shades of grey, the 2024 edition is the Monaco Chronograph Racing Green. Equipped with the Sellita-derived Calibre 11, the new Monaco features chronograph registers in a dark green synonymous with motorsport, set against a clean silver dial. Initial thoughts Arguably TAG Heuer’s iconic chronograph, especially after Steve McQueen wore one in Le Mans, the Monaco gets new livery that embodies its racing heritage. The tricolour dial in green, silver, and yellow is dressed in classic motorsports colours. The titanium case is also a nice touch, instead of conventional steel. However, this Monaco is powered by the Sellita-derived and modular Calibre 11, instead of the in-house Heuer 02 that was found in last year’s equivalent Formula 1 edition. The rationale for the Calibre 11 is a logical one: it allows for an unorthodox nine o’clock crown that replicates the layout of the vintage Monaco, whereas the in-house calibre necessitates a conventional three o’clock position. But the new Monaco still costs CHF9,100, which is less than the models with the Heuer 02 but not that much less. As a result, it’s not as good a value proposition as its counterparts with the in-house calibre, though it is an appealing execution in terms of colours and materials. An old-school design The familiar square Monaco case is in...

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Shining a Light on the A. Lange & Söhne Lumen Collection Teddy Baldassarre
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 18, 2024

Shining a Light on the A. Lange & Söhne Lumen Collection

When A. Lange & Söhne makes a contribution to watchmaking, whether in the areas of technology, design, materials, or any combination of these or other elements, it tends to go above and beyond the call - to challenge itself to reach a little higher, to put its own distinctly Saxon spin on things. This philosophy is evident particularly in the brand’s approach to complications: not just a moon-phase, but a moon-phase that’s accurate for more than a century. Not just a tourbillon, but the first tourbillon with a stop-seconds mechanism. Not just a split-seconds chronograph, but the first “triple split” chronograph to make comparative time measurements of not just seconds and minutes but multiple hours.  It was in that overachieving spirit, no doubt, that Lange developed its own signature illumination system for watch dials, rolling it out in 2010 on the second generation of the groundbreaking Zeitwerk model that it had introduced the year prior. The system, called “Lumen” and patented in 2013, illuminates not only dial elements like hands and indexes in the dark but also components normally hidden beneath the dial’s surface, like date disks and decorated plates, wheels and bridges. Lange’s technical solution to the challenge of charging all of the elements uniformly - luminous-treated surface details like hands, hour markers and subdials, as well as non-treated parts beneath the surface - was a dial made of sapphire and coated with a semi-transparent ...

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The Latest Seiko Prospex Speedtimers are Here Worn & Wound
Hamilton Intra-Matic Chrono though very Sep 17, 2024

The Latest Seiko Prospex Speedtimers are Here

“In this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.” It’s been 235 years since Ben Franklin wrote those words, and I think it’s fair to say he pretty much hit the nail on the head with them. That said, he lived in a different time, so I’d like to offer an update for 2024. “In this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death, taxes, and new Seikos.” Isn’t that better? For the last five years or so, Seiko has slowly been expanding its lineup of mechanical chronographs, and nowhere is this more apparent than in its line of automatic Prospex Speedtimers. Last year, we saw that line expand with the introduction of the 1970s-inspired SRQ047 and limited edition SRQ049. This year, Seiko is building on that model’s success with a fresh pair of reverse panda–dialed chronographs, the SRQ051 and SRQ053. The mechanical Prospex Speedtimer lineup is split into two distinct designs, a slightly dressier bi-register design somewhat reminiscent of the Hamilton Intra-Matic Chrono, though very much an interpretation of Seiko’s original chronograph, the 5719, and a tri-register layout with a sportier case. The SRQ051 and SRQ053 belong to the latter group and feel like the big brother to the immensely popular Solar Speedtimer chronographs we’ve seen iterated upon in the last few years. These latest Seiko chronographs are well-sized, measuring 42mm across, 14.6mm thick, and 49.5mm lug-to-lug. Having spent some time with last year’s models,...

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Baltic Prismic Stone Dial Review Teddy Baldassarre
Baltic Sep 17, 2024

Baltic Prismic Stone Dial Review

I’ve been covering and getting to know the team at Baltic watches for about half a decade now, and in those five years I have watched the brand – with founder Etienne Malec at the helm – transform itself from “microbrand,” playing in the vintage-inspired sandbox, to venerable player in the game, full stop. Where we once heard the Baltic name and immediately thought of watches like the Aquascaphe or Bicompax chronograph, the intervening years have seen launches like the MR-01 micro-rotor model, and the Prismic (foreshadowing) with sprinkles of appearances at Only Watch thrown in for good measure. Returning to the Prismic, that watch debuted earlier this year and represented a venture into fresh territory for a company mostly known for producing tool watches (the MR-01 being the lone prior exception). So when I walked into the Beau-Rivage Hotel in Geneva, Switzerland during Watches & Wonders this year to say hello to my pals at Baltic, I expected to see the entire current catalog and get my hands on those Prismics which I did not yet get a chance to see in person.  Little did I know that they would have three surprises on hand… in April… nearly six months before they were et to be released. I am, of course, talking about the three new limited additions to the Prismic lineup which launched this week. They take the same case construction as the existing models – 36mm wide by 9.2mm tall – but pack a real punch by way of the dials. Where the standard Prismic ...

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A Multi-Function Omega Seamaster Regatta for the America’s Cup SJX Watches
Breitling B-1 was launched Sep 17, 2024

A Multi-Function Omega Seamaster Regatta for the America’s Cup

Having become the official timekeeper for the most prestigious event in yachting, Omega is a key partner at the 37th America’s Cup now taking place in Barcelona. The watchmaker has just unveiled the Seamaster Regatta America’s Cup, an analogue-digital sailor’s wristwatch. Unlike the earlier commemorative Seamaster Diver 300M, the Seamaster Regatta was conceived as a tool. In fact, it is descended from the Speedmaster X-33 of 1998 that was designed for astronauts. Like the X-33, the Seamaster Regatta is equipped with a quartz movement that combines analogue and digital displays in a multi-function package that includes a chronograph, sailing logbook, temperature gauge, accelerometer, and a regatta countdown. Initial thoughts The Seamaster Regatta is something of an anomaly in contemporary horology. It is a quartz-digital instrument that’s arguably purpose built for professional, yet carries a luxury watch price tag of over US$7,000, making it almost as expensive as the mechanical Seamaster 300M chronograph with an in-house movement. And the Seamaster Regatta stands out as one of the rare recent luxury watches that are quartz-digital, since the heyday of such timepieces was in the late 1990s (the comparable Breitling B-1 was launched in 1998 for instance). By the usual standards that watch enthusiasts use to judge a premium watch, the Seamaster Regatta feels expensive. Yet like the X-33 before it, the Seamaster Regatta appears to be an excellent tool. Moreover, it ...

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[Video] Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue Boutique Edition vs. Pink: Which is Better? Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue Sep 13, 2024

[Video] Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue Boutique Edition vs. Pink: Which is Better?

Tudor has been on a roll this year with new additions to the Black Bay Chronograph collection. Just a few weeks ago, they dropped a new addition to its Black Bay Chronograph lineup: the Blue Boutique Edition. Since I recently picked up the pink dial variant, naturally I wanted to get my hands on the blue and see how it stacks up against my current favorite. Both models bring something unique to the table, but should you go out of your way to pick up either? Let me see if I can encourage some of ya’ll to come to the dark side with me! Starting with the classic (and widely available) Black Bay Chronograph, I had a chance to wear the white panda version a few months ago, and while I appreciated its solid build and good looks, something about it wasn’t quite right. I’ll be the first to admit that I am attracted to the Black Bay Chrono because of its similarities to its “big sister” chronograph, the Rolex Daytona. Since I’m not willing to pay gray market prices and getting one at retail is a grail move in itself, I’ve always considered the BB Chrono a solid alternative.  I was super excited Tudor lent me the white panda as I had never gone hands on with one for more than 5 minutes. Upon putting it on my wrist I was totally down with the look of the thicker chronograph but something just wasn’t sitting right (literally). The oyster bracelet just felt too heavy for my taste and bulky in nature. I also found the lack of on-the-fly adjustability frustrating in the ...

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Fratello’s Top 5 Classic El Primero-Powered Watches - Featuring Zenith, Ebel, Rolex, And More Fratello
Zenith Ebel Rolex Sep 13, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Classic El Primero-Powered Watches - Featuring Zenith, Ebel, Rolex, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, we enter the wonderful world of the El Primero movement. As most of you know, Zenith introduced its famous El Primero trio of watches in 1969. The brand was part of the illustrious race to release the first automatic chronograph, competing with Seiko and the consortium of brands formed […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Classic El Primero-Powered Watches - Featuring Zenith, Ebel, Rolex, And More to read the full article.

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Norqain Launches the Independence Skeleton Chrono with the New 8K Flyback Caliber Worn & Wound
Norqain Launches Sep 13, 2024

Norqain Launches the Independence Skeleton Chrono with the New 8K Flyback Caliber

Norqain has just unveiled what is certainly their biggest release of the year, and quite possibly their most ambitious release since the debut of the Wild One two years ago. The new Independence Skeleton Chronograph expands on the design language we saw take shape with the Wild One, and introduces a new, skeletonized, flyback chronograph mechanism. The new watch is conceived as something of a statement piece, meant to highlight what the brand thinks of as their independent spirit, and launches in two variants that illustrate where a full collection of watches powered by this new caliber could potentially go.  The movement at the center of this release has been dubbed the 8K Manufacture Calibre, and features flyback functionality, a tool that was first developed for chronographs used by pilots to time flight related intervals. Flyback functionality allows a running chronograph to be reset to zero instantaneously without first stopping it, so it’s a useful tool for anyone that needs to time multiple intervals in rapid succession (it has gained wide adoption in sporting contexts through the decades). The execution of this particular movement appears to have all of the hallmarks of a solid, modern chronograph movement, including a power reserve stretching to 62 hours, as well as a column wheel. The 8K caliber is also chronometer certified.  It’s also worth noting that the 8K movement was developed in partnership with Manufacture AMT, a division of Sellita known for creat...

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REVIEW: Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Carrera Silver Panda! WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Silver Panda! Combining Sep 13, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Carrera Silver Panda!

Combining classic racing heritage with modern silver charm, I go hands-on with TAG Heuer’s latest offering in their Carrera Glassbox range! What We Love: Glassbox sapphire crystal design Sunray brushed dial Multiple little details that make the watch stand out What We Don’t: The bracelet design feels too standard for a watch of this calibre The date wheel could be better colour-matched to the dial to blend in more seamlessly. Lack of micro-adjustment on the bracelet Overall Rating: 8.9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Ever since the Carrera line was first introduced into the world of horology, with the Heuer Carrera released in 1963, it has been a symbol of precision and racing heritage. When it comes to the world of luxury timepieces, very few designs boast a balance of history, style, and racing inspiration quite like the TAG Heuer Carrera. Before we dive into the review of one of TAG Heuer’s latest offerings of the Carrera this year, it’s essential to understand one of the leading design features of this timepiece: the glassbox. While the glassbox design is one that came about recently from the brand, it does have a deep-rooted history that stretches all the way back to the original 1963 Carrera Chronograph timepiece. View this post on Instagram A post shared by TAG Heuer (@tagheuer) 1963 is arguably one of the most historic years for TAG Heuer, as this is when Jack Heuer introduced the Carrera, an entirely new st...

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Tissot Introduces Compelling new PRX References that Play with Materials and Colors in New Ways Worn & Wound
Tissot Introduces Compelling new PRX Sep 12, 2024

Tissot Introduces Compelling new PRX References that Play with Materials and Colors in New Ways

Confession time: I’ve long been something of a Tissot PRX skeptic. The ultra popular watches have found a wide and enthusiastic audience, but for me they always seemed just a little too much like a Royal Oak homage. I know, I know – they are based on watches from the Tissot back catalog and a side by side comparison reveals plenty of obvious differences. It’s a somewhat irrational position, perhaps, but they feel a little too close for comfort if observed from a distance. But Tissot recently revealed a pair of new watches in the PRX line that took me by surprise in how much I was immediately drawn to them, and taken together they are possibly the most unconventional and visually striking watches in this collection to date.  There’s a huge variety of PRX watches out there – it’s a line that has become the centerpiece of Tissot’s expansive catalog in recent years. There are quartz and mechanical versions of these watches in multiple sizes (40mm and 35mm), as well as a mechanical chronograph. Tissot has also made the PRX in a dizzying array of colors, with gold plated case options as well. The newly introduced variants fall in the PRX Powermatic 80 camp, so they feature Tissot’s 80 hour automatic movement, and each comes in at the 40mm size.  The release that seemed to garner the most traction from the most online members of the watch community was the new PRX with a forged carbon case. This is the first time forged carbon has been used in a PRX, and it imme...

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Hands-On With The New Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ051 And SRQ053 Fratello
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ051 Sep 11, 2024

Hands-On With The New Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ051 And SRQ053

Seiko’s Prospex range is rapidly growing and not just with dive watches. After last week’s introduction of the new Marinemasters, we are now treated to two Speedtimer chronographs. The new SRQ051 and SRQ053 might look familiar. That’s because, last November, we saw two Speedtimer models inspired by the same 1972 Seiko chronograph as these watches. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ051 And SRQ053 to read the full article.

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Breitling Introduces a Trio of Gold Perpetual Calendars for a Big Anniversary Worn & Wound
Breitling Introduces Sep 10, 2024

Breitling Introduces a Trio of Gold Perpetual Calendars for a Big Anniversary

Breitling has been synonymous with pilot watches and aviation for 140 years. Throughout their illustrious history, many iconic collections have been produced, including the Premier, the Chronomat, and, let’s not forget, the world-famous Navitimer. As they approached this significant anniversary, they found themselves in a delightful dilemma. They couldn’t choose which of the three collections should receive special attention. So, instead of choosing, they decided to feature all three, and that’s precisely what they did. And by special attention, they were not talking about just a new dial color, case material, or unique engraving. No, they are introducing a brand-new movement and a first for Breitling. This new B19 movement is not just a column-wheel chronograph, which features a vertical clutch mechanism and a moon phase. It is also a full perpetual calendar that can automatically correct for leap years and months of 28, 30, and 31 days. It can run for nearly one hundred years without significant adjustment, and despite all these extra complications, its power reserve is a very generous 96 hours. In 1943, the Breitling Premier was the watch that brought the chronograph out of the cockpit and onto the wrists of everyday people. With its classic lines, clean looks, and no-nonsense design, it not only looked fashionable but was also very practical. The new Premier B19 Datora 140th Anniversary is no different. It features an 18K red gold 42mm case, which is 15.6mm thick...

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Maurice Lacroix Adds New AIKON References in Titanium Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Adds New AIKON References Sep 10, 2024

Maurice Lacroix Adds New AIKON References in Titanium

Close your eyes and come with me on a walk down memory lane. It’s 2006. I’m in my sophomore year of high school and it’s homecoming season. There’s a dance after the first football game of October and I’m out on the floor, in my very best outfit from JCPenney, waiting for the next song to load from the DJ’s (or was it math teacher’s?) iPod Nano. A synth comes over the gymnasium speakers and my 15-year-old self is introduced to the Grammy-nominated album, Konvicted, by Akon. I don’t think I’ve ever been the same since that moment, dear reader. It’s now nearly 18 years later when I am reminded of this as the latest release from Maurice Lacroix on the extension of their AIKON line-up hits my inbox. Sure, it’s spelled slightly differently, but nostalgia makes rooms for homophones, don’t you think?  The Swiss watchmaker has been producing the AIKON line since 2016 and, for the first time, now comes in titanium. The new additions come in two model options (Automatic or Automatic Chronograph) and a total of four colorways, giving the wearer an array of options for their personal preference and daily needs. Let’s start with the basics first – why titanium? The most important reason people choose titanium is for its durability. As Maurice Lacroix has noted, these four titanium references were designed as a response to their customer base’s needs. Having a watch that can withstand the normal wear and tear of daily life is a blessing when you’re payin...

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REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Classima WatchAdvice
Baume & Mercier Classima Somewhere Sep 7, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Classima

Somewhere in between dress and sports, the new Baume & Mercier Classima may be in a class of its own, but how does this piece traverse daily life? What we Love Classic and elegant looks The deep blue dial Has the right amount of wrist presence What We Don’t The rotor movement is a little noise The chronograph pushers are on the stiff side The crystal is on the thinner side, reducing the solid feeling of the watch Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 7.5/10 In a recent article, I delved into the history of Baume & Mercier, and the brand today, like many watch brands with almost two centuries worth of history, is different from the one started back in 1830 by the two Baume Brothers. Over the decades, and now centuries, it has evolved from a brand that was specialising in high complications and winning awards at The Kew Watch Trials, to being a solid mid-entry level player in the Swiss watch industry. This is a similar story to many others out there, and this is not a negative thing by any stretch, it’s just the way the world works – watches and other industries alike. William Baume and Paul Mercier, the founders of what is now known as Baume et Mercier, which evolved out of the original Baume & Co brand set up in 1830 by William’s Grandfather and Great Uncle. The pioneers of the brands and industries were just that, pioneers and the inventors of their time. Nowadays, you still need this, but more so, you need ...

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H. Moser & Cie. Collaborates with Studio Underd0g on a Fruity Pair SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Collaborates Sep 6, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Collaborates with Studio Underd0g on a Fruity Pair

H. Moser & Cie. has often injected humour into its watchmaking and does so with its latest collaboration, a pair of watches conceived with micro-brand Studio Underd0g. Presented a box set of two watches, the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavor Calendar Passion Fruit and Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit are designed around the same theme, namely passionfruit. Each watch, however, reflects the respective brand’s signature characteristics and price point. The Moser is a perpetual calendar with an in-house movement and fired enamel dial, while the Studio Underd0g is a Sellita-powered chronograph. Initial thoughts The collaborations in horology are sometimes uninspiring and dull. While MoonSwatch may be a commercial hit, or was a hit, it is precisely what one would expect from Swatch and Omega. However, the fruity duo from Moser and Studio Underd0g manage to be different, while retaining the brands’ respective identities. This is also one of the instances where a box set isn’t made up of repetitive or redundant watches. Though similar in colour, the two watches are substantially different, particularly in tactile feel. The owner can choose to wear either for different occasions or even gift one (probably the chronograph). Priced at CHF59,000 for the pair, the passionfruit editions are good value considering what would sell for individually. The Studio Underd0g would probably cost about CHF3,000, with the Moser accounting for the rest of the price, which is comparable to the re...

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TAG Heuer Gets Extreme with the Latest Carreras Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Gets Extreme Sep 5, 2024

TAG Heuer Gets Extreme with the Latest Carreras

If you’d told me eighteen months ago that the TAG Heuer Carrera would, in very short order, find itself once again at the center of enthusiast interest, there’s a very good chance I’d have laughed you out of the room. And yet, here we sit, 17 months on from the release of the Carrera ‘Glassbox’ and there can be no doubt - thanks in part to an expanded lineup of compelling variants of the 39mm chronograph, as well as exciting interpretations like the widely discussed and sought after Seafarer LE for HODINKEE - that TAG Heuer’s signature chronograph is one of the hottest watches on the market. But the Glassbox is only one side of the Carrera story. Now, TAG Heuer is leaning into the other side with the unveiling of a new technical chronograph. Where the Carrera ‘Glassbox’ looks to the history of the Carrera, the new Carrera Extreme Sport - introduced as a collection of six watches spread across two models: the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport and the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport - present a vision of the future and a bold one at that. The two new models share a lot in common, most notably a shared aesthetic and case design. Both the Chronograph Extreme Sport and the Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport measure 44mm across, 15.1mm thick, and 49.7mm lug-to-lug. Certainly not small, but also decidedly wearable for a chronograph meant to wear large. The lug-to-lug measure, in particular, is deceptively compact and shou...

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Roue Adds Two New References to the TPS Collections Worn & Wound
Seiko VK63 Meca-Quartz movement which Sep 5, 2024

Roue Adds Two New References to the TPS Collections

Since 2019, watchmakers Roue have been updating their TPS model in new colors, bringing new life to a vintage-inspired design. In the past, we have covered their releases of Two, Three, Four, Five, Six, and Seven – so you can make a pretty educated guess of what’s been released this week.  Like previous iterations of their TPS collection, the Eight and Nine are inspired by the iconic Porsche 910, winner of the Nürburgring 1000-kilometer race in 1967 (a detail which can be seen on the embossed caseback of this line). The racing inspiration can be felt throughout this watch, most especially in the colorways for both new references. In Eight, you will find a gray dial with orange and yellow accents. For Nine, the tonal language is more classic, utilizing a blue dial with red and white accents. Both watches come with complementary straps which are at once sporty and a bit elegant – much like the TPS line itself. One can choose either a perforated leather Driver strap, or a sportier silicone option.  Features of this watch include a chronograph with both a tachymeter and pulsometer scale. Given the limited real estate on this 40mm case, one would think these functions might be a little squeezed into the frame, so to speak. But Roue has proven time and again that the TPS model is a great example of a perfectly proportioned dial.  The Roue TPS Eight and Nine, like previous iterations, run on a Seiko VK63 Meca-Quartz movement, which combines the accuracy of quartz techno...

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An Incredible 6 Parmigiani Fleurier Watches Shortlisted in the 2024 GPHG Quill & Pad
Parmigiani Fleurier Watches Shortlisted Sep 1, 2024

An Incredible 6 Parmigiani Fleurier Watches Shortlisted in the 2024 GPHG

For a brand to have even two watches shortlisted in the annual Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) is a rare achievement. But in the 2024 GPHG, Parmigiani Fleurier has not two, not three, not four, not five but an incredible six difference watches shortlisted over six different categories: Men’s, Time Only, Ladies, Sports, Chronograph, and Calendar and Astronomy.

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First Look – The Sleek New Angelus Chronodate Titanium Magnetic Silver Edition Monochrome
Angelus Aug 31, 2024

First Look – The Sleek New Angelus Chronodate Titanium Magnetic Silver Edition

Following its revival in 2011, Angelus has focused on building an impressive series of purpose-built movements. In 2022, Angelus introduced the Chronodate with a bi-compax chronograph and pointer date combo. While the Chronodate references the brand’s 1942 model when Angelus was enjoying its heyday as a leading manufacture of chronographs, the reinterpretation is contemporary. For […]

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A Unique A. Lange & Söhne Datograph with Bracelet for Charity SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Aug 31, 2024

A Unique A. Lange & Söhne Datograph with Bracelet for Charity

A. Lange & Söhne’s is marking the 25th anniversary of its iconic chronograph with a series of limited editions, including the fresh-off-the-press Datograph Handwerkskunst. And now the brand has just announced a one-of-a-kind model that will be sold to benefit charity, the Datograph Up/Down “Hampton Court Edition”. In white gold with a dial in grey and black – plus a matching white gold bracelet – the one-off Datograph continues the tradition of periodic unique pieces to benefit The Prince’s Trust, a United Kingdom charity that aids at-risk youth. The last Hampton Court Edition was an 1815 Chronograph in white gold with a black dial. Initial thoughts In some ways this is similar to the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” in being a compilation of Lange’s greatest hits. An iconic model with a unique and appealing dial, along with a weighty solid gold bracelet, make this watch easily appealing. The grey, black, and red dial make this the sportiest Datograph ever, a look that is further accentuated with the gold bracelet. The aesthetic also suits the classic car theme of the watch. Like to sell for high-six, or even low-seven, figures, the Hampton Court Edition will easily become one of the most expensive Lange wristwatches ever sold. Concluding the anniversary The Hampton Court Edition is the final Datograph launched for the model’s 25th anniversary and is in some senses a variant of the Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary, which shares the sa...

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Split Decision: Patek Philippe Reference 5370P vs. A. Lange & Söhne Double Split Chronographs, an Owner’s Perspective Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Reference 5370P vs Aug 31, 2024

Split Decision: Patek Philippe Reference 5370P vs. A. Lange & Söhne Double Split Chronographs, an Owner’s Perspective

If there were a watch enthusiasts’ encyclopedia, under “embarrassment of riches” the image might just be a side-by-side shot two of contemporary watchmaking’s great complicated pieces: the “mighty” A. Lange & Söhne Double Split and Patek Philippe’s Reference 5370P split-second chronograph. In this article, GaryG compares and contrasts them to come out with a winner.

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H. Moser and Studio Underd0g Partner on an Unlikely Collaboration Worn & Wound
H. Moser Aug 30, 2024

H. Moser and Studio Underd0g Partner on an Unlikely Collaboration

If you had any doubts that the collaboration frenzy that has gripped the watch world has cooled, the first day of Geneva Watch Days may have gone a long way toward silencing that particular intrusive thought. Not only did we see a formal alliance between Ming, Fleming, and J.N. Shapiro that we told you about yesterday, but Moser, one of our favorite high end independents, and Studio Underd0g, one of our favorite affordable independents, joined forces in an unexpected way. The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit and the Studio Underd0g Passion Fruit 03Series play to each brand’s unique strengths, and reveal that while it might seem like an odd match on paper, these brands really do have a lot in common.  Let’s look at the perpetual calendar first. The stainless steel Endeavour case measures 42mm in diameter and is a very wearable 12.8mm tall. The dial has a blissful, tropical quality to it, dominated by a solid gold base dial and a lacquered purple surround. It runs, of course, on the HMC manufacture caliber 800, which is simply one of the best perpetual calendar movements in the game, providing more information at a glance you are likely to realize at first.  The Passion Fruit 03Series chronograph could be the Endeavour’s twin separated at birth – it makes use of the same color combinations but transposes them to a chronograph layout. It bears a lot of similarities to the original Studio Underd0g chronos, and the “passion fruit” theme feels like someth...

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Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono Blue SJX Watches
Breitling s B01 but upgraded Aug 30, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono Blue

Tudor’s latest release is the Black Bay Chrono Blue, a boutique-exclusive with a familiar “Panda” dial with snowflake hands, but now in “Tudor Blue”. Just like its pink dial, limited production counterpart, the new chronograph is equipped with a “5-link” bracelet, which is basically Tudor’s version of the Jubilee bracelet. Initial thoughts Tudor is a brand that combines appealing, functional design with historical basis – and an exceptional price-performance ratio. Though still excellent value, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is not revolutionary; the only novel element is the blue dial. However, it remains a strong option for anyone looking for affordable sports chronograph with a high-spec movement. I prefer the look of the original black-and-silver “Panda” dial, but I would lean towards the new variant simply because it is the only regular production model equipped with the “5-link” bracelet that pairs well with the design. Priced at US$5,675, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is a great value proposition. Its strongest feature is the COSC-certified MT5813, a calibre based on Breitling’s B01 but upgraded significantly by Tudor and likely the best chronograph movement at this price point. Tudor blue The stainless steel case is 41 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm in thickness. Water resistant to 200 m, the case features a screw-down crown engraved with the Tudor rose logo and screw-down pushers. The case is satin-brushed on its tops, and mirror-polished on its sid...

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A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Datograph Handwerkskunst SJX Watches
Casio n Aug 30, 2024

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Datograph Handwerkskunst

For the milestone anniversary of its famed chronograph, A. Lange & Söhne hasn’t held back on commemorative editions. Starting with the Datograph Up/Down in blue and then the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”, the German brand now concludes the anniversary with the third and final celebratory edition, the Datograph Handwerkskunst.  A finely executed watch that will instinctively appeal to Lange fans, the yellow gold Datograph Handwerkskunst is unsurprising given the occasion. And like past Handwerkskunst editions – this is the eighth watch in the Handwerkskunst series – it is relatively inaccessible: the watch is limited to just 25 pieces and substantially pricier than the regular production Datograph. The L951.8 in the Datograph Handwerkskunst Initial thoughts The original Datograph set the benchmark for a high-end, classical chronograph movement when it was launched in 1999. Exceptional both aesthetically and technically, then and now, the Datograph remains equally impressive 25 years later. The Datograph Handwerkskunst has all the familiar traits that defined the model for the past 25 years. On top of that, it has an artisanally decorated dial finished with tremblage. And more significantly, the movement gets a substantial extra dose of black polishing on all the chronograph levers, enhancing an already impressive chronograph calibre. Notably, the Datograph Handwerkskunst returns to the Datograph design of 1999. The tremblage dial has the neo-c...

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The Latest From Massena LAB is a Collaboration with an Entirely New Brand: Albishorn Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Aug 29, 2024

The Latest From Massena LAB is a Collaboration with an Entirely New Brand: Albishorn

Well, it wouldn’t be Geneva Watch Days without some wild new release from Massena LAB. Last year, the well-known design house partnered with Sylvain Pinaud to offer up a take on Pinaud’s modern marvel of a chronograph. This year, they’re looking back, joining with a brand new independent watchmaker making their debut at Geneva Watch Days, Albishorn, to give us something a little different. Albishorn, as I said, is a brand new indie brand with a unique focus - creating what they call “imaginary vintage” watches that bend watchmaking history to create something a little different. Their inaugural release, produced in partnership with Massena LAB, imagines a hypothetical late 1930s regatta chronograph (or regatta timer if you prefer), inspired by Le Bol d’Or Mirabaud - the world’s largest inland lake regatta, first run in 1939 on Lac Léman. A quick glance at the new Albishorn x Massena LAB Maxigraph will leave vintage heads with a clear sense of origin. The new watch clearly pulls design language from Rolex’s iconic Zerographe chronographs, the early predecessor to now iconic watches like the Daytona. The watch’s dial layout is also reminiscent of World War II multi-scale chronographs, and the mono-pusher layout certainly invokes a vintage charm. Obviously, this is not a genuine vintage watch, and certain details of the Maxigraph betray that. The execution feels quite modern, with sharply machined elements like the stark red pusher on the case flank, mu...

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