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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

RECOMMENDED READING: The Modern DOXA with a vintage movement Time+Tide
Doxa Jan 27, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: The Modern DOXA with a vintage movement

Last year, fans were delighted with the release of the DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph, a steel cushion-cased chronograph with an iconic DOXA orange dial. Based on a historical reference from 1969, the SUB 200 T.Graph is part of the brand’s revitalisation over recent years, which included the release of the same chronograph, except in solid … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The Modern DOXA with a vintage movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why is this Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar so awesome? Time+Tide
Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar Jan 26, 2020

Why is this Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar so awesome?

Editor’s note: Oftentimes, it seems as though the annual calendar complication is all too easily overlooked in the horological hierarchy of complications. GMTs, Chronographs – these are the most popular sorts of watches at the moment. But the annual calendar shouldn’t be discounted … because it’s wonderful. A while ago, we went HANDS-ON with Longines’ … ContinuedThe post Why is this Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar so awesome? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Blancpain Introduces Miniature, Skeleton, Form Movement Cal. 510 SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre has been Jan 21, 2020

Blancpain Introduces Miniature, Skeleton, Form Movement Cal. 510

Every year Blancpain (as well as its sister company Breguet) debuts a limited edition for Valentine’s Day. The concept is a bit kitschy – the watch is usually decked out in diamonds and hearts – but this year’s edition is a notably interesting watch. The Saint-Valentin 2020 is powered by a newly-developed form movement, the cal. 510, that is both rectangular and skeletonised. While traditionally Jaeger-LeCoultre has been the leader in form movements for ladies’ watches, most notably with the tiny cal. 101 and with other movements found in the Reverso as well as various Cartier Tanks, Blancpain has notched up a win in the segment with the cal. 510. The cal. 510 is relatively large for what is supposed to be a small movement for a ladies’ watch, measuring 12 mm wide and 25.2 mm long. But it is impressively constructed. It’s fitted with a good-sized barrel that gives it a 50-hour power reserve, which is lengthy for such a tiny movement. That is especially so considering the relatively large balance wheel that is free-sprung and equipped with hour regulating weights on its recessed rim. Additionally, the bridges are all open-worked, revealing the going train and barrel ratchet wheel. The result is also an obvious two-tone look, with the gilded wheels contrasted against the rhodium-plated bridges. And the components are finished carefully and completely, although it appears some of it is done by machine. The rest of the watch is arguably less interesting than ...

VIDEO: The History of Chopard L.U.C watchmaking Time+Tide
Chopard L.U.C watchmaking Chopard have Jan 20, 2020

VIDEO: The History of Chopard L.U.C watchmaking

Chopard have been an important firm in the Swiss luxury landscape since they were founded in 1860, but they weren’t always the house of haute horology that they are today. It wasn’t until just over a quarter of a century ago, in 1993, when Karl-Friedrich Scheufele made the decision to refocus the brand’s energies into … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The History of Chopard L.U.C watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Is this man the King of Cartier? Time+Tide
Cartier ? Harry Fane Jan 16, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Is this man the King of Cartier?

Harry Fane is one of the world’s foremost experts in Cartier, not just watches but the entire gamut of objets d’art that have been produced by the brand for more than 150 years. He cites his specific interest in the brand as being the golden age of the luxury maison from a creative standpoint, regarded … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Is this man the King of Cartier? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Shaken and stirred: 3 Omegas that got everyone talking in 2019 Time+Tide
Omega s Jan 13, 2020

Shaken and stirred: 3 Omegas that got everyone talking in 2019

It may surprise many reading this, but two out of the three Omega watches that really got the collective horological community talking in 2019 weren’t limited editions. In fact, the one limited edition watch that really struck a chord with enthusiasts, the Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary, was just a gorgeous looking timepiece, regardless of … ContinuedThe post Shaken and stirred: 3 Omegas that got everyone talking in 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What Sealed The Deal – Joseph’s Omega Speedmaster Limited Edition Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Limited Edition Editor’s Jan 12, 2020

What Sealed The Deal – Joseph’s Omega Speedmaster Limited Edition

Editor’s note: The hunt for a new watch is, for many watch enthusiasts, a huge part of the collecting experience. It isn’t enough to simply buy a watch, but a watch must be searched for long and hard, with its eventual discovery making the acquisition all the more exciting. This is the story of Joseph … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Joseph’s Omega Speedmaster Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Was this Zenith Manga cartoon homage the sleeper hit of 2019? Time+Tide
Zenith Manga cartoon homage Jan 11, 2020

Was this Zenith Manga cartoon homage the sleeper hit of 2019?

Lupin the Third, ever heard of it? We hadn’t either … that is, until Zenith made this, the A384 Revival Lupin The Third Edition. Turns out, Lupin The Third, or Lupin III as it’s otherwise known, is a Japanese manga cartoon created in 1967 by the doyen of the traditional Japanese art form, Monkey Punch. … ContinuedThe post Was this Zenith Manga cartoon homage the sleeper hit of 2019? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Chanel Monsieur Édition Noire SJX Watches
Chanel Monsieur Édition Noire Chanel’s Jan 11, 2020

Up Close: Chanel Monsieur Édition Noire

Chanel’s best known watch is unquestionably the all-ceramic J12, now in its refined and upgraded second generation. But its most interesting watch – from a mechanic and design perspective – is the Monsieur de Chanel. Originally offered only in precious metals, the watch was last year given a stylish makeover with the Monsieur Édition Noire that’s clad entirely in matte black ceramic. A jumping hour with retrograde minutes, the Édition Noire is powered by the Calibre 1, an original, integrated movement produced with help from independent watchmaker Romain Gauthier. But equally important is its design, which is discreetly brilliant. The watch has the sort of thoughtful aesthetic that pays attention to the whole but also the details – the typeface used on the dial was designed expressly for the watch – that is expected from the grand Parisian fashion house. In fact, the design is more coherent and informed than many watches created by traditional watchmakers. The Chanel elements of the watch are subtle, like the octagonal frame for the hours inspired by the Chanel No. 5 perfume bottle The long road Like other luxury fashion houses, Chanel has been working hard to make proper timepieces, watches that are well made and equipped with respectable movements. Earlier this year it took a 20% stake in movement maker Kenissi, in a joint venture with Tudor, which now produces calibres for the face-lifted J12. Kenissi is merely the latest investment in Chanel’s gradual...

Nick’s 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection Time+Tide
Jan 9, 2020

Nick’s 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection

Selecting the best watches of 2019 with an unlimited budget is one thing. But those of us who aren’t hip-hop stars or oil tycoons have to comply with the tiresome reality of financial constraints. Which leads us to the challenge of selecting a $20K Fantasy Watch Collection from 2019. Here’s my hit list that sneaks … ContinuedThe post Nick’s 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Great ‘Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania Time+Tide
Seiko Mania Great ‘Grams Sketching Jan 9, 2020

Great ‘Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania

Great ‘Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania It’s the start of a new decade, and as we hit the Roaring ’20s, there’s no sign that anyone is spending any less time on Instagram - especially if they love watches. With that in mind, I thought I’d do my best to put all of the … ContinuedThe post Great ‘Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Technicolour treats: The most colourful watches of 2019 Time+Tide
Casio ns Here are some Jan 7, 2020

Technicolour treats: The most colourful watches of 2019

Last year saw the release of a great many brilliant and colourful timepieces that aren’t shy of living on the brighter side of life. In particular, there were a fair few vibrant ladies watches that were unveiled, which are sure to liven up even the dullest of occasions. Here are some of the most colourful … ContinuedThe post Technicolour treats: The most colourful watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Weekend watch spotting with JR Time+Tide
Jan 5, 2020

Weekend watch spotting with JR

Weekends in Melbourne can mean several things: overpriced brunches with mates after a boozy night out on the town, hikes up the Dandenong Ranges’ unendingly popular “1000 steps”, day trips to the Peninsula Hot Springs and, if you’re a watch enthusiast, donning that special timepiece in your collection that wouldn’t dare see the light of … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch spotting with JR appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ice, ice, baby: Ronaldo just wore the most expensive Rolex ever made Time+Tide
Rolex ever made Making Jan 5, 2020

Ice, ice, baby: Ronaldo just wore the most expensive Rolex ever made

Making the right choice for your left wrist is never easy. But at least your options are generally curtailed by the size of your budget. That isn’t a problem for soccer deity Cristiano Ronaldo. That’s because the Juventus superstar is satanically rich. According to Forbes magazine, Ronaldo was soccer’s highest-earning player of the last decade, … ContinuedThe post Ice, ice, baby: Ronaldo just wore the most expensive Rolex ever made appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bid on this watch and help Australians fight our worst ever bushfire season Time+Tide
Jan 2, 2020

Bid on this watch and help Australians fight our worst ever bushfire season

Today is a first in our home state of Victoria. It is the first day ever that a state of disaster has been declared by our Premier, Daniel Andrews, ahead of an “unprecedented” fire threat over the coming days. I mentioned this in my Editor’s Letter. Since then, it’s gotten worse. In our state alone … ContinuedThe post Bid on this watch and help Australians fight our worst ever bushfire season appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

James’ top 5 favourite wristwatches of 2019 Time+Tide
Dec 28, 2019

James’ top 5 favourite wristwatches of 2019

Many people who I respect in this industry have opined that 2019 hasn’t been a particularly exciting or fruitful year for watch releases … and I couldn’t disagree more. This, the final year of the decade, has given birth to an absolute plethora of new and innovative timepieces that have captured the imagination of many … ContinuedThe post James’ top 5 favourite wristwatches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kees Engelbarts Tourbillon Organic Skeleton – Reprise Quill & Pad
Dec 14, 2019

Kees Engelbarts Tourbillon Organic Skeleton – Reprise

Extraordinary engraver Kees Engelbarts loves his skeletonized watches as they do very much showcase his art form. “I wanted to make another kind of skeleton watch,” he says about his creation called Tourbillon Organic Skeleton. “Most skeleton watches are, as you know, very symmetric. My plan was to make a skeleton watch without a drawing or plan before starting, by just taking away material from the base plate and bridges that is not needed.”

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater ‘Romantic Note’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Dec 13, 2019

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater ‘Romantic Note’

Vacheron Constantin’s annual collection of one-off and custom haute horlogerie watches was titled La Musique du Temps this year, being most made up of minute repeaters. They ranged from the strikingly simple to exceedingly ornate, with one of the prime examples of simplicity being the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin ‘Romantic Note’. Being one of two time-only minute repeaters in the collection – the other is ‘Dance of the Gemstones’ – the Romantic Note is essentially a variant of the regular-production Calibre 1731 repeater. It’s a large but elegantly proportioned watch, measuring 41mm by 8.5mm, so it sits wide but flat on the wrist. Though not overly large, the watch would be a bit more elegant if it were smaller. On a small wrist the wide-but-flat proportions can resemble a dinner plate. The smallest case size possible, given the diameter of the movement, is about 39mm, which would have given the watch a more tangible vintage feel. Design-wise the case is simple, which suits the watch well. The styling is taken from the Traditionnelle line, meaning it is relatively angular, with lots of flat surfaces when viewed from the front, which is deceptively simple. Much of the case detail lies in its profile – the case band has a single, lengthwise step, along with lugs inspired by the Maltese cross, the company’s logo. And the case back has a fluted edge as a design feature, being a snap-on, rather than screw-down back. Though the case design is fo...