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Results for Lug-to-Lug

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

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Lug-to-Lug Explained: The Most Important Watch Sizing Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 12, 2025

Lug-to-Lug Explained: The Most Important Watch Sizing

Many factors go into the purchase of a new watch -  from pricing to colorway to the choice of movement and materials - but perhaps none are more make-or-break for most consumers than sizing. Watches, of course, being three-dimensional objects, there are multiple areas of measurement to consider, though most watch brands tend to narrow it down to the two most basic: the diameter (or in the case of non-round watches, the dimensions) of the main case and the case’s overall thickness, i.e. how high it will rise on the wrist. However, neither of these accounts fully for how large or small the watch will wear on the wrist. For that, you will need the lug-to-lug measurement, sometimes referred to more simply as the “length,” with the diameter deemed in shorthand as the “width.” The lugs, sometimes called “horns,” are the protruding parts of the case that connect it to the bracelet or strap. The distance from the tip of the top lugs to the tip of the bottom lugs is perhaps the most important factor that affects not only how large the watch “wears” on the wrist but also how comfortable it is. (This measurement should not be confused with another occasionally listed stat, the “lug width.” The latter, which is perhaps most useful for those looking to swap out other straps or bracelets on their watch, refers to the distance between the lugs on each side of the case, i.e., the span in which the strap or bracelet fits inside them. If a watch has a lug width of...

WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Clasps that create fixed length longer than the lug-to-lug measurement of a case Time+Tide
Dec 2, 2021

WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Clasps that create fixed length longer than the lug-to-lug measurement of a case

Editor’s Note: Welcome to our new series, “What Tweaks My Tourb” in which Zach shares the watch-related irks and peeves that leave him exasperated. First up: size matters. Clasp size that is… To some this won’t be noticeable, as this is typically a symptom of a smaller wrist, but there is nothing worse than falling in love … ContinuedThe post WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Clasps that create fixed length longer than the lug-to-lug measurement of a case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing: The Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate (Now In 38mm) Hodinkee
Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate Now 3 days ago

Introducing: The Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate (Now In 38mm)

What We Know Today, Blancpain has downsized its ultra-thin Villeret Ultraplate dress watch, with new options in 38mm for greater wearability. The previous 40mm options of the 'Golden Hour' series, which I covered last October, remain, but the 38mm options are going to be much more appealing all around as proper dress watches. The case still remains incredibly thin, especially for a self-winding watch, at 8.35mm, but the 38mm downsizing now offers a short 43.35mm lug-to-lug measurement for small wrists and those who prefer the more traditional proportion of how a dress watch should look on the wrist. Here, four options are presented within these new measurements: three with stainless steel cases, and one in 18K red gold. The dial design continues the visual update introduced last October in the Villeret series, with simplified Roman numerals, the applied "JB" logo at 12 o'clock (standing for Jehan-Jacques Blancpain, who the brand credits as the founder), slim but still lumed leaf hands, and a skeletonized rotor. In stainless steel, there are three dial colors available. Salmon is a first for the Villeret collection, with a copper-hued dial paired with anthracite-coated 18K gold numerals. My favorite of the lineup, the Villeret Ultraplate featuring a warm champagne-hued dial with 18K yellow gold numerals set within a steel case with a green nubuck strap, will be offered as a boutique exclusive. More classic pairings of white gold numerals in a steel case and red gold numeral...

Hands-On: The Ressence Type 11 Hodinkee
Ressence Type 11 Jun 19, 2026

Hands-On: The Ressence Type 11

At a glance, the Ressence Type 11, which launched earlier this year at Watches and Wonders, might feel like every other Ressence. That's kind of the point. Distinct as it is within the collection, the Type 11 keeps the brand's visual language intact while changing what's underneath it. The biggest change is under the hood—it's the first Ressence to feature the brand's own integrated caliber, replacing the usual combo of an ETA base with Ressence's Orbital Convex System on top. Before we get to more on that, let's take a look at the Type 11's exterior. The 41mm by 11mm case, in grade 5 titanium, continues the trend seen in many of Ressence's recent releases toward more compact cases and feels like an evolution of the Type 9, in a sense. A fully polished, almost tonneau-shaped case features a short 45mm lug-to-lug measurement, while the lack of downturning of the lugs means the case still maintains quite a bit of presence on the wrist. On the Type 11, the lack of a bezel means the dial and crystal extend to the edges of the 41mm diameter. It's this kind of seamless visual effect that has lent models like the Type 1 and the Type 3 a distinctively futuristic look, and here it works very well with these lugs. Water resistance is bumped up to 3 ATM (as opposed to the typically "splash resistant" rating of its non-dive watches). On the dial side, we get the satellite display that Ressence is best known for, showing the hours, running seconds, and a power reserve indicator withi...

Introducing the Autodromo Group C Turbo Sport, the Brand’s First Ana-Digi Watch Worn & Wound
Jun 10, 2026

Introducing the Autodromo Group C Turbo Sport, the Brand’s First Ana-Digi Watch

Few innovations in automobile engines have been as impactful as the turbocharger, first brought to production cars in the 1960s and popularized in the United States largely thanks to the iconic turbodiesel 1978 Mercedes-Benz 300SD. With a telltale whistle accompanying that extra boost of power, the turbocharger soon became synonymous with motorsports and performance cars of the 1980s: the Audi Quatto’s breathy flutter, the 930 Porsche 911 Turbo’s heartpounding lag, and the Ford Sierra RS Cosworth’s European rally dominance all helped propel the decade into the “golden era” of turbocharged performance.  With their latest release, motorsport-inspired watchmakers Autodromo are bringing another homage to a period of automotive innovation, this time highlighting the Group C “prototype” class of sports cars from the 1980s, many of which featured bold (and sometimes dangerous) turbocharged power. The basis of this new collection is their already-successful Group C digital watch, initially released in 2023, and the new Turbo Sport models draw inspiration from the analog tachometers of turbocharged ‘80s motorsports legends to create an ani-digi design that straddles the classic and modern eras of automotive and horological design.  First, the dimensions: measuring in at 38.5mm in case diameter and 40mm lug-to-lug, the Group C Turbo Sport is compact, and sits fairly lightly on the wrist with a 11.4mm case thickness measurement. The case itself is anodized aluminum ...

Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 "Bumblebee" Hodinkee
Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Jun 3, 2026

Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 "Bumblebee"

What We Know There's a new Tudor chronograph in town, and guess what, it's smaller. After kicking off the format in 41mm back in 2017, Tudor has now downsized the brand's dive/drive chronograph design to a new 39mm case width. The new Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 "Bumblebee" sports a bright and vivid yellow dial with black counters, giving the new reference (79310N) a link to the preceding Pink and Flamingo Blue versions of the Black Bay Chronograph.  We can get to the dial in a moment, but for a smaller take on any Tudor, let's start with millimeters. The new Black Bay Chronograph 39 measures 39mm wide, 13.1mm thick, and 47mm lug-to-lug. Compare that to 41 x 14.4 x 49.9 of the current 41mm model, be it white, black, blue, black & gold, pink, or flamingo. Water resistance remains at 200m with screw-down crowns for the chronograph controls, and that bright yellow dial is framed by a fixed tachymeter scale rendered in black aluminum.  On to the dial, which is colored a bright and punchy yellow as a nod to the brand's "Tiger" chronographs of the 1990s. The markers and hands have black surrounds, and the water resistance is shown in red (as it is on the Black Bay Chrono 39's larger counterparts). Tudor also notes that the snowflake hands have been redesigned to aid in chronograph legibility. While I have yet to measure more accurately, if you compare the reach of the hour hand toward the 60 marker on the running seconds subdial, it appears shorter than in the 41mm models.  Tic...

Introducing: The Oris Lou Gehrig Limited Edition Hodinkee
Oris Lou Gehrig Limited Edition Jun 2, 2026

Introducing: The Oris Lou Gehrig Limited Edition

What We Know We're in the thick of baseball season, and Oris has pulled a doubleheader, of sorts. Yesterday brought us the new Hölstein edition, and today we're getting a new baseball-themed watch. Oris is the official watch sponsor of the New York Yankees, and this year, they're releasing a special watch to support one of the team's all-time legends, Lou Gehrig. The newest Big Crown Pointer Date is a special watch supporting the Lou and Eleanor Gehrig Family Foundation. The watch, in 40mm-by-12.2 mm stainless steel (with a 48.2mm lug-to-lug), is certainly inspired by the colors of the Yankees. The silver dial is surrounded by a black date ring with the "4" in blue (for Lou Gehrig's number), a blue minute track that matches the blue surrounding the hour markers. They've used a combination of Arabic numerals and stick hour markers for a sporty look. The movement is the Oris Caliber 754, with a 41-hour power reserve and automatic winding. It's delivered with a NATO strap in Yankee colors and a brown double-stitched strap that looks like a baseball glove. The caseback is engraved with a portrait of Lou Gehrig and the watch's number within the production total. There are 2130 pieces available, one for each of the consecutive games he played across 15 seasons, before his death in 1941 at the age of only 37. The retail price is CHF 2,400. Oris says that they will contribute to the work of The Lou and Eleanor Gehrig Family Foundation. What We Think The Pointer Date is probably O...

Introducing: The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co Hodinkee
Voutilainen Jun 2, 2026

Introducing: The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co

What We Know Today, Zenith introduces a new "Double Signed" program for its Calibre 135-powered G.F.J. collection, and its first entry in this series is a collaboration with a Japanese independent that might not require all that much introduction around these parts—Naoya Hida. The evolution of the G.F.J. line has not taken all that long, with its origins starting in 2022 with the Zenith Caliber 135 Observatoire Limited Edition, where ten Calibre 135 movements from the 50s were restored by Kari Voutilainen and introduced in watches done as a triple collaboration between Zenith, Voutilainen, and auction house Phillips. Just three years later, the Calibre 135 was revived as a modern caliber for a line called the G.F.J. (after Zenith's founder Georges Favre Jacot). In just a little over a year, we've seen three small runs of this watch introduced in different stone-dial and metal combinations—platinum with a lapis lazuli dial, tantalum with an onyx dial, and an upcoming yellow-gold GFJ with a bloodstone dial. In the meantime, this new Double Signed concept with Naoya Hida takes the G.F.J. in a very different visual direction. The hefty 39.15mm platinum case, with a thickness of 10.5mm and a compact lug-to-lug of 45.75mm, remains the same as other G.F.J. models. But that dial is unabashedly Naoya Hida, constructed out of solid silver with the distinctive hand engraving coming from the hand of master engraver Keisuke Kano, the man responsible for the hand engraving across al...

Introducing: The Aria Manufacture Chronometer From Formex Hodinkee
Formex What We Know Jun 1, 2026

Introducing: The Aria Manufacture Chronometer From Formex

What We Know The last time I covered something from Formex was over a year ago, when the brand released a highly finished, full-ceramic sports watch, complete with a ceramic bracelet and even a ceramic micro-adjust clasp, at an unrivaled price point. Today, the brand continues its upmarket trend with a brand-new watch design called the Aria. The Aria takes the form of a broad, integrated-bracelet design in full grade 5 titanium. The 40mm case feels broader than normal, thanks to an impressively thin case height of 6.9mm, even though the lug-to-lug is still quite reasonable at 45.45mm. While the silhouette gives a smooth look, there's quite a bit of contrasting finishing going on here, with brushing of the titanium case and bracelet links done entirely by hand. Though the styling certainly leans towards its identity as a bold sports watch, there's a lot of subtlety in the design, for example, with the individual bracelet links being slightly curved or the extra dimensionality of the layer of titanium peeking out from each link's milled-out spaces. The clasp includes Formex's proprietary micro-adjust system, which provides extra space on both sides of the bracelet by pulling or pushing each side. There are three dials for the Aria: "Selva Green," "Ardesia Grey," and "Denso Blue." All three have a certain muted look to the hue, matching the slightly darker nature of titanium. Dimensionality is achieved through contrasting indices in rose-gold coloring, set on applied raised p...

Introducing: Oris Celebrates Its Birthday With The 2026 Hölstein Edition Hodinkee
Oris Celebrates Jun 1, 2026

Introducing: Oris Celebrates Its Birthday With The 2026 Hölstein Edition

What We Know Every year on June 1, Oris celebrates the founding of its brand by releasing watches named after its hometown. This time, they're doing so with 250 numbered pieces based on the brand's new Artelier watch. The new version features small seconds, a 120-hour power reserve, the Caliber 401 movement, and an interesting retro-futuristic style. The new Oris Hölstein Edition 2026 has a stainless steel case measuring 39.5mm by 11.1mm, a 45.5mm lug-to-lug, and 30m water resistance. The dial is light grey with a subtle fumé effect from its shape, with a brighter subsidiary seconds dial in a mirror finish and a small red seconds hand. That silver, domed dial and claw-style hour markers make the watch feel a bit like a throwback to the late 1960s, but with modern specifications. The hour and minute hands have Super-LumiNova. As a bonus, the movement (while not COSC-certified) has an accuracy of 3/+5 seconds per day and is highly anti-magnetic. It's also automatic winding. The caseback uses a special laser treatment that engraves the Oris Bear, features the words "Hölstein Edition 2026," and produces a mirror-like, iridescent rainbow finish. To steal the description from one of the greatest haircuts known to man, it's business in the front and party in the back. The watch retails for CHF 3,800. What We Think Oris has been doing these limited editions, as far as I can tell, since 2020, and each one has been anything but traditional. Obviously, the Oris bear often plays a ...

Albishorn Introduces the New Type X-Graph Worn & Wound
Ming new features May 28, 2026

Albishorn Introduces the New Type X-Graph

Swiss brand Albishorn is known for their rather daring mission of recreating vintage watches that never existed; a goal that seems confusing until you see their wide swathe of “imaginary vintage” offerings, each of which draws from iconic timepieces of the past while forging their own new identities. It’s an exercise in parallel history with an added touch of impossibility, and it’s what makes Albishorn watches a category of their own. Carrying on that hypothetical tradition is the new Type X-Graph, which borrows elements from the legendary Type 20 design, while adding features that were simply not possible in the era that Type 20 pieces were being built.  Rather than taking a Type 20 silhouette and cramming new features in, Albishorn has taken to imagining what a predecessor “Type 10” may have looked like instead. Calling it a “missing link” in the history of the Type 20, the Type X-Graph is, of course, a pilot chronograph, with stylings from the late 1940s to pre-date the Type 20’s 1950s introduction. A monopusher military chronograph design, the Type X-Graph measures in at 39mm (a first hint of the modern innovations that remind us that it’s of an imagined history) in case diameter, and 20mm in case thickness. The lug width is a democratic 20mm, with the final lug-to-lug measurement coming in at a wearable 47.7mm, and kept slim by the 12mm thickness. But that’s just the boring stuff; the visuals and functionality of the X-Graph are what make it st...

Can’t Stop, Won’t Stop: The 2026 Ride to Conquer Cancer Collection Is Here Worn & Wound
Seiko VK64 mechaquartz again — May 21, 2026

Can’t Stop, Won’t Stop: The 2026 Ride to Conquer Cancer Collection Is Here

Last year, we launched our first Ride to Conquer Cancer collection alongside a two-day, 200km ride for the Princess Margaret Cancer Centre. The response was incredible. So, we’re doing it again. The 2026 Ride to Conquer Cancer is on, with Matt Smith-Johnson once again leading our “Can’t Stop, Won’t Stop” team into the saddle for two days and 200 kilometers. To back the team this year, we’ve expanded the project to three pieces — all designed to support the cause and look good doing it. The 2026 BOLDR Conquer Limited Edition Chronograph For year two, we wanted to push the design further while keeping what worked the first time around. Mechanically and dimensionally, the watch is unchanged from the 2025 release — same 41mm titanium Venture case, 12.5mm thick, 46mm lug-to-lug, 20mm lugs, same 200m of water resistance, screw-down crown, and flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Inside, the Seiko VK64 mechaquartz again — quartz accuracy with the snappy mechanical feel of a real chrono pusher. What’s new is the finish. The middle of the case is now done in a saturated pink Cerakote, leaving the rest of the watch’s technical foundation untouched. The watch was once again designed by longtime W&W; collaborator and team rider Matt Smith-Johnson, who explained his thinking: “The Princess Margaret has been using the slogan ‘Carry The Fire’ for the last couple of years. To me, that’s the passion for creating change in the world. As with our t...

Introducing: The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light Hodinkee
Omega s next Bond Seamaster May 21, 2026

Introducing: The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light

What We Know Today marks the introduction of Omega's next Bond Seamaster. Don't worry, you haven't missed an announcement of Daniel Craig's successor—this new Seamaster Chronograph is an homage to… a video game. Yes, that's right. The commercial success of Omega's involvement in the James Bond franchise has been well documented, so it seems that a line of watches rooted in its connection to a history of fantasy and fiction through film would naturally extend to adjacent properties. This is the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light, a remix of the brand's large diving chronograph that appears in the upcoming 007 First Light video game. Interestingly, this is the first Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph in the James Bond universe—chronographs have made appearances on Bond in the movies, but this is the first from the Bond-tied line-up since the partnership kicked off in 1995 with GoldenEye. Given that it's largely identical to the current Seamaster 300M Chronographs out there, it should feel quite familiar, despite this version's inspiration tracking back to 3D-rendered models. Coming in at a very large 44mm diameter, 17.2mm height, and 52.8mm lug-to-lug, the 300 meter diver comes in steel with plenty of contrasting black zirconium-oxide ceramic, thanks to the white enamel-filled bezel insert, the chronograph pushers, and the trademark glossy ceramic wave-engraved dial of the modern Seamaster 300M. One of Omega's interesting quirks that I've always loved...

Atelier Wen Introduces the Perception V3 in a Trio of Dial Colors Worn & Wound
Atelier Wen Introduces May 19, 2026

Atelier Wen Introduces the Perception V3 in a Trio of Dial Colors

In their stated mission to prove that Chinese craftsmanship and artisanship can be worthy of attention usually reserved for European brands, French-Chinese watchmakers Atelier Wen have consistently put out intriguing pieces since their debut in 2017. Next on that growing list is the Perception V3, which builds on the reputation for hand-crafted horology that came with the original Perception line in 2022. The new V3 model takes elements of the V1 and V2 watches, particularly the hand-turned guilloché́ dials by renowned artisan Cheng Yucai, and aims to perfect the mechanics and aesthetics of the lineup. Three models are on offer, with two colorways returning from previous iterationts—the Piāo in ice-blue and Xiá in salmon—while a new variant, Yún in bamboo green, joins the pack. The three colors are both vibrant and easy on the eyes, favoring a more muted hue that pairs well with the pagoda-inspired lines of the 904L stainless steel of the case and bracelet.  Speaking of the case, it measures in at 40mm in diameter and 47mm lug-to-lug, the same dimensions as the V2, with the exception of the now-thinner 10.4mm case height. A knurled crown and full exhibition caseback give the V3 watches 100 meters of water resistance. The case additionally features more directional brushing and mirror polishing than previous iterations, while the Yún model additionally steps up the craftsmanship with micro-frosting in place of the brushed surfaces. The dials, though, are where At...

Introducing: The Longines Legend Diver 59 Offers A More Rugged Look In A Larger Size Hodinkee
Longines Legend Diver 59 Offers May 18, 2026

Introducing: The Longines Legend Diver 59 Offers A More Rugged Look In A Larger Size

What We Know For collectors, the Longines Legend Diver seemingly hit a sweet spot in sizing during its 39mm refresh back in 2023. But, as with many things in life, you can't please 'em all with just one version. So today's new Legend Diver 59 offers a much larger interpretation of the brand's tribute to its 1959 design, in a 42mm model that will surely make a lot of larger wrists happy. It's not the brand's only 42mm Legend Diver, technically speaking, since some older models are still listed in the catalog. But it's the first larger size to have come out since that 2023 refresh. The 42mm case has a thickness of 12.85mm and a lug-to-lug measurement of 50.1mm. As customary with the Legend Divers, two crowns sit on the right side of the case, with the one at two o'clock for rotating the internal bezel and the one at four o'clock to wind and set the time. What this new Legend Diver 59 offers as a new design touch comes in the dial. Whereas the current generation Legend Divers sport glossy lacquer dials, this Legend Diver 59 has a matte black grained-texture dial and internal bezel for a more rugged look. Adding to that aesthetic are new sandblasted hands and indices, which are then paired with three-dimensional Super-LumiNova accents in an old radium color. The Legend Diver 59 is COSC-certified, thanks to the ETA-manufactured but exclusive-to-Longines automatic caliber L888.6. It's a distinctly modern caliber, featuring a silicon balance spring and a power reserve of 72 hours...

Introducing: The Armoury And Naoya Hida & Co. Type 4A-2 "Floating Feathers" Hodinkee
Naoya Hida May 7, 2026

Introducing: The Armoury And Naoya Hida & Co. Type 4A-2 "Floating Feathers"

What We Know Usually, we only get one round of Naoya Hida & Co. releases each year, as the company manufactures so few watches per year (though that number is increasing) that one round of releases of 10+ models with around 10 watches per model per year is about the maximum. So imagine my surprise when we got a press release about a new collaboration between Hida-san and his retailer, The Armoury, to be released after the initial wave of releases. They've collaborated before (their "Lettercutter" is one of Hida's most beloved watches). This new release, the Type 4A-2 "Floating Feathers," is by far the most unusual and imaginative Naoya Hida watch yet. The watch uses a high-polish stainless steel Type 4 case (36mm by 42.9mm lug-to-lug, 11mm thick) with a central seconds hand, keeping the dial free for artistic expression. Mark Cho, co-founder of The Armoury, and designer Elliot Hammer say that they were inspired by decorative ornithological dials, botanical motifs, and nature scenes.  As ornithology is the study of birds, my thought immediately went to "singing bird boxes," but hey, I didn't make the watch, so no one asked me. Hammer, who travels to Japan often, said he was taken by their attention to space and timelessness, and in the press release says, "if there are feathers, there must have also once been a bird." Rationale for the design aside, Naoya Hida & Co. has the benefit of a talented in-house engraver, Keisuke Kano, and used the bead-blasted Argentium silver di...

Introducing: Naoya Hida & Co.'s 2026 Slate Of Releases, Including Two Brand-New Models And Their First Porcelain Dial Hodinkee
Naoya Hida Apr 30, 2026

Introducing: Naoya Hida & Co.'s 2026 Slate Of Releases, Including Two Brand-New Models And Their First Porcelain Dial

What We Know It's spring, which means it's time for Naoya Hida's annual trunk show, where the brand tours the world to showcase its new watches. If you're in town for one of their few stops (like next week in New York), you can treat it like any tailor's trunk show and find out if the watch is a good fit. And every year, Hida-san and his team unveil a few new styles. In fact, you can see the ten releases on offer below. Some are familiar; others have small tweaks (the Type1 is now the Type1E because of the new domed crystal that makes it 10.9mm). But there are three watches that are so distinctly new that it's worth talking about. Let's go in numerical order, starting with a watch that is essentially just a dial revision, but it's a dramatic one at that. The Type2 series has been around for six years now as the brand's central seconds movement, followed by revisions in 2021 and then the coveted collaboration with The Armoury in 2022, called "The Lettercutter." I know a lot of people fought to get that piece, but there's a new Type2C-2 that's going to get some attention. While a big draw for Naoya Hida is the hand-engraved German or Argentium silver dials (in fact, that's where a lot of the price goes), they've pivoted here to their first-ever porcelain dial. The watch, powered by a Cal. 3020CS manually-wound movement with 45-hour power reserve and 4Hz beat rate, is cased in 37mm by 11.4mm stainless steel with a 44.8mm lug-to-lug. The glass is a curved sapphire crystal with...

Introducing: The Bradley Taylor Ardea Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Level II service certification Apr 29, 2026

Introducing: The Bradley Taylor Ardea

What We Know Bradley Taylor, a Canadian independent watchmaker working out of a 1,000-square-foot workshop in North Vancouver, has released the Ardea, his third watch and first with an in-house movement. Taylor, a rising talent in the space, trained in Le Locle under Henrik Korpela, earned a Patek Philippe Level II service certification in Geneva, and produced two sold-out series before beginning work on the Ardea in late 2023. The Ardea is offered in stainless steel or platinum 950 and measures 37.8mm in diameter with a 46.4mm lug-to-lug and a thickness of 10.9mm, including the crystals. The sapphire caseback is very slightly domed for wrist comfort, and the watch is rated to 5 ATM.  The dial is 925 sterling silver, engine-turned on a rose engine that Taylor estimates is roughly 120 years old, and he restored it over three months. The pattern is a 36-scallop rosette with a progressive phase shift between each concentric pass, producing a characterful swirling texture. After the engraving, the dial is depletion-gilded, a silversmithing process that involves repeated heating and acid treatment until the dial's surface is pure silver. It is then sealed with Zapon lacquer. The text and markings are pad-printed on a Tampoprint machine that Taylor also restored himself. The applied numerals are machined from solid platinum and hand-polished to a spherical shape. The dial lettering and wordmark were designed by Ian Brignell, a Toronto typographer whose work includes the Paramou...

Introducing: The Bulova Lunar Pilot Black Hole [Live Pics] Hodinkee
Bulova Lunar Pilot Black Hole Apr 27, 2026

Introducing: The Bulova Lunar Pilot Black Hole [Live Pics]

What We Know Bulova nerds, rejoice! Finally, after years and years of customers and collectors pleading, the Lunar Pilot is now available in a smaller size. Now, if you were hoping that you'd be able to run out and buy the classic Lunar Pilot design just downsized a bit, sadly, you're not in luck for now. But those looking for a twist on the original may be intrigued, as Bulova introduces the smaller case size in a new, blacked-out design called the Lunar Pilot Black Hole. The new case maintains the cushion-cased silhouette of the original, but is slimmed down from the original 43.5mm diameter to 41mm. The case thickness is 13.05mm, and the lug-to-lug is 48mm. The matte finish of the case and bracelet is achieved through sandblasting and PVD coating, lending it a stealthy look with a darkness that permeates the entire design. Parts like the crown, chronograph pushers, and top bezel ring are in glossy black PVD. The dial also leans completely monochromatic, with grey accents on the sandblasted hands and applied hour markers, and grey printing of the minute track, Bulova logo, and sundial markings. The base of the dial itself is coated in Musou black paint, which theoretically absorbs 99.4% of light for a truly black look. A nice touch is the grey Super-LumiNova on the indices and hands that glow blue in the dark. Sitting underneath the tall sapphire crystal is an internal tachymeter in relief, adding an extra layer of dimensionality to the dial. While the 60-minute counter ...

Venezianico Introduces the Arsenale Calendario Worn & Wound
Venezianico Introduces Apr 20, 2026

Venezianico Introduces the Arsenale Calendario

Fresh off the nonstop excitement of Watches & Wonders, it’s easy to ignore any releases that occur outside of the Geneva city limits. The spring is still young, though, and there are still plenty of exciting launches to go in 2026. In that vein, Italian brand Venezianico is doubling down on their mission of Italian-made mechanical timepieces with the new Arsenale Calendario duo, inspired by the Arsenale di Venezia, the world’s oldest shipyard. The Arsenale collection isn’t brand new: the Meteorite model touched on space as a theme, and the Bizantino and Sumi-e watches took more decorative, artistic approaches. The Calendario, though, draws from what Venezianico calls “the architecture of time”. Basically, it adds new complications-a complete calendar, a power-reserve indicator, and a day-night indicator-to emphasize the passing of time in a material way.  In terms of basic dimensions, the Calendario sits within a 316L stainless steel case with a satin finish, and measures in at 40mm in diameter and 44mm lug-to-lug. It’s not exactly thin at 9.6mm of thickness, and the double-domed sapphire adds another 1.4mm on the top, giving it a solid presence despite the dress watch-adjacent design. A knurled stainless steel bezel and screw-down crown at 3 o’clock add texture to the case, and further emphasize the depth of the sunburst dial, which is available in two colorways: burgundy red and blue. These are not subtle shades, and the concentric texture of the dial ...

Watches & Wonders: Tudor Surprises with the Oddly Appealing Monarch Worn & Wound
Tudor Surprises Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Tudor Surprises with the Oddly Appealing Monarch

Tudor is at its best when they surprise. Sure, there have been some controversial pieces over the years, like the North Flag and P01 (though I’d argue they were both very successful as attention grabbers), but watches like the BB54, BB58 925, and even FXD took us off guard when they first dropped. This year, Tudor has followed suit with the Monarch, a watch that took us off guard in the press release but impressed in person. Before getting to the watch, it was made clear to us that although this year marks 100 years of the brand, they aren’t throwing a big celebration for themselves, nor did they release a watch specifically dedicated to the centennial anniversary. The Monarch, which is a spiritual recreation or tribute to an early 20th-century Tudor model, is meant to acknowledge said birthday. So, basically, don’t call it an anniversary watch, just an anniversary-like watch. Ok, with that out of the way, let’s take a look at this surprisingly cool new model. Measuring 39mm in diameter, 11.9mm thick, and, I’m estimating, as this dimension was not provided, in the neighborhood of 48mm lug-to-lug, so basically BB58 sized, the Monarch, despite some vintage cues, looked and felt pleasantly modern on the wrist. The case, made of stainless steel, was quite different from others in the Tudor lineup. It had hooded, aggressively chamfered lugs, with a sharply faceted drop-off. There were also flat segments on either side of the case, emphasizing a geometric overall shape...

Seiko Adds New References Inspired by the Tokyo Skyline to their Expanding King Seiko Line Worn & Wound
Seiko Adds New References Inspired Mar 23, 2026

Seiko Adds New References Inspired by the Tokyo Skyline to their Expanding King Seiko Line

Some cityscapes have more iconic skylines than others, but it’s hard to argue that Tokyo’s massive metropolitan sprawl hasn’t inspired decades of media, art, and yes, watches. Cyberpunk anime and JRPGs aside, it’s one of the most recognizable urban landscapes in the world, and its neon-drenched shopping districts, blend of modernist and classical architecture, and towering skyscrapers make an excellent canvas. Enter Seiko’s new King Seiko VANAC models, taking design inspiration directly from Tokyo’s skyline, and introducing three new dial colors.  Each of the new VANAC models is housed in a sporty 41mm case (45.1mm lug-to-lug) with an integrated bracelet. It’s a familiar shape for King Seiko models, but it maintains that classy, versatile outline without appearing too outdated. It’s an almost ‘70s or ‘80s look, despite the larger, modern dimensions, and suits the dial design well; the indices and squared-off hands have an Art Deco look, which pairs nicely with the angular screw-down crown and geometric lines of the case. The seconds hand in particular, finished in silver to match the stainless steel case, has a delicate, skeleton “v” shape as a counterweight at the top end, which adds a flair of elegance to the design. A date window at 3 o’clock helps the dial maintain a balanced look, and the layered radial pattern of the minute track, and horizontal line texture of the dial does bring to mind the organized chaos of Tokyo’s “vast horizon”....

Serica Introduces the 5330 Dive Chronometer Worn & Wound
Serica Introduces Mar 13, 2026

Serica Introduces the 5330 Dive Chronometer

One of watchmaking’s simplest but most iconic complications, the date window, is the source of much admiration, and yes, a little bit of ire. One of the biggest points of contention on any inclusion of a date window is the balancing of it on the dial; after all, how do you place it to not ruin the symmetry (or asymmetry) of a carefully-crafted design? With their new Ref. 5330 Dive Chronometer, Serica has chosen a sleek solution for their first date window inclusion: nestle it at 3 o’clock, taking the place of the marker, and give it a crisp red accent to stand out. Sure, it’s not necessarily revolutionary, but it adds a sophisticated touch to an already clean dial. The core tenets of the 5330’s design carry over from other models in Serica’s Dive Chronometer lineup, with circular hour markers and a double graduation bezel being the most recognizable, and a 39mm 316L stainless steel case housing an identical SoProd M100 Swiss automatic movement. The matte black dial and anthracite-grey outer bezel ring contrast with the steel of the inner bezel and case, and the cream Super-LumiNova on the hands and hour markers. Similarly, the cream date window and red numeral add both a sense of cohesion and a highly legible flash of color to give the dial an extra layer of aesthetic complication. It’s certainly a welcome addition visually, and keeps the design from feeling too austere.  At 12.2mm in thickness and 46.5mm lug-to-lug, the 5330 is sized well for most wrists, and...