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Deployant
Dear Readers, we wish you a Very Blessed and Merry Christmas! From all of us at Deployant. We are taking the day off today, and will be back tomorrow. May the joy of the Christ Child be in your heart this Christmas and always, and bring you good cheer and great health.
Quill & Pad
The 1985 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Charlie? Ken Gargett loved it. Score? 98/100 if you are playing the Grinch; 99/100 if you’d rather be Santa. Ken thinks that Charles Heidsieck should be a must for everyone’s cellar. Find out why plus what's up with Champagne Charlie now.
Hodinkee
We wondered what John Reardon would do next. Now we know.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
If you miss the cut-off for the holiday these picks aren't a bad way to spend a gift card on something that you'll actually want.
Quill & Pad
In the real world, some complications are pretty useless. And that's not saying they aren’t cool. Here Joshua Munchow runs through his top 5 most useless complications and why they are simultaneously useless and cool.
Quill & Pad
Extraordinary engraver Kees Engelbarts loves his skeletonized watches as they do very much showcase his art form. “I wanted to make another kind of skeleton watch,” he says about his creation called Tourbillon Organic Skeleton. “Most skeleton watches are, as you know, very symmetric. My plan was to make a skeleton watch without a drawing or plan before starting, by just taking away material from the base plate and bridges that is not needed.”
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin’s annual collection of one-off and custom haute horlogerie watches was titled La Musique du Temps this year, being most made up of minute repeaters. They ranged from the strikingly simple to exceedingly ornate, with one of the prime examples of simplicity being the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin ‘Romantic Note’. Being one of two time-only minute repeaters in the collection – the other is ‘Dance of the Gemstones’ – the Romantic Note is essentially a variant of the regular-production Calibre 1731 repeater. It’s a large but elegantly proportioned watch, measuring 41mm by 8.5mm, so it sits wide but flat on the wrist. Though not overly large, the watch would be a bit more elegant if it were smaller. On a small wrist the wide-but-flat proportions can resemble a dinner plate. The smallest case size possible, given the diameter of the movement, is about 39mm, which would have given the watch a more tangible vintage feel. Design-wise the case is simple, which suits the watch well. The styling is taken from the Traditionnelle line, meaning it is relatively angular, with lots of flat surfaces when viewed from the front, which is deceptively simple. Much of the case detail lies in its profile – the case band has a single, lengthwise step, along with lugs inspired by the Maltese cross, the company’s logo. And the case back has a fluted edge as a design feature, being a snap-on, rather than screw-down back. Though the case design is fo...
Deployant
Greubel Forsey enters the luxury sports watch genre with the new GMT Sport. The case is in Ti, and is curved in multi dimensions. Assertive. Bold. Unique.
Quill & Pad
‘F.P. Journe Invenit et Fecit’ by Jean-Pierre Grosz narrates the story of François-Paul Journe, one of the most successful independent watchmakers of our time. This book outlines both Journe’s incredible and – dare I say – courageous career and delves into his personal life, which wasn’t always rosy and light. A very atypical career that deserves the attention it receives with this book, Elizabeth finds it is a must-read.
Time+Tide
As promised in the article on Robert De Niro and his watches in film, we are following up with watches worn by Al Pacino. Pacino is best known for his roles as Detective Vincent Hanna in Heat, Cuban gangster Tony Montana in Scarface, Lieutenant Colonel Frank Slade in Scent of a Woman, and Mafia don Michael Corleone … ContinuedThe post Watches worn by Al Pacino on the big screen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A cross-section of old-school watch design and modern-day watchmaking ability.
Time+Tide
2019 is the year of the blue dial. Doesn’t matter if it’s a steel sports watch, solid gold dress watch or a one-off pièce unique – if you want your wrist flex to be as en vogue as a pair of R.M. Williams and beige chinos, a timepiece with a blue dial is the only … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10436 White Dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A high-functioning do-it-all that glows in rose gold. The watch, not me.
Quill & Pad
If there is one complicated element that has been in a whirlwind (pun intended) of developments, it has been the tourbillon. And while tourbillons are still fairly expensive, you don't have to spend $100,000 anymore, as many brands now have great offerings for even a third of that amount.
Time+Tide
Here’s a question for you: how do you modernise something as traditional as a time-only dress watch? Do you utilise new-age materials? Or maybe blow-out the proportions of the timepiece? It’s a conundrum that Baume & Mercier faced with their understated range of Baume & Mercier Classima wristwatches. Their solution was to give owners the … ContinuedThe post When classicism meets contemporary: The Baume & Mercier Classima appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
One of the greatest things about Longines is their history - the Swiss marque was established almost two centuries ago, way back in 1832. This heritage gives the brand an advantage, and it gives the Longines wearer an edge, too. The depth and versatility of Longines timepieces is utterly expansive – and the back catalogue is a … ContinuedThe post 3 Longines for under $5K on their online store that represent value propositions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Believe it or not, somehow there are just 23 short days left until Christmas, and if you haven’t bought your presents yet … you’re in a bit of strife. Thankfully, however, if that special someone in your life is fond of a timepiece or two, then Longines has got you covered with a great many … ContinuedThe post Santa’s little helpers: 3 Longines tool watches for the festive season appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
As Martin Green piloted the McLaren 720S Spider the first few meters through the busy streets of Munich, he was instantly surprised. Not about its powerful engine, which puts out an impressive 710 bhp, or the retractable hardtop and great-sounding engine notes, but at the ease with which this car drives at low speeds. And that's not all. Find out what else it can do here.
Time+Tide
Rado’s Captain Cook Automatic dive watch collection is downright impressive for anyone in the market for a fit-for-purpose dive watch on a budget. What’s more, it’s got a great amount of heritage - Rado has actually used the Captain Cook moniker since 1962. But these modern iterations aren’t resting on the laurels of their forefathers, they’re … ContinuedThe post Which Rado Captain Cook Automatic is right for you? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
In honor of the fourth edition of Dubai Watch Week 2019, several watch brands have issued limited edition timepieces. So without further ado, here we highlight four of the colorful limited editions seen at DWW 2019.
Time+Tide
In a city as affluent as Dubai, it isn’t a surprise to see some pretty wild watches come out to play at the city’s own Dubai Watch Week. While there are some of the usual suspects to be seen, such as Rolex and Patek Philippe, Dubai also showed its sophisticated side with some less common … ContinuedThe post WATCHSPOTTING: At Dubai Watch Week 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
As the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) is gearing up for its 20th anniversary next year – and a week after the 2019 winners were announced – the foundation that administers the industry awards has announced the Academy. This adds an additional layer of nominations and votes to the awards to better encompass a wider swathe of the watch business. Slated to be several hundred strong – 300 was the number mooted – the Academy will be composed of individuals from across the watch industry, from brands to the media to retailers. The large size of the Academy and its diversity is to ensure the GPHG awards represent the industry’s views as much as possible. The GPHG trophy takes the form of a gilded hand The Academy will be able to nominate watches for the awards – in past years only brands could propose their own watches – as well as vote in the earlier shortlisting process. The final vote and physical evaluation of the shortlisted candidates will then be undertaken by a 30-member jury meeting in Geneva, which is similar to the voting process today. The first members of the Academy will be announced in early 2020. Subsequently, new members can join the Academy when nominated by existing members.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
This is all your fault. Due to popular demand, the snobs are extending their Q&A; sesh to an entirely new and dedicated episode. Hopefully you sick, horological voyeurs will finally be satisfied.
Time+Tide
We’ve all heard of a wrist flex, but what about an invitation flex … is that a thing? Well, if it wasn’t before, it is now, because hip hop heavyweight, music producer and entrepreneur Jay-Z has gone and sent out Rolex’s eponymous Daytona as VIP invitation gifts to his inaugural Shawn Carter Foundation Gala. In … ContinuedThe post #JayDay: Jay-Z just used a bunch of solid gold Rolex Daytonas as VIP invitations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Revolution takes a journey down the rich lineage of the present day Longines Skin Diver.
Time+Tide
Summer is now thankfully just around the corner, which means we can ditch the black on black garb and finally bring some colour back into our lives and, more importantly, onto our wrists. And luckily, we’re now stocking DOXA’s entire collection of colourful timepieces, including the SUB 200, SUB 300T and SUB 1500T. These watches … ContinuedThe post 5 fresh summer flavours for a DOXA summer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Happening in just over a week, the Phillips Hong Kong watch auction is a 321-lot event spread over two days. Notably, the first session is an evening sale titled First, made up of 52 watches consigned by their original owners. The offerings in First, as well as the main sale the next day, are diverse array ranging from a possibly unique Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon with a black dial, and a wonderfully elegant Vacheron Constantin minute repeater (pictured above) – both consigned by the first owners no less – to vintage sports Rolex watches and Omega Speedmasters. The Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002G Another original owner Patek Philippe grand complication, the ref. 5033P Here we cover some of the complicated watch highlights, while other vintage and sports watches will be featured in a subsequent article. The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. First, lot 833 – Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph One of the best values in the segment of perpetual calendar chronographs is a pre-owned Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. This example is in platinum, with a largish 43mm case that is suited to today’s taste for larger watches. The layout is traditional for a perpetual calendar chronograph, though the calendar windows are slightly small relative to the size of the dial. But this has a decorative flourish few of its peers have: the moon phase is a hand-engraved disc of white gold that features a tiny...
Quill & Pad
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic is the recent winner of the Chronograph category at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève and current world record holder for the thinnest mechanical chronograph. Joshua Munchow thinks that as such the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT deserves closer inspection to discover just how it achieved this feat while looking cool in the process.
SJX Watches
After the 2017 launch of the Orion 38 “De Stijl” – one of the most unusual and intriguing Nomos watches to date – Dutch retailer Ace Jewelers has unveiled the fruit of its third collaboration, the Zürich Weltzeit Amsterdam. Limited to just 25 pieces, the watch is a variation of the Nomos travel watch, distinguished by a handful of distinct but restrained tweaks. Previously available only with a blue or white dial, the Amsterdam edition features white indices and text, along with red accents on a stark, matte black dial. Appreciably, its stark, no-nonsense colour palette comes at a time when Nomos is increasingly relying on pastel-coloured dials. The watch features several nods to the Dutch city, with “Amsterdam” replacing Berlin on the city ring and highlighted in red, while home time is indicated at three o’clock by the flag of Ace Jeweler’s hometown of Amsterdam, made up of three Saint Andrew’s crosses. The rest of the watch is otherwise identical to the standard version. Its steel case measures 39.9mm wide and 10.85mm high, featuring angled, elongated lugs that are similar to the Orion’s and rather distinct from all the other collections. All surfaces of the case are polished, offering a great contrast to the matte dial. A pusher at two o’clock advances the local time display in one-hour steps while a recessed pusher at eight o’clock sets the home time. Visible through the sapphire case back, the watch is powered by the in-house automatic DUW 5...
SJX Watches
Returning for the fifth time, Dubai Watch Week (DWW) will take place from November 20-24, once again at the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC), a sprawling complex of offices, shops, restaurants, and three hotels, which is entirely self contained, making a visit to DWW easy to plan. As is tradition, the event includes exhibitions, watchmaking classes, and talks. Amongst the speakers will be Masayuki Hirota, an eminent Japanese watch journalist and the editor of Chronos Japan, who will be speaking about Grand Seiko. And DWW once again includes the Horology Forum, a series of panel discussions that take place daily. Panellists this year include journalists like Ariel Adams of aBlogtoWatch, watchmakers like Philippe Dufour and Stephen Forsey; brand chiefs including Karl-Friedrich Scheufele of Chopard, Jean-Claude Biver of LVMH, and Benoit Minitiens of Ressence; as well as watch collectors like San Francisco-based Jeffrey Kingston, and Aldis Hodge, an American actor who is also a jury member of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve. And naturally the speakers’ roster also includes prominent local personalities, including collector Hamdan Al Hudaidi and Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi, chief commercial officer of Seddiqi Holding, the parent company of DWW’s organiser. A panel session at DWW 2018 And some newcomers Rolex is taking part for the first time in DWW, and bringing along with it the Oyster Perpetual Submariner exhibition, a series of displays within a sh...
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