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Swiss Made

Legally regulated country-of-origin mark. Since 2017 requires at least 60% Swiss production cost, Swiss movement, Swiss development, and Swiss assembly and inspection.
Exhibition: Exquisite Pocket Watches in Singapore SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet grand complication Sep 16, 2021

Exhibition: Exquisite Pocket Watches in Singapore

A vintage watch dealer based in Singapore, 2ToneVintage is staging an exhibition that goes down a road less travelled in modern watch collecting – vintage pocket watches instead of the usual fare of wristwatches. The exhibition is open to the public from now till September 30, 2021, but registration is required due to venue capacity limits. Titled The Beginning, the show is made up of several dozen impressive specimens that represent the diversity of pocket watches, ranging from an Ilbery enamel for the Chinese market to a one-off Audemars Piguet grand complication to a Patek Philippe world time with a cloisonné dial. A timeline on the walls of the exhibition charts the development of watchmaking Most of the watches on show belong to Ali Nael, an oil trader who switched careers to found 2ToneVintage. Consequently, a good portion of the exhibition reflects his taste in timepieces – many of the timepieces are mid 20th century watches with elegant two-tone dials in champagne or pink gold. Examples from the early- to mid-20th century dominate the exhibition, with Patek Philippe being the most numerous. The watches largely fall into two categories: simple, time-only watches with delicate details or enamelling, and the highly complicated. Time-only The time-only examples include the Patek Philippe ref. 650 “Flying Saucer” – named after its wide, flat bezel – from 1937 that has a handsome. two-tone contrasting dial. And standing out against the classical style of ...

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Geneva Watch Days 2021 Round Table Discussion: What We Liked, What We Didn’t Like, And What We’d Buy From The Watches Presented At This Relaxed, Sunshine-Filled Fair Quill & Pad
Sep 12, 2021

Geneva Watch Days 2021 Round Table Discussion: What We Liked, What We Didn’t Like, And What We’d Buy From The Watches Presented At This Relaxed, Sunshine-Filled Fair

The 2021 edition of Geneva Watch Days was by most measures a successful event as the watch world slowly gets back to a modicum of normality. The presentations proved exciting as we could finally handle real watches instead of looking at them on a screen. We saw old friends, made new ones, and remembered why we love spending time talking watches. Here are our personal picks for "best of" in a number of categories. What were yours?

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Auction Watch: Unique Patek Philippe Ref. 5070/1P – Black Dial on Bracelet SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5070/1P – Black Sep 12, 2021

Auction Watch: Unique Patek Philippe Ref. 5070/1P – Black Dial on Bracelet

Distinctive with its wide, flat bezel, the ref. 5070 was Patek Philippe’s last chronograph powered by the CH27-70 movement derived from the Lemania 2310. At 42 mm in diameter, the ref. 5070 was the largest high-end chronograph on the market at its launch in 1998. Amongst the four versions of the ref. 5070 – in rose, yellow, or white gold as well as platinum – the platinum version is the rarest. Around 250 were made according to Sotheby’s, with the standard guise for the platinum case being being a metallic, muted-blue dial. Produced at the “special request of an important client” in 2012, the  ref. 5070/1P-010 has a black dial, while preserving the standard dial design with its large, applied Arabic numerals in white gold. While the standard model is has the model reference 5070P, this example has the suffix “/1P”, indicating the monochromatic dial is matched by a platinum “brick” bracelet, an uncommon option only available via special order. Importantly, both the black dial and bracelet are mentioned on the certificate, which indicates the watch was sold at the Patek Philippe Salon in Geneva. The combination of a platinum case, black dial, and matching bracelet – familiar and simple but endlessly striking – has been seen before on other chronograph models, including a ref. 5004P that sold at Christie’s in 2019. But this is the first ref. 5070P in this livery to be offered publicly. Estimated at HK$4-8 million, or US$500,000-1 million, the uniq...

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The return of a dark legend, with the lumelicious TAG Heuer Aquaracer Night Diver Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Night Diver Sep 12, 2021

The return of a dark legend, with the lumelicious TAG Heuer Aquaracer Night Diver

For many people, a TAG Heuer is their first good mechanical Swiss watch. While some swear allegiance to the classic Carrera, personally I love the motor-racing vibes of their vintage-inspired references and, yes, I do feel a bit more like Steve McQueen when I wear the Monaco. But one thing TAG Heuer does best, is … ContinuedThe post The return of a dark legend, with the lumelicious TAG Heuer Aquaracer Night Diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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How IWC watches became entwined into generations of my family history Time+Tide
IWC watches became entwined into Sep 11, 2021

How IWC watches became entwined into generations of my family history

My grandfather Fritz Meister loved watches. He was born in 1918 in Schaffhausen, Switzerland and had a close affinity with IWC because of the connection it had with his birthplace. He enjoyed a sense of pride that a company from the town where he was born made such great watches. As a result, his constant … ContinuedThe post How IWC watches became entwined into generations of my family history appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Bulgari are taking the Mickey, with the return of this Gerald Genta classic Time+Tide
Bulgari are taking Aug 31, 2021

Bulgari are taking the Mickey, with the return of this Gerald Genta classic

You may be aware that Gérald Genta sold his company to Bulgari in 2000. But relatively little has been made of the hook-up since then. However, there was always one particular option in the Genta catalogue whose cycle back into fashion has been slowly, but steadily happening as each month passes. With an ever-increasing number … ContinuedThe post Bulgari are taking the Mickey, with the return of this Gerald Genta classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Louis Erard Introduces the Regulator in Lapis, Malachite, and Aventurine SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Aug 31, 2021

Louis Erard Introduces the Regulator in Lapis, Malachite, and Aventurine

Louis Erard has embarked on a journey into the realm of special dials lately, starting with grand feu enamel and followed by hand-made guilloche – done affordably as is typical of the brand. And now Louis Erard is continuing apace with Excellence Régulateur featuring dials in lapis lazuli, malachite, or aventurine glass. But this time, however, the special dials are different. Louis Erard has opted for its signature regulator-style display, instead of the time-only format used on earlier editions, adding more character to the exotic-material dials.  Initial thoughts Regulators have long been a specialty of Louis Erard, and it’s a complication that’s uncommon this price point, especially a regulator with in-line hours, minutes, and seconds. The regulator watch has been the base for several interesting limited editions, especially the collabs with Alain Silberstein and Vianney Halter. Despite not being a collab with a notable personality, the latest regularly is equally interesting, because the dial materials are typically found in watches at a much higher price point. Recent examples including the platinum Omega Seamaster 300 or even the multi-million dollar, piece unique Rolex Daytona in platinum. In contrast, the new regulator is relatively affordable at just under US$3,200. At the same time, the regulator also costs less than the earlier special editions, namely the models with guilloche or enamel dials, making it an even better value proposition. Tho...

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Bulgari’s pivot to the Roma at Geneva Watch Days reveals they’re not just the Finissimo Show Time+Tide
Bulgari s pivot Aug 31, 2021

Bulgari’s pivot to the Roma at Geneva Watch Days reveals they’re not just the Finissimo Show

Question: has any watch brand evolved as much as Bulgari in the last decade? In 2011, the company’s watchmaking design division was transplanted from Rome to Neuchâtel in Switzerland in a sign of the brand’s horological intent. It’s proved to be wildly fruitful, too, as Italian style has merged with Swiss precision in a succession … ContinuedThe post Bulgari’s pivot to the Roma at Geneva Watch Days reveals they’re not just the Finissimo Show appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda PF Collection SJX Watches
Breguet inspired Aug 30, 2021

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda PF Collection

When I spoke with Parmigiani chief executive Guido Terreni earlier this year, he described his plans for the brand’s product as having a “new direction for design, which is less ostentatious”, adding that Parmigiani will ” go back to the craft and excellence of the early days… with an eye on the world of today.” With the new Tonda PF collection launched to mark Parmigiani’s 25th anniversary, Mr Terreni appears to have pulled it off. Made up of four watches – ranging from a time-only to a pricey split-seconds – the Tonda PF is a synthesis of Parmigiani’s recent integrated-bracelet sports watch and its earlier Toric timepieces that were classical and Breguet inspired. The result is a sleek case and integrated bracelet matched with a refined yet minimalist guilloche dial featuring solid-gold hands and indices. Initial thoughts In a review two months ago, I wrote that liked the Tonda GT sports watch, though I thought the dial could be done better in several ways. The new Tonda PF does exactly that. It keeps everything that was good with the Tonda GT and enhances the rest. The dial has been stripped of superfluous elements while gaining a barleycorn engine turning. In fact, the dial is almost Moser-ish in its restraint, with the only marking being a small “PF” logo, which is made of solid 18k gold. And the upgrades in materials continue with the case, with all the steel model getting a knurled platinum bezel. And the movements have been enhanced. The...

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H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Aug 30, 2021

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar

After the Streamliner made its debut in chronograph form last year, H. Moser & Cie. has just grown the line of luxury-sports watches to include the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar. As is typical of Moser’s house style, the new perpetual calendar is streamlined in design and presentation, with the dial indicating the date and month while remaining minimalist, avoiding sub-dials entirely. The inaugural version of the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar gets a black fumè dial, giving the watch a subtle palette that’s fitting for its minimalist aesthetic. Notably, the monochromatic, shades-of-grey livery also harks back to the limited edition chronograph that was the opening model of the collection. Initial thoughts Compared to the two earlier Streamliner models – chronograph and time-only respectively – the latest is the most representative of Moser because of the ingenious movement within. A movement that made Moser’s reputation when it was resurrected in 2005, the calibre is one of the few that truly reimagines the perpetual calendar. While the Streamliner chronograph has an equally ingenious movement, the perpetual calendar movement is Moser’s own, which makes it that much more special. While appearing similar to the other versions of the Streamliner, the Perpetual Calendar differs in a few respects, which makes it stand out against its siblings in the Streamliner range, and more appealing for that reason. The design is slightly more nuanced, possessing details l...

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Kurono takes affirmative action to boost their female audience with their Kurono SEIJI release Time+Tide
Aug 29, 2021

Kurono takes affirmative action to boost their female audience with their Kurono SEIJI release

EDITOR’S NOTE: Since Zach wrote this story earlier in the week, Kurono had a slight change of heart. Originally this watch was only going to be made available to women in a bid to expand their female audience. However, based on community feedback, the brand has now tweaked this policy and will now prioritise women … ContinuedThe post Kurono takes affirmative action to boost their female audience with their Kurono SEIJI release appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Hey brands, put all the spec cards on the table or your bluff will get called Time+Tide
Aug 12, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Hey brands, put all the spec cards on the table or your bluff will get called

Earlier this week, the watch community joined the author of this piece in expressing their disdain when a particular watch brand, to put it nicely, was not forthcoming about what was powering their new novelty. In short, there are accusations the brand’s purported “in-house movement” on a particular model was, in fact, made by ETA … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Hey brands, put all the spec cards on the table or your bluff will get called appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Everything you need to know about Certina and their key models Time+Tide
Certina Aug 11, 2021

Everything you need to know about Certina and their key models

I remember the first time I visited the Certina website. I had just been made aware of the DS Action GMT and wanted a rundown of the specifications. While there, I ended up browsing their other offerings and as I jumped between their different collections, one thing became clear. Every single reference, regardless of whether … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about Certina and their key models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Breguet Reine de Naples 8938: Just Perfect For My Wrist Quill & Pad
Breguet Reine de Naples 8938 Aug 10, 2021

Breguet Reine de Naples 8938: Just Perfect For My Wrist

When Nancy Olson first saw the Breguet Reine de Naples at Baselworld many years ago, she remembers being taken by its absolute gorgeousness. It was so much more than a jewelry watch and it seemed to be made just for her wrist. Many years and many “try-ons” later, the Reine de Naples is Breguet’s flagship ladies collection, the most recent of which is the Reine de Naples 8938, which is available in two beautifully diamond-set versions.

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Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon: Clean Design, Subtle Finishing, And Exquisite Restraint Quill & Pad
Jaquet Droz Aug 8, 2021

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon: Clean Design, Subtle Finishing, And Exquisite Restraint

The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon is a more complicated version of the original Grande Seconde Skelet-One in which an inverted dial and streamlined skeleton architecture made for an impressive watch. This even more impressive version has also spawned a one-off piece for the 2021 Only Watch charity auction beautified by artistic plique-à-jour enamel.

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RAKETA “BAIKONUR” Review WatchAdvice
Raketa Aug 6, 2021

RAKETA “BAIKONUR” Review

It’s the dawn of the new space age. Over the past 10 days, we have had two separate billionaires venturing into space in their very own spacecraft. With Elon Musk also firmly in the race (albeit not in his own ship… yet), it’s quite apt that we look at another aspect of the space age… as in, what will the space tourists wear on their wrist… in space??? When we think about mechanical watches, Swiss and Japanese watches usually come to mind. Perhaps followed closely by German watches. What about Russian? They pop up in a watch conversation perhaps as many times as humans have been into space. (Although given recent developments, the numbers might grow in favour of humans in space…) However, the Russians did have a thriving watch industry and whatever your viewpoints are political, you cannot ignore the fact that there are many interesting and fascinating Russian watches available today. Some of them were even developed with space travel in mind. Introduced in 1961, named in honour of Yuri Gagarin’s first manned flight to outer space on the Vostok 1, Raketa (Russian for “Rocket”) is perhaps one of the better known Russian watch companies. In fact, they are a true Manufacture in the sense that not only do they make their own movements, they also produce their own hairsprings, meaning they don’t need to rely on Swiss or Japanese supplies for this crucial part. One of the main points of difference is the “secret Soviet alloy” used to produce the hairsprin...

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Kees Engelbarts Introduces the Dragon Gate Trilogy SJX Watches
Aug 4, 2021

Kees Engelbarts Introduces the Dragon Gate Trilogy

According to Chinese legend, a carp that could jump the falls at the Dragon Gate of the Yellow River would transform into a dragon. The tale inspired the latest from Kees Engelbarts, a Dutchman who’s one of the most prominent engravers in Swiss watchmaking. The Dragon Gate Trilogy is a three-piece set of watches, each featuring a unique, hand-engraved and enamelled decoration that charts the carp’s transformation from fish to dragon. They are presented in an equally lavish box that’s hand made by a French cabinet maker and decorated by an award-winning lacquer artisan. Initial thoughts Over his two decades in watchmaking, Mr Engelbarts has created wristwatches of surprisingly diverse variety. Last year’s skeleton tourbillon was airy and organic, while the Dragon Gate Trilogy is decidedly more decorative. The trio is certainly not for everyone, though I do like the middle of the three watches, which depicts the carp in the midst of its transformation. The dial is striking and dramatic. The transformation dial But while the style is subjective, the quality of Mr Engelbart’s work is objectively excellent – unsurprising given that he’s long been a go-to engraver for a number of independent watchmakers, including veteran Svend Andersen. Mr Engelbart’s creations are truly high-quality artisanal work. The engraving is finely detailed and three dimensional, while being enhanced by Mr Engelbart’s clever use of exotic materials. The carp dial, for instance, feature...

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6 watches that tell the history of Longines dive watches in the ’60s and ’70s Time+Tide
Longines dive watches Jul 23, 2021

6 watches that tell the history of Longines dive watches in the ’60s and ’70s

Longines is one of the more successful and storied Swiss watch manufacturers over its lengthy history, which dates all the way back to 1832. But when most of us think of vintage Longines, we think of beautifully proportioned dress watches from the 1950s and their critical contribution to pilots watches from the early ’30s. In … ContinuedThe post 6 watches that tell the history of Longines dive watches in the ’60s and ’70s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Panerai Memorialises Classic 1930s Sailboat Eilean SJX Watches
Panerai Memorialises Classic 1930s Sailboat Jul 22, 2021

Panerai Memorialises Classic 1930s Sailboat Eilean

Panerai’s latest is unusual relative to its recent launches that are clearly contemporary designs – the Radiomir Eilean PAM 1243 is a traditionally-styled special edition that commemorates the eponymous sailboat built in 1936, the year the brand started supplying the Italian military with its waterproof wristwatches. Panerai acquired Eilean in 2006, after its former chief executive Angelo Bonati – a keen sailor with a fondness for old school sailboats – spotted the derelict yacht in Antigua. Three years of restoration made it seaworthy again, and now the boat occasionally sails as a roving ambassador for the watchmaker. While its outline and layout are familiar, the Radiomir Eilean incorporates details not commonly found on Panerai watches, such as the pinstriped dial inspired by the teak deck of Eilean. And the case has a special, “aged” finish first seen on the Radiomir 8 Days PAM 992 of 2019 that’s simultaneously shiny and matte, giving it a lived-in feel but not quite vintage. Engraving is done on the case side, leaving the dial clean Initial thoughts The Radiomir Eilean has most of the features that make for an appealing Panerai wristwatch, including a good-looking palette and discreet, interesting details across the dial and case – except for the oversized Eilean emblem on the case side. The mix of new and old in the design will not be for everyone, but I like it. Particularly attractive are the vintage-y colours, which have all been used before, b...

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H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Heritage Perpetual Calendar in Blue Enamel SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Jul 21, 2021

H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Heritage Perpetual Calendar in Blue Enamel

H. Moser & Cie. is quietly marking the 15th anniversary of its flagship complication with the Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel. It was, in fact, this very simple and smart perpetual calendar that helped put the brand on the map when it was revived in 2005 (while the original brand was established in 1828). Like the commemorative edition made for its 10th anniversary – which was essentially a fancy pocket watch with a strap – the new perpetual calendar is a departure from the brand’s typical design and instead relies on more classical flourishes, most notably an enamelled dial and case band. But true to the brand’s inclinations, the design remains relatively clean, largely to the concise calendar display. A subtle perpetual calendar Initial thoughts Moser’s perpetual calendar has long been applauded – for good reason. For one, the display is an elegant alternative to the typical, in-your-face layout made up of multiple sub-dials. Despite being less, the Moser perpetual manages to do more, being eminently legible. And the calendar is also convenient in a tactile sense – it can be set forwards as well as backwards. But being introduced 15 years ago, the complication is now familiar, familiar enough that it might be forgotten. The presentation then becomes important. And here the new edition is successful. Being part of the Heritage collection, the new model is quite different the brand’s usual offerings, like the Pioneer and Endeavour. In...

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