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Results for Hans Wilsdorf

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Hans Wilsdorf

Founder of Rolex (1905) and Tudor (1946). Invented the Oyster case and the Perpetual rotor.

Hands-On With The Yema Skin Diver Slim Full Lume CMM.20 Limited Edition Fratello
Yema Skin Diver Slim Full Apr 27, 2026

Hands-On With The Yema Skin Diver Slim Full Lume CMM.20 Limited Edition

I have had the pleasure of reviewing a good number of Yema watches over the past few years. During the many hands-on experiences, I have found that I gravitate toward the brand’s quirky classics. My all-time favorite is the Superman FAF Search And Rescue Limited Edition from a few years ago. But I also love […] Visit Hands-On With The Yema Skin Diver Slim Full Lume CMM.20 Limited Edition to read the full article.

Hands On: Dominique Renaud Pulse 60 SJX Watches
Apr 27, 2026

Hands On: Dominique Renaud Pulse 60

Accomplished movement constructor Dominique Renaud makes a compelling return with the Pulse 60, a slow-beating timepiece featuring a 1 Hz oscillator. An important name in the post-quartz era, Mr Renaud has recently re-emerged alongside Julien Tixier under the Renaud Tixier brand. The Pulse 60 marks his first signed watch in nearly a decade — following the million-dollar DR01 Twelve First, which resulted in a single unique piece. Initial thoughts When speaking today of advancing the theory and practice of horology, the conversation usually centres around cutting-edge materials, novel tribology research or reimagined complications. The Dominique Renaud (DR) Pulse 60 contradicts this trend and instead goes back in time to put a new spin on an old idea.  The slow beating 1 Hz Pulse 60 bets on classic chronometry, when heavy balances paired to slow and steady running rates were the champions of precision. Going one step further, DR slowed the oscillator to 1 Hz — or just one oscillation per second. In the era of ever-higher frequencies, the counterintuitive choice seems at first like a deliberate act of self-sabotage.  But after analysing the novel movement in the Pulse 60, it’s my opinion that it should prove to be a reliable timekeeper, and more than just a proof of concept. After Antoine Martin’s ill-fated Slow Runner, DR has produced a fully functioning 1 Hz timepiece by employing a smaller balance and — crucially — raising the amplitude ceiling to over 360°....

Watches & Wonders: Hands-On with the Parmigiani Fleurier “Toric Anniversaire” Collection Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Anniversaire” Collection My Apr 24, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Hands-On with the Parmigiani Fleurier “Toric Anniversaire” Collection

My appointment with Parmigiani Fleurier at last year’s Watches & Wonders was one of those meetings where it all kind of clicked for me. I loved those perpetual calendars they introduced, and for the first time since I’ve been working in the watch industry, the insider hype around Parmigiani really began to make sense. They are one of the ultimate “if you know you know” brands, at least among the mainstream exhibitors at Watches & Wonders, but they had always kind of eluded me.  This year’s big novelty was a very interesting chronograph that I wrote about here. I saw that watch, of course, and it’s very special. The movement is mindblowing – there’s simply no other chronograph quite like it, and it kind of takes seeing it in action to fully comprehend. It’s ability to go from a simple time only three hander to a five handed ultra complicated never before seen chronograph execution in a literal blink of an eye (and back again) is incredibly cool.  The new Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux But, I have to say, with every Tonda PF release, I become more aware that it just isn’t the corner of Parmigiani that appeals to me. The case just doesn’t really work on my wrist or sing to me in the way other similar watches sometimes do. The Toric, on the other hand, always does. This really feels like the distillation of what the brand is about, or at least how I understand it. The case is remarkably simple at a glance, but close examination reveals that every deta...

Hands-on – The Otsuka Lotec No.8 Refines Jiro Katayama’s Industrial Language Monochrome
Otsuka Lotec Apr 24, 2026

Hands-on – The Otsuka Lotec No.8 Refines Jiro Katayama’s Industrial Language

We wouldn’t go as far as to say that there’s something fundamentally different about the way Jiro Katayama approaches watchmaking. After all, industrial design, be it cars, instruments, or machinery, has inspired and defined quite a few independents. Still, most start from horology and branch outward, yet the mind behind Otsuka Lotec comes directly from […]

Hands On: Imaginative Automata from Jacob & Co. SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Apr 24, 2026

Hands On: Imaginative Automata from Jacob & Co.

It is somewhat counterintuitive to think that New York-based jeweller Jacob & Co. is one of the fastest growing brands in the mostly stagnant Swiss watch industry. In fact, Jacob & Co. is now a watchmaker first and a jeweller second by turnover – watches account for 75% of the brand’s revenue today. This success is party due to the brand’s open-minded approach to movement making and the surprising (and often risky) projects it has produced, from the first 31-day wristwatch in 2006 to the world’s fastest tourbillon in 2026. One of Jacob & Co.’s specialties is dial-side automata - micro-mechanical sculptures that that can be activated on demand. Alongside the launch of the flagship Godfather II, Jacob & Co. expanded its range of automata watches with new sapphire editions of the Bugatti Tourbillon, a malachite-dialled Casino, and new editions of the provocative Oil Pump. The Bugatti Tourbillon Sapphire Jacob & Co. is not the first watch brand to collaborate with celebrated carmaker Bugatti, but the collaboration is more than a mere commercial tie-up. In fact, the two companies share a manufacturing partner - Concepto - a La Chaux-de-Fonds-based specialist in components and white-label movements. Bugatti enlisted Concepto to produce the fully analogue instrument cluster of its latest hypercar - the aptly named Tourbillon. This was a delightful return to tactility in a world of digital displays and ubiquitous touchscreens. This three-way collaboration contin...

Hands-On: The Patek Philippe 50th Anniversary Nautilus Collection, Reference 5810G and 5610G Hodinkee
Patek Philippe 50th Anniversary Nautilus Collection Apr 23, 2026

Hands-On: The Patek Philippe 50th Anniversary Nautilus Collection, Reference 5810G and 5610G

Here's the thing. The 50th Anniversary Nautilus Collection was going to sell no matter what caliber was used, what case material was chosen, or what format was given. This is just a reality of the strength of Patek Philippe in the world today, and how in-demand integrated bracelet watches are. And to be clear, the Nautilus, along with the Royal Oak, set the tone long ago and remains at the pinnacle of the category. Actually, one would say the Nautilus remains at the pinnacle of *watches* in general when it comes to simple demand. It's the one that the most powerful people I know lust after the most – and I'm not saying that's good or bad, but it really just is. And here's the thing: the 40th anniversary of the Nautilus was a bit of a let-down for me. Because the Nautilus really is *the watch* for so many of us, and indeed, I am a true fan and always have been, and indeed, always will be, no matter how many dinguses I see wearing them today. 3700G Circa 1980, 5711R Circa 2015, 5811G Circa 2024 – Yes, I like the Nautilus a lot. As many of you know, the very first Patek Philippe I ever purchased was a 3940G. The very second? A Nautilus reference 3700A (I paid $18,000 for it, in a group buy with Paul Boutros, who bought a 222 for even less 😵‍💫). Some years later, I bought a very rare 3700G (I sold it to a close friend and mentor when he sold his company because it was something he'd always dreamed of owning). In 2015, when Nautiluses were still sitting in cases,...

Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V Apr 22, 2026

Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V

The new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V is a release from the brand at this year's Watches and Wonders that's gotten quite a bit of chatter, deservedly so. After all, it is the brand's thinnest-ever Overseas, thanks to a brand-new in-house movement developed over seven years, which means what I assume to be an ungodly amount of R&D; dollars per millimeter shaved. It's also come at a time when Vacheron seems to be really having a moment - the passion I saw amongst Vacheron collectors when I was in Miami last month for the opening of the brand's largest U.S. boutique was very much an exciting sight to see.  But is the final result worth all the effort? Very much so, if we take the new Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V as an ultra-limited, ultra-expensive halo product to mark the development of this new caliber. This 2500V and the Overseas Dual-Time Cardinal Points released alongside it at Watches and Wonders are already seeing very strong demand, and I think that's a sign of a good showing in Geneva. To many collectors of Vacheron over the years, the previous ultra-thin, time-only Overseas 2000V might feel like it had just come out, but in fact, a decade has passed since its introduction. Coming in white gold, the case measured 40mm in diameter, with a thickness of 7.5mm. Inside was the Vacheron 1120 caliber, a version of the JLC caliber 920 that had found its way in many watches amongst the Holy Trinity of brands, thanks to its superlative of being the thinnest aut...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G Apr 22, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G

Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref. 5322G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref Apr 22, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref. 5322G

Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...

Hands-On With The Spacy Half-Hunter Czapek Time Jumper In Steel Fratello
Czapek Time Jumper Apr 22, 2026

Hands-On With The Spacy Half-Hunter Czapek Time Jumper In Steel

You just can’t help yourself. You just must touch it, play with it, caress it. The spacy half-hunter Czapek Time Jumper sure is a tactile creation that begs to be handled and fondled. I didn’t really get the chance when it was introduced last year during Czapek’s big birthday bash in Geneva, but a little […] Visit Hands-On With The Spacy Half-Hunter Czapek Time Jumper In Steel to read the full article.

Hands-on – The New Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 Jubilee Gold Monochrome
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 Apr 21, 2026

Hands-on – The New Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 Jubilee Gold

Alongside the festivities surrounding the Oyster case’s 100th anniversary, Rolex had another surprise in store: a new in-house gold alloy. Known as Jubilee Gold, the first watch to flaunt the proprietary alloy is the iconic Day-Date, also referred to as the President’s watch. Catalogued in the “Exceptional Watches” collection, together with the Rolesium Daytona Albino, […]

A Hands-On Introduction To The Schaefer & Companions Solune Antarctica Micro-Painting Fratello
Apr 21, 2026

A Hands-On Introduction To The Schaefer & Companions Solune Antarctica Micro-Painting

Sometimes we come across projects or brands initiated by unique characters. Christophe Schaefer is one of those people. He is the founder of Schaefer & Companions, which releases special watches in very limited quantities. These timepieces result from Schaefer using his brand as a platform to celebrate human creativity. He does so by collaborating with […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Schaefer & Companions Solune Antarctica Micro-Painting to read the full article.

Hands-on – The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Collection Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Collection Apr 20, 2026

Hands-on – The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Collection

Back for a second tenure at Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jérôme Lambert’s 2025 return as CEO has brought fresh momentum to the brand. While spectacularly complex models like the Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon a Stratosphere might eclipse the limelight at Watches & Wonders this year, there is a second release that deserves attention: the new Master Control Chronometre collection. […]

A Hands-On Introduction To The Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.S And 1.GMT Fratello
Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.S Apr 20, 2026

A Hands-On Introduction To The Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.S And 1.GMT

We all love Holthinrichs here at Fratello. It’s great to see a Dutch brand thriving in the watch industry, especially with such distinct designs. On top of that, the brand is located in the lovely city of Delft, just around the corner from the Fratello offices in The Hague. Being so close to the impressive […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.S And 1.GMT to read the full article.

Introducing – The Hand-Engraved Grand Seiko 44GS Mystic Waterfall SBGZ011 Monochrome
Grand Seiko 44GS Mystic Waterfall SBGZ011 Apr 18, 2026

Introducing – The Hand-Engraved Grand Seiko 44GS Mystic Waterfall SBGZ011

Nature is a cornerstone of Japanese culture and a predominant theme at Grand Seiko. Even the settings of the Japanese brand’s manufactures are intentionally studied to inspire the takumi (artisans). Hailing from Grand Seiko’s haute horlogerie Micro Artist Studio in Shiojiri, the Japanese brand releases a high-end Masterpiece SBGZ011 in platinum, in a hand-engraved 44GS case and […]

Watches & Wonders: Hands-On Impressions of Two New Zenith G.F.J. Novelties Worn & Wound
Zenith G.F.J Novelties Why Apr 17, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Hands-On Impressions of Two New Zenith G.F.J. Novelties

Why is it that there are some watches we just kind of forget about? I think we’ve all experienced this right? We encounter a watch that really works, feels special, rave about to other collectors and, if you’re able, maybe even think about how you might acquire one (side note: that is definitely not the situation I find myself in with respect to the watches we’ll be discussing here).  For whatever reason, the Zenith G.F.J. found itself in that category for me. Last year, when I saw the first G.F.J., I think I probably verbalized to someone that it was the best thing I saw at Watches & Wonders 2025. I thought about it for weeks. I considered how it felt so much more handmade and specialized than any of the other new Zenith watches I’ve seen, which were mostly reminders that Zenith is a huge brand that needs to cast a wide net. And that’s the case again this year. The headline release for the brand this year is a new series of Chronomaster Sport references with skeleton dials. They are very nice watches, but tread familiar ground. We’ve seen countless iterations of the Chronomaster Sport at this point, and transitioning to skeleton dials after a period of time is part of the Zenith playbook.  The G.F.J. collection, by contrast, feels unpredictable and outside the bounds of the usual Zenith strategy. These are high end watches that take advantage of exotic materials and precious metals, and have more in common with many haute horlogerie indies, at least on the s...