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Business News: Swiss Watch Exports Drop In September
Shipments fall for the first time in 16 months.
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SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Introduces a Roulette Automaton Watch
Jacob & Co. already has a roulette complication in its catalogue inside the Astronomia Casino, a variant of its signature watch. Now the jeweller has condensed the concept into the Casino Tourbillon, which does away with the orbital carousel to focus on the roulette automaton, although it still conceals a flying tourbillon on the back. Initial thoughts The Casino Tourbillon is very much a Jacob & Co. watch with its exuberant style and complication – but it is slightly more restrained in design than the brand’s usual offerings. While it’s far from a low-key watch with its 44 mm diameter and over-16mm height, it is modest for a Jacob & Co. watch. The roulette complication is interesting and smartly executed, though not exactly new. It is essentially a more sophisticated version of the Franck Muller Las Vegas, which instead relied on a simple execution made up of a fixed wheelhead and freely-spinning pointer hand. Priced at US$280,000, the Casino Tourbillon is pricey. Although the dial construction is complex, the roulette automaton is relatively straightforward, as is the flying tourbillon. It is, however, unique in today’s market. While casino-inspired complications were once popular (after the Franck Muller Las Vegas became a bestseller), they are uncommon today. So for the high roller who wants a novel casino-themed complication, this is probably it. Game of chance While Jacob & Co.’s watches are usually over the top, the Casino Tourbillon is relatively clean...
Time+Tide
10 signs you’re becoming a watch snob
Watch enthusiasts do not always share the Swiss philosophy of neutrality. Being enthusiastic about something inevitably leads to hot takes, strong and stubborn opinions and, in turn, some snobbery. On the wrong day, I am definitely guilty of it myself – we’re all human after all. The reality is this niche hobby becomes less welcoming … ContinuedThe post 10 signs you’re becoming a watch snob appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Watch Jewels: What Do They Do and Why Do They Matter?
Those who are very new to appreciating watches may be surprised, and a bit confused, upon reading about a watch that boasts “21 jewels” and afterward looking it over and finding no diamonds or emeralds or any other precious stones on its dial or case. Many watches do, in fact, offer such adornments, but those are not what’s being referred to on a watch’s spec sheet in the “jewels” column; to clarify, “jewels” in horological parlance are not shorthand for “jewelry.” A watch’s jewels are, in fact, not even really intended to be seen and admired. Like the screws and gears and tiny wheels inside a watch’s movement, they are there to do a job, to play a vital and functional role in the smooth operation of a watch’s timekeeping. So what are jewels in a watch movement, anyway, and what are they for? And do watchmakers really use valuable, precious gems as workhorse components inside these micromechanical engines? On the latter question, well, yes and no. As to the former question, read on. The movement in a mechanical watch is a machine with lots of moving metal parts that tend to rub and grind against one another, creating friction that can wear down these components, adversely affecting the performance of the watch and ultimately shortening its functional life. The challenge in the early days of watchmaking was finding a substance harder than these metal parts to place at the vital pivot points to reduce metal-on-metal wear and tear. The answer pr...
Worn & Wound
Sinn Goes Full Titanium and Bronze with New T50 Dive Watch
Sinn has released a new midsize diver with some big time specs to kick off their 2023 releases with the new T50. This is a watch that may seem familiar at a glance, as a follow up to the popular U50 released in 2020, but there’s plenty new here to set plenty of distance between the two, the biggest of which are the use of new materials, which include titanium and a new Sinn developed alloy called Goldbronze. This is a proprietary material that boasts some unique features in the service of longevity and functionality in true Sinn fashion. It looks pretty good, too. The T50 arrives in three main configurations, going from full Goldbronze in a limited edition 125, to a mix of titanium and Goldbronze in the GBDR, and finally a fully titanium example that forgoes the use of Goldbronze altogether. All look to share the same mid case design and proportions of the 41mm U50, which is a very good thing (see our review of the U50 here). This rather svelte and wearable package gets a remarkably stout 500 meter depth rating, and with the T50 adds Sinn’s Ar‑Dehumidifying inside the bottom left lug. The dial and bezel present the biggest departure from the U50 design language, departing from the brutal blocky design of the hands and hour markers in favor of a more approachable look that utilizes bar shaped hour markers and a pair of broadsword hands. The look may be more palatable to those who found the U50 a touch too aggressive, however it comes at the expense of a distinctivel...
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Fratello Talks: Watch Brands With Untapped Potential
Time+Tide
A Tudor Black Bay Bronze 58 became my milestone watch to celebrate taking charge of my mental health
Editor’s note: The below story is a submission by Time+Tide reader Chris Antzoulis, who was moved to write it after listening to the Milestone Watches episode on About Effing Time. Here, he shares the story of what he has dubbed his “mental milestone watch”. Ever since I was a kid I loved watches - my … ContinuedThe post A Tudor Black Bay Bronze 58 became my milestone watch to celebrate taking charge of my mental health appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Culture Of Time: Pharrell Williams’ Trailblazing Watch Collection
The newly appointed menswear creative director of Louis Vuitton has always been ahead of the curve – from music to fashion to watches, and everything in between.
Worn & Wound
Watch Scrolling: Here are Five Instagram Accounts We Think Are Worth a Follow
You’ve probably heard of (and likely participated in) something called “Doom Scrolling” over the course of your life on social media. It’s when you jump on an app, and just keep scrolling forever, taking in all the banality, bad news, misinformation, and – how could we forget – unwanted advertisements that you can possibly stand. When you eventually look up from your phone, hours have passed, your automatic watch is begging for you to move it lest it run out of reserve, and you’ve become absolutely convinced the internet is nothing but a soulless void, and you should delete all the apps, forever. I empathize, but you don’t need to do anything quite so extreme. Maybe it’s just a matter of refreshing your follower list? Enter: Watch Scrolling, where a member of the Worn & Wound Team shares a handful of watch related Instagram accounts that might be a little off the beaten path, but are definitely worth a follow for great photography, insightful commentary, or, you know, just good vibes. These are the Instagram accounts that make the watch related ecosystem a better place. If you follow watch accounts that you think more people should be aware of, drop them in the comments below – we always love a suggestion for a good IG follow! @alangejourney View this post on Instagram A post shared by Paul (@alangejourney) If you’ve been to a watch meetup in New York, chances are you’ve met Paul, the collector behind the @alangejourney account. As his...
Time+Tide
What do you get if you cross a Rolex Daytona with an Apple Watch?
The Rolex Daytona and the Apple Watch are two of the most wildly desired timepieces on the planet. First up, you have the Daytona, the iconic chronograph first released in 1963, whose popularity spiked exponentially after Paul Newman’s timepiece sold at auction for US$17.75 million in 2017. Today, your chances of snaffling a Daytona at … ContinuedThe post What do you get if you cross a Rolex Daytona with an Apple Watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Talking Grail Watch 5: Chronoswiss Opus Blue with CEO Oliver Ebstein
Wei visits Chronoswiss’ HQ in Lucerne to meet Owner and CEO, Oliver Ebstein to talk about the fifth iteration of Grail Watch – a recreation of the brand’s iconic Opus from 1995; the world’s first serially-produced skeletonized automatic chronograph. Ebstein, who prior to taking over as owner and CEO of the brand more than a […]
Video
10 great iconic watch alternatives
Time+Tide
Meet my pet watch: Scientists create living smartwatch powered by slime
It’s probably a sign of just how much some people care about their watches, but timepieces have long been attributed human characteristics. I’ve often heard the movement of a watch described as its “beating heart”, while it’s also routine to talk about a watch’s “face” or “hands”. Perhaps this is a natural development given that … ContinuedThe post Meet my pet watch: Scientists create living smartwatch powered by slime appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Weekend Edition: Celebrity Watch Spotting, Watches To Wear In Your Doomsday Bunker, And Our Style Editor's Take On 2023 Watch Trends
Read on for secondary market predictions, Grammy's watch spotting and a very funny article about the TAG Heuer Solargraph.
Revolution
Up Close with Grail Watch 5: Chronoswiss Opus Blue
Grail Watch returns with its fifth collaboration, a coalescence of two key chapters: the revival of a past icon reimagined with an incandescent luminous signature. We took the world’s first serially-produced self-winding skeletonized chronograph, the Chronoswiss Opus, and modernized its officer-style case in grade 5 titanium with an electric blue CVD-treatment. The translucency created by […]
Quill & Pad
Tool Watch Revolution: Utilitarian Goes Upmarket; There’s More – Much More – Than Rolex! – Reprise
Tool watches continue their evolution among the watch industry’s most luxurious and coveted brands. Here Chris Malburg explores where their evolution has gone and might still go.
Worn & Wound
Windup Watch Shop Valentine’s Day Sales You Don’t Want To Miss
T’is the season of love and Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. Time is running out to get that special someone a gift they’ll always cherish. Remember…flowers die but watches last forever! Now through February 17th we are having a huge sale to give our customers something special just for them. Scroll below for some of our favorite deals and be sure to check out our Valentine’s Promo Page for even more! T’is the season of love and Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. Time is running out to get that special someone a gift they’ll always cherish. Remember…flowers die but watches last forever! Now through February 17th we are having a huge sale to give our customers something special just for them. Scroll below for some of our favorite deals and be sure to check out our Valentine’s Promo Page for even more! The post Windup Watch Shop Valentine’s Day Sales You Don’t Want To Miss appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Video
“If I Started My Watch Collection Again… I’d Pick One of THESE 5 Watches!”
Quill & Pad
Actively Black x Teleport ‘Obama’ Watch: Hands On – Reprise
On January 1, 2022, watch spotters were flummoxed by a photograph of President Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama in their New Year's Eve party dress. The former POTUS appeared to be wearing a black Royal Oak-style chronograph on a rubber strap. The watch in question turned out to be a collaboration between Teleport, a little-known U.S.-based fashion watch producer, and Actively Black, a U.S.-owned leisurewear company. Colin Alexander Smith managed to get his hands on one for a closer look, which he shares here.
Time+Tide
AP Social Club Day 2: 40 functions, 23 complications, ONE WATCH?!
New RD#4: Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Universelle boasts 40 functions and 23 complications in one watch. Royal Oak Concept debuts in 43mm size with split-seconds chronograph GMT. New Royal Oak Perpetual Colander Ultra-Thin has a smoky-blue dial exclusive to the model As if yesterday’s announcements had not already satiated our appetite for new Audemars Piguet pieces, … ContinuedThe post AP Social Club Day 2: 40 functions, 23 complications, ONE WATCH?! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Is your expensive watch a turn-off for lovers and friends?
It was Henry Kissinger who famously claimed that “power is the ultimate aphrodisiac” and, given the philandering of countless politicians, it’s hard to argue with this assessment. In many cases, power does indeed seem to bestow an extra layer of sexual magnetism on plain men of sizeable influence. Yet when someone is not a recognisable … ContinuedThe post Is your expensive watch a turn-off for lovers and friends? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: First-ever steel Code 11.59s, new Hublot x Murakami, Dubai Watch Week 2023
We have yet to lose novelty steam in 2023, so once again we have a fair bit of news from the week to recap. Vamos! Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet makes its first-ever debut in stainless steel Steel makes its first ever-debut in the Code 11.59 collection, resulting in a new lower CHF 21,000 entry … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: First-ever steel Code 11.59s, new Hublot x Murakami, Dubai Watch Week 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Opinion: Let’s Talk About Celebrity Watch Ambassadors
I’d like to start with a warning: what you’re about to read is going to be frivolous. This is not hard hitting watch journalism. It’s not a deeply felt opinion piece about a matter of great import to the watch world at large. And it’s not an in-depth review of a watch the community has its eye on. No, this little editorial is about something that’s been rattling around in my head for a while, and serves as an admission of sorts: I’m kind of fascinated by how watch brands use celebrity ambassadors. Somehow, celebrity ambassadors have become the third rail of serious watch conversation. They aren’t taken seriously by hardcore watch enthusiasts, and bringing them up in a circle occupied by hobbyists will often garner an eye-roll. Hey, I get it. The deeper you are into any particular culture, the less impact advertising and the popular version of whatever it is you like has on you. In a previous life as an amateur Music Snob, I’d sneer at the suggestion that I’d enjoy anything that might be played on the radio. I’d begin to write bands off as past their prime when they gained enough traction to graduate from playing clubs to larger theaters. If 5,000 people want to see these guys at the same time, there’s no way they’re niche enough for me. George Clooney would like to sell you a Speedmaster But over time, I’ve softened. I’ve even seen some of those bands I liked in college that were pretty obscure at the time go on to play arenas. Small arenas,...
Video
Tudor Pelagos FXD - Summer watch review
Worn & Wound
ADPT x TOPO Designs Meetup Recap (with Watch Spotting!)
This past week ADPT held its very first meetup, kindly hosted and in collaboration with TOPO Designs. The meetup was at TOPO’s Base Camp store in Denver, Colorado. A perfect location, Base Camp is a new marketplace in downtown Denver focused on outdoor gear and active lifestyle brands. With brands like Thule, Danner, and TOPO, it’s a pretty sweet spot. The TOPO Base Camp store was then a fantastic setting for a get-together. Colorful, vibrant, and full of awesome gear. The post ADPT x TOPO Designs Meetup Recap (with Watch Spotting!) appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Quill & Pad
Tutima Saxon One Chronograph: It Offers A Lot Of Watch For Its Price
The Saxon One Chronograph offers a lot of watch for the price (€4,600). It does so many things so well, but it is most of all, an original proposition. The big question for Martin Green is, strap or bracelet?
Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Air-King: A Classic Pilot's Watch Revamped at Watches & Wonders
Only at Rolex can a watch dubbed a King be described as humble compared to other watches with less lofty but still commanding titles like Master. The Rolex Air-King, despite being the oldest existing model in the mega-brand’s star-studded lineup, has never attained the levels of mainstream popularity and collectability enjoyed by household-name watches like the Daytona, Submariner, GMT-Master, and (arguably) even the Yacht-Master. Rolex hopes to change that this year, however, making the newest version of the Air-King a headliner of its 2022 collection, unveiled this week at Watches & Wonders 2022 in Geneva. Aviation History The Rolex Air-King (technically Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King) traces its history all the way back to 1945, when it was launched as part of a trio of timepieces called the “Air Series” that celebrated the accomplishments of Britain’s Royal Air Force in World War II, alongside the discontinued Air-Giant and Air-Tiger. The Air-King, the last survivor of that collection designed “to honor the pioneers of aviation,” went through a number of evolutions throughout the years. The original model’s 34mm case (considered large at the time, believe it or not), cream-colored dial and manual wind movement would eventually be replaced by the now-familiar design most recently updated in 2016: a black dial with a 60-minute scale and inverted triangle at the 12 o’clock/60-minute position (a feature of historical pilots’ watches); large 3, 6, and ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Jaeger-LeCoultre Raids Its Archives For A New Vintage Watch Collection
The grande maison hits rewind for a refresher on some of their most coveted wristwatches.
Quill & Pad
GaryG’s 2021 Year In Review: Acquisitions, Events, Trends To Watch, And Even Some Swag – Reprise
GaryG looks back over 2021 to share his travels, acquisitions, thoughts, and even some of the more interesting swag he picked up in this delightfully comprehensive overview of a watch nut's year.
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