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Presenting full details and hands-on with The Citizen mechanical model features the newly-developed Caliber 0200 mechanical movement. This is a new mechanical movement, and the first to be developed by Citizen in-house since 2010, and the first developed in collaboration with their Swiss subsidiary Manufacture La Joux-Perret S. A. As we understand it, Citizen hasRead More
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A simple but bestselling complication for Grand Seiko, the dual-time zone GMT received a makeover for Seiko’s 140th anniversary. The result is a quartet of GMT watches that evoke the changing landscapes in Japan as the seasons change. Made up of both Hi-Beat and Spring Drive models, the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Seasons” all share the same classically-styled case that has been associated with the GMT since the very first model. Each of the four watches is inspired by specific phases of each season. In East Asian cultures, each of the four seasons is further divided into six phases – known as 節気, or sekki, in Japan – to capture the subtle changes within a season. Each of the new GMT models is inspired by a sekki from each season. Consequently, the watches are each distinct in colours and finish, having inspiration as varied as green-cherry trees to the dark, moonlit sky. The GMT “Shunbun” SBGJ251 Initial thoughts The quartet exemplifies the style of modern-day Grand Seiko, especially in the splendid dials that translate the local landscape into intricate stamped patterns. And the cases are elegantly shaped but solid, and finished with Zaratsu flat polishing that is synonymous with Grand Seiko. Because all four watches are powered by longstanding movements – instead of the latest-generation 9SA5 that costs a lot more – the prices are all in line with existing models, US$6,300 for the Spring Drive GMT and US$7,100 for Hi-Beat automatics. Though ...
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As a watch enthusiast and journalist, I get excited when I see celebrities sporting coveted timepieces on their wrists. More often than not we see the greatest hits from the usual suspects, but on the most recent episode of Saturday Night Live, Nick Jonas made #watchfam really proud. Nick has a clear appreciation for watchmaking. … ContinuedThe post Nick Jonas shows he’s a serious watch guy with this Omega Speedmaster in Canopus Gold on Saturday Night Live appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Each of the models in the Rolex Professional series is a tool watch made for a man on a mission. While the Submariner and Sea-Dweller are diving watches, the Rolex Explorer II was originally built in 1971 for speleologists or cave explorers who required a sturdy, functional and highly legible watch while working in almost … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570 is the unsung hero in the Professional series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual made its first appearance in 2017. In 2020, it received a makeover in celebration of the brand's 175th birthday.
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Yachting’s most prestigious race, the America’s Cup once again has Omega as its official timekeeper, for the first time since 2003. Omega is inaugurating its partnership with a special-edition Seamaster chronograph for the 36th America’s Cup, which will take place off the coast of New Zealand in March 2021. The Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup Chronograph is the second edition made for the 2021 America’s Cup; the first was a Seamaster Planet Ocean. Initial thoughts Omega loves special editions; some are appealing in theme and execution, while others are unimaginative. The new Seamaster chronograph falls squarely in the former category – it’s definitely more exciting than last year’s America’s Cup Planet Ocean, thanks to a few novel technical features. While the America’s Cup edition retains the basic specs of the standard Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph, it incorporates functions catered specifically for yachting, including a regatta countdown on the minute register. Most unusual is the “Chrono Lock”, a slide on the case side that prevents activation of the chronograph. However, at US$10,700 (or 15,050 Singapore dollars), this costs almost 40% more than the standard Seamaster 300M Chronograph. That’s hard to swallow even for the most ardent of yachting fans, and considering the additional features. For the America’s Cup The America’s Cup edition has both its dial and bezel in blue ceramic, while the bezel markings are in white enamel ...
SJX Watches
Perhaps the most widely leaked recent launch, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” is a remake of the uncommon, ceramic-case Fliegerchronograph of 1994. Available only online via IWC’s web store, the Tribute to 3705 reproduces the look of the original, but in a larger case made of Ceratanium, essentially a titanium-ceramic composite. And the movement is the in-house cal. 69380. Initial thoughts Possessing the clear, functional style of IWC’s first-generation pilot’s watches, the original 3705 was a good looking watch. Being a pretty faithful remake, the Tribute to 3705 is almost as attractive. A little of the original’s proportions have been lost – the hour hand on the remake looks a bit short – but the Tribute to 3705 is appealing. And it’s also an upgrade with the new case material as well as the in-house movement, which enhances the appeal. It is, however, expensive at US$11,900. That’s 20% more pricey than the Top Gun “SFTI” chronograph, which has a ceramic case and the same movement. No doubt conceived to capitalise on desirability of the original 3705 – an example once owned by former IWC chief executive Gunter Blumlein sold for a little under US$54,000 in 2018 – the Tribute to 3705 will be sold exclusively online via IWC.com. That makes the project feel a little opportunistic, since it means IWC will retain almost all of the margin on the watch, instead of having to split it with a third-party retailer or even a...
Quill & Pad
When Italians make Swiss watches, we are always in for a treat. Martin Green thinks this has something to do with many Italians being very passionate about mechanics and design being something of a religion there. Bulgari has been successfully blending these two main elements for decades, and at the virtual 2021 LVMH Watch Week the brand showed that it continues to excel at it. Here, Martin highlights five of his favorite new watches from the digital fair.
SJX Watches
When Zenith first took the covers off the Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” in the middle of last year, my immediate reaction was “That’s a super cool-looking watch.” Unlike its fellow remakes like the A384 and A386, or the more recent A385, the Shadow isn’t a replica of an actual vintage watch Zenith produced in its heyday before the Quartz Crisis. While the Shadow was inspired by a 1970 prototype with a black-coated case that never made it into production, the Shadow is very much a modern design. It imagines what a vintage A384 might have been, had it been released in all-black livery in the 1970s. Compared to Zenith’s recent vintage-inspired watches, most of which are faithful remakes, the Shadow is a breath of fresh air. So when Zenith offered the chance for me to spend a couple of days with the watch, I seized it. The El Primero A384 Revival that’s a faithful remake of the vintage original Initial thoughts I had a visceral reaction when I first strapped on the Shadow: my heart sang, and a smile crept onto my face. I was struck by how different it looked on the wrist; distinct not only from the other El Primero chronographs, but against other offerings at the same price point. In fact, it looked to me more like a Bamford collaboration rather than a standard model. On the wrist, the Shadow stands out in a subtle but striking manner, especially to a watch enthusiast. Anyone who knows Zenith will understand that’s an A384, but different. Reductive desig...
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Detailed review of the new Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen, featuring the combination traditional Chinese timekeeping and Swiss horology.
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Omega released the latest update to the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional chronograph early this year with some much appreciated upgrades. Several changes were made to the dial and case, but most notably, the movement is now co-axial and anti-magnetic. For speedy owners, a magnetised Speedmaster happens once ever so often and can be quite a pain sometimes. Apart from its technical improvement, the new iteration also features several design updates to the dial and case.
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With its catalogue of very British watches, Farer has quickly developed a solid following among enthusiasts. Yet they were only established in 2015, when they made a proper mark on the microbrand scene with their colourful Universal series. The brand is now endeavouring to shake up the field watch, a category that tends to be … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Farer Lomond shakes up the field watch with perky blasts of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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For less than €2,500 you can get a pretty cool watch with an interesting story to tell. But which one: Japanese, German, or Swiss? Jan Lidmaňský highlights three possibilities from Seiko, Union Glashütte, and Oris, each of which might find a home on your wrist, but which would you choose? And why?
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Talk about a conversation piece. The loss and eventual return, against all odds, of a F.P Journe Centigraphe S, now worth $100,000 USD, was a tale that made my jaw drop. Particularly given it involved a pimp, a ransom and a desperate chase to be reunited with this watch of a lifetime. The man at … ContinuedThe post The crazy tale of the pimp, the ransom and the lost F.P Journe watch worth $100,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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With 2021 being its 140th anniversary, Seiko is going all out to commemorate the milestone. Getting an early start with the first anniversary edition announced last year, the Japanese watchmaker kicked off the series with a Grand Seiko in rose gold, followed by a revival of the King Seiko. Now it has just announced a trio of Prospex dive watches, made up of a pair of automatics (SLA047 and SPB207), and a solar-powered chronograph (SSC807). Inspired by Iriomote Island – a popular spot for recreational diving – the new Prospex watches feature vibrant, metallic green dials meant to evoke the lush landscape of the island in Okinawa. Initial thoughts The anniversary divers are good value for money, as most Seiko watches are, and also have the bonus of an appealing dial colour. But as is often the case with newer Seiko limited edition models, each of the new divers is merely one of many similar editions, which makes them less special individually. The priciest model is the Prospex Automatic Diver’s SLA047, a Marinemaster 300 m diver based on the Hi-Beat diver of 1968. A top-of-the-line dive watch, the SLA047 is powered by the 8L35, essentially a simpler version of the 9S55 Grand Seiko movement. And like Seiko’s other high-end mechanical watches, it is produced in the Shizukuishi facility, which is also home to the workshop for mechanical Grand Seiko watches. Other highlights include a 300 m water-resistance rating thanks in part to an unusual monocoque case, and a ce...
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Surely this is a marriage made in motorsport heaven? Your inner petrolhead might be increasingly dormant at a time where there’s an increasing emphasis on soulless electric cars and less of the freedom and speed that motor racing traditionally symbolises. If so, consider this watch your re-awakening. To paraphrase TAG Heuer CEO Frédéric Arnault, TAG … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph says it’s time to re-awaken your inner petrol head appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Sharp design mixed with a distinct British aesthetic is a winning combination that has earned Farer a solid following among knowing enthusiasts. The brand was established back in 2015 when they made a proper mark on the microbrand scene with their colourful Universal series. Now they’re back with the Farer Exmoor field watch with its … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The olive-green Farer Exmoor field watch feels like wrist-bound British tailoring with a sexy twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Young Canadian watchmaker Bradley Taylor has just made his debut with the Paragon. Having trained as a watchmaker in Switzerland, as well as gaining Patek Philippe and Hublot watchmaking certification, Mr Taylor’s eponymous brand grew out of his earlier venture, a two-man partnership similarly focused on a concise, well-executed watch. Very much a made-in-Canada wristwatch, the Paragon is a classical time-only that’s assembled and partially finished by Mr Taylor in his home workshop. Mr Taylor produces the hands himself, while most of the other components are produced by specialists in Switzerland, including Comblémine, the dial maker owned by Kari Voutilainen. But Mr Taylor has been careful to incorporate local details into the watch. Canadian graphic designer Ian Brignell was responsible for the Paragon’s Arabic numerals, and even the square-slot case back screws are Canadian in origin. The Paragon in purple and pale blue Initial thoughts There are times when it feels like the luxury-watch has become too successful for its own good – endless waitlists and steep price premiums for the hottest watches, as well as astronomical results at auction. At the same time, consumers often seem more concerned with resale value rather than the intrinsic value of craft. So it’s heartening to see the rise of niche independent watchmakers in the US$20,000-ish price range, such as Kikuchi Nakagawa, and now Bradley Taylor. Their work reminds me what watchmaking can be – the...
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Fast-forward 30 years into the future. You’re being chauffeured by your robot valet in your flying car on a trip to buy another pair of underpants made from laser-beam holograms (you’re not entirely convinced by them, but your cyborg wife thinks they look sexy). But when you glance at the watch on your wrist – … ContinuedThe post How the Bulgari Octo Finissimo accidentally became the most contemporary watch of modern times appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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It was way back in 1969 that the first-ever gold Omega Speedmaster rolled off the production line, made for one wrist in particular – that of Richard Nixon. The caseback was engraved to read: RICHARD M. NIXON – PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES – “to mark man’s conquest of space with time, through time, on … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: This Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is as good as (Sedna) gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Swiss maisons are at it again, bringing their entire arsenal of craftsmanship to celebrate the Chinese New Year. As we all know, the Chinese market is huge and a great reason for watch brands to bring out the big guns. By big guns, however, we really mean the opposite here, as tiny instruments and … ContinuedThe post Ox-fresh: Celebrate Chinese New Year with wristworn art from Blancpain to Swatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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From a robust profit of CHF748m the year prior, Swatch Group ended 2020 with a net loss of CHF53m – the first in decades for the Swiss watch conglomerate that owns brands like Omega, Longines, and Tissot. This reversal of fortune was attributed to the COVID-19 pandemic, which forced many of its retail stores to close while putting a halt to international travel. On an operating level, Swatch Group eked out a tiny CHF52m profit – compared to CHF1.02 billion the year before. The year’s results were mitigated by an improvement in the second half of 2020, with sales in the second half of the year rose 54.7% compared to the previous six months, as economic activity resumed in Asia with pandemic restrictions lifted, particularly in China, which experience double-digit growth for the full year. And the Swatch Group also had to face a virus of the digital kind in the second half of the year. Reported in information-technology news but not in the mainstream press, the group suffered a cyber attack in September, leading to a mention of “a 10-day production interruption” at Omega in the results announcement. Hit harder than most With jewellery selling better than luxury watches, fellow Swiss rival Richemont was buoyed by its pair of jewellery brands that helped plug the hole caused by its faltering watch division. Although Swatch Group owns American jeweller Harry Winston, the bulk of its revenue is generated by watches and watch components. Net sales fell to CHF5.59 bil...
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Grand Seiko gets a lot of attention from collectors that’s well-deserved for the incredible artistry it delivers. If the Swiss were even capable of paralleling this Japanese craft and philosophy, the resulting products would likely be far more expensive. Grand Seiko continually brings high craftsmanship and value to the table, the brand name truly built … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGW264 has one of the best green dials in the industry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Wildly expensive watches displaying “secret” sex scenes are still being made. Who on earth thinks they're a good idea?The post Can we all just admit that “erotic watches” are cringeworthy and embarrassing? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Two years ago, when Zenith celebrated the semicentennial of the El Primero – the world’s first high-beat, automatic chronograph movement – a successor to the long-running workhorse was quietly unveiled as part of a three-piece set. Designed from ground up as a brand-new movement, the El Primero 3600 was equipped with modern tech and additional features, including twin chronograph seconds hands. But the movement never made it to regular production, until now. The El Primero 3600 finally becomes accessible with the new Chronomaster Sport, a new line of sports chronographs featuring a shiny black-ceramic bezel and two dial options. Initial thoughts The debut of El Primero 3600 two years ago was noteworthy, but it was lost amongst the tasteful remakes – case in point – created to commemorate the anniversary. Now that the vintage remakes have reached their end with the final instalment announced just recently, the new movement can take the stage. The El Primero 3600 is certainly an impressive upgrade and a completely different animal compared to the original El Primero. Most notable is the addition of a lightning central seconds that travels six times as fast, completing one revolution every 10 seconds, allowing it to measure 1/10th of a second. That truly unleashes the full potential of the El Primero movement, which runs at 10 beats a second, or 36,000 beats per hour. Technical ingenuity notwithstanding, the watch itself looks good, albeit slightly derivative. T...
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