Time+Tide
New releases from Naoya Hida, echo/neutra, Sartory Billard and more
This week, it was all about the independents as the big brands did most of their releases during the fairs, with plenty of fun to be had.
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Time+Tide
![New: Ulysse Nardin [Super] Freak](https://deployant.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/05/SUPER-FREAK_ULYSSE-NARDIN_2520-500LE-3A-BLUE_3A-5-1200x1500.png)
Deployant
New: Ulysse Nardin [Super] Freak
Unveiled as part of Ulysse Nardin’s 180th‑anniversary celebrations, the [Super] Freak represents the most technically ambitious evolution of the Freak lineage to date.
Monochrome
Event – Taste of Time – Independent Watchmaking Event Scaling Up for its Third Iteration
It’s happening again! For the third time, Adriaan and I join forces (and passion) to organise and host the one and only watch event in the Netherlands, where Independent Watchmakers are in the spotlight. This time it will be held in a new location, bigger, better and easier to reach. And more brands are participating, […]
Fratello
Thomas’s Watches And Wonders 2026 Favorites: Conservative Classics Catch My Gaze
As Fratello writers, my colleagues and I always have this article in the back of our minds as we work our way through the Watches and Wonders peak workload. We all know that sooner rather than later, Head of Content Nacho will schedule a Watches and Wonders 2026 favorites article for each of us, so […] Visit Thomas’s Watches And Wonders 2026 Favorites: Conservative Classics Catch My Gaze to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Oris Star Edition Review: A Faithful Revival of a Mid-Century Classic
Launched at this year's Watches & Wonders, the Oris Star Edition ushered the return of one of the brand's most significant designs in its history.
Video
Thinking of Buying a Pre-Owned Rolex? WATCH THIS FIRST! (Q&A;)
Hodinkee
In Partnership - Video: Ben Clymer, Georges Kern Discuss Universal Genève’s Revival At Watches & Wonders
Universal Genève means a lot to us at Hodinkee. It's been one of my favorite brands since the early days of our publication—one that's been with me through various moments in my career, through my growth in knowledge and passion for vintage watches, and a brand I've watched with anticipation, hoping it would come back. And today, we are sharing a conversation between myself and Georges Kern, former Breitling CEO and recently appointed CEO of House of Brands, which includes Breitling, Universal Genève, and Gallet, to chat over the recent results of a long-term project to bring Universal Genève back to the forefront. I don't think there's been a more hotly anticipated brand relaunch than that of Universal Genève. The announcement that Breitling (now House of Brands) had secured the rights to the dormant brand sent shockwaves through the industry. We—both in the industry at large and at Hodinkee—had high hopes for the relaunch, but the proof would come with the first releases. Let me tell you, I don't think anyone thought Universal Genève would go this far to knock it out of the park. Just before Watches and Wonders 2026, Universal Genève essentially stole the show before it began by launching a few dozen of its most iconic watches in both heritage-styled and reimagined forms. The Gerald Genta-designed Polerouter? Returned, not just in one size but two, and in multiple materials, dials, bracelets, and more. Oh, and a brand-new microrotor (well, three-quarter rotor...
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Cornavin Diver, A Patek 1593 "Hour Glass," An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Square, And More
Given that May 1st is celebrated as International Workers Day, it seems almost compulsory to reward yourself with a little mid-day Mayday watch ogling, right? Congrats, Baller, you've done it again. Happy Friday. Scorekeeping last week's picks: the Certina Argonaut chrono went for £1,620, the Vacheron Constantin 6394 for £7,400, the IWC Mark XII for £2,400, and the Cartier Coussin for CHF 42,000. Strays Everyone's encouraged to take a closer look at this, described as an "18k Vintage Vacheron Constantin Geneve Quartz Watch," and let's take a moment to collectively register the fact that, in the pictures, the second hand has clearly moved, so either a) the battery's still got some life in it after all (impressive!), or b) maybe it's not quartz. Mr. Hoffman wrote earlier this week about the Patek 5322G, "[a] chiming alarm in a mechanical watch today is a purely romantic complication that recalls an earlier era." While he presumably wasn't specifically referencing the LeCoultre Memovox, it's certainly what springs to mind when I think of the alarm watches from an earlier era, and if you've made it this far in life without one, here's a pricey way to address that lack. Photo courtesy Precious Collections. Yes, the dial is imperfect, but look, if you're going to scare the bejesus out of yourself with an old mechanical alarm that sounds like a tattoo machine suddenly buzzing to life on your wrist, don't you owe it to yourself to do so with lots of gold? Finally, if you've w...
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: Watches & Wonders Recap
Episode 37 of the SJX Podcast recaps the biggest releases from the brands officially exhibiting at Watches & Wonders 2026. Rolex marked a century of the Oyster case with an enamel-dialled Daytona and new Oyster Perpetuals, but also revised the ugly duckling of the catalogue — the Yacht-Master II — transforming it into an appealing and interesting chronograph. Patek Philippe arguably overshadowed the 50th anniversary of the Nautilus with a new Celestial that’s capable of tracking sunrise and sunset year-round (at least in Geneva). Vacheron Constantin and Grand Seiko introduced titanium sports watches many had been waiting for, and TAG Heuer reinvented the chronograph with a fascinating compliant mechanism. Highlights from the independent brands exhibiting around town will be covered in our next episode. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Our Favorite Flieger-style Watches After A Decade Of Reviews
Explore the best flieger-style watches we’ve tested hands-on, from traditional Type A and Type B designs to modern pilot-inspired picks that actually wear well daily.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Alternatives In 2026
Another Friday, another list. After last week’s list of Tudor Black Bay alternatives, we’ll move on to one of the watch world’s biggest icons. It’s time to check out our five favorite alternatives to the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo.” This watch is widely regarded as having spawned a new genre in 1972, and […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Alternatives In 2026 to read the full article.
Video
Watch Expert DESTROYS Ben Shapiro's HORRIBLE ADVICE ABOUT COLLECTING WATCHES
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Cleguer Horology Inspiration One
Mathieu Cleguer makes his debut under his own name, with the intricate Inspiration One. The relatively young movement constructor is well known in the industry but has not produced watches under his own name until now. Having worked for various movement specialists — including a stint at Akrivia — Mr Cleguer launches Cleguer Horology with a thoroughly impressive debut featuring a proprietary escapement. Initial thoughts Although the market for artisanal time-only watches has becoming increasingly crowded, sometimes a new creation comes along that genuinely stands apart. This is the case with Cleguer Horology’s Inspiration One — a watch that that is surprisingly refined and technically imaginative for a new maker’s debut. Mathieu Cleguer is representative of a new class of independent watchmakers who are not ‘watchmakers’ in the traditional sense. Instead, he is an engineer, with the training and experience to bring fundamentally new concepts to life, so long as he can find the manufacturing partners and bench watchmakers to help realise his vision. It’s a fundamentally different background than what we’re used to seeing — George Daniels, Kari Voutilainen, and François-Paul Journe started their careers doing hands-on restoration work long before they designed movements of their own. But times have changed, and the emergence of engineer-led brands is a new trend made possible by the depth of the supplier network in Switzerland. For the visual design of...
Fratello
Summiting Mountains With A Tudor Heritage Ranger
I have always believed that the best watches don’t merely time. Just as importantly, they also tell stories. Some carry the quiet rhythm of daily life, while others absorb something more visceral — altitude, effort, risk, and reward. When I spoke with Amarveer Brar, it became clear that his Tudor Heritage Ranger ref. 79910 belongs […] Visit Summiting Mountains With A Tudor Heritage Ranger to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Ressence Type 11
Among the independent brands officially exhibiting at Watches & Wonders, Ressence was a standout. The design-forward Belgian independent took a major step forward with the Type 11, powered by the brand’s first proprietary calibre, the RW-01. The Type 11 is tangibly appealing and priced well considering both its unique design and technical content. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the Type 11 and its RW-01 movement, I had the same feeling as when Urwerk launched the EMC back in 2013. At the time, the EMC felt like the start of a new era for a brand that had, up to that point, primarily put its proprietary modules atop widely available off-the-shelf calibres. The EMC proved Urwerk was willing to rethink the movement in its entirety to realise a specific vision. The RW-01 reveals Ressence is moving in that same direction. After 15 years of adapting its Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) modules to ETA-derived calibres, the brand has taken the next step in its development and partnered with an adept supplier to construct a proprietary movement uniquely suited to its signature design. The new calibre was engineered with Ressence’s ROCS module in mind. The movement layout appears purpose-built for winding and setting via the case back, lacking an ordinary stem, and dual serially coupled mainspring barrels extend the power reserve to 60 hours — quite long considering the mass of the ROCS module. While I would have been delighted to see a free-sprung balance, I...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Patek Philippe Cubitus 5840 Perpetual Calendar
Patek Philippe’s divisive Cubitus collection enters its third year with the firm’s first truly skeletonised perpetual calendar wristwatch, the Cubitus ref. 5840p-001 Perpetual Calendar Skeleton. As the first member of its clan with a shaped movement, it also welcomes a contemporary aesthetic that breaks with the brand’s established codes of movement decoration, though it’s built on a decades-old foundation. In short, the ref. 5840P is an ideal ambassador for what the Cubitus line can be when it steps out from its brother’s shadow. Initial thoughts The most complicated — and most expensive — Cubitus yet is also arguably the best model in the collection to date, as it probably should be. While on paper it sounds derivative of the Nautilus perpetual calendar, this watch may have the strongest identity of any Cubitus launched so far by fully leaning into the bolder, more contemporary aesthetic that Patek Philippe has, until recently, hesitated to explore. Several details allow the ref. 5840P to have its own identity. The first is the use of a strap, rather than the typical Nautilus-style bracelet. The reshaped movement is another differentiator, as is the new finishing style, which makes it more than just a square Nautilus. Yet the teak deck motif remains central, integrated seamlessly into the skeletonised design. Two other details that stand out are the use of a baguette-cut diamond to denote the platinum case, rather than the usual brilliant-cut stone, and the...
Worn & Wound
Our Favorites from Watches & Wonders Week
As we do every year when we come back from Watches & Watches, we asked our team to pick their favorite releases of the show. This article is always telling, because our team has a way of looking beyond the hype and zeroing in on watches with real personal appeal. As always, it’s fun to see the logic behind these picks, whether they represent watches our team members would actually want to own, or were simply novelties they were overwhelmed by in the moment. Be sure to let us know your favorites from Watches & Wonders week in the comments below, we’d love to hear about them. Zach Weiss – Grand Seiko SBGZ011 “Mystic Waterfall” So many watches, so many wonders, how does one even begin to choose a favorite? Well, for me, the test is after a few days of being away from the show, what I am still thinking about. And this year, while there are a few, the one that impressed me not just as a watch, but as a piece of art was the Grand Seiko SBGZ011 “Mystic Waterfall.” Every few years, Grand Seiko drops one of their breathtaking hand carved watches, but none have been quite like this, at least for me. You see, the SBGZ011 has two firsts: it’s based on the 45GS case, my personal favorite, and it’s the first time the dial has been hand-engraved, too. Inspired by the Tateshina Waterfall, the SBGZ011 has been meticulously hand-carved on all surfaces of its 950 platinum case with an undulating, organic motif of marks that, at once, appear like flowers or little explos...
Video
Top 10 Bargain Luxury Watch Brands - High-End Watchmakers That Lose a Ton of Value
Hodinkee
Introducing: Naoya Hida & Co.'s 2026 Slate Of Releases, Including Two Brand-New Models And Their First Porcelain Dial
What We Know It's spring, which means it's time for Naoya Hida's annual trunk show, where the brand tours the world to showcase its new watches. If you're in town for one of their few stops (like next week in New York), you can treat it like any tailor's trunk show and find out if the watch is a good fit. And every year, Hida-san and his team unveil a few new styles. In fact, you can see the ten releases on offer below. Some are familiar; others have small tweaks (the Type1 is now the Type1E because of the new domed crystal that makes it 10.9mm). But there are three watches that are so distinctly new that it's worth talking about. Let's go in numerical order, starting with a watch that is essentially just a dial revision, but it's a dramatic one at that. The Type2 series has been around for six years now as the brand's central seconds movement, followed by revisions in 2021 and then the coveted collaboration with The Armoury in 2022, called "The Lettercutter." I know a lot of people fought to get that piece, but there's a new Type2C-2 that's going to get some attention. While a big draw for Naoya Hida is the hand-engraved German or Argentium silver dials (in fact, that's where a lot of the price goes), they've pivoted here to their first-ever porcelain dial. The watch, powered by a Cal. 3020CS manually-wound movement with 45-hour power reserve and 4Hz beat rate, is cased in 37mm by 11.4mm stainless steel with a 44.8mm lug-to-lug. The glass is a curved sapphire crystal with...
SJX Watches
Tudor’s F1 Season Begins with Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26”
Continuing with a practice that began last year, Tudor has announced a limited edition as this year’s Formula 1 season kicks off. As with last year’s edition, the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” is modelled on the livery of the racing car of Visa Cash App Racing Bulls (VCARB). It’s otherwise identical to last year’s model, which means it is lightweight, well priced, and equipped with the high-spec MT5813 movement. Initial thoughts The Carbon 26 is essentially last year’s watch with a new dial, but I like the new yellow and white livery than last year’s white and blue. The colours are subjective, but the value proposition of the watch remains objectively excellent (though the price has risen largely due to the strength of the Swiss franc). The Carbon 26 is still competitively priced next to its rivals. As an aside, I hope Tudor will eventually incorporate more design elements from its historical motor racing chronographs, like the Monte Carlo, into its modern-day F1 editions like the Carbon 26. The Carbon 26 is clearly a Black Bay – the “snowflake” hands are a giveaway – but the Black Bay is a dive watch rather than one for the road. Carbon inside and out The Carbon 26 gets its name from the carbon fibre composite case and bezel, which have a patterned surface typical of the material. The type of composite employed here is more subtle appearance-wise compared to other composites used in watchmaking, so at a distance the case appears a flat black. Thoug...
Hodinkee
Business News: Watches And Wonders Attendance Climbs Despite Geo-Politics And Economic Challenges As Brands Make Case For Value
The watches that prove commercial and collector successes emerging from Watches and Wonders 2026 will have climbed a wall of worry. There was plenty to fret over heading into the watch industry's largest and most important annual salon this year. The eruption of war in the Middle East challenged travel plans and clouded the outlook for visitors from the region and beyond. Indeed, sales have certainly been impacted in the Middle East, and the question remains how quickly stability might return.The existing bugbears of the watch sector – rising input costs from raw materials, including record gold values, ongoing U.S. tariffs, not to mention the continued strength of the Swiss franc, as well as years of retail price increases – remained omnipresent. All told, these factors could have set the stage for a subdued, cautious event. Instead, the industry converged in Geneva, striking an optimistic and inclusive tone where it worked hard to show it's been paying attention to the demands of clients and customers with new watches that drove home a theme of demonstrating value in often, but not always, familiar packages. With public-facing events including Montreaux Jazz concerts in the Geneva city center, Watches and Wonders emphasized its role as a cultural tent pole for the industry and the Swiss watchmaking region, aiming to be more open and welcoming. The new, more public-oriented strategy certainly paid off as attendance jumped to nearly 60,000 unique visitors, a record for...
Deployant
Review: Panerai Luminor 31 Giorni PAM01631 new from WWG26
We review the new Panerai Luminor 31 Giorni PAM01631 month long power reserve watch from Watches & Wonders 26. Live photographs and comprehensive review.
Quill & Pad
New Release: Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller Slate Grey
At this year's Watches & Wonders exhibition, the brand is presenting the Sport Traveller, arguably the most practical watch in its collection.
Video
A watch made by a YouTuber - Northern Watches Bronze Age
SJX Watches
Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar
A. Lange & Söhne has repeated last year’s bifurcated release format with the launch of the compact, value-oriented Saxonia Annual Calendar alongside the flagship Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”. Available in both 18k white and pink gold, the Saxonia Annual Calendar is not a limited edition, but will be made in small numbers as a consequence of the brand’s diverse portfolio and limited output of about 5,000 watches per year. Initial thoughts The Saxonia Annual Calendar was one of the more talked-about watches of the fair, not because it’s particularly novel or exciting, but instead because it gets all the small things right. It looks good on the spec sheet, with nearly perfect dimensions, the brand’s signature big date complication, and an upgraded and well-dressed automatic base calibre. But as good as the Saxonia is on paper, it’s even better up close. The brand’s typical alpha-shaped hands — common to all Lange models — are brilliantly sharp, and the dial text is finely printed. A detail I especially like on the white gold model is the nearly tone-on-tone typography for the ‘Made in Germany’ text, which is something I’d like to see more of from the brand. A new aesthetic detail is an additional facet at the outer end of each hour marker, effectively creating a tiny pyramid, akin to Cote de Paris. This design appears to be a subtle nod to the previous generation of the Saxonia, which featured baton indexes punctuated with gold stu...
Fratello
Jorg’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2026 Releases — Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, And More
Picking highlights from this year’s Watches and Wonders is tough, as always. Once again, it’s more a matter of abundance rather than a lack thereof. But somehow, Watches and Wonders 2026 felt different compared to last year. It was more about consolidation than big technological innovations or grand anniversaries. Nevertheless, there was an avalanche of […] Visit Jorg’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2026 Releases — Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, And More to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: A Big Year For Skeletonized And Openworked Watches
Skeletonized watches and openworked dials seem to be everywhere this year. From subtle cutouts that reveal just a hint of mechanics to fully open displays that showcase the entire movement, brands across price segments are leaning into transparency. Whether driven by aesthetics, technical ambition, or simply a desire to stand out, it’s a trend that’s […] Visit Fratello Talks: A Big Year For Skeletonized And Openworked Watches to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – Naoya Hida Presents its 2026 Collection, Incl. a Valjoux 23 Chronograph
It is no secret that Japan is becoming one of the most productive hubs for high-end independent watchmaking, with names such as Hajime Asaoka (also behind Kurono Tokyo and Takano), Jiro Katayama (Otsuka Lotec), Daizoh Makihara, and Norifumi Seki (Quiet Club) gaining incredible traction in recent years. Another name that cannot be forgotten is Naoya […]
Worn & Wound
Everything to See and Do at Windup San Francisco: Padel, Panels, Parties, Watches, and More!
The 2026 Windup Watch Fair San Francisco is just days away, and we’re fairly certain there’s never been a Windup with as much going on as this one. Alongside everything you’d expect—like amazing lead sponsors including Bremont, Brew, Christopher Ward, Frederique Constant, and Oris—this fair also features 80+ brands from around the world and a slew of extracurricular activities across all three days. Here’s a quick guide to everything happening in and around the big weekend in The Bay Area, starting with a reminder of the where and when. Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Friday, May 1 – Sunday, May 3, 2026 Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture San Francisco, CA Free and open to everyone No registration necessary EDC Expo, Giveaways, and More We’re excited for the return of the EDC Expo, presented by GiantMouse. Longtime supporters of Windup, the team at GiantMouse is elevating the gear and accessories section in a meaningful way with their ACE Riv in titanium, brass, green canvas Micarta, and more. Nearly a dozen everyday carry and accessory brands will greet you at the front of Gateway Pavilion. For the first time, you’ll also find Kindred Motorworks on-site, showcasing their meticulously restored EV Broncos—and yes, you can sign up to test-drive one through some of San Francisco’s most iconic streets. Our friends at Fitwell will be joined by their mustachioed mate Andy from Andy’s Watches on Instagram and TikTok at their EDC Expo b...
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