7,468 articles · 4,359 videos found · page 12 of 395
How Nicolas Hayek\'s ASUAG/SSIH merger (1983) and Swatch brand launch (March 1983) rescued Swiss watchmaking from the quartz crisis.
Largest Swiss watch employer (~17,000 staff). 18 brands from Breguet/Blancpain at the top to Swatch at entry. ETA SA + Nivarox-FAR. Hayek family controls.
Monochrome
One of Swatch Group’s mid-level brands, Mido is beginning to get the attention it deserves with well-designed, robust watches that won’t break the bank. The recent revival of Mido’s 1970s TV-shaped watch, rechristened the Multifort TV Big Date, is a testament to the brand’s knack for transforming vintage designs into coveted models with contemporary specs. […]
SJX Watches
Ming has unveiled the Polymesh strap, described by the brand as the world’s first 3D-printed titanium watch bracelet. Blurring the line between bracelet and strap, it’s comprised of 1,693 articulating grade 5 titanium components. Designed to fit any Ming case with 20 mm lugs, the Polymesh strap reflects the brand’s growing ambitions. Initial thoughts The Polymesh strap illustrates the important function that independent brands like Ming play in the watchmaking ecosystem; they can explore concepts that big brands cannot. Large industrial brands are, to some extent, locked in a cage of their own making. On one hand, they have scale and distribution, but on the other, any innovation must be tested exhaustively to ensure it won’t complicate service channels. Ming exists in a sweet spot, with enough market traction to confidently invest in the development of new ideas, and the nimble size to take decisive action. In this context, it’s not surprising to see the first 3D-printed wristwatch bracelet come from a brand like Ming rather than an industrial powerhouse like Rolex or the Swatch Group. The concept itself is inherently interesting. It might be called a bracelet or a strap, but regardless of the nomenclature, it’s intended to offer both the dense, draping feel of a bracelet with the supple flexibility of a strap, made possible through additive manufacturing. As with any truly novel concept, the Polymesh strap likely needs to be experienced firsthand to be fully...
Monochrome
Once an American brand, now owned by the Swatch Group, Hamilton is a watchmaker with more than timepieces. It has fascinating stories to tell. We can’t forget the brand’s involvement in cinema, having been featured in over 500 movies since 1932 and its appearance in Shanghai Express, and then important features such as a futuristic […]
SJX Watches
Almost exactly a year after launching a special edition of the PRX celebrating the short-lived but much-loved Japanese anime series, Tissot returns with the PRX Grendizer 50th Anniversary Special Edition. Given its niche sensibility, the new addition to the PRX collection will fly under the radar for most watch buyers but should strike a chord with anime fans. Limited to 1,975 pieces, a nod to series’ debut 50 years ago, the watch is mostly standard PRX fare, but with an all-black finish and a lume-embossed dial depicting Grendizer, capped with an 18k gold seconds hand that references the hero’s signature weapon – the Double Harken. The upper section of the dial flange is engraved with the series’ Japanese title, “UFOロボ グレンダイザー” Initial thoughts Close on the heels of the RockWatch, the introduction of another limited edition of the PRX is telling. Tissot has long been the standard-bearer for value-priced watches within the Swatch Group portfolio, but value-oriented pricing can only get you so far; collectors buy watches because they are exciting. And the Grendizer is certainly that, managing to transform the widely appealing but somewhat generic ’70s look of the PRX into something more distinctive. In other words, it’s not trying to look like anything else. The watch itself is the familiar PRX, meaning it has an easy-wearing 40 mm case that’s a hair under 11 mm thick. But here the stainless steel case is coated with a black finish, and t...
Monochrome
Union Glashütte, one of the two Swatch Group brands located in the Saxon town of German watchmaking fame, next to higher-end manufacture Glashütte Original, manages to compete with its heavyweight neighbours thanks to its solidly built watches – often with vintage motorsport accents – but always recognised for their good value. With its close ties […]
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Worn & Wound
This has been a great year for American watchmaking. It just feels like there’s an interest in watches made in America that I haven’t really observed in years past. There are a few reasons for this, I think, including the continued uncertainty regarding tariffs placed on imported watches from Switzerland and elsewhere, as well as a handful of brands that are doing some very interesting things here in the United States, and rethinking what defines “American watchmaking” to begin with. And while I’m genuinely very excited about new brands like Cornell, 5280, Typsim, and a variety of others that bring new ideas to the American watchmaking landscape and are indeed actively producing components for their timepieces in America, it’s worth reminding ourselves that some brands have been doing interesting things on these shores for years. Roland Murphy is a legendary figure in contemporary American watchmaking, and for those of us celebrating a renewed interest in domestic watch manufacturing, Roland and his RGM brand need to be part of the conversation. RGM was founded in 1992, and Roland and his team have been consistently pushing the envelope forward in American watch production ever since. Based in Lancaster, PA (the historic home of Hamilton before the Swatch Group acquisition and a move to Switzerland) RGM produces a variety of watches that showcase American watchmaking in different ways. The catalog consists of watches with American made movements, dials decora...
Teddy Baldassarre
Mido is not one of the more widely familiar watchmakers in North America - though its watches have enjoyed a longstanding popularity south of the border, in Latin America - despite the fact that the brand, now owned by Swatch Group, has been around for a long time. It was founded on November 11, 1918, the same date of the armistice that ended World War I, by watchmaker Georges G. Schaeren (below) in the Swiss town of Biel-Bienne. Its name comes from the Spanish phrase Yo Mido, meaning “I Measure,” which may or may not indicate that Schaeren had always intended his products to appeal to a large Spanish-speaking audience. What is indisputable is that the Mido brand contributed some significant innovations to watchmaking in the 20th Century, few of which are often acknowledged. The company came up with one of the first solutions to waterproofing watch cases in 1930, developing a sealing system (below) that installed a watertight gasket made of cork between the crown and the case; Mido later named this invention “Aquadura.” The Mido Multifort, still produced today, debuted in 1934 and became the first antimagnetic watch with automatic winding. In 1945, Mido unveiled the Multi-CenterChrono, the first chronograph watch with a central display for the elapsed time, and in 1954 developed the Powerwind automatic winding system that increased efficiency by reducing the number of parts in the mechanism. Of all these milestones, it was the Aquadura waterproofing technolog...
Monochrome
Before becoming a Swiss brand and part of Swatch Group, Hamilton was an American watchmaker known for its military collections for both domestic and allied forces. In the 1970s, Hamilton continued this tradition with a chronograph for the British RAF (Royal Air Force) known as the Fab Four watch with a distinctive asymmetrical case. The latest […]
Time+Tide
The Swatch x Omega Bioceramic MoonSwatch is nothing short of a cultural phenomenon, but not all variants are equal...The post Every MoonSwatch released so far, ranked from best to worst appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
No other timepiece has had the same impact inside and outside the world of watches as the collaboration between Omega and Swatch.The post The MoonSwatch is the best thing to happen to the watch industry in the last 10 years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
Appointed to the top job at Breguet just under a year ago, Gregory Kissling trained as a movement constructor and spent most of his career leading Omega’s product development. A native of the Vallee de Joux, Mr Kissling is now in charge of one of the most revered names in watchmaking, which this year celebrates its 250th year. Aided by his background in product and long tenure at Swatch Group, the parent of Breguet, Mr Kissling is off to a running start. He has already made his mark with anniversary editions like the Classic Souscription, a simple but smart creation I rate highly, and holds ambitions to elevate the brand to where it should be. He was recently in Singapore to open Breguet’s new boutique in Ion Orchard, a mall on the city’s premier shopping street, and I got my first face-to-face with him since he assumed the role. We discussed his plans for the brand founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet, ranging from an increased emphasis on artisanal craft, to Breguet design, and even one-off or custom watches. The interview was edited for length and clarity. SJX: You have one of the most interesting and exciting jobs in the Swiss watch industry; you have taken over one of its greatest brands. Gregory Kissling (GK): It is a fantastic brand and every day I learn something new [about its history]. The heritage and legacy are immense. And also the fact that Breguet has a true manufacture – we produce everything in house but also thanks to the sister company of Swatch Grou...
Teddy Baldassarre
Here’s the headline: this summer, the namesake and flagbearer of the Glashütte watchmaking region, Glashütte Original, has opened its own, dedicated dial manufacture. You might be asking yourself, “I thought G.O. already did everything in-house, what’s the deal?” And while you would be right to ask, the basis of the question is also correct. Glashütte Original, while owned by Swatch Group, does, in fact, “do everything in-house,” or to be more specific: 95% of everything. However, up to this point, the dials for G.O. watches were made in a facility six hours away in Pforzheim. This move has brought production to a 5,000-plus-square-foot facility that is just a quick float down the babbling Muglitz River - 450 meters, to be exact. In a market where collectors are placing increasing importance on “in-house” everything, this is a big move for a company that has been preaching the Homemade Gospel from the Saxon hilltops for decades. Not only does this allow for more agile production timelines, but it increases G.O.’s production capabilities as a whole. G.O. brought me to Germany to see the new facility and to tour the full manufacture as well. In addition to the photos here, which won’t tell the full story, we also have a full video touring the manufacture. This sort of care for detail and attention to craftsmanship is deeply ingrained in the region, and in Glashütte Original as a brand. The people at this manufacture take the namesake very seriously...
Worn & Wound
It is a global phenomenon: some of the most exclusive independent watch brands have in the last five years created more accessible and more affordable sister brands or collections. These are undoubtedly linked to the main brand thanks to similar design features and a similar spirit. Just look at MB&F; and its M.A.D.Editions in Switzerland, Grönefeld and Grøne in the Netherlands, and Hajime Asaoka with Kurono Tokyo. Their normal offering is in the tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars, and now their sister brands offer watches for a few thousand – and you don’t have to wait for years to get a watch. Why are they doing this? What effect does it have on the general perception of the main brand? What are the collectors’ reactions to the more accessible offerings? Occasionally, it goes in the other direction. The Finnish brand Leijona’s Heritage 1907 Collection punches above its weight. It shows that a quartz based, mass market brand can make Swiss Made mechanicals together with a legend like Kari Voutilainen. We’ll get back to that. Just as we’ll get to Swatch’s recent collaborations with its fancier siblings within the Swatch Group. This phenomenon is all but new. Just look at Rolex and Tudor, the latter registered in 1926. “It was exactly the same as what we see today. Rolex founder (Hans) Wilsdorf wanted to offer high-quality watches at more affordable prices,” said watch expert Gianfranco Ritschel. Another example, half a century removed, is Cartie...
SJX Watches
Part I of our story on the evolution of hairspring materials covered temperature compensation along with the development of the first specialised balance spring alloy, Elinvar. The story brought us to the 1920s, when scientist and horologist Charles-Edouard Guillaume (1861-1938) finished his work on nickel-iron alloys and watchmakers begun embracing Elinvar springs paired with mono-metallic balances. In this second part we turn to newer hairspring alloys, like the now-ubiquitous Nivarox. Then we look at today’s landscape and the future, touching on research done by the Swatch Group with alternative, niobium-based alloys and also the specialised but obscure Seiko SPRON 610 hairspring. Lastly we discuss silicon springs, which are growing more prevalent across a range of timepieces. Elinvar’s weaknesses Elinvar was by far the greatest breakthrough in self-compensating alloy hairsprings at the time. Guillaume considered Elinvar good enough and not needing further improvement - unsurprisingly since he was its inventor - but other watchmakers and engineers continued to experiment with iron-nickel compounds because Elinvar’s inherent properties made it a good, but imperfect, material. Even though the alloy behaved predictably with temperature changes, its physical properties were not ideal to begin with. Elinvar was a soft metal, which posed its own suite of problems for spring applications. The importance of softness in terms of hairspring performance is not related ...
SJX Watches
Jaquet Droz is enjoying a good run with unique, dragon-themed watches. While last month’s debut was firmly in the mould of Anglo-Saxon fantasy lore, the Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold “Dragon Mask” is inspired by the Chinese dragon. A unique piece created at the behest of a client, like most of brand’s current repertoire, the Dragon Mask has an open-worked dial engraved and painted by hand – and set with emeralds – installed on a skeletonised, self-winding tourbillon movement. Initial thoughts Personalised commissions are, by definition, personal and not for everyone. This watch is over the top in its decoration, maybe even overdone to the point of kitsch, but I like it. Dragon-themed watches don’t always get the motif right – Breguet’s dragon was a little too fat – but this one is done well in its own way. The case is a little large for what it is, but the size is useful as it results in a larger canvas for the dial decoration. And because this is a Jaquet Droz, the execution, both in terms of dial and movement, will be good quality, as is usually the case with the high-end brands owned by Swatch Group. I imagine the client who commissioned this will be pleased – except maybe for the CHF450,000 price tag, which is steep but typical for a watch like this. A dragon in all its colours Despite its strikingly different look, the Dragon Mask is actually a variation of the clean and modern Tourbillon Skelet. Both share the same movement and case, but the Drago...
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Hodinkee
The latest in the roster of Omega x Swatch crossovers, this time with a bit of everything.
Worn & Wound
There’s almost nothing you can say to convince me the latest MoonSwatch, the not so elegantly named Mission to Earthphase Moonshine Gold, is not the product of a ChatGPT prompt entered by a Swatch exec. Maybe it said “What should the next entry in our never ending profit squeezing machine that is the MoonSwatch collection be called?” I can imagine an artificial intelligence suggesting something as silly, and also reminding the good people at Swatch that blue, and gold, and Snoopy are all very critical design characteristics that should be included. Honestly, I hope AI is the culprit. I’d hate to think that human beings at a brand that I hold in such high regard are responsible for such a shallow mismatch of buzzwords and incoherent thematic elements. Let’s take stock of what we’re looking at here. This is a Bioceramic, quartz MoonSwatch much like all the others. It follows the original Earthphase model from last year and includes not just a moonphase complication, but an “Earthphase” that depicts the “phase” of the earth as seen from the moon. Useful? No. Whimsical? Perhaps. There are a lot of little details though that are a bit of a grab bag of prior elements of MoonSwatches and Speedmasters of the past. Most notably, Snoopy and Woodstock are depicted right on the dial, watching the cosmic dance play out in front of them. The moons on the moonphase indicator are MoonShine gold plated. The graphical inspiration for the moonphase complication is the...
Worn & Wound
I’ve reached the age where I regularly feel the temptation to say things along the lines of “back in the day…” This applies to various things, such as life without smartphones, dial-up modems, and Napster, among others, but occasionally, it also applies to watches. You see, it wasn’t that long ago that things were quite different. Dive watches were all north of 40mm, in-house movements were rare under $5k, microbrands were dismissed as a passing trend, and, most relevantly to this review, mechanical chronographs under a certain price were primarily powered by Valjoux 7750s or a close variant. With sub-dials at 12, 6, and 9, day-dates at three, two-pushers, cam-actuated, and always automatic, approachably priced mechanical chronographs were limited in their design options. Even 3, 6, 9 layouts were rare, powered by 7753s or ETA 2894s, and often limited to Swatch group brands. The point is that in 2025, it’s almost hard to imagine a world of such limited chronograph options. Today, thanks largely to Sellitta, 3, 9, and 3, 6, 9 layouts are typical (I actually miss 12, 6, 9 now), monopushers are no big deal, manual winding is an option, flybacks, GMTs, and even column-wheels are on the table. Simply put, it’s a good time to be a chronograph fan. Yet, even in this golden-age of chronographs (ok, that might be a stretch), there is room to stand out. Enter Albishorn, which launched in 2024 with a series of chronographs powered by a bespoke movement, based on a fun r...
Teddy Baldassarre
Earlier this year we saw Swatch and Omega come together to release the fresh and unexpected MoonSwatch 1965, which paid direct homage to the 60th anniversary of the Speedmaster’s NASA flight qualification in – you guessed it – 1965. Today we are returning to a late 2024 release from Omega that took things back a bit further: three years, to be exact. I am referring to the “First Omega in Space,” a watch which harkens back to - congratulations, you guessed it again! - the first Omega to go into space. The year was 1962, the astronaut was Wally Schirra, and the Speedy reference was the 2998. In 2012, Omega launched the first “First Omega in Space,” henceforth referred to as the FOIS. In fact, I will refer to the 2012 version, with its black dial, as the FOIS 1. Omega launched the FOIS II in October of 2024 amid an absolute firestorm of buzzy releases. The release revived the model line which had lay dormant for about four years and brought it back with gusto. Today, we go hands-on with the current generation of the FOIS. First Omega In Space Case and Bracelet I had the chance to spend some time with this watch, one which I considered to be Omega’s best release of 2024 (yes, over the white-dial Speedy). The thing that really cemented that idea for me was the flat-link bracelet, an option not available on the FOIS 1. Putting this watch on, with its 39.7mm case diameter (consistent with the Ref. 2998), its straight lugs (standard Speedy lugs are twisted), ...
Monochrome
It’s been several years since the Swiss abandoned the truly affordable, sub-400-euro mechanical watch category. Once a gateway to Swiss mechanical watchmaking at reasonable prices, lower-end Swatch Group brands (Tissot and Hamilton) are now priced above that range. This situation, however, has been extremely beneficial to two Japanese giants, a sort of duopoly composed of […]
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Teddy Baldassarre
Is there a contemporary field watch as beloved and versatile as the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical? At this point the illustrious military history of the Khaki Field watch has been thoroughly explored (and if you’re not familiar with it, our resident historian Mark Bernardo has written an encyclopedic guide here). In short, Hamilton produced over a million watches for the United States military during World War II with its field watch in specific garnering praise for its universally consistent quality. This predecessor to the Khaki Field was a 34mm-wide field watch done in a chrome-plated metal case with radium lume dials and a manual-wind Caliber 987 movement. The modern Hamilton Watch Company was bought by the Swatch Group in 1974 with much of the production already having moved to Switzerland in 1969. The brand’s reassertion as a bonafide, authentic maker of military tool watches with historical provenance proliferated as an entire collection under the “Khaki” umbrella. While it was still producing watches for actual military units in the 1980s and ‘90s, Hamilton had done well by marketing to civilians once again in the wake of the Vietnam War. These early post-war civilian Hamilton Khaki watches were co-branded with retailers like Brookstone, Orvis, and L.L. Bean. This was also the time during which the “Khaki” logo began popping up on their dials. In 2018, Hamilton released the Khaki Field Mechanical which has gone on to be one of the most popular and b...
SJX Watches
The world of Swiss watchmaking is a small one; everyone seems to know everyone. This is especially true among the exclusive ranks of enamellers. In total, there are about 120 practicing enamellers in Switzerland, largely concentrated in Geneva, which has been a leading hub for fine enamelling for more the 400 years. Of these, four artisans have recently taken up residence at Émailleurs de la Cité (EC) in Geneva’s Old Town. A newly established enamel workshop founded by Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia and Florent Olivier Martin, EC crafts a small number of grand feu enamel dials annually for Mr Rexhepi’s own watches and for select clients like Biver. Though recently opened, the workshop has the feel of a mature and highly organised operation, benefiting from the obvious experience of the staff – Mr Martin was formerly the production director at the respected dial specialist Olivier Vaucher – and the attention to detail for which Mr Rexhepi is known. The enamel workshop is a fitting addition to his growing empire, and is conveniently located just steps away from Akrivia’s watchmaking atelier on Grand-Rue, the picturesque cobblestone thoroughfare that runs through the Old Town. The hand-engraved gratté pattern is applied personally by Mr Rexhepi. The art of enamel Brands like Patek Philippe consider enamel a “rare handcraft”, and for good reason. While industrial groups like the Swatch Group seem to have largely mastered the production of quality enamel dials at (v...
Fratello
Well, well, well… It appears that Certina isn’t standing still and allowing microbrands to have all the fun with color. The new DS-X GMT collection consists of five new models. One visited us at Fratello HQ, and it marks a real departure for Certina and the Swatch Group in general. Gear up for fun, affordable, […] Visit Hands-On With The Colorful New Certina DS-X GMT to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The day I visited Biver started like any other – with breakfast. But it wasn’t a normal breakfast, because I was seated opposite Jean-Claude Biver, at his own kitchen table. A few days after Watches & Wonders wrapped up I had the opportunity to visit the brand’s atelier in the countryside near Geneva, and I was lucky enough to spend some time with the man himself before he went to the airport; he was headed to Boston to deliver a guest lecture at Harvard Business School. Dismissed in his early career as a ‘nostalgia salesman,’ Mr Biver helped pioneer the contemporary luxury watch industry in the midst of the Quartz Crisis by proving the consumer demand for artisanal mechanical watches. The story is well-known but it bears repeating; Mr Biver, together with his friend Jacques Piguet, head of the esteemed Frederic Piguet manufacture, paid CHF22,000 to buy the rights to a defunct brand from what would later become Swatch Group. Their deft products and marketing made Blancpain one of the stars of the mechanical watch renaissance, allowing the pair to sell the brand back to Swatch a decade later for CHF60 million. From left to right: CEO James Marks, Jean-Claude Biver, and Pierre Biver. Image – Biver The success of Blancpain was extraordinary and helped pave the way for the rebirth of other brands like A. Lange & Söhne. But this was just the opening act. After selling Blancpain back to Swatch, Mr Biver helped put Omega on the wrist of James Bond and transformed Hub...
Worn & Wound
When it comes to watches from big, corporate owned brands, it’s sometimes hard these days to find designs that feel fresh and inventive. This just the way of the watch world. Particularly in an environment where it might be difficult to sell a watch (Swiss exports are down, tariff threats loom, etc) you can forgive the biggest brands for playing it safe, putting products on the market that they know will sell to their core customers. They might not be the most creative watches ever devised, but if they exhibit a “first, do no harm” mentality, that’s probably a win in the eyes of many brands. One of the things I’ve always appreciated about Rado is that it feels like they’ve been given a longer leash, and the opportunity to fully embrace what makes them unique among Swatch Group brands. Rado is, at their core, about materials, and they lead with design. Sure, the Captain Cook is a staple, and there are other watches in the Rado catalog that have a hint of the generic, but when I think about the brand, the watches that come to mind feature colorful ceramic and interesting shapes. The Anatom has been a favorite of mine since Rado reissued it a few years ago. It’s an 80s cult favorite, and the modern reinterpretation holds up remarkably well and offers a unique spin on the integrated bracelet sports watch trend. Rado has just announced a trio of new Anatoms in bright colors that should appeal to enthusiasts who might be after something colorful and a bit whims...
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