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Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).
Chronograph dial with high-contrast sub-counters. Vintage Daytona, Speedmaster CK 2998, Heuer Carrera; modern 116500LN, Tudor Chrono.
Chronograph scale converting flash-to-sound time into distance. WWI artillery-spotting origin; vintage Longines / Lemania / Heuer.
Chronograph scale reading heart rate in BPM after counting 15 or 30 pulse beats. The 1920s-60s doctor\'s watch standard.
Revolution
In part two of the series, after having found immense success with the time-only execution, BVLGARI takes the next giant leap in the evolution of the Octo Finissimo. Within a span of three short years starting in 2018, it would set records with an automatic flying tourbillon, chronograph GMT and finally the ultimate expression of […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Introduced in 1952, the Breitling Navitimer is the quintessential pilot's chronograph watch as well as one of the most instantly recognizable Swiss watches in the world. Aimed exclusively at professional pilots in its earliest versions, the Navitimer was instrumental in popularizing the pilot's watch genre for the general public, and it remains, in all of its various sizes, colorways, and aesthetic executions, the flagship of Breitling's modern-day collection. Here is the story behind the Breitling Navitimer and how it evolved into an icon of its field, along with an overview of Navitimers on the market today. The First Family of Chronographs (1884) German immigrant Léon Breitling (below, left) founded his eponymous watchmaking firm in Saint-Imier, Switzerland in 1884, devoted to producing precise stopwatches and other timing devices for use in military and industrial fields as well as competitive sports. The rise of both the automobile and the airplane in the early 20th century provided the inspiration for Breitling and his son Gaston, who took over the firm in 1914, to produce a number of historic innovations, several of them patented, that would influence the world of horology going forward. Léon launched one of the first timepieces with an eight-day power reserve in 1893, and a chronograph with an unprecedented ⅖-second accuracy in 1896. Gaston (below, center) is renowned today as the inventor of the first wrist chronograph with an independent pusher, separ...
Time+Tide
IWC’s recent partnerships with Pantone, Orlebar Brown, Hot Wheels and more have yielded a variety of takes on different models from their collection. Their latest collaboration sees a green-tinged, effort bound in leather, rubber and ceramic, as Filling Pieces, a Dutch footwear brand, pay tribute to IWC’s “Woodland” Pilot’s Chronograph, released at this year’s Watches and … ContinuedThe post IWC and Filling Pieces create the perfect watch + sneaker pairing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Wei and Jeremiah take a first look at the new IWC Portofino collection with watches in 34 and 37mm that are incredibly well executed. The day-night complication makes its debut in the Portofino and there is also a stunning 39mm Chronograph that will surely be a hit!
SJX Watches
Continuing with the vintage-inspired aesthetic that has informed many of its recent models, Habring² is elaborating upon its single-button chronograph. Now the brand’s flagship model, the Chrono Felix Perpetual is self-explanatory – a hand-wind Felix chronograph with a perpetual calendar module. As is typical for Habring², the Chrono Felix Perpetual (CFP) approaches the double complication in a practical and affordable manner. It’s powered by the brand’s own A11 base movement, while the calendar is the familiar and reliable Dubois-Depraz module. The CFP is making its debut in two variants: a “salmon” dial with Breguet numerals as well as a striking black-and-silver version for Massena Lab. The “salmon” dial model available from Habring² Initial thoughts Although Habring² introduced a split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar three years ago, the CFP feels like an all-new product. And it is, in fact, new in most tangible respects. The case is smaller while the movement has been dressed up and even incorporates an in-house escapement and balance assembly. The CFP is a handsome watch with surprisingly compact proportions. In fact, the CFP will feel like the standard Habring² Felix chronograph, since they share the same case middle with the CFP having a thicker bezel. The Massena Lab edition While both versions of the CFP have the same dimensions, they are aesthetics opposites despite both being vintage inspired. Habring²’s edition is a warm,...
SJX Watches
Sylvain Pinaud entered the independent watchmaking stage in 2019 when he revealed his monopoussoir chronograph that had an unusual dial-side mechanism and a high level of decoration. But he was working on something both more concise and more elaborate all along, the Origine. Launched earlier in 2022, the Origine is a wristwatch that pursues a familiar formula in independent watchmaking – a time-only movement finished extremely well and mostly made by the watchmaker himself, except for the dial and case that are the work of an industry favourite. But Mr Pinaud does it better than most with an original movement construction and gorgeous decoration, though he is clearly still perfecting his brand’s defining aesthetic. NB: The watch pictured is the prototype of the Origine so it is slightly imperfect in terms of cleanliness and detailing. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Origine might seem like one of many time-only rolled out by watchmakers who recently set up their own brands. But it stands apart in several aspects. For one, Mr Pinaud is an experienced watchmaker unlike many nascent independent watchmakers. Now in his forties, he graduated from watchmaking school in 1998 before embarking on a career that took him to Franck Muller as well as Carl F. Bucherer. And then there’s the quality of execution, which is extremely high. Not only is the movement an original construction by Mr Pinaud himself, the decoration is top class. In fact, a major part of the Origine’...
SJX Watches
Having launched a “panda” version earlier this year, Nivada Grenchen has unveiled another customised chronograph for its Dubai retailer. Clad in a striking olive-green, the Chronomaster Automatic “Perpétuel” Second Edition once again features Eastern Arabic numerals on the dial and bezel. Initial thoughts While the Second Edition is a repetition of the first in a different colour, it is undoubtedly more striking. Olive green is a fashionable colour today but it works well with the faux-vintage lume and retro style of the watch. More broadly, the vintage-inspired design also suits the calligraphic style of the Eastern Arabic numerals. Like the first edition, the new model costs almost double the standard Chronomaster. It’s a steep premium for a new dial, but the Eastern-Arabic numerals have a unique appeal, particularly in the Middle East. The only downside to the Second Edition is arguably the fact that it came second – some who bought the “panda” without knowing this was in the pipeline might have wanted to wait for this one instead. A sixties design The Second Edition is based on the Chronomaster Automatic, a sports chronograph produced by Nivada in the 1960s. Conceived as a multi-purpose chronograph for both divers and aviators, the Chronomaster is rated to 200 m but also has a countdown bezel and tachymeter scale – this also explains the text above six o’clock. Besides the olive green dial, the key feature of the Chronomaster Perpétuel are the Ea...
Hodinkee
Nothing says party like a pink gold Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT
Hodinkee
We're looking at the latest chronograph of the stars.
Deployant
A new (est 2018) French independent Depancel releases the Serie-A Stradale, a new neo-vintage inspired meca-quartz chronograph.
Deployant
IWC introduces new versions of the Portugieser Automatic and the Portugieser Chronograph, both featuring contrasting white and blue dials.
SJX Watches
Since it acquired Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps in 2012 Louis Vuitton has been steadily growing and refining its complicated watch offering. Last year it debuted the Carpe Diem minute repeater with automaton, the most complex watch LDFT has developed to date. But the signature completion of Louis Vuitton (LV) is still the patented three-dimensional jumping hours known as Spin Time. The complication relies on 12 cubes to indicate the hours, rotating one by one every hour. Since its introduction in 2009, the Spin Time has been iterated into a variety of formats, including a GMT, regatta countdown chronograph, and most recently a glow-in-the-dark extravaganza. But its most refined form is arguably the Spin Time Air launched in 2019 that has a dozen “floating” cubes arrayed around a movement suspended between the front and back crystals. Initial thoughts The Spin Time Air has all the elements of an interesting watch. Both transparent and striking, the “floating” display brings to mind historical mystery timepieces, with the tall Tambour case serving as the perfect frame for the suspended display. But it is the cubic hour display sets it apart. The hour display is truly unique, even when compared against the most exotic in independent watchmaking. It brings to mind Urwerk’s cubic display found in the UR-210, but that’s a three-dimensional reinterpretation of the wandering hours, whereas the Spin Time is actually an innovative take on the jum...
SJX Watches
A watch designer by profession, Richard Benc started Studio Underd0g in early 2020 during the lockdown in London, having previously designed watches for Braun, the German consumer goods maker famed for its shavers and industrial design. His brand got its start with a series of affordable mechanical chronographs defined by a quirky aesthetic, including examples modelled on the colours of watermelon and mint-chocolate chip ice cream. Now Studio Underd0g has taken the covers off its latest two-counter chronograph, Strawberries & Cream. Inspired by the colours of the eponymous desert, the watch was born from chance meeting from Miguel Seabra, a Portuguese journalist specialising in tennis and watches. A fan of Studio Underd0g from its inception, Mr Seabra and the brand’s founder shared a joke last year about the perfect dessert while watching tennis in summer, resulting in this edition. Initial thoughts While salmon is a fad, mechanical watches for men in bright pink are uncommon, which immediately sets Strawberries & Cream apart from its competitors. Admittedly this not the first pink dial from Studio Underd0g – the first was the Watermelon watch in bright green and pink – but this is arguably the more appealing since the colours simple go better together while being more wearable. The price-to-quality ratio of the Strawberries & Cream is good. The watch gets most things right. Both the case and dial are basic but interesting nonetheless, while the movement is a gentl...
SJX Watches
Based in the capital city of the Netherlands, Fratello Watches is a watch magazine best known for having coined the social media hashtag “Speedy Tuesday” dedicated to the Omega Moonwatch. But its latest announcement comes from the realm of independent watchmaking in the form of the Fratello x Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit 40 Chronograph Limited Edition. A new take on Louis Moinet’s signature chronograph, the Fratello edition will be available on its website on August 16. The 25-piece limited edition employs orange accents to dress up the open-worked aesthetic of the Memoris Spirit, which has a laterally-coupled, column wheel-equipped chronograph constructed on the dial. Initial thoughts More compact than past Louis Moinet chronographs, the Memoris Spirit 40 is wearable and lightweight, although it remains a notably thick watch due to the height of the movement. The height is justified because the watch is all about the movement, which is obviously interesting. All of the intricacies of the chronograph mechanism are exhibited on the dial, making it one of the few watches to have a traditional chronograph set-up visible on the front. However, the base movement relies on the architecture of the Valjoux 7750, which is a good thing from a reliability and functionality perspective, though one would hope for something fancier at this price point. The styling of the watch is simpler than the average Louis Moinet, but still elaborately conceived. The lugs, for instance, are ope...
Hodinkee
The brand's high-spec sporty chronograph gets a blue dial.
SJX Watches
Best known for supplying customised watches to air force squadrons, Breitling has less frequently made watches for civilian aviators, but the brand’s latest is a pair of watches created in partnership with one of the world’s best carriers. Each limited to 100 pieces, the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41 Singapore Airlines and Navitimer Automatic 38 Singapore Airlines are both dressed in the blue and gold livery of city state’s flag carrier. Initial thoughts For some two decades, Singapore Airlines (SIA) has consistently been ranked amongst the world’s best carriers by airline consultancy Skytrax, so the the tie-up is certainly a good one for Breitling. Fortunately SIA’s corporate colours are a pleasing blue and gold that work well on the Navitimer. The gold accents on the dial give it a slightly more retro feel than the standard models in steel, which uniformly have rhodium-plated markers and hands. For anyone who already likes either Navitimer model but wants something a bit more striking, the SIA editions certainly have their appeal. While the gold accents are appealing, they are the only element that distinguishes the dial of the SIA editions. The chronograph, for instance, is almost identical to the standard Navitimer 41 mm with a dark blue dial, with the only difference being the gold-plated hands and indices. This similarity to the respective standard models is probably the only shortcoming of either edition. Each edition is priced almost 10% more expensiv...
Hodinkee
A watch that commemorates the World Athletics Championships 2022 and Seiko's rich chronograph history.
SJX Watches
Launched in 2020 as a more wearable version of IWC’s signature large-format dress watch, the Portugieser Automatic 40 is a no-frills three-hander executed in a solid, workmanlike manner that is typical of the brand. Though novel for the current Portugieser line – it’s the smallest model in the lineup – the new automatic isn’t a wholly new idea. IWC did offer a “small” Portugieser some two decades ago, but Portugieser watches since then have been well over 40 mm in diameter. The large size of the various Portugieser models result from the movements, which either have a seven-day power reserve or chronograph, plus a few others that are even more complicated. That left a gap for a “small”, uncomplicated Portugieser. And so it has returned, combining the typical restrained aesthetics of the Portugieser line and the technical quality expected of IWC. Initial thoughts The Portugieser Automatic 40 is a wearable watch with a distinctive but classical aesthetic. Unlike its larger and more complicated counterparts in the Portugieser line, the 40 mm automatic is simple but still has the same recognisable aesthetic as well as a solidly engineered movement. It’s moderately sized, though a little thick due to the movement inside. The movement is a good one, which makes the case height acceptable, though a slimmer case would certainly be more appealing and also echo the vintage original more closely. The cal. 82200 Importantly, it is also eminently affordable. Con...
SJX Watches
Launched as part of the “Homage to F.A. Lange” 175th anniversary collection in HoneyGold two years ago, the 1815 Rattrapante was the only one of the trio that was all-new model. In fact, it was the German watchmaker’s first pure-play split-seconds chronograph, and surprisingly svelte by its standards. Though the anniversary edition sold out swiftly, the watch is making a comeback with a platinum case and silver dial. A pleasing and familiar combination most often seen on its simpler models, the silver-and-blue livery is uncommon for Lange chronographs, which tend to have dark-coloured dials, making the new split-seconds unusual. The anniversary 1815 Rattrapante Initial thoughts Essentially variation of the original with different case and dial, the new 1815 Rattrapante is still noteworthy because the original in HoneyGold was limited to only 100 pieces but deserved a broader audience because it was appealing on several levels. The watch is thin and understated, unlike most Lange complications, but nevertheless boasts a movement with the visual depth and impeccable decoration typical of the brand. While the new model has the standard movement decoration instead of a frosted finish, the most obvious difference between the two is on the front. The platinum version has an understated, tone-on-tone look that I prefer over the high-contrast look of the anniversary model. While the all-silver look may seem too simple at a glance, it’s been given a bit of life with red...
Deployant
Hanhart goes back to the roots of the most famous chronograph b re-launching the new 417 ES 1954 in the original case size of 39mm.
Deployant
The Krypton™ collection is gets a new model inspired by the Vanguard Racing Skeleton collection. The collection is known for its stylish engine-turned skeletonized dial, and is fit with two complications, a chronograph and a large date.
SJX Watches
Breitling’s recent releases have stuck to a familiar and effective formula – watches rooted in the brand’s heritage but updated to distinguish them as modern and original, exemplified by the redesigned Chronomat and Navitimer. Now the brand has taken the covers off the Superocean Automatic, a dive watch inspired by the SuperOcean Slow Motion chronograph of the 1960s. While it borrows the original’s two-tone dial and massive, oblong markers, the new Superocean is a clean, time-only watch with no complications and of course a modern construction that includes a ceramic bezel insert as well as quick-adjustment clasp. The SuperOcean Slow Motion ref. 2005 Initial thoughts I’ve always liked past versions of Superocean with bright-coloured dials because they were quite different from other dive watches without being overly fancy. By the same token, I like the latest version as the redesigned dial makes it stand out even more, once again without trying to do too much. No date is great In fact, the Superocean is arguably all about design. Being ETA powered, it is less competitive against offerings from similarly-priced offerings from likes of Tudor (which relies on more sophisticated Kenissi movements), so the Superocean has to excel in terms of look and feel. And it manages to do so with the combination of an extra-wide chapter ring around a “mini” dial, a bold and handsome design that is unlike most of its peers. Aside from the overall design, the dial also appe...
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 collection greatly expanded at this year’s Watches and Wonders, with no less than five new additions. Among those we find today’s offering - the Grand Seiko SBGC249 and SBGC251 Spring Drive Chronograph GMTs. The idea isn’t exactly novel for Grand Seiko; in fact, one of the models celebrates the 15th anniversary of … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGC249 and SBGC251 are complicated additions to the Evolution 9 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We review the new Hublot Big Bang Integral Chronograph in an all ceramic case and bracelet, available in multiple options for colours.
Time+Tide
In honour of Zenith’s exhibition “Master of Chronographs” that was held at Phillips in NYC this past week, what better time than the present to ensure we understand this legendary complication. Test your chronograph knowledge in the crossword below!The post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #11 “Mastering Chronographs” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A brand that made its debut just last year, Furlan Marri is all about affordable watches with retro style – just like many of its peers that entered the business around the same time. But the brand manages to set itself apart with a keen sense for design and details, something that was evident in its inaugural model, a quartz chronograph modelled on the Patek Philippe ref. 1463. Now the brand unveils something that’s arguably more compelling, the Reference 2116-A “Black Sector”. Once again vintage in style with compact proportions, the “Black Sector” is however automatic. Initial thoughts My first impression of the Reference 2116-A was positive. The styling is appealing and it is well priced, despite being a major step-up from the quartz chronograph in terms of case quality and the movement. In fact, the 2116-A is very well priced. It costs about US$1,250 but brings along fancy features such as artfully finished “cow horn” lugs, which is typically found on more expensive watches or actual vintage watches. At the same time, the watch is replete with retro details that collectors will like. That includes a properly proportioned dial where everything is laid out just nice, in contrast to many modern-day “sector” dial that can appear sparse. And the Breguet numerals may not be original or novel, but they are pleasing. As appealing as it is, the 2116-A still has a few shortcomings, at least for me personally. One is the wide cover for the central boss of th...
SJX Watches
MB&F; has just rolled out its very first chronograph, which becomes the second model in its EVO line of sports watches that began with the LM Perpetual EVO, now the brand’s bestselling watch. Christened the Legacy Machine Sequential EVO, the new chronograph continues with the same aesthetic of an open dial that reveals the mechanics along with a streamlined case. The LM Sequential EVO is most interesting for its movement, which is paradoxically complicated yet simple. Developed by Stephen McDonnell, a constructor who’s been a longtime collaborator with MB&F;, the movement is a double chronograph capable of recording twin times simultaneously along with a “Twinverter” mechanism that can either operate both chronographs or invert them – a complicated endeavour. But the setup is a simple one, essentially two discrete chronograph mechanisms that operate independently but linked by the inverter mechanism. Initial thoughts I was impressed by the LM Sequential EVO when I first saw the watch. It is a big, imposing watch with sleek lines and a wide face that is filled to the edges with intricate mechanics and quadruple sub-dials packed tightly together. Despite its size, the watch wears well due to the shape and length of the lugs, while looking like a grand complication on the wrist. And once I understood that it was a double chronograph, I was even more impressed; it looks even more complicated than the top contenders in the category, namely the Lange Triple Split and Au...
Deployant
MB&F; extends their Legacy Machine collection with the LM Sequential EVO - 2 separate chronograph mechanisms in 1 movement with multi mode timings.
Time+Tide
IWC’s longstanding fascination with aviation is well established, with the releases from this year’s Watches and Wonders continuing this high-flying heritage. Of the five new additions to the Pilot’s collection, our focus today falls on the Top Gun co-branded pieces – the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Top Gun and IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: These IWC and Top Gun pieces can be your wingmen anytime appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The TAG Heuer Monaco is an irrefutable classic. Which is why it is one of the select references we tackled in our series The Icons. Born in 1969, the Monaco changed the game as it was the first automatic, square and water-resistant chronograph. The watch gained further notoriety on the wrist of Steve McQueen in … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: TAG Heuer pays tribute to the Monaco “Dark Lord” with a new Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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