Worn & Wound
A History and Guide to Dive Watches
The post A History and Guide to Dive Watches appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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Worn & Wound
The post A History and Guide to Dive Watches appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Quill & Pad
The Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 is a new watch built like an old watch, and that’s exactly the point. Hand Made 1 isn’t the most complicated, conspicuous, or inventive Greubel Forsey watch, but it looks backwards to point the way forward.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, it’s time for the second installment of our series on affordable watches. Last week, we discussed our favorite mechanical watches under €500 from big brands. This second article focuses on the best watches for under €500 from small brands. Call them independents or microbrands, you get the idea. The […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Small Brands to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Former Seiko ambassador Paul de Gelder's latest show, 'How to Survive a Shark Attack', sees him deliberately encouraging sharks to bite him.The post Australian shark attack survivor Paul de Gelder comes back for a second bite with new documentary series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
De Bethune once again has a single-button chronograph to its line-up with the compact DB25 Monopusher Chronograph. Styled after the DB8 from the brand’s early years, the DB25 chronograph has a smaller case but a larger, more refined movement. Importantly, it is most accessible chronographs from the brand in recent memory, both in size and price. Initial Thoughts I hold De Bethune in high regard for its technical ambition and an idiosyncratic design language that blends aesthetic codes from the 18th and 23rd centuries. The distinctive aesthetics were largely the brainchild of cofounder Davide Zanetta, who unfortunately departed the brand several years ago. Fortunately, however, both traits are alive and well in the DB25 Monopusher Chronograph. For several years the brand lacked a conventional chronograph, and I see the new DB25 as the brand’s long-term solution to that problem. Likely shaped by feedback on the recent DB Eight, the DB25 Monopusher has everything it needs to be a staple of the brand’s line-up – moderate sizing, good looks, and complementary calibre. Though based on the brand’s prior chronograph movements, the DB3000 inside the DB25 is interesting in several respects. For one, it retains the oscillating pinion found in the long-ago DB1. The oscillating pinion isn’t well regarded by collectors, seen as less advanced than a vertical clutch and without the theatre of a horizontal coupling. It is possible to make a handsome chronograph with an oscillat...
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Teddy Baldassarre
Generally speaking, most watch consumers tend to prefer watch designs that are - for lack of a better term - approachable, the kind of style that can be worn every day without drawing an undue amount of attention. Class is often associated with being understated, after all. For most enthusiasts, design, craftsmanship, mechanical complexity, and value for dollar are all subjectively weighed in an effort to determine the most appropriate timepiece decision. Naturally, the result is that the watch industry focuses a great deal of its effort on practical designs intended to please a large percentage of the population in an ultimate effort to sell. Outliers and more novel designs are considered risky and are often left behind in the race for mass-market appeal. But what if, some independent watchmakers ask, you’ve simply had enough of brands cutting-and-pasting each other’s designs? We’ve all noted, “That’s more or less a Rolex Submariner,” one too many times when seeing the latest "new" piece. Let's say that sometimes you may want something different and maybe even a little bit crazy. And for the sake of argument, and for a more comprehensive list, let's also say you have a nice chunk of money to spend. Sure, you could take your cash and make an informed, reasonable decision to keep on fitting in with all the other watch nerds on your Instagram feed, but this list is for enthusiasts interested in the road less traveled, searching for different, interesti...
Worn & Wound
There’s a universal appeal to the idea of the hidden gem. Whether it’s a watch, a movie, or a vacation destination, we all enjoy reveling in the underrated to some extent. It’s part of that sense of discovery that draws us to an enthusiast pursuit in the first place. As the watch world, and enthusiasm around the hobby grows, it gets harder to identify watches that are truly underrated – every watch seems to have its moment in the sun. We thought it would be fun to identify a handful of watches that feel genuinely underrated at this particular moment, all under $5,000. Let us know your picks in the comments! Zach Kazan – Tudor Black Bay P01 It was surprisingly challenging for me to think of the right underrated watch to discuss here. One of the problems with the way we talk about watches in 2025 is that everything, from the most mundane, black dialed diver, to highly experimental haute horlology, is heaped with praise. It’s not that the praise isn’t always warranted – there are a lot of great watches out there – but the inverse of this question, the most overrated watches on the market, would probably be a little easier to respond to. But, in the interest of keeping things positive, we thought, for now, we’d try to shine a light on some watches that don’t get enough attention. Usually when we’re creating a group oriented list like this, my mind immediately goes to the independents. You could say I’m always trying to highlight the underrated s...
Worn & Wound
Formex has a new watch, and, despite the name, it has absolutely nothing to do with the classic Hanna-Barbera character, or his eponymous talk show, Space Ghost Coast to Coast. Still, the Formex Essence “Space Ghost,” the latest addition to Formex’s seemingly ever-expanding Essence collection, is here, and brings a new dimension, a new dial, and some impressive new quality of life improvements to the incredibly popular line of everyday sports watches. The biggest headline here is that the new “Space Ghost” comes in at 41mm across, a new dimension for the Formex Essence, falling squarely between established 39mm and 43mm options.The new Essence is more than a hastily resized version of either of these pre-existing models though. The watch - which is powered by the same Sellita SW200-1 COSC-certified movement as its larger and smaller siblings - though unmistakably an Essence, entirely reworks the proportions of the model. The watch is still thin, at 10.6mm, and compact, with a 46.5mm lug-to-lug. It also keeps the 22mm lug width of the 43mm Essence, so most of their existing strap line will be compatible with the new watch. Two piece straps are all compatible with Formex’s existing carbon fiber deployment clasp with integrated, on-the-fly micro-adjust, but the real story on the wrist is the revised bracelet design. The new bracelet hosts a bunch of small upgrades, including new screws that eliminate the need for Loctite or any equivalents, but the most notice...
Monochrome
Since its introduction in 2002, the Seamaster Aqua Terra has gained the status of the all-terrain watch by Omega, as its name suggests. Despite its clear nautical inspiration, this watch is your perfect everyday all-rounder, capable of tackling most environments and still look classy when needed. By now, the collection has grown to include virtually […]
Fratello
Calling the new Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Turquoise watches in 38 and 41mm summer watches would sell them short. Because of the vibrant turquoise dial with a black gradient effect, these two newcomers don’t look like “Ibiza watches,” but more like timepieces in the style of Terceira Island in the Portuguese archipelago of the Azores. […] Visit Introducing: New Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Turquoise Watches In 38 And 41mm to read the full article.
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Fratello
Since we’re celebrating the 80th birthday of the Rolex Datejust, we thought it would be a good idea to have Fratello writers pick their favorite one of all time. The biggest challenge of writing an article in the tail-end of this Datejust series is that other writers have already claimed some of my favorite picks. […] Visit Turning Visual Brilliance Up To Eleven With A White Gold Rolex Datejust With A Burl Wood Dial to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex adds its first GMT to the Marlin collection. Priced from $199, the new Marlin Quartz GMT blends vintage design with travel-ready function.
Fratello
This week, on Fratello Talks, RJ, Thomas, and Nacho are asking the question: Does storytelling still sell watches? For decades, brands have built emotional bridges to their customers with tales of adventure, endurance, and achievement. Think of the watches strapped to astronauts on lunar missions, divers exploring the ocean’s depths, or pilots navigating across continents. […] Visit Fratello Talks: Does Storytelling Still Sell Watches? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) has just announced a majority stake in Inhotec, a supplier of components for high-end mechanical movements. Long a supplier to AP, Inhotec produces parts ranging from base plates to springs, in both raw and fully decorated states. The value of the deal was not revealed, but founder Alexandre Eme will retain a minority stake and continue to serve as chief executive of Inhotec, which was founded in 2011. According to the announcement, AP will “provide strategic and financial support” while leaving Inhotec to retain “operational autonomy” over “managerial decisions, industrial activities and commercial relationships”. Lucas Raggi, the chief industrial officer of AP, explains the acquisition “is about consolidating key strategic skills and supporting the continuity of an expertise that is essential to the future of haute horlogerie“. AP’s acquisition of Inhotec reflects two trends. One is the longstanding and continued development of AP’s production capabilities, exemplified by the recent inauguration of the expansive Arc manufacture in Le Brassus. The other is macro, a slowdown in business for specialised suppliers across the watchmaking value chain.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Omega Speedmaster, aka the Moonwatch, is one of the most legendary and collectible watch models in the world. Originally conceived as a wristwatch for race car drivers, it has since become much more associated with its pivotal role in history as the watch used by the astronauts on the Apollo 11 mission in 1969, thus making it the first watch worn on the moon. Now the undisputed centerpiece of the modern Omega watch portfolio, the original Speedmaster has not only changed very little from the timepiece that symbolized America’s Space Race supremacy more than 50 years ago; it has also given rise to dozens of special editions, innovative variations, and the use of bold new technologies and avant-garde materials in the pioneering spirit of early space exploration. 1957: A YEAR OF MASTERY The Space Race that dominated the 1960s had yet to kick off in 1957, the year that Omega, a Swiss watch manufacturer founded in 1848, released a trio of sport-oriented tool watches with “Master” in their names, all descended stylistically from the first Seamaster of 1948, one of the first waterproof dress watches. One was the Seamaster 300, an evolution of the original that was built for deep-sea diving (I explore the Seamaster collection in depth here). The second was the Railmaster, a watch aimed at scientists and technicians whose technical hallmark was its extreme magnetic resistance (more on the Railmaster here). The third, and most influential, was the Speedmaster, which as i...
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SJX Watches
Now into the second half of its second century, Piaget unveiled the Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase, an eccentric entrant in the crowded field of luxury sport watches. The charm of the watch lies in its unusual feature set: an extravagant dial and easy wearing format, which includes interchangeable rubber and leather straps. Housed in a sleek, 44 mm titanium case, the Polo Flying Tourbillon is the most complicated watch in the Polo collection since the underrated Polo Tourbillon Relatif introduced two decades ago. Initial thoughts I have a soft spot for watches like the Polo Flying Tourbillon that don’t fit neatly into any pre-conceived category. It’s risky to make watches like this; watches that look a bit odd on the spec sheet but feel good on the wrist. On one hand, it’s overtly sporty with a titanium case, a rubber strap, and a robust 100 m water resistance rating thanks to dual gaskets in the crown. Looked at from another perspective, it’s a piece of true industrial-haute horlogerie with a flying tourbillon and a thoughtfully executed pointer-style moonphase indicator, sans date. This last detail stands out to me, because the date and moonphase complications usually go hand-in-hand. To be clear, I don’t miss the date; its absence contributes to the care-free nature of the watch. The 44 mm titanium case looks large on paper, and indeed, the diameter is accentuated by its 9.8 mm case height, which is on the thinner side as such things go. But the Polo wears w...
Deployant
Konstantin Chaykin and Behrens present a new collaboration...with a curiously notorious name: presenting the Kremlin Edition.
Fratello
UK-founded independent watchmaker Isotope Watches made a name by releasing remarkable watches that stood out through their original designs, whimsical details, and robust engineering. The brand helps you break from convention and embrace the eccentric side everybody has, no matter how deeply tucked away. You could do that with the four new Isotope Watches Hydrium […] Visit Introducing: Four Unique New Isotope Watches Hydrium Limited Editions to read the full article.
Fratello
I’ve written several articles about Armin Strom. From normal reviews to a closer look at the brand’s resonance calibers, it’s fun to take a closer look at this brand. But why is that? In my view, the brand stands out among other haute horlogerie brands for several reasons. The watches seamlessly combine technical chops in […] Visit Not Another Indie: How Armin Strom Stands Out in a Crowded Playing Field to read the full article.
Deployant
Favre Leuba continues to beef up their collection with a brilliant purple colourway addition to the Chief Date Royal Purple Collection.
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Time+Tide
The romance of wearing a wristwatch is a passion we all want to pass on to the next generationThe post Best watches for kids if you want to start ’em young appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Panda-dial watches - a category of chronographs that derive their nickname from their two-tone dial colorways, generally defined by black subdials on a white main dial - have gone from a niche favorite to a widely popular genre for collectors and enthusiasts, who prize their high-contrast sharpness and legibility. Even in an era of watchmaking when bolder and brighter colorways seem more dominant than ever, there is something about the black-and-white simplicity of pandas, and their mirror-image cousins, the so-called “reverse pandas” (white subdials on black dial), that still strike a chord. Here are 18 of our favorites. Dan Henry 1964 Chronograph Price: $300, Case Size: 38mm, Thickness: 12.9mm, Lug-to-Lug: 44.7mm, Lug Width: 19mm, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Seiko VK63 Mechaquartz A longtime watch collector, and founder of the historical-watch website Timeline Watch, Dan Henry established his eponymous watch brand in 2016, inspired by his extensive collection of vintage pieces to produce contemporary watches with recognizably retro design language. Each Dan Henry watch model is limited and numbered, and named after the year from which it draws its main aesthetic influence. The mechaquartz-powered 1964 Gran Turismo Chronograph brings to mind iconic racing watches born in the ‘60s like the Heuer Carrera and Rolex Daytona, and Dan Henry makes it in both 36mm and 38mm case sizes, with either a two- or three-register dial design, with o...
Hodinkee
In the past five years in particular, the market for watches and jewelry feels like a rollercoaster – here's how to make the best of the ride, according to the experts.
Fratello
The latest creation to leave Qian GuoBiao’s bench is the Double Balance Wheel, a watch that takes a quieter approach than his last major release, Facing The Sky 2.0. By contrast, Double Balance Wheel is stripped back to the essentials. It is about balance, proportion, and mechanical harmony. And yet, it is already making its […] Visit Qian GuoBiao’s Double Balance Wheel Proves Less Can Still Impress to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Having re-emerged in 2021 with the debut of his new brand and the launch of the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero, Franc Vila is back with the FVF1 Tourbillon Superligero “Today”, a watch that challenges conventional notions of timekeeping with a good-humoured twist on the traditional day of the week display. Leveraging its predecessor’s ultralight 42.5 mm titanium case and integrated flying tourbillon movement, the Today questions the difference between the days of the week, with a day roller that displays the word ‘today’ in a different font for each day. While over time the wearer might learn to associate particular fonts with particular days, the otherwise functional day roller is intended to be a reminder to not take things too seriously – today is all we have. Initial thoughts I didn’t really know what to expect the first time I stepped off the elevator into Mr Vila’s brightly lit, attic workshop in Geneva’s Saint Gervais neighbourhood. The workshop itself is part of the story, housed in what was once very likely home to a cabinotier, a term that refers to a watchmaker operating from a rooftop workshop once favoured by Genevan watchmakers of old, who preferred to work where they could get plenty of natural light. Beyond the typical watchmaking equipment, and even some atypical equipment like a perlage machine with a mysterious past, the workshop is packed with contemporary art from Mr Vila’s personal collection. Talking with him about these sources o...
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