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The Swatch Group

Largest Swiss watch employer (~17,000 staff). 18 brands from Breguet/Blancpain at the top to Swatch at entry. ETA SA + Nivarox-FAR. Hayek family controls.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain Jun 17, 2025

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

[This feature article has been updated to incorporate the newest models – including the new 42mm and 38mm sizes – in the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms collection as of 2025. Prices listed are current as of this article's posting but subject to change.] Founded in 1735 in Villeret, Switzerland, Blancpain is the oldest luxury watchmaker in the world, full stop. The 287-year-old manufacture, now headquartered in Le Brassus in the Swiss Vallée de Joux, has an uninterrupted history of producing horological complications but its most iconic timepiece in this modern era began its life as a tool watch for military divers in the (relatively) recent year of 1953. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, however, is not just any tool watch; it’s recognized as one of the foundational examples of the modern dive watch, helping to establish a template that many others would follow. Today, it’s the foundation for a vast and versatile collection within the Blancpain portfolio - despite the fact that the watch almost didn’t make it out of the 1970s.  DIVING INTO HISTORY The quest to make a watch water-resistant enough for diving was already well underway when Jean-Jacques Fiechter, then-CEO of Blancpain, began working on the watch that would become the Fifty Fathoms. Rolex had developed the water-resistant Oyster case in 1926, which paved the way for watches such as Panerai’s Radiomir in 1936, which combined a waterproof case with a luminous dial for the underwater missions of the Italian n...

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Up Close: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon SJX Watches
Casio nally controversial lugs give Jun 17, 2025

Up Close: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon

Urban Jürgensen has been revived in fine style thanks to its investors and of course Kari Voutilainen. With the Finn in charge of watchmaking, the reborn brand made its debut with a trio of watches led by the flagship Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon. Inspired by the Oval pocket watch made by Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen, the UJ-1 is impressive in its execution, from construction to decoration. The quality is evident across the watch, which is unsurprising given Mr Voutilainen’s role in its conception and production. And the occasionally controversial lugs give an otherwise classical watch a distinct character. Initial thoughts The fine details of the UJ-1 are easily apparent in the metal. The movement decoration and construction are both impeccable, and so is the guilloche on the dial. But it is details like the engine turned case back and typography that give the UJ-1 that little bit of extra refinement. It is obvious from the photos, the movement quality is outstanding. Frosting, black polishing, chamfering, and so on – all are expertly accomplished. Moreover, all of the decoration is done in a traditional, often manual manner, rather than being mostly done by machine and then finished off by hand as is increasingly the case now. But finishing is merely the more obvious aspect of the appeal. The construction of the movement is equally impressive. It captures the style of the Oval pocket watch, including the three-dimensionality and clean aesthetics. Even though...

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Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin Unveil a Third Round of their “Time Eater” Collaboration Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Jun 16, 2025

Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin Unveil a Third Round of their “Time Eater” Collaboration

Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin, the only Russian member of the AHCI, have teamed up once again for a new batch of their hit “Time Eater” collaboration. It’s been about two years since their first collaboration, which was an immediate hit for both parties and sold out quickly. A follow up limited edition came a few months later, this one much darker in tone, both in terms of the dial and case, and also the mood of the piece- that bloodshot eye really leaves an impression. For their third release, Chaykin and Louis Erard have returned to their original idea, offering a pair of watches that fans of the original who might have missed out will likely be quite interested in taking a look at when they go on sale in a few days.  The fact that this collaboration exists at all is one of the things we like most about Louis Erard as a brand. They’ve really found a niche in developing limited edition projects with interesting collaborators both in and outside of the watch industry. A watchmaker like Konstantin Chaykin, who has risen to prominence in recent years with his “Wristmons” series of watches, makes watches that are likely out of reach for most collectors. But through Louis Erard, Chaykin, along with watchmakers like Stefan Kudoke and Vianney Halter, brings his design ethos down to earth, making it approachable to enthusiasts who admire his work but would never be able to spend tens of thousands on a single piece. Together with Louis Erard, Chaykin has essentia...

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30 Best Field Watches For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Jun 16, 2025

30 Best Field Watches For Every Budget

Field watches are among the most straightforwardly utilitarian of timepieces, deriving their design and functionality from early 20th century timepieces worn by soldiers and other military operators “in the field,” hence the umbrella term. While they will vary in their design elements and details, field watches (earlier models were also called “trench watches,” a reference to their usage in the trench warfare of World War I) are recognizable for a handful of elements that are mostly omnipresent: clean, highly legible dials with few if any superfluous subdials (some use a small seconds display); luminous hands and numerals; big, readable hour markers (mostly Arabic numerals, occasionally indexes; the "purist" version of a field watch dial likely includes a 12-hour scale with an additional 13-24-hour ring for military time, as you'll note in many of the models here); and a general sense of toughness and reliability while being understated in both size and design (the smaller and lighter the watch, the less burden on a soldier already loaded with gear). Many of these qualities also define the style elements of early pilot's watches, with which field watches share many MIL-SPEC similarities, hence the occasional crossover model. Here are 25 modern-day field watches (or watches that tick the "field watch" boxes nicely) that are on the market in 2022. For browsing and shopping convenience, we list them in ascending order of price, from everyday models around $200 to luxu...

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Louis Erard & Konstantin Chaykin Return with “Time Eater” III SJX Watches
Louis Erard & Konstantin Chaykin Return Jun 16, 2025

Louis Erard & Konstantin Chaykin Return with “Time Eater” III

Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are closing their “Time Eater” collaboration with the final pair in the series, the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin III Blue and Red. Retaining the familiar “cyclops” regulator dial inspired by the Russian watchmaker’s Wristmons, the new pair will be the last collaboration between the two in this format. Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are working on future collaborations, but those will be in a different style. The blue version is 42 mm and available only from Louis Erard, while the red model is 39 mm and will be sold only by Konstantin Chaykin. The 42 mm model in blue Initial thoughts Louis Erard has done a great number of collaborations with independent watchmakers, but the Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater ranks amongst the best of them. Like the second Vianney Halter collab, the Time Eater captures the spirit of the watchmaker’s original creation while being affordable. I look forward to the next collaboration with Mr Chaykin, because I am sure it will be interesting. Admittedly the latest pair are only a cosmetic tweak on the earlier editions, but the Time Eater is still an appealing concept that’s priced right. Both versions adopts the standard Louis Erard regulator case, which makes it a little too thick, but that’s an acceptable compromise for affordability. The two are the third Time Eater project, and Louis Erard chief Manuel Emch has confirmed they will close the Time Eater regulator series. The ...

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W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Zenith Jun 15, 2025

A Week in Watches Eps. 103 + 104: We’re Live!

A couple of weeks ago, we did a little experiment. Rather than filming and editing A Week in Watches, as had been the method for the previous 102 episodes, we live-streamed it. Yup, off the cuff, come as you are, talking right into the camera: A Week in Watches Ep. 103: Live on YouTube. It went well, as far as we can tell. We quickly learned a thing or two, such as not to put large microphones in front of our faces. As that episode was an experiment in the format, we didn’t let anyone know we were doing it, though there was still a decent turnout. You can check that episode out here. As the experiment was successful, we went live again this past Wednesday at 5 PM Eastern for A Week in Watches, Ep. 104. On this episode, Zach Weiss was joined by Worn & Wound Contributing Editor Griffin Bartsch. They covered several releases, including a new Seiko Presage, a duo of J.N. Shapiros, a killer new Zenith, and much more. They also took questions live from the virtual audience, which adds a whole new dimension to AWIW, and had a call-in from Zach Kazan, who discussed some of his recent popular articles. Check out that episode below. We believe this new format will be successful, so expect another episode in a couple of weeks. We’ll be sure to post the time and date on social media, W&W;+, as well as on YouTube, so be sure you’re subscribed so you don’t miss it. These episodes are quite literally live, so we hope to see you there! The post A Week in Watches Eps. 103 + 104: We...

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Sunday Morning Showdown: BA111OD Chapter 7 Vs. Citizen Zenshin 60 Fratello
Citizen Zenshin 60 Another Sunday Jun 15, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: BA111OD Chapter 7 Vs. Citizen Zenshin 60

Another Sunday, another showdown! This week, we pit two sub-€1k sports watches with integrated bracelets against each other. In the blue corner, we have Daan defending the Citizen Zenshin 60. Meanwhile, in the red corner, we have Thomas with the BA111OD Chapter 7. Let’s see who delivers the knockout punch this week! Of course, before […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: BA111OD Chapter 7 Vs. Citizen Zenshin 60 to read the full article.

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Retrospective: Lost In Bosnia With A Land Rover And An Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” Fratello
Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” My Jun 14, 2025

Retrospective: Lost In Bosnia With A Land Rover And An Omega Speedmaster “Ed White”

My Speedmaster “Ed White,” 10 years older than my car, made the trip almost untouched. I can’t say the same about my Land Rover, which left me behind three times due to fuel-delivery issues. Otherwise, it was one beautiful trip full of dust, off-the-grid gravel roads, majestic views, jokes on walkie-talkies, dreaming in the forest, […] Visit Retrospective: Lost In Bosnia With A Land Rover And An Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” to read the full article.

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Fratello’s Top 5 Summer Watches For 2025 - Featuring Doxa, Farer, Seiko, And More Fratello
Seiko Jun 13, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Summer Watches For 2025 - Featuring Doxa, Farer, Seiko, And More

With summer quickly approaching for many of us, it’s time to start thinking about your watch for the long summer days. Some of us will swap a bracelet for a colorful strap, while others will make it their mission to find a new timepiece for the season. We picked five of our recently released favorites […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Summer Watches For 2025 - Featuring Doxa, Farer, Seiko, And More to read the full article.

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Seiko Celebrates 50 Years of “Jaws” with Turtle Diver SJX Watches
Seiko Celebrates 50 Years Jun 13, 2025

Seiko Celebrates 50 Years of “Jaws” with Turtle Diver

Seiko marks 50 years since the release of Steven Spielberg’s landmark thriller about a killer shark with the Seiko Prospex JAWS 50th Anniversary Limited Edition. Based on the vintage-inspired “turtle” remake, the Jaws edition will be available only in Japan, United States, Australia, and Taiwan, and is limited to 5,000 examples. Initial Thoughts The Jaws anniversary edition is thoroughly Jaws themed, but subtle enough to blend in alongside the Save the Ocean and PADI special editions. This, combined with the sub-US$1,000 price point, makes for a competent, well-priced automatic dive watch means the watch will appeal to more than just fans of the film. A Jaws-themed dive watch is also a more natural fit than many of Seiko’s other pop-culture themed crossovers, especially since Hooper, one of the film’s protagonists, wears a cushion-cased diver. Don’t go in the water The bi-color dial takes inspiration from the iconic film poster by Roger Kastel. And, the embossed ripping water pattern also conceals the shark itself, which is only visible from certain angles. The Jaws logo below the hands matches the typography of the poster perfectly. The theming continues on the case back, with the fishing boat from the film, Orca, and the shark’s dorsal fin laser etched on the back, along with the limited edition number. The bezel sports a ceramic insert in dark blue Otherwise, it is a standard Seiko “King Turtle” with a 45 mm cushion case that’s water resistant to 20...

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Visit: A Look Inside Biver Watches SJX Watches
Blancpain one Jun 13, 2025

Visit: A Look Inside Biver Watches

The day I visited Biver started like any other – with breakfast. But it wasn’t a normal breakfast, because I was seated opposite Jean-Claude Biver, at his own kitchen table. A few days after Watches & Wonders wrapped up I had the opportunity to visit the brand’s atelier in the countryside near Geneva, and I was lucky enough to spend some time with the man himself before he went to the airport; he was headed to Boston to deliver a guest lecture at Harvard Business School. Dismissed in his early career as a ‘nostalgia salesman,’ Mr Biver helped pioneer the contemporary luxury watch industry in the midst of the Quartz Crisis by proving the consumer demand for artisanal mechanical watches. The story is well-known but it bears repeating; Mr Biver, together with his friend Jacques Piguet, head of the esteemed Frederic Piguet manufacture, paid CHF22,000 to buy the rights to a defunct brand from what would later become Swatch Group. Their deft products and marketing made Blancpain one of the stars of the mechanical watch renaissance, allowing the pair to sell the brand back to Swatch a decade later for CHF60 million. From left to right: CEO James Marks, Jean-Claude Biver, and Pierre Biver. Image – Biver The success of Blancpain was extraordinary and helped pave the way for the rebirth of other brands like A. Lange & Söhne. But this was just the opening act. After selling Blancpain back to Swatch, Mr Biver helped put Omega on the wrist of James Bond and transformed Hub...

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Tudor Black Bay 54 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Jun 12, 2025

Tudor Black Bay 54 Review

Making its debut at the 2023 edition of Watches & Wonders, the Tudor Black Bay 54 caused something of a riot with its dead-on vintage reimagining of the Oyster Prince Submariner Reference 7922 from, you guessed it, 1954. Truly, apart from some dial text details and a more contemporary handset, you could easily mistake one for the other from across a room. For fans of historically sized divers, this was pure catnip, without the accompanying headaches associated with vintage watches, most notably, fragility and authenticity. The larger blue Black Bay 58 (left) next to the 37mm Black Bay 54 (right) Getting both the look and a warranty proved to be impossible to resist, leading to waiting lists at ADs and plenty of Instagram FOMO. Let’s face it, many collectors are more attuned to the stylistic path that Tudor has taken in recent memory, with an aesthetic that’s more tool than jewel. The Tudor of yore was a more attainable Rolex, with models like the Tudor Sub nearly identical to the Rolex version, apart from the movement within. But as Rolex has sized up and blinged out, the two corporate siblings’ paths have diverged, with Tudor more than happy to scoop up the business of enthusiasts who prefer a retro feel in their timepieces. Like many armchair super-spies, I’m all-in on a watch that wouldn’t be out of place on Connery’s wrist in Thunderball, despite having never once fired a speargun. So now that the dust has settled and the BB54 has been out in the wild for ...

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Introducing Two New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm Models “For Women” Fratello
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm Jun 12, 2025

Introducing Two New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm Models “For Women”

Please don’t call it a size reduction; it’s a completely reworked design to get perfectly balanced proportions. Introducing two new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm models for women. Yes, Blancpain tells us explicitly that these new “FF” models are for women only. That’s not very 2025, but in the brand’s defense, these watches pay tribute […] Visit Introducing Two New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm Models “For Women” to read the full article.

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