Hodinkee
This New IWC Is Made From The Same Materials As A F1 Car
The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “AMG” is firing on all cylinders.
Results for Chronograph
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Wiki · Guide
El Primero Zenith
Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).
Wiki · Guide
Panda / Reverse Panda Dial
Chronograph dial with high-contrast sub-counters. Vintage Daytona, Speedmaster CK 2998, Heuer Carrera; modern 116500LN, Tudor Chrono.
Wiki · Guide
Telemeter Scale
Chronograph scale converting flash-to-sound time into distance. WWI artillery-spotting origin; vintage Longines / Lemania / Heuer.
Wiki · Guide
Pulsometer Scale
Chronograph scale reading heart rate in BPM after counting 15 or 30 pulse beats. The 1920s-60s doctor\'s watch standard.
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Hits Its Stride
A slimmer steel case and vintage vibe for Tudor's modern chronograph.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The new Fratello x Nomos Zürich Weltzeit “The Hague” Limited Edition
What is the pinnacle of time telling? Some would say accuracy. Others would say it’s the ability to count time as experienced with a chronograph. I would argue that nothing beats the benefit of a world timer. To be able to quickly reference a time, anywhere around the world, is almost a magical experience. One … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Fratello x Nomos Zürich Weltzeit “The Hague” Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Chronoscope
The latest from Omega is a surprise: a Speedmaster powered by a new, manual-wind calibre but fitted with a retro-inspired, multi-scale dial. Equipped with the full-spec cal. 9908, the Speedmaster Chronoscope is a 43 mm chronograph with a dial bearing three sets of measurement scales: tachymeter, telemeter, and pulsometer. While the multi-scale dial is modelled on vintage Omega chronographs of the 1940s, the case is classic Speedmaster with its characteristic “twisted” or “lyre” lugs. Initial thoughts The Chronoscope is essentially combines well-known chronographs from two disparate periods in Omega’s history: the multi-scale dial typically associated with the vintage CK 2393 powered by the cal. 33.3 from the 1940s, plus the Speeedmaster case that is a 1960s design. But it is distinctly 21st century in mechanics with the new cal. 9908 inside. While any one of those might be appeal on their own, together they don’t work well. The Speedmaster case design is about three decades older than the multi-scale so it feels incongruent. To be fair, the dial looks to be well executed with good detail and design. The portions of the dial look good and the applied numerals are a nice touch. And pricing is fair as well. But despite the appeal of the individual elements, the whole is less than the sum of the parts. Still, the design makes sense from a broader, commercial perspective since it adds a new look to the stable of designs for the Speedmaster, which is one of Omega...
Time+Tide
Is the new Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Collection a successful marriage of vintage and modern design?
Classics are classics for a reason: they present a timeless appeal that many collectors enjoy. This appeal can come from the overall design of the watch or from a specific element. A great example of the latter is the incorporation of multiple timing scales on the dials of many a vintage chronograph. It’s a feature … ContinuedThe post Is the new Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Collection a successful marriage of vintage and modern design? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Bell & Ross BR05 GMT
Unveiled two years ago, the BR05 was Bell & Ross’ take on the integrated-bracelet sports watch – probably the hottest genre of watches now. The brand then followed up with a skeleton version and also the twin-counter BR05 chronograph. And now Bell & Ross takes the covers off perhaps the most useful iteration to date – the BR05 GMT. Though a newish arrival to a well-established genre, the BR05 was essentially derived from the brand’s trademark square watch case, a design dating to 2005 that was inspired by instrument panels of fighter jets. But the BR05 diverged from those military origins, acquiring a more refined, slightly retro appearance with its case finishing, a mix of polished and brushed surfaces, as well as an elegant integration of the bracelet. The new GMT sticks to the same design, while adding the utility of a second time zone. Initial thoughts When Bell & Ross (B&R;) offered to loan me a BR05 GMT prototype for a few days, I wasn’t expecting any surprises. But when I first got the watch in hand, I found the fit and finish unexpectedly good. The BR05 has an appealing, tactile feel, stemming from the sharply finished case and appealing design. My initial impressions were positive – the BR05 GMT lives up to the expectations set by its retail price. The best feature of the GMT is something it shares with its siblings in the collection, namely the BR05 case and bracelet. They are well finished and a good look. But the GMT stands out for its simplicity ...
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Unique Patek Philippe Ref. 5070/1P – Black Dial on Bracelet
Distinctive with its wide, flat bezel, the ref. 5070 was Patek Philippe’s last chronograph powered by the CH27-70 movement derived from the Lemania 2310. At 42 mm in diameter, the ref. 5070 was the largest high-end chronograph on the market at its launch in 1998. Amongst the four versions of the ref. 5070 – in rose, yellow, or white gold as well as platinum – the platinum version is the rarest. Around 250 were made according to Sotheby’s, with the standard guise for the platinum case being being a metallic, muted-blue dial. Produced at the “special request of an important client” in 2012, the ref. 5070/1P-010 has a black dial, while preserving the standard dial design with its large, applied Arabic numerals in white gold. While the standard model is has the model reference 5070P, this example has the suffix “/1P”, indicating the monochromatic dial is matched by a platinum “brick” bracelet, an uncommon option only available via special order. Importantly, both the black dial and bracelet are mentioned on the certificate, which indicates the watch was sold at the Patek Philippe Salon in Geneva. The combination of a platinum case, black dial, and matching bracelet – familiar and simple but endlessly striking – has been seen before on other chronograph models, including a ref. 5004P that sold at Christie’s in 2019. But this is the first ref. 5070P in this livery to be offered publicly. Estimated at HK$4-8 million, or US$500,000-1 million, the uniq...
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: Two Unique Masterpiece II Chronographs From Kari Voutilainen – Reprise
A generous friend offered GaryG the opportunity to shoot his white gold Kari Voutilainen Masterpiece Chronograph II so that Gary is able to share delightful photos of both his custom pink gold Chronograph II in comparison with his friend's custom white gold version.
Quill & Pad
Ulysse Nardin Commemorates 175 Years With A Stunning Set Of Marine Torpilleur Timepieces
Celebrating its 175th anniversary, Ulysse Nardin unveils several new models in the Marine Torpilleur collection during Geneva Watch Days 2021: two timepieces with date and power reserve, a moon phase models offered in two dial colors, a chronograph with an annual calendar, and a rather special flying tourbillon with a lustrous enamel dial.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Debuts the Royal Oak Offshore 42 mm with In-House Cal. 4404
One of the biggest watches on the market when it was introduced in 1993, the Royal Oak Offshore is a landmark in the oversized-sports watch genre. Since then the model has been iterated into numerous variants and several sizes, while the first-generation originals have occasionally returned as limited editions. Now they are back for good as part of the regular collection at Audemars Piguet – but upgraded with the in-house cal. 4404 as well as quick-release bracelets and straps. Nicknamed “evolution” by Audemars Piguet (AP), the new Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 42 mm ref. 26238TI is being launched with a trio of watches that are a faithful take on the 1993 original, along with two new “Mega Tapisserie” dials in the same size. The Offshore 42 mm with “Mega Tapisserie” dials Initial thoughts The last major revamp of the Offshore Chronograph 42 mm was in 2014, when it received a movement upgrade in the form of an in-house base movement, though retaining the modular chronograph. And then two years ago Audemars Piguet unveiled a model equipped with the Frederic Piguet cal. 1185. The new Offshore is arguably better than all its recent counterparts, because it combines the original design – which is a classic – while improving what needed to be improved, namely the movement. In the release announcement, AP describes the movement as “a new selfwinding integrated chronograph, Calibre 4404, equipped with column wheel and flyback function”, which pretty much ...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Sinn 103 Classic 12 celebrates the brand’s 60th with a reverse panda dial
I love brand anniversaries. They present the perfect opportunity for a brand to do something new or to celebrate their past by pulling something special out of their archives. In 2011, Sinn gave us the grey dialled, bi-compax, 358 chronograph to celebrate their 50th anniversary. With this year being their 60th, I couldn’t wait to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Sinn 103 Classic 12 celebrates the brand’s 60th with a reverse panda dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Sinn 103 Classic 12
Sinn releases a new 600-piece limited classic chronograph with a ceramic bezel insert to mark the 60th anniversary. Presenting the Sinn 103 Classic 12.
SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Debuts the Marine Torpilleur 175 Years Collection
Historically a major producer of marine chronometers, Ulysse Nardin has repurposed the concept in the modern day for its bestselling line of wristwatches that retain the face of a marine chronometer while having in-house movements and eminently reasonable prices. For its 175th anniversary, Ulysse Nardin has unveiled the Marine Torpilleur 175 Years collection, a suite of limited-edition watches starting with an affordable base model and ending with a range-topping tourbillon featuring a fired-enamel dial. Initial thoughts Originally introduced as an entry-level Marine model – it was named after a torpedo boat – the Marine Torpilleur has been successful enough that it’s now an entire anniversary line up. The expansion of the line is a good thing, because the Torpilleur is classically handsome and generally good value. All the Torpilleur models are largish at 42 mm in diameter, but most are slim, with heights of about 11 mm, though the chronograph is understandably wider and thicker. As a result, they appear relatively thin on the wrist, especially for a sporty watch. The tourbillon with a black enamel dial, and next to it a vintage Ulysse Nardin chronometer pocket watch with tourbillon regulator And the watches are all equipped with high-spec in-house movements, which is a big factor in their value propositions. Even the base model, which costs US$8,200 in its simplest version, is equipped with the UN-118, a movement that has a silicon hairspring and escapement, along...
SJX Watches
Czapek Introduces the Antarctique Rattrapante
Czapek & Cie unveiled the Antarctique a year ago, its first foray into the popular category of luxury-sports watches. While the Antarctique had many of the elements synonymous with a luxury-sports watch, namely a steel case, blue dial, and integrated bracelet, it lacked what is arguably the signature element of Czapek’s design DNA – a pair of sub-dials at five and seven. Just unveiled at Geneva Watch Days, the followup to the original model combines a light touch of high horology with styling more faithful to the brand’s origins – the Antarctique Rattrapante, which is also the brand’s first split-seconds chronograph. Initial thoughts At a glance, the Antarctique Rattrapante is a noble effort in fusing the brand’s signature look with a modern, open-worked dial. Aesthetically, the design works well. The concept of having the entire split-seconds chronograph module visible on the dial creates an intricate view of the mechanics that would normally be hidden. And the mechanics are interesting, as the look is the result of substantial contortions to lower the sub-dials while ensuring they do not run into the gear train for the central hands. Notably, the repositioning was done with extra wheels – the chronograph mechanism actually has the registers in their traditional three and nine positions. At its core however, the chronograph remains a traditional, mono-pusher mechanism, albeit one that’s modular. The split-seconds mechanism does lack a key feature found ...
Deployant
New: Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante
Czapek extends their Antarctique line with a split seconds chronograph with the mechanism visible from the dial side. Here is the Antarctique Rattrapante.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar
After the Streamliner made its debut in chronograph form last year, H. Moser & Cie. has just grown the line of luxury-sports watches to include the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar. As is typical of Moser’s house style, the new perpetual calendar is streamlined in design and presentation, with the dial indicating the date and month while remaining minimalist, avoiding sub-dials entirely. The inaugural version of the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar gets a black fumè dial, giving the watch a subtle palette that’s fitting for its minimalist aesthetic. Notably, the monochromatic, shades-of-grey livery also harks back to the limited edition chronograph that was the opening model of the collection. Initial thoughts Compared to the two earlier Streamliner models – chronograph and time-only respectively – the latest is the most representative of Moser because of the ingenious movement within. A movement that made Moser’s reputation when it was resurrected in 2005, the calibre is one of the few that truly reimagines the perpetual calendar. While the Streamliner chronograph has an equally ingenious movement, the perpetual calendar movement is Moser’s own, which makes it that much more special. While appearing similar to the other versions of the Streamliner, the Perpetual Calendar differs in a few respects, which makes it stand out against its siblings in the Streamliner range, and more appealing for that reason. The design is slightly more nuanced, possessing details l...
Hodinkee
Ulysse Nardin's New Chrono May Look Familiar
The Marine Torpilleur Annual Chronograph references an early 20th-century pocketwatch.
SJX Watches
IWC to Keep Time on First All-Civilian Space Flight
Slated to be the first space flight with an entirely civilian crew, Inspiration4 take off in September 2021 for a three-day orbit of Earth. Operated by SpaceX, the space travel company founded by Elon Musk, the mission will keep time with the help of IWC, which has created the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Inspiration4” for the four-person crew. Featuring white ceramic cases and blue-lacquered dials, the four watches will be sold at auction after the space flight, with proceeds going to St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital, a paediatric hospital funded by donations that treats severely ill children and teenagers for free. Initial thoughts Being four watches that will be sold to benefit a good cause, the Inspiration4 chronographs are certainly a good thing. It helps that the design is appealing. Though the overarching elements of the watch are familiar – white ceramic and blue – they are combined in a novel manner for IWC. Both the star-speckled dial and white ceramic case are unique in the IWC line up. But the fact that these four are the first-ever Pilot’s watches in white ceramic (aside from prototypes from two decades ago) probably hints at something similar in the pipeline. If, and when, such a watch does emerge, I hope the production version will be smaller than the 44.5 mm that the Inspiration4 is, though that’s unlikely since the ceramic chronographs are all that size. Four travellers The four watches have been made for the crew of Inspiratio...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Chrono
A new chronograph collection at Watches & Wonders.
SJX Watches
Hanhart Introduces the Flieger Friday Edition
Historically the world’s leading producer of mechanical stopwatches – the sort once standard issue at athletic meets – Hanhart has shifted its focus to sports chronographs in recent years. Most of them are based on the brand’s vintage watches from the early- to mid- 20th century, especially the distinctive pilot’s chronographs it supplied to the German air force. While some of its offerings are remakes, the brand’s latest is an overtly modern take on the 1930s pilot’s chronograph. The #FliegerFriday Edition combines a black-coated steel case with a dark blue dial as well as the brand’s trademark red reset pusher. With the origins of the design are vintage, the Flieger Friday Edition has a calculated casual style that stems from its inspiration – the social media hashtag #FliegerFriday, which refers to wearing a pilot’s watch over the weekend. Initial thoughts Hanhart is not short of vintage remakes – usually executed with signature elements like a red pusher or knurled bezel – so the modern style of the Flieger Friday Edition is unusual and welcome. Admittedly the blue-dial sports chronograph formula is well used, but here it’s done with a little more novelty by pairing the dial with a steel case coated in black diamond-like-carbon (DLC). Add to that the splash of red, and the result is a striking watch that does live up to the hashtag’s basis of a fun, weekend watch. The watch is reasonably priced at US$2,700, which is not much more than the...
SJX Watches
Singer Reimagined Introduces the Track 1 DLS Edition
Having just concluded, Monterey Car Week was a series of shows and auctions, concluding with the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance. The week was the venue for Porsche 911 specialist Singer Vehicle Design to exhibit the DLS for the first time in the United States. Launched in 2018, the DLS is a Porsche 964 that’s been entirely remade to be ultra-light and ultra-aerodynamic. To go along with the car, Singer Reimagined rolled out the Track 1 DLS Edition. It’s a new take on Singer’s trademark central chronograph, reimagined to be, well, ultra-light, while retaining its recognisable case design and thoroughly original Agenhor movement. Initial thoughts Because it combines a distinct, retro design along with a truly ingenious movement, I like the Track 1 (and I own another version of the watch). The DLS is essentially a condensed version of the same thing – and it’s cool. The aesthetic is pared-back just enough, while the composite case is an interesting novelty. Though the material is common in watchmaking, it’s a first for Singer. The only shortcoming I can uncover is a philosophical one: the DLS Edition echoes its namesake automobile with lightweight materials, but unlike the car, it doesn’t make any functional changes. The movement is identical to that of the standard model, but it is admittedly an excellent and innovative movement. Still, all that’s a moot point given that the watch is only available to owners of the car, of which there will be just 75. ...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The New Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Cal. 3861
Having finally retired the decades-old version of the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch powered by the cal. 1861, Omega announced its successor at the start of the year. Equipped with the new cal. 3861, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph 42 mm is the result of a thorough makeover, with all its parts – from the case and bracelet to the dial and movement – reworked in nearly every respect. The latest version (left) and its predecessor While that seems to imply a radical change, it’s near impossible to tell the new and old versions apart. Despite being all encompassing, the improvements are subtle. From an aesthetic perspective, the Moonwatch remains as it was in the mid 1960s, when the straight lugs of the earlier generations were replaced with the twisted, “lyre” lugs that are now a defining feature of the model. That leads to the obvious question: if the two generations are nearly identical, is the new version any better? Briefly put, yes. Two upgrades elevate the new Moonwatch in a tangible and substantial manner. One lies in the detail of its design: the face has a bit more flair thanks to greater distinction between the different levels of the dial. And the other lies on the inside: the new cal. 3861 gets most of Omega’s state-of-the-art innovations, resulting in improved timekeeping, as well as a useful level of magnetism resistance. The new cal. 3861 (left) and the cal. 1863 (the dressed-up version of the ...
Hodinkee
New Vintage Watches In The HODINKEE Shop
A 1973 Rolex GMT-Master 'Mark 2,' A 1960s Enicar Sherpa Super-Dive, And A 1970 Bulova Deep Sea 'B' Chronograph
SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Superleggera Edition
Essentially a dressed-up version of the Monsieur in black ceramic, the Monsieur Superleggera Edition takes inspiration from the J12 Superleggera, a chronograph named after the ultra-light racing cars of the mid-20th century. Like the J12, the Monsieur Superleggera has an obvious automotive theme in its design, with its time display redesigned to resemble a speedometer. Initial thoughts I’m a fan of the Monsieur de Chanel in its earlier iterations, including the original model in “beige” gold and more recent version in ceramic and marble. They were all clean, stylish, and mostly monochromatic – and equipped with a sophisticated, attractive movement. The Superleggera Edition has the same movement, but the style is the opposite. It has a techno-automotive style that tries a bit too hard for my tastes. While the texturing and scales have a clear automotive inspiration, they don’t add much to the visual appeal of the watch. Ironically, the inspiration for the new Monsieur, the J12 Superleggera of 2005, actually looks more streamlined, despite being a chronograph. Still, the Monsieur Superleggera probably like a fancy bodykit for a car – it’ll divide opinions. Anyone who finds the plainer Monsieur boring would applaud this. Superleggera Italian for “super light”, Superleggera was an Italian coachbuilder that specialised in lightweight automobile bodies comprising a tubular steel frame cover in thin, aluminium-alloy panels. Perhaps the most famous automobile w...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection offers vintage perfection on a 38mm dial
Zenith have a track record for having their fingers on the pulse of the watch world. In the ‘60s, they spent nearly the entire decade developing the El Primero to be the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph movement. Back then, the world was crying out for innovation: new techniques, new designs and new possibilities. Now, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection offers vintage perfection on a 38mm dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Tutima Introduces the M2 Seven Seas S
Historically a supplier of timepieces to the German military and police, Tutima now offers a broad line of “tool” watches. The latest from the Glashütte-based brand is the M2 Seven Seas S, the first version of its dive watch with a steel case (prior models are all titanium). Initial thoughts Tutima’s M2 line of sports watches are all big and solid, with chunky but streamlined cases modelled on the ref. 798 chronograph the brand once supplied to the German military. While simple, they are effective tool watches. The Seven Seas S sticks to the same formula, except in steel. That means it’s heavier, which might not be for everyone given the size. But the steel has the upside of a brushed finished with some polished accents, giving the case and bracelet a more varied look than the uniform sandblasted finish of the titanium model. But the best thing about the Seven Seas S is the version with a yellow dégradé dial, which darkens to a green-black at its edges. It’s an unusual and striking finish that sets the Seven Seas S apart from most of the competition. The only drawback with the new Seven Seas is the ETA 2824 inside. It’s robust and easy to service, but has a short power reserve of just 38 hours, which means it’ll probably stop if off the wrist for more than a day. Power reserves of 50 to 70 hours are now the industry norm, even at the entry level, so this disadvantages the Seven Seas. The Seven Seas S is relatively affordable and fairly competitively price...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection hits the sweet spot in three different forms
In the 1960s, Zenith developed the El Primero to be the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph movement. Back then the world was crying out for innovation: new techniques, new designs, and new possibilities. Now watch buyers increasingly seem to appreciate tradition, vintage reissues and smaller sizes. The Zenith Chronomaster Original offers both progress and nostalgia … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection hits the sweet spot in three different forms appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Zenith And Swiss Open Gstaad: Reaching For Tennis Stars With The Chronomaster Sport And Chronomaster Original
As Zenith is a sponsor of the Swiss Open in Gstaad, Elizabeth Doerr had the opportunity to attend the 2021 edition where she handled a number of Zenith’s most recent watch releases, falling in love with two in particular: the new Chronomaster Original and Chronomaster Sport Gold, both powered by the legendary (and now updated) El Primero chronograph movement.
Revolution
Bandit and Wei Koh’s Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono
Revolution’s founder ruminates on love and loss and the poignant, intangible value of his Chopard Alpine Eagle chronograph.
SJX Watches
Massena Lab Refreshes the Uni-Racer with Fun Colours
Massena Lab is a design studio that got its start collaborating with independent watchmakers on limited edition timepieces. But the firm more recently unveiled watches under its own label, starting with last year’s Uni-Racer, a chronograph modelled on the mid-20th century Universal Genève “Big Eye” chronograph. Founded by William Rohr, best known for being the former manager of the Timezone.com watch forum, Massena Lab follows up with the Uni-Racer Holiday Collection, a trio of chronographs time clad in funky colours with a retro bent that bring to mind watches of the 1970s. Initial thoughts Vintage remakes have been trendy for several years now, and the sheer number of them mean they are often hit-or-miss. It’s rare for a remake to get the details right – especially since the case and movement are modern – something that takes a keen eye to decide what to copy and what to tweak. Mr Rohr’s creations often get the details right – the two-tone sector dial jumping seconds and gilt dial chronograph are cases in point – reflecting his decades of watch collecting. And importantly they are fairly priced. But the Uni-Racer Chronograph stands out from Massena Lab’s portfolio to date. Not only was it the first watch to bear the Massena Lab brand, but it was a near-exact copy of the vintage original – which split opinions and elicited lots of vocal critiques on social media. Uni-Racer “Rally” Still, for anyone who appreciates old-school design, ...