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Quill & Pad
The “Goutte d’Eau” technique used in Czapek & Cie’s new Promenade watch collection shines a new light on the grand feu enamel effect, evoking ripples radiating from a water droplet hitting a pond’s surface.
![[VIDEO] Twin Peaks: How Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan Use their Peak Design Everyday Backpacks](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2024/07/PeakDesign_Bags_1.jpg)
Worn & Wound
Back in February, Kat Shoulders and Zach Kazan emptied their tech pouches onscreen, in a video that showed you how each of them packs for a trip to the office. Today, the next logical step: Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan are emptying out their backpacks. But whereas our tech pouch video featured two very different packs, this one shows how Zach and Zach have arranged their gear in the same backpack, the Peak Design Everyday Backpack. The Peak Design Everyday Backpack is notable for the way it can be customized by the user. Designed primarily for photographers, the backpack is fitted with three interior separators that effectively can be used shelves to store gear on. These “shelves” can be shaped and positioned in any number of ways, depending on what the backpack needs to carry, and they can be accessed from both sides of the pack and the top (via a unique magnetic panel). Zach W. and Zach K. are using their backpacks in very different ways, illustrating the versatility of the design. For Zach W. this has become a true everyday backpack, and he fills it with those indispensable items that are needed on a daily basis. For Zach K., it’s more of a travel backpack, and he’s set it up for easy train commutes and hassle free flights. Let us know in the comments if you’re a Peak Design Everyday Backpack user, and how you’ve set yours up to make the most of its flexible design. And if you’re not, let us know about your ideal everyday backpack. The post [VIDEO] Tw...
Deployant
Here is our hands-on comprehensive review of the Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition.
Quill & Pad
With the Regulator MK II you can see the development that Garrick has been through in just five short years. Regulator MK II is not an evolution but a revolution!
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin’s flagship launch for the year is the Les Cabinotiers “The Berkley” Grand Complication, but it a 1 kg pocket watch with 63 complications and an eight-figure price tag commissioned by a billionaire insurance entrepreneur. For more ordinary well-off persons, the brand’s halo product is the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine. Based on a model launched in pink gold in 2020, the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine is a large but elegant watch executed to a high level, with both fine movement decoration and the usual all-platinum CEP treatment. A periodic offering from Vacheron Constantin (VC) since 2006, the Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) is a series of limited editions that are variations of regular production models enhanced with the liberal use of platinum throughout the watch. Typically that means a platinum case and clasp, which are ordinary, but also an unusual sandblasted platinum dial and also a strap stitched with platinum-and-silk thread. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the CEP series because it’s a subtle twist on the standard version, with the differences only really apparent to those in the know. At the same time, because the CEP treatment is simple, it often works better on some models than others. With the CEP line now almost 20 years old, there are about a dozen CEP editions to demonstrate that point. The platinum treatment arguably works best with more complicated watches like the Tradit...
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Monochrome
Founded by Gautier Massonneau, French brand Trilobe abandons the conventional approach of displaying time with central hands. Instead, Trilobe inverts the formula and sets time in motion with counterclockwise rotating discs for the hours, minutes and seconds indicated by static trefoil pointers. Trilobe’s first collection, Les Matinaux, bears the name of a René Char poetry […]
Quill & Pad
Technically, this F.P. Journe watch is called the “Chronomètre Optimum Black Label,” but it should be called the “Ultimate.” That’s how much Tim Mosso reveres and admires a timepiece Journe himself describes as the most accurate mechanical watch he knows how to construct.
Monochrome
When TAG Heuer released its Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon in 2016, it created a sensation on the watch market. It was not because of its double complications or its imposing 45mm case and skeletonised dial but because it featured an in-house integrated chronograph movement with a tourbillon regulator (Heuer 02T) and a hyper-aggressive price tag of […]
SJX Watches
Almost a dress watch done in sci-fi style, the most compact version of De Bethune’s trademark model gained a striking new look this year with the DB28xs Purple Rain. Clad entirely in purple – or more accurately, titanium heat treated to purple – the DB28xs Purple Rain is distinctive and striking because of its sheer colour. Though the colour is novel for De Bethune, the watch incorporates many of the brand’s signature design elements, including a “starry sky” dial and the DB2005 movement with a proprietary titanium and white gold balance wheel. Initial thoughts De Bethune didn’t invented flame-blued titanium, but the material has become something of the brand’s signature. It has been used extensively across its product line, arguably so much that it’s not as novel as it was. De Bethune later tried titanium heated to a bronze-gold finish, but that doesn’t have the vivid hue of blue. Titanium that’s been flamed to purple, however, is as vivid as blue. And the finish is still fairly unique, since it has only been applied to the DB28xs Purple Rain as well as a handful of one-off creations. As a result, while the Purple Rain is only a colour variation of an existing model, it is usually compelling because it is both different and striking. Because it’s essentially the same material as blued titanium, purple titanium will likely have the same durability. Like the blued finish, the purple is actually a thin oxide layer on the titanium that’s created by t...
Fratello
It’s a summer Sunday morning, so grab your caramel Frappuccino, and get ready for a battle rooted in history. We’re kidding, of course; an early morning battle like this requires a double espresso. But we weren’t kidding about the history-injected showdown that we are presenting to you this morning. We paired the latest 38mm Divers […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38mm Vs. Tudor Black Bay 54 to read the full article.
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Time+Tide
Flying saucers, pocket watches and rainbows: there isn’t a single boring piece this week!The post New releases from Piaget, Furlan Marri, Hermès and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Who lives in a Spinnaker under the sea? SpongeBob SquarePants!The post Spinnaker celebrates SpongeBob’s 25th anniversary with a collection of colourful character watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Nesr Ferrotex First up this week we have a really cool one that I have never seen, never even heard of! This vintage Nesr Ferrotex has a fantastic look, with a classic Oyster style case with the Thunderbird style grooved bezel. This is often referred to as “engine turned,” but that never seemed very accurate to me. The white(ish) dial is clean, featuring faceted arrowhead markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 with slim stick markers elsewhere. No date, or anything else to mess up the beautiful symmetry. The steel case measures 35mm and looks sharp and unpolished. The caseback has a gold medallion (like King Seiko or Omega Constellation, etc) with an eagle on it. The seller states that Nesr means eagle in Arabic, which would make sense. Nice clean manual wind movement that runs well per the seller. Great, unique piece for any collection! View auction here Vintage Timex “UFO” Here’s an interesting one, a vintage Timex Electronic “UFO”. The wide disc-shaped case measures 42mm in diameter and is chrome plated. It shows minimal wear and definitely still looks good. The two-tone gold bullseye style dial is clean, with different textures on the inner/outer dial and the bullseye ring. Thi...
Time+Tide
The watch in question? A vintage IWC Ingenieur "Jumbo" SL Automatic ref. 1832 from 1976 with a custom green dial.The post Brad Pitt confirmed wearing custom vintage IWC on F1 movie set appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Lorier surprised us at the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago last week with a new release dubbed the Rambler, a collaboration with Indiana based Janus Motorcycles. For Lorier to collaborate with a motorcycle brand might not make much sense at first, but stepping back, the two brands are very much in sync. Both have a trade in classic aesthetics rooted in mid century styles, and both brands prize simplicity in design. Most of all, Janus and Lorier both place a high value on actually getting out and using their products authentically. The experiences tied to riding or the types of sporting activities you might undertake while wearing a Lorier are core to each brand, and the Rambler evokes and invites those experiences in the same way that the brand’s prior watches have been successful in doing so. The Rambler is built on the same 36mm case that will be familiar to owners of the Astra and the Falcon. Like those watches (especially the Falcon) the Rambler is inspired by the classic field watch. Something Lorier does in their marketing materials that I always appreciate is draw direct parallels to specific watches that provided inspiration in the design process, and for the Rambler they’ve cited classic field and pilot’s watches like the Rolex Oyster Imperial, Universal Geneve 20504, and the Omega 6B/159. More importantly than the specific references though, Lorier ties the Rambler to motorcycle culture through the people who would have worn those watches. These are the war ...
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Teddy Baldassarre
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is one of those historical, influential timepieces that has been occasionally imitated but never really equaled in its appeal. Tracing its origins back nearly a hundred years, It is the most prominent and enduring example of Art Deco design in the 21st Century watch world and one of the first and most successful examples of a tool watch that transcended its utilitarian origins to become a stylish and indisputably unisex fashion accessory. Read on to discover everything you need to know about the Reverso and how it has maintained its iconic status in a century of shifting trends and industry headwinds. Foundations: Jaeger Meets LeCoultre Antoine LeCoultre Today a watchmaking house renowned for both its high-luxury pedigree and a high-horology acumen nearly unmatched in the industry, Jaeger-LeCoultre had the humblest of beginnings. In 1833 Antoine LeCoultre (1803 - 1881), descendant of farmers and blacksmiths, started making timepieces in his family’s small barn in Le Sentier in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Learning metallurgy from his father at the family forge, LeCoultre developed an early interest in watchmaking and proved to be an influential innovator of his era. His so-called “millionomètre,” completed in 1844, had a profound impact on the precise manufacture of watch parts as it was the first instrument able to measure 1/1000ths of a millimeter, aka microns. At the 1851 Great Exhibition in London’s Hyde Park, LeCoultre was awa...
SJX Watches
Established two years ago by Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre, Biver has just named the first outsider to its management ranks with James Marks as chief executive officer. The longtime head of Phillips Perpetual, the auctioneer’s watch boutique headquartered in London, Mr Marks is now based in Zurich for his new role; he remains a consultant to Phillips. (Pictured above, from left: James Marks, Jean-Claude and Pierre Biver.) Now 74 years old, the inimitable Jean-Claude Biver is something of an industry legend for having resurrected Blancpain and Hublot, but his eponymous brand is the first venture that is his own. Or more specifically, a Biver family affair: his youngest son Pierre, who is turning 25 this year, was cofounder of the brand. Mr Marks, who is 44 years old, will both help lead the brand as well as manage the transition from one generation of Bivers to the next. The movement of the one-off Biver Catharsis Minute Repeater Carillon Mr Marks is a longtime watch enthusiast who was a fund manager before he joined the watch industry six years ago. Soon after he set up Perpetual, a then-novel concept for an auction house where watches were available for sale year-round and not only during auction season. One of his earliest hires was Pierre Biver as an intern. Both an industry insider and outsider, Mr Marks is expected to bring a new perspective to Biver. Although the brand has only sold a few dozen watches to date, it has garnered volumes of praise and criticism...
Quill & Pad
Alexey Kutkovoy considers the introduction of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in 1972 to be one of the most important turning points in the evolution of wristwatches in the 20th century. Here he looks at the history of the Offshore and highlights 4 new models for the Offshore's 30th anniversary.
SJX Watches
Breitling’s latest collaboration is a pair of limited-edition Chronomats conceived together with Giannis Antetokounmpo, the Greek-Nigerian basketballer who plays for the NBA’s Milwaukee Bucks. The entry-level model is the Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 Giannis Antetokounmpo in stainless steel, an edition of 1,750 pieces. And then there’s the Chronomat B01 42 Giannis Antetokounmpo in 18k red gold that’s limited to 250. Both share the same dial with baton indices, finished in a green reminiscent of the Milwaukee Bucks’ team colours. And NBA superstar himself gets a unique creation: an all-red gold Chronomat B01 42 with the same green dial but with the registers and flange in contrasting white, along with Eastern-Arabic numerals (pictured above). Initial thoughts The Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are essentially identical to the respective standard Chronomat models, save for the dial colour that’s a brighter shade of green, along with the basketballer’s discreet “GA” as the second hands counterweight. The chronograph has the addition of a basketball emblem on the seconds register. The basketball elements in the design are minimal, so the two are a good cosmetic alternative to the standard models, even for someone who doesn’t follow basketball since the sport. That’s especially so since the Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are priced the same as the standard models: the GMT costs US$6,150, while the B01 chronograph is US$42,500 on the red gold Rouleaux brac...
In 1971, banker-turned-explorer Peter Gimbel set out on a 5-month voyage aboard the Terrier VIII to be the first person in the world to capture a Great White shark on film. He cobbled together an eclectic team for this adventure, including everyone from conservationists and shark experts to filmmakers and writers. This expedition resulted in the documentary film Blue Water, White Death, which has since become a cult classic within the diving community, and features a slew of very unique, very 70s dive watches to boot. Among the crew of early underwater luminaries (Stan Waterman, Ron and Valerie Taylor, anyone?), Gimbel also saw fit to hire budding singer/songwriter Tom Chapin along as a guitar-slinging jack of all trades, whereupon he became the natural soundtrack for the film. Tom’s role in this expedition is considered to be the inspiration for filmmaker Wes Anderson’s inclusion of Brazilian folk singer Seu Jorge in his sea-set feature The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou. Both films result in support of an eternal truth, that the best boat rides are the ones with folk singers aboard. For the last three years, the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago has brought enthusiasts from as far south as Texas and from as far north as Canada to gather and geek out on watches from around the world. Beginning with the first year of Windup Chicago, a dedicated team of watch enthusiast divers started an adjacent activity, affectionately dubbed “Windup in a Lake.” Each year, this intrepi...
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Time+Tide
It hasn't dated well. No, we're not talking about Entourage's lack of political correctness, but this Ari Gold Rolex scene.The post HBO’s Entourage celebrates its 20th birthday. Do you remember this Ari Gold Rolex scene? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Morning watch selection is a ritual that is special and specific for every collector. Many variables get involved, starting with the number of watches in someone’s collection. One’s current mood, the weather, planned activities throughout the day, and matching with certain clothes may also come into play. Today, I will focus on random, usual, memorable, […] Visit #TBT My Four Vintage Watches Tied To Specific Occasions And Activities to read the full article.
Fratello
The Tudor of today has a raised voice and speaks its mind loudly and confidently. It doesn’t look like the brand it was before 2012, the year in which Tudor launched the Black Bay, the foundation of the manufacture we see today. Seeing a retro-styled dive watch with a burgundy bezel at Baselworld was confusing […] Visit What’s Next For Tudor? - Is It After Omega, Or Will It Take Rolex’s Former Spot? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Launched just last year, Raymond Weil’s “sector” dial is getting new livery with the Millesime Automatic Small Seconds Denim Blue. Not a vintage reissue per se but a modern take on a vintage-inspired design, the Millesime has a “sector” or “scientific” dial segmented into sections, subtly stepped on the periphery and frosted in the centre for a two-tone effect. The case is topped with a box-shaped sapphire crystal and narrow lugs for subtle retro charm. Initial thoughts Family-run Raymond Weil is a brand that might be familiar to watch enthusiasts but not top of mind – that’s because the brand had its heyday in the 1980s and 1990s when it was a major seller of affordable Swiss watches. Since then it has gradually fallen behind the competition with mostly unimaginative products; The New York Times describes the brand as a “mainstay of shopping malls”. With last year’s launch of the Millesime, a watch geared towards enthusiasts, the brand is trying to revive its offerings and reputation. It quickly found some success: the Millesime Small Seconds with a silver dial won the Challenge Prize (for watches retailing for less than CHF3,000) at last year’s Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève. Near-perfect proportions at 39.5 mm in diameter and just over 10 mm high In the hand, it’s obvious the Millesime is much, much better than most recent Raymond Weil creations. Even though the design isn’t exactly original, it shows attention was paid to the de...
SJX Watches
Expected but not quite so soon, longtime Hublot chief executive Ricardo Guadalupe is retiring after two decades at its helm, first as managing director for eight years followed by another 12 years as chief executive, during which he oversaw the expansion of Hublot’s manufacture as well as collaborations like the Daniel Arsham pocket watch. Now 59 years old with some four decades in the watch industry, Mr Guadalupe will be replaced by Julien Tornare, who was only just named to the top job at TAG Heuer in January 2024 when Frederic Arnault was named chief executive of the LVMH Watches Division. In turn, Mr Tornare will be succeeded by Antoine Pin, who was most recently head of Bulgari’s watch business. Who succeeds Mr Pin has not yet been officially announced. All the new appointments take effect come September 1, 2024. From left: Julien Tornare, Frédéric Arnault, Ricardo Guadalupe, and Antoine Pin Mr Guadalupe is a watch industry lifer, having started in the business at Bulgari in the mid 1980s before moving to Blancpain and then Hublot. For about a year now, Hublot insiders have been saying Mr Guadalupe appeared ready for retirement, though the announcement still comes as unexpected. Slated to become the Honorary President of Hublot after he steps down, Mr Guadalupe’s retirement might be due in part to the marked slowdown in the watch industry, which no doubt contributed to the significant management overhaul at Richemont, where new faces were appointed to the chie...
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