865 articles · 2 videos found · page 13 of 29
Monochrome
Mostly known for being the brand of the peripheral technology, Carl F. Bucherer, within its Manero collection, is no stranger to complications. Ranging from petite complications such as a big date or a power reserve to a highly technical Triple Peripheral Minute Repeater, there’s room for multiple iterations. A function that hasn’t been overlooked by […]
Worn & Wound
When we last checked in on Seiko’s Speedtimer line, we saw it in an unusual execution that made us think (fondly, for the most part) of funky watches from the 80s and 90s. Like their dive watches, Seiko’s chronographs have run the gamut over the years from the straight laced and traditional to the truly absurd, but unlike the brand’s dive watches, the chronos have never truly become ubiquitous. Nevertheless, there have been some wonderful chronograph designs from Seiko over the years, and a new release looks to a classic from the 1970s as inspiration. This one is just slightly more traditional than the reference linked above. The SRQ047 is a three register chronograph with a tried and true “panda” dial execution. The white main dial here is a gentle cream color with a subtle vertical brushing, and blue-gray subdials each have raised outer rings on their perimeters, providing depth to the dial as a whole. The orange tipped chronograph second hand and panda layout are both callbacks to specific features from the vintage Speedtimer from 1972 that served as design inspiration. The case is 42mm in stainless steel, and measures 14.6mm thick. It borrows its case lines as well as the unusual bracelet design from the original 1972 Speedtimer. The watch runs on the 8R48 automatic chronograph movement, which features both a column wheel and vertical clutch. It has 45 hours of power reserve with a minutes-hours-running seconds configuration at the 9, 6, and 3 positions. ...
SJX Watches
Recognised by its distinctive dual crowns and an internal rotating bezel, the Longines Legend Diver pays homage to history while embracing modern enhancements. Already a mainstay of Longines’ reissue sports watches, the Legend Diver has undergone a transformation and now features a redesigned and smaller 39 mm case that faithfully echoes the original (while it predecessor was 41 mm). Initial thoughts The new Legend Diver carefully retains the vintage styling of its predecessor. Traditionalists will appreciate the absence of the date that was found on the prior version. The absent dial preserves the dial’s clean and uncluttered aesthetic. But the new Legend Diver is not just a remake. Inside is the cal. 888.6, an upgraded ETA calibre that stands out with a 72-hour power reserve and magnetic resistance that exceeds the ISO 764 standard by ten times thanks to a silicon hairspring. And the dial similarly retains the design of the vintage original, but is executed in a modern manner with two colours of Super-Luminova, green and blue. This not only adds a touch of excellence to the design but also enhances readability in low-light conditions. On its face, the downsizing to 39 mm may not align with the conventions of a tool watch, especially one conceived for diving. However, this shift in size caters better to daily wear and better reproduces the original’s dimensions. Unfortunately, the reduction in diameter doesn’t go hand in hand with a decrease in thickness, so the ...
Worn & Wound
They say lightning doesn’t strike twice – but what about Red Lightning? Zurich-based Maurice de Mauriac has once again ignited the horological scene with their latest creation, the L1 Red Lightning. Known for being the choice of creatives worldwide, the brand has reimagined their L1 series with a red makeover that makes a bold statement. While the L1 Red Lightning’s predecessors were known for their clean aesthetic and a more pure design, this new iteration of the classic has just a bit of rock ‘n roll infused into it. In fact, it was Swiss musician, Crime, who first gave inspiration to Maurice de Mauriac for the vibrant change to the L1. And now, everyone can enjoy the bold addition to their line-up. While the red dial might be the most obvious feature of this watch, let’s not forget about the broad appeal that Maurice de Mauriac has in the market. The L1 Red Lightning boasts a stainless steel case with a black DLC coating, providing a sleek and durable exterior. The visible back and sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides showcase the meticulous craftsmanship. With a diameter of 39mm and a lug-to-lug distance of 46.6mm, the watch strikes a balance between presence and wearability. This L1 is powered by the automatic La Joux-Perret G100 caliber, ensuring precision with a generous power reserve of 68 hours. With a water-resistance at 10 ATM, it’ll fit into most regular-use situations (or, perhaps, a crazy night out with a Swiss pop star!)....
Worn & Wound
Watch brand YEMA has long been synonymous with French elegance and their latest model, the Superman Bronze CMM.10 is no exception. Utilizing crowd-funding through Kickstarter, YEMA has produced a limited edition watch that is as architectural in design as it is reliable when it comes to performance. Available in two sizes (39 and 41mm) and two dial color options (gradient blue and lacquered black), potential customers have the choice of a watch that best suits their individual preferences. Both dials are a striking contrast to the bronze, adding a balance of warm and cool tones that pair well with the rugged design of the Superman model. The watch itself has undergone a few changes from the original Superman models, most notable in the subtle upgrades to the dial, including the iconic “shovel” second hand has been replaced with a lollipop sweep hand, creating a more harmonious overall design. The timepiece now proudly exhibits French engravings and features the new “MANUFACTURE FRANÇAISE” signature thoughtfully placed at the 6 o’clock position. This change reflects YEMA’s updated brand positioning, resulting from their decision to internalize the manufacturing of components for the CMM.10 caliber. Speaking of the CMM.10 caliber, this movement promises 70-hours of power reserve and is rated to -3/+5 seconds per day is made from non-magnetic alloys to keep it from being impacted by magnetic forces during daily use. YEMA says that they worked in collaboration wit...
SJX Watches
One of the interesting lots this auction season in Geneva is the Patek Philippe ref. 5110G world time with a prototype dial at Sotheby’s. Scheduled to go under the hammer on November 5, 2023, the watch fitted with a monochromatic printed dial marked “Prototype”. Patek Philippe prototypes, or even prototype dials, rarely emerge in public, so this world time is notable in itself. Another recent example of a prototype was the Aquanaut prototype that sold at Antiquorum in 2019 featuring a “comet” power reserve that was never found on the regular production model. Unlike the Aquanaut prototype, however, this world time only has a prototype dial. The watch itself is a standard ref. 5110G that’s accompanied by the usual guilloche dial as well as an archive extract. According to Sotheby’s, the consignor of the watch is a watchmaker who worked at Patek Philippe for many years, so he presumably installed the prototype dial on a regular production ref. 5110G. Although simpler than the standard dial, the prototype dial is certainly more interesting. The central portion is a plain, flat white with black print, while the cities disc is off white. The dial is hardly fancy but possesses a clean, functional aesthetic that is strangely appealing. Moreover it runs counter to the prevailing Patek Philippe aesthetic that favours guilloche and applied numerals, making it visually unique. The simplicity of the dial, however, means it might have been a test dial installed in a proto...
Worn & Wound
Bremont is launching a new generation of Supermarines with not one, not two, but three configurations. The headliner is a special edition created in partnership with freedivers and conservationists Ocean Ramsey and Juan Oliphant, while the other two are regular production models with new color schemes and materials. The Supermarine line has been a mainstay for Bremont, and this infusion of models looks to take it to the next level. Let’s get the specs out of the way: all three new references are 40 mm wide, 49 mm long, and 13 mm thick. Lug widths are a friendly 20 mm, and the cases are made of scratch resistant DLC treated stainless steel. Unidirectional ceramic bezels (more on that later) surround four-handed dials with dates at 3. A modified caliber BE-932AV provides 50 hours of power reserve, and water resistance is rated at 300 meters. All the Supermarines are Chronometer rated to the ISO 3159 standard. First up, the Supermarine Ocean. Limited to 400 pieces, this model is designed with respect to Ocean and Juan’s work with sharks and other endangered sea creatures. The bezel, dial, and integrated rubber strap are appropriately called “Thresher Grey,” and proceeds from each sale will benefit the “Save the Turtles International” charity. Aesthetically, the gray and beige tones work well with the orange text on the dial, rehaut, and GMT hand. Note that, like the S302 JET, the 24-hour bezel on the Supermarine Ocean is monochromatic. The watch can be configured ...
SJX Watches
The Chronomètre Optimum is arguably François-Paul Journe’s most complex no-complication creation. Being a time-only watch, the Chronomètre Optimum displays the same amount of information as the entry-level Chronomètre Souveraine, albeit for more than twice the price, with the Chronomètre Optimum retailing for US$129,500 in platinum and a bit less in gold. On a pleasantly asymmetric dial, the Chronomètre Optimum presents the wearer with the time, down to the second, and a power reserve indicator. Plain as the dial might seem, the Chronomètre Optimum’s appeal lies in its inner, and largely hidden, complexity. In fact, the cal. 1510 within ranks among the most sophisticated time-only movements on the market today. Chronometry Historically the tourbillon was never a complication, though it is often regarded as such today – though some prominent collectors disagree. In this context, it is difficult to label the features of the Chronomètre Optimum true complications. But since the timepiece was designed with chronometry in mind, its features of engineered accuracy might just qualify as a complication. Chronometry in mechanical watchmaking is regarded as a marriage between accuracy and precision, as there is a nuance between the two. Accuracy is the quality of a watch or clock to have a timekeeping deviation as close to zero as possible, whereas precision relates more to the consistency and stability of the timepiece’s rate, rather than to a temporary lack of devi...
Worn & Wound
There’s something special about hand winding a watch. Sure, automatics are great, but the great thing about them is that they don’t really need you to keep doing their job. The most interaction you’d have with the crown on your automatic is maybe setting it should the power reserve run out over a long weekend. Handwinding watches require a bit more work, but that few minutes of winding in the morning before your day begins is a great opportunity to interact with your favorite watch. Romanticism aside, there are some key physical benefits as well. Most importantly being that since there’s no automatic winding rotor section needed for the movement, handwinding movements tend to be thinner and able to be housed in smaller cases that may wear better on your wrist. One iconic brand that’s still actively embracing handwinding watches is Hamilton. With the huge success of their Khaki Field Mechanical, it’s clear that enthusiasts still want handwinding watches, especially when they’re as solidly built, packed with features, and as functional as the Hamiltons below. Let’s take a look at three handwinding Hamiltons in the Windup Watch Shop and what makes them special. There’s something special about hand winding a watch. Sure, automatics are great, but the great thing about them is that they don’t really need you to keep doing their job. The most interaction you’d have with the crown on your automatic is maybe setting it should the power reserve run out over ...
WatchAdvice
Unveiled during the Monaco Grand Prix this year, Rebellion launched two limited edition RE-Volt pieces in partnership with the Alfa Romeo F1 team, and we’ve be able to go hands on with the Valtteri Bottas model! What We Love The layered coloured carbon caseSkeletonised dialThe actual pieces of the F1 car in the watch! What We Don’t Lack of water resistanceVelcro strap not as premium or comfortableMinimal power reserve Overall Rating: 8.375/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 8.5/10 As a fan of F1, it’s not everyday you get to go hands on and review a watch that the drivers wear. Let’s face it, many of the F1 teams have some very high end timing partners, like Richard Mille with Ferrari and Maclaren, whilst others like TAG Heuer and IWC are more mass luxury, some of the pieces the drivers sport are not, like the Lake Tahoe Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Lewis Hamilton has been seen with this year! So when Hardy Brothers, who are the official retailer for Rebellion in Australia, called and said they’ve one of the limited edition Valtteri Bottas C43 RE-Volt pieces available, let’s just say I was keen to get it on my wrist! The Rebellion RE-Volt Valtteri Bottas C43 Limited Edition to 50 Pieces Initial Thoughts Seeing this piece in person, you can’t help get some very strong Richard Mille and Hublot vibes from it. Partly due to the case designed in the Tonneau shape that is now synonymous with RM, and perhaps elements of the design an...
WatchAdvice
After seeing the press release, then having all three colourways for our hands on review for a few weeks, I pulled the trigger on the yellow Tissot Sideral S. But why? I’ve been wearing the yellow Tissot Sideral S now for about 2 months. And whilst we already did a hands on review on the collection, which you can read about here, this is an “Owner’s Perspective” with a difference. I mean, how can I do another review of a watch that I reviewed a few months back? To start I thought I’d elaborate on my review, especially now than rather than playing around with 3 colours, I’ve just the one to wear as part of my small collection. I said that the Tissot Sideral was one of those watches that you buy to add to a collection, not to start it, or to have as your one watch. Mostly because it’s not an everyday watch when you think about. It’s bright yellow for one, with a yellow inner track on the dial and a kind of pointless regatta timer on the inner scale. The Sideral S in the sand – perfect pairing! To add to this, its black carbon case isn’t all that versatile either, nor is its looks. It’s a very out there sports watch. BUT that’s exactly what it’s designed to be. A faithful recreation of the original yellow fiberglass cased Sideral S from 1971. However, with 300m water resistance, Tissot’s PowerMatic 80 movement with 80hrs of power reserve and their anti-magnetic Nivachron balance spring, it’s the perfect weekend watch, or holiday watch, or really,...
Worn & Wound
When Hintaro Hattori set up shop in Tokyo’s Ginza at the age of 21, he would eventually change the watchmaking landscape forever. The business, which initially focused on importing and wholesaling Swiss pieces, would go on to manufacture Japan’s first wristwatch, the Laurel, in 1913. It would also eventually be known as Seiko. Not one to waste an anniversary, Seiko is commemorating 110 years since the Laurel with a flurry of releases up and down the lineup. From Presage to Prospex, here is an overview of the new watches. Seiko Presage Bearing the closest resemblance to the original Laurel, the SPB401 bears the trademark red twelve o’clock numeral and two subdials for the date and power reserve. Its enamel dial comes from the work of the venerable Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team. It will be limited to 1,500 pieces with a retail price of $1,250. The SPB413 features an angular case not too unlike the King Seiko line and showcases a “hemp leaf” pattern on the dial. A red mark along the rehaut at twelve is its nod to the Laurel. It’s the most modern of the new releases but perhaps is also one of the most wearable. It is limited to 2,000 pieces with a retail price of $1,050. The least limited of the new Presage releases (3,500 pieces) is the SSK015, a new variation on the existing SSK GMT watches. It pays homage to the Laurel with its four blue hands and red triangle at twelve and will set you back $625. Seiko Prospex Sure to be a fan favorite, the SPB409 Alpinist GMT...
Worn & Wound
Sometimes all you need is a simple, well-designed watch. For over 170 years, Tissot has been providing just that. Now, with their latest release, the Tissot Heritage 1938, we’re seeing the Swiss brand look to their archives to bring back a time-tested design that has never gone out of style. As the name implies, Tissot was inspired by the design language of the 1930’s for the Heritage 1938 collection. With minimal dials and vintage inspired colorways that blend seamlessly into the 39mm stainless steel case, Tissot celebrates its heritage while never falling into the trap of making these watches feel like a recycling of old ideas. Instead, what we get is a refresh of a design that, put simply, just works. Two options are available in the Tissot Heritage 1938 collection: the Tissot Heritage Small Second Auto COSC 1938 and the Tissot Heritage Gent Auto COSC 1938. The former is powered by a 2895-2 COSC movement, while the latter is powered by a 2824-2 COSC movement. Both promise reliable timekeeping with a power reserve exceeding 40 hours. As the name would suggest, the Small Second reference has a small silvered running seconds subdial at the 6 o’clock mark and a date at 3 o’clock against a dark gray dial. The two Gent references (one with a salmon dial, the other dark gray) lack both of these features, but nonetheless have their own charm to them, showcasing the versatility that comes with a minimally-designed watch that can stand on its own. Whether going with the G...
Worn & Wound
First launched in the 1960’s, then resurrected in 2018, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris has long been a standard-bearing watch for the luxury Swiss watchmaker. Now, five years on from the relaunch of the Polaris, Jaeger-LeCoultre has reinvisioned the watch in two new ways. Recently, the brand has added two new signature dials to new Polaris Chronograph line-up that not only showcase the artisanal craftsmanship of the house, but also raises the question of when does a sports watch become a piece of art? Each watch in the new collection displays the technical precision that has become synonymous with the brand. The two dials – a rich blue and a sporty gray – are made from applying lacquer to the dial, giving these timepieces a richness that nicely juxtaposes the 42mm steel case. The lacquered finish works as a backdrop to a complex dial that packs a punch, including a well-balanced set of subdials at 3 o’clock (featuring a 30-minute timer) and a running seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. The entire dial is encompassed in an outer ring that is marked with the tachymeter scale while both variants are accented in a pleasantly contrasting orange. On the reverse of the watch is a sapphire crystal caseback which reveals the automatic Calibre 761 movement, which houses a generous 65-hour power reserve. The final touches of this movement include blued screws and Côtes de Genève decoration on the baseplate as well as on the signature open-worked winding rotor bearing the ‘JL...
SJX Watches
For their joint contribution to this November’s Only Watch charity auction, H. Moser & Cie and MB&F; have released the Streamliner Pandamonium. Made up of a Moser Streamliner case, fume dial, and minute repeating movement, the Pandamonium gets the MB&F; exposed, oversized balance wheel construction along with a panda DJ miniature sculpture. Initial thoughts These two brands are not strangers to each other, having collaborated many times before, this joint effort however, seems to be much more Moser than MB&F;, given this is essentially a Streamliner with a hint of MB&F;. Though it is an appealing watch if you like the Streamliner design, I expected the whole to be greater than the sum of the parts with such creative companies combining their powers. While the panda figure looms large in the marketing for this watch, in reality, it is easy to miss on the dial since it just under the flying balance wheel. MB&F; has employed a tiny sculpture as a power reserve indicator in the past, but here the panda is no more than a nice piece of miniature art. It would have been great if there was more of a mechanical aspect to this character, which would have transformed it into a modern take on old-school automaton repeaters – which is not too much of a stretch given the price tag. This watch is undoubtedly whimsical, but it has credible horological backing. The estimate of CHF300,000-400,000 is entirely expected for a minute repeater, and will likely be surpassed, albeit not by mult...
SJX Watches
Soon after unveiling the Big Pilot perpetual calendar in white ceramic, IWC is introducing the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 “Black Aces”. While retaining the customary dial layout of the model, the “Black Aces” sports a fully-luminous dial – a first for the brand. The watch gets it name from the U.S. Navy’s Strike Fighter Squadron 41 “Black Aces”, which collaborated with IWC on the watch’s key design elements. Initial thoughts The recent Top Gun watches with coloured ceramic cases have been bestsellers for IWC, though most have been complicated and pricier models. Hence, it is rather pleasing to see IWC do something with the entry-level Pilot’s Watch by giving it a simple yet appealing twist. Instead a run-of-the-mill dial colour, the “Black Aces” gets a lume dial that’s novel for IWC. The full-lume dial, however, is not new to watchmaking, with several brands having such dials for several years now, including Bell & Ross with its pilot’s watches. Beyond the colour, the military provenance and “Black Aces” emblem gives the watch a tangible military link that many of IWC’s fans will like. Notably, this watch contains the cal. 32100. I would have preferred the cal. 32111 that was used in the new Ingenieur instead. Both are essentially the same calibre, but the latter is a higher-spec version of the movement with a longer power reserve of 120 hours, as opposed the 72 hours of the cal. 32100. This movement was presumably used because o...
Worn & Wound
Subtlety will never go out of style and the new Pioneer Silva, from Swiss-German watch brand Hanhart, exemplifies this. With its low-profile design and simple aesthetic, the Silva has a presence without ever veering into the ostentatious. It’s a watch that’s just as comfortable paired with a suit as with jeans and a t-shirt. To accomplish this, Hanhart married modern design trends with classic elements. The watch itself is based on an archival reference, the Kal 36/39, which was reinterpreted for the modern age. Updates have included an uncluttered broad dial with an emphasis on sleek lines and readability. With that, there are still charming nods to Hanhart’s heritage models, including the white dots between numerals and the vintage Hanhart logo that’s recognized on a few Pioneer models. The Pioneer Silva isn’t just a watch that looks good, but functions well, too. The Silva has an automatic movement that runs on a Sellita SW200, offering a 38-hour power reserve. The SW200 can be seen in action through the sapphire glass backing on the Silva, adding another level of eye candy to this watch. As mentioned, the case of this watch has a low profile, making it a great watch for everyday wear. Coming in at just 10mm in height, the 38mm stainless steel case has presence on the wrist without the bulk. With the option of either a black or white dial, and a black calfskin or steel bracelet, Hanhart has embraced the minimalism of this watch to show off the versatility ...
Worn & Wound
Some things are as sure as the rising sun, and in the Land of the Rising Sun, that means nature-inspired dials from Seiko…King Seiko, to be exact. As friendly divisional rivals in the 60s and early 70s, the workshops of King Seiko and Grand Seiko challenged one another while pushing the technical and aesthetic envelope of Japanese watchmaking. While some consider GS victorious as the KS name was sunsetted in 1975, the reality is that both were instrumental in establishing Seiko’s mid-century identity. More recently, Grand Seiko has spun off as a high-end, independent brand, and the King Seiko nameplate was rebooted in February of last year as a more premium offering within Seiko. Today, we take a look at a watch that isn’t entirely new yet brings an interesting flourish to the recently resurrected collection. The SJE095’s specifications are reasonable for the average wrist: 38.6mm x 45.8mm x 10.7mm, 5 bar water resistance, and powered by in-house caliber 6L35 (28,800 vph, 45 hour power reserve, +15/-10s a day) with a date complication and boxed sapphire crystal. Like the other SJE and SPB-reference King Seikos, it features a striking stainless steel case, sharp angles, and expansive flat surfaces, attributes of the original 1965 KSK on which the entire modern KS line is based. This new dial features a self-repeating pattern of circles and fine lines known as kiku tsunagi-mon. This particular design holds special significance in Japanese culture for several reasons....
Worn & Wound
More and more, the luxury industry is looking to redefine what it means to be a “neutral” color. Instead of black, why not try a dark red? Instead of tan, a hunter green may do the trick. And if navy is a bit passe, then perhaps a lighter blue has just as much sophistication, but with a bit more impact on the wrist. Or, at least that’s the case with Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Sky Blue. Inspired by summer sunshine and the cloudless skies that accompany it, Hublot’s latest watch is vibrant while remaining refined. To accomplish this balance, Hublot has leaned into their brand identity as a watchmaker that marries technical precision with a robust design language. The watch has a strong presence on the wrist at 42mm, which is enhanced by the added details, such as the metal rivets, crown, and complementary colored strap. The case of the watch itself is made of high-tech, ultra-tough ceramic, something the Swiss brand has become known for in the industry, that gives Hublot a lot of control over the color of their end product. The Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is powered by an in-house automatic movement called the Unico. Composed of 354 pieces and providing over 72-hours of power reserve, the Unico HUB1280 movement is a celebration of the Swiss watchmaking tradition. Like many watches in Hublot’s various collections, the Sky Blue has a skeletonized dial, allowing the wearer to witness the internal workings of this watch throughout the day. The Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is l...
Time+Tide
The latest edition of the Hamilton Jazzmaster Skeleton has been redesigned to better embrace the calibre H-10-S It’s available in 40mm or 36mm configurations The H-10-S boasts an 80-hour power reserve and some nice decoration The Hamilton Jazzmaster is a bit of an outlier within their catalogue. It’s not famous like the Murph or Ventura, … ContinuedThe post The new Hamilton Jazzmaster Skeleton shows off its beating heart better than before appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
In a move that’s sure to excite watch enthusiasts, Tissot is adding two new colors to the celebrated PRX Powermatic 80 35mm: fan-favorite Ice Blue and a PVD Gold. The PRX landscape has never looked more diverse, and those who prefer an automatic movement in the more approachable size can now choose between six flavors: Black, Green, Blue, White Mother of Pearl, Ice Blue, and Gold. It’s hard to believe that it has already been two years since Tissot reintroduced the PRX, a watch with origins from 1978. With its angular case and integrated bracelet, it’s right on trend and has been a calling card for those looking to get into the integrated sports watch game without selling a kidney. Over time, the lineup has grown to include quartz and automatic watches in both 40mm and 35mm. By gradually adding size, color, movement options, and even a chronograph, Tissot has earned its place on the shortlist for affordable yet satisfying sport watches. These new PRX 35mm watches are powered by Tissot’s Powermatic 80. Based on the ETA 2824-2 caliber, the Powermatic’s improved spring barrel efficiency and lower beat rate of 3Hz allow for an impressive power reserve of 80 hours. Unlike their 40mm counterparts, however, the new 35mm PRX watches boast near-universal wearability. This is largely attributed to the way the first bracelet link extends as it meets the case. A 6mm reduction in lug-to-lug distance from 51mm to just under 45mm (44.9mm to be exact) makes this a completely dif...
Worn & Wound
For the better part of two decades, Wempe has been producing high-quality watches out of their home in Glashütte, Germany. Three new models from their Iron Walker collection have been released, each exhibiting the Vorliebe that our Teutonic cousins have for precision, beauty, and exceptional quality. The first to debut in the new Iron Walker collection is the Diver. Taking inspiration from the steel constructions that defined the era of imagination in 1920’s New York, the Diver marries the simplicity of a good watch and the beauty of a great watch into one. At 42mm, it’s a robust size but the overall finish, such as the diminutive day date and the lumed hands, help to keep it from feeling too bulky. The Diver comes in two colorways (blue and black), is water-resistant to 30 bars, and runs on a ETA 2892-A2 automatic movement, giving the wearer up to 50 hours of power reserve. Next up in the Iron Walker collection is Tide. Mixing maritime influences to the collection, this watch is as much about function as it is about form. While one could enjoy the balance of blue and black against the steel case alone, the real beauty is the internal mechanism of this watch. For life on the coast, the Tide’s rotating bezel offers maximum visibility on how much time will elapse between the next low or high tide. Similar to the Diver above, the Tide shares similar specs, such as an ETA 2892-A2 automatic movement, 30 bars of water-resistance, and lumed hands and hour markers. Last, ...
Teddy Baldassarre
If you're seriously into dive watches, you probably know that the Doxa SUB is one of the most important and influential members of that popular genre, but if your interest in underwater timepieces and their history is more casual, you may not be aware of Doxa's unique spot in that pantheon of pioneers that includes household names like the Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Here is a brief history of the Doxa SUB and a rundown of where the watch renowned for bringing orange dials to the watch world stands today. Bound for Glory Doxa founder Georges Ducommon, a native of the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle and one of his family’s 13 children, came to watchmaking early in life. He began an apprenticeship with an established local watchmaker in 1880, and within less than a decade had developed the skills, creativity, and resolute confidence to start his own business. He founded Doxa in 1889, naming it after a Greek word meaning “glory,” a bold harbinger of the successful future Ducommon envisioned for his brand. That success came in fairly short order, with Doxa pocket watches winning accolades at World’s Fairs in Belgium, in 1905, and in Italy, in 1906. With automobile racing becoming a popular pursuit in the early part of the 20th century, Ducommon filed a patent in 1907 for a caliber with an eight-day power reserve, which became standard equipment in the dashboard clocks of Bugatti race cars. After Georges Ducommon’s death in 1936, Do...
WatchAdvice
The chance to experience the latest 3 day Radiomir from Panerai was too hard to pass up. But how did it hold up, especially comparing it to the 8 Giorni I road-tested a month or so ago? What We Love Vintage styled design aestheticSlim case profile sits flush to the wristTextured dial and aged lumed numerals What We Don’t Thick strap is a little chunkyNo see through caseback3 Day Manual Winding Overall Rating: 8.875/10 Value for money: 9/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 Back in June, I was able to experience the new Panerai Radiomir 8 Giorni that the brand released for Watches and Wonders this year. I was immediately drawn to the distressed look of the eSteel and the blue smoked and textured dial. Check out my review of it here for the full details. So when the opportunity came up to wear the Tre Giorni (three day) version for a couple of weeks, and be able to compare directly to the 8 Days variant, I jumped at the chance. And what better place to photograph a watch with nautical and Navy roots than down by the bay and marina! Seemed fitting to take a naval inspired watch to the marina for some photos First Impressions Now, the differences between the Tre Giorni and the Otto Giorni are not huge, and other than the movement’s power reserve, it’s basically aesthetics. But then the look of a watch is a major factor when it comes to what you choose. It either looks good and resonates with you, or it doesn’t. The first impression of the Tre Giorni is ...
Time+Tide
The Bovet 1822 Récital 23 is advertised as a women’s watch, however it can suit any lover of opulence. The Writing Slope case angles the dial towards you for easier reading. The moonphase display only needs adjusting every 122 years, and the twin-barrel movement offers 62 hours of power reserve. Bovet are a brand with … ContinuedThe post The new Bovet 1822 Récital 23 in green and blue is a visual extravaganza for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The last Bell & Ross I wrote about had a celestial feel to it, but with the new BR 05 Chrono Green Steel, we’ve landed back on earth. With its mixture of steel and vibrant green, this BR 05 mixes urbanism with an architectural lean to it. Think Central Park in New York or the Tiergarten in Berlin – a respite of greenery in the middle of a steel-and-concrete jungle. Like all BR 05 models, the Chrono Green Steel retains its aviation-inspired squared dial that Bell & Ross now markets to the urban explorer crowd. And with its integrated steel bracelet and sleek design, it’s easy to see why. All models in the Chrono collection are equipped with a circular seconds subdial at 9 o’clock and a 30-second timer at 3 o’clock, creating a balance to the visuals of the watch that somehow fit neatly within the linear confines of the square dial. The date is cleverly tucked away in the small recess between 4 and 5 o’clock, hardly noticeable but definitely there. Like an urban planner, Bell & Ross has ensured that no bit of real estate has gone unnoticed. The green sunray dial and Super-LumiNova indices and numbers soften the overall feel of the watch itself. Coming in at 42mm of satin-polished steel, the use of green feels more inviting and less, well, cold. The BR 05 Chrono Green Steel is equipped with a Swiss-made self-winding BR-CAL.326 movement, which can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back, and supplies the wearer with 60-hours of power reserve. The BR 05 Ch...
SJX Watches
Hublot has once again partnered with its favourite contemporary artist for Only Watch 2023: the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire is a one-of-a-kind creation for the biennial charity auction that is entirely unique from case to movement. Not only it is the brand’s first-ever central tourbillon, the watch has a sapphire crystal case in the shape of a flower with a bezel set with rainbow gemstones. Initial thoughts While Hublot is sometimes made fun of for its often repetitive limited editions that are colour facelifts, the creation for Only Watch is entirely new and entirely unique. Hublot and the Japanese artist have collaborated in the past, but on watches that were variants of standard models. In contrast, the Murakami Only Watch pushes boundaries even by Hublot’s extravagant standards with a case entirely in sapphire, and flower-shaped no less. The Murakami Only Watch is also interesting mechanically. The calibre inside has a 150-hour power reserve along with a large, central tourbillon on the front. And the movement is unique to the Murakami Only Watch, at least for now. The aesthetic and mechanical novelty of the Murakami Only Watch are impressive and certainly makes this one of the highlights of Only Watch 2023. While Hublot will almost certainly create variations of this in the future, the effort expended in creating Murakami Only Watch is commendable. The Murakami Only Watch has an estimate of CHF350,000 to CHF400,000, with the high estimate being a ...
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross has just released their latest interpretation of their urban living-inspired BR 05 GMT range, the Sky Blue. With its mixture of cool steel and blue highlights, this automatic watch definitely lives up to its heavenly name. The BR 05 GMT Sky Blue is a watch designed for the urban inhabitant that enjoys a subtle – yet noticeable – presence on their wrist. With its squared design, it’s bold without being ostentatious, the way any good watch worth its salt should be. The Sky Blue is able to toe the line between being vintage-inspired and totally contemporary, drawing at times from classic integrated bracelet sports watch designs, but in a notably Bell & Ross way, using their well understood square case as a starting point. The look of the watch itself is impressively modern. The steel case is satin-polished for a warmer look while the caseback is sapphire, featuring a 360° oscillating weight. It’s the subtle touches that are now synonymous with Bell & Ross that elevates this watch above others under the label’s offerings. The Sky Blue, like others in the BR 05 GMT range, is powered by a Calibre BR-CAL.325 automatic movement (a rebadged Sellita SW330). This will give the wearer a 42-hour power reserve. This watch also features a GMT complication that allows for the tracking of a second time zone. Cleverly painted on the flange, day and evening are distinguished by a split color scheme: gray for the daytime (6 am to 6 pm) and blue for the night-time (6 p...
Worn & Wound
Certina continues to be a deep-cut watch brand for us folks here in the United States, but for our friends across the Atlantic (and the watch nerds located stateside alike), the value oriented brand remains a fixture amongst the watch community. There’s plenty to enjoy from Certina’s catalog and since their return to the U.S. market in 2021, they’ve hit the ground running with successful releases that include the DS PH200M, the DS Action GMT and in my opinion, the best-kept-secret midsize diver out there with the DS Action Diver 38mm. Sure you’ll occasionally get a curveball from the brand with a dress watch or two, but Certina is at their best when they operate within the lane of their DS Action line. In a span of a couple of months, Certina has bolstered their bread-and-butter collection with the addition of two intriguing divers – a serious, blacked-out DS Action Diver 43mm and a proper midsized titanium offering with the DS Action Diver 38mm. The DS Action Diver is a straightforward, no-fuss diver solidified by traditional design, a “Diver’s Watch” designation meeting ISO 6425 standards and an 80-hour power reserve equipped automatic movement. What separates the new DS Action Diver 43mm from the rest of the line is its stealthy appearance. The stainless steel case is layered with a PVD coating, all around from the lug ends to the crown guard tips and caseback. From the photos provided, it seems that any light hitting the case falls flat, but the bezel...
SJX Watches
Following the launch of a revamped flagship perpetual calendar, Breguet now reboots its famous pilot’s chronograph with the Type XX Chronographe 2057 and 2067. Descended from the military-issue watches introduced in the 1950s, the new Type XX makes its debut with a pair of watches – one military inspired and the other civilian – that are identical on a fundamental level but distinctly different in look and feel. Significant enhancements have been introduced with the latest-generation Type XX, including more sophisticated case finishing, but most notable is the newly-developed flyback chronograph movement with an extended power reserve and high-frequency, 5 Hz escapement. (The new models are referred to as Type XX, as are vintage pilot’s chronographs sold to the civilian market. Vintage military-issue chronographs are known as Type 20, as is historical practice.) The ref. 2067 modelled on the civilian Type XX of the 1960s Initial thoughts After introducing the Type XX and Type XXI, Breguet has returned back to the Type XX model name with a new watch that retains many of the distinctive design elements that define the Type XX, while incorporating significant improvements to the design, details, and of course movement. At 42 mm, the new Type XX is a large watch, but sized correctly for a pilot’s chronograph. The lugs are also relatively short so the watch sits well on the wrist. And enthusiasts will appreciate the fact that the case size corresponds to the movement....
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