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Time+Tide
Zach explains why, in his latest watch trade, he gave up his Rolex Explorer 1016 and Lange 1815 Up/Down for a Breguet perpetual calendar.The post I gave up my prized Rolex and Lange for this gorgeous Breguet Classique Perpetual Calendar 3057 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
For many of us, “that special watch” is something we may have bought to mark an occasion. Perhaps it was a gift. For Tom Place, his special Rolex Submariner is out there, somewhere, at the bottom of a lake in the United States. He is hell-bent on recovering it one day. Some people like wearing […] Visit One Man’s Ongoing Quest To Find His Long-Lost Rolex Submariner to read the full article.
Fratello
The dust has barely settled, but this year’s Watches and Wonders was already labeled lukewarm. Some even called the releases disappointing or underwhelming. I am not sure I agree. Granted, there wasn’t an earth-shocking release that we will all add to our collections, no further questions asked. But should there be? Are we perhaps setting […] Visit Do We Set Ourselves Up For Disappointment Going Into Events Like Watches And Wonders? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Yesterday, Zach Weiss, Kat Shoulders, and Zach Kazan told you about their favorite watches from Watches & Wonders week. Today, our contributors have their say. Their choices reflect the incredible diversity of watches at the show (even in what most consider a somewhat slow year) and show that there are lots of great watches that we’ll all continue to discover from the event, sometimes from unexpected sources. Tanner Tran By many accounts, the releases of Watches & Wonders 2024 were a relatively muted affair. We saw a lot of massaged designs and logical extensions of existing product lines. But that’s not to say there weren’t any new releases. The Cut, a new sports watch from Hermès, was one such example and a personal favorite of mine. I have a sneaking suspicion this watch will appeal to anyone looking for an uncommon 36mm integrated bracelet sports watch – that is to say, a lot of people – even though ‘The Cut’ is a little more than implicitly marketed as a ladies’ piece. With its rounded case (almost Cartier pebble-like) and variants featuring diamond-studded bezels, ‘The Cut’ is a softer alternative to its sibling, the H08. I really dig the design and find that it neither feels overly done nor half-baked. The applied numerals carry a distinct Hermès typography, and the orange accents along both the inner dial and second hand add a nice touch of contrast. The execution of the quick-change bracelet (and strap) is also simple and elegant. On that n...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Seiko Bell-Matic Alarm Watch The Seiko Bell-Matics are well known amongst collectors, however this model is one you don’t see very often. The uniquely styled case is a big ol’ cushion shaped chunk of steel, measuring 39mm wide. This example looks unpolished and has the original brushed finish. The bezel has a nice blue acrylic insert that looks really cool. The dial is a super dark blue, and is in great shape, with bold steel hands and a red seconds hand. The crown is at 3 o’clock, and the alarm button is recessed at 2 o’clock. The watch comes on the original broad link bracelet, which is always a bonus. The movement is clean and the seller states the watch runs and works properly. View auction here Vintage Vantage Chronograph Here we have a gorgeous vintage Vantage chronograph, with a stunning reverse panda style dial. The steel case has a slim bezel and slim, straight lugs, giving it that “poor man’s Carrera” look. The black dial with dual silver subdials is really sweet, and in great shape with nicely aged lume. Really a simple, classic chronograph that has a timeless design. The watch is powered by the workhorse Valjoux 7730, which is clean and recently serviced ...
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Hodinkee
Three years after the passing of Gino Cukrowicz – Journe's co-founder– Journe announced a watch fit to his outsized, colorful, and highly-missed personality.
Deployant
A quick view of all the Rado 2024 novelties (video) with a focus on our highlight from the collection - the True Square x Kunihko Morinaga.
Worn & Wound
With Watches & Wonders in the books and a few weeks of space from the deluge of new releases, it’s time to look back on the show and figure out what really spoke to us. It was, by most accounts, a somewhat slow year for new releases, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t a lot of great watches to choose from for a retrospective article like this. And for this exercise, we’re not limiting ourselves to watches exhibited at Watches & Wonders proper, either. There were literally hundreds of brands with new watches to show throughout the city of Geneva during Watches & Wonders week. We didn’t see them all, but we caught as many as we could, and these are the watches that stand out as favorites. Stay tuned tomorrow for favorites from our roster of contributors! Zach Weiss I usually have difficulty picking favorites after events like Watches & Wonders. One sees so much, so quickly, that making judgments is difficult, and what’s left in one’s mind after is sort of an image cloud of memories. No single thing overtakes any other. But this year was different. Since the show, I’ve found myself thinking about two watches, or rather, one watch and one case/movement combo. The watch is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon in platinum. Yes, I’ve gone full fancy pants and chosen a nearly six-figure watch, but hear me out… it was gorgeous. Admittedly, the Duometre line is one that I’ve had a bit of a fascination with over the last year or so, as the original...
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard continues with their aggressive limited edition release strategy this week with a new collaboration that sees the brand partnering with celebrated watchmaker and jeweler Cédric Johner. Johner began his career as a jeweler at the age of 15 in 1982, and turned to watchmaking later in life. He continues to work out of his Geneva workshop to this day, with a focus on traditional craft, including good old fashioned handwork with traditional tools. He practices what he calls “intuitive watchmaking,” which for him means creating a timepiece without a set plan. This obviously flies in the face of how most modern watches are created, but allows Johner a level of freedom and creativity in his design that would be hard to match otherwise. His work, which consists largely of one-offs and unique pieces, is often characterized by playing with expectations related to geometry and shape, which comes through clearly in this pair of limited edition regulators for Louis Erard. The Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner limited editions consist of two watches in Louis Erard’s less frequently used 39mm Excellence case. The visual impression of these watches is immediately very different from any other Louis Erard collaboration thanks to the hexagonal bezel, which is a Johner hallmark. The dial arrangement, though, will be familiar to anyone who has been tracking these regulators over the years, with running seconds at 6:00, hours at 12:00, and a centrally mounted minu...
Time+Tide
Russell musters all of his skiing experience to discover what makes the avant-garde brand tick.The post What makes Richard Mille so different? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Deployant
A new Louis Erard collaboration. Ths time with Cédric Johner with the release of a new Le Régulateur in two dial flavours.
SJX Watches
MB&F; has released the third instalment of its automobile-inspired wristwatch, the HM8 Mark 2. Now in blue CarbonMacrolon, the latest HM8 Mark 2 follows on the green and white iterations introduced last year. Inspired by 1970s sports cars like the Lamborghini Miura, the new Mark 2 retains the model’s signature speedometer-like display for the time and “double bubble” sapphire crystal. Although the CarbonMacrolon panels of the case are also found on earlier versions, the material has been tweaked to incorporate ingredients also found in automotive paint, giving the case a metallic, sparkly blue finish resembling a car’s paintwork. Initial thoughts Though only a cosmetic update to the model, the latest HM8 Mark 2 is the most striking to date. Though the change of colour might seem like a trivial matter, the new paintwork is a perfect complement to the styling and concept of the watch – the metallic finish really does evoke the paintwork of a high-end automobile. Interestingly, the new Mark 2 feels sleeker than the earlier versions thanks to the paintwork, even though the watch is identical in dimensions and form. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard version, and the same movement is visible in the “engine bay” through the sloping sapphire crystal. The Girard-Perregaux calibre has been MB&F;’s base movement of choice almost since its founding two decades ago, so something more interesting would be a useful upgrade, particularly since the movement i...
SJX Watches
As its collection of decorative, high-end timepieces reaches its fifth decade, Seiko commemorates the occasion with the Credor 50th Anniversary Eichi II (ref. GBLT996) for the occasion. Limited to just 30 watches, this is the very first Eichi in yellow gold. The anniversary edition features a deep blue, ruri porcelain dial and the hand-finished Spring Drive cal. 7R14 inside. Like the other Credor Masterpiece models, the new Eichi II is produced at the Micro Artist Studio, a small workshop dedicated to artisanal watchmaking. Initial thoughts The new Eichi II is largely identical to the versions in platinum and rose gold, differing only in the case metal. It does, however, look very different. Although the ruri dial is identical to that on the platinum model, the colours seem richer here. Yellow gold and blue is a combination that works well, and it is particularly appealing here, perhaps because of the simplicity of the design. Notably, the anniversary Eichi II is priced in between the regular production versions in rose gold and platinum. Considering the small number made and the intrinsic quality of the watch, it is certainly a compelling proposition. Ruri glaze First found on the platinum model, the dark blue dial is finished with ruri, a type of glaze that results in a glossy, deep blue finish that varies in hue with the light. Instead of the stark white indices found on the platinum model, the dial markings here are in gold. However, the markings are more elaborate th...
Fratello
Although I have worked in the watch industry for years, this year marked my first trip to Watches and Wonders. When I was a vintage dealer, I simply had no business at the fair, and I had to skip it in my first years at Fratello due to personal circumstances. This means I went into […] Visit How Events Like Watches And Wonders Influence Writers Like Me to read the full article.
Revolution
As the pinnacle annual event in the world of horology draws to a close, Wei and Oliver R. Müller, esteemed founder of LuxeConsult and co-author of the Morgan Stanley report, offer a comprehensive analysis of Watches & Wonders 2024. Delving into the intricacies of the fair, they shed light on why this year’s showcase stands […]
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Quill & Pad
After years of thinking that a Nautilus wasn't for him, in 2018 the Patek Philippe Reference 5740 was introduced and GaryG immediately asked for one. That started a four-year wait during which his gentle nudges were met by polite head shakes. And then . . .
Worn & Wound
Mother’s Day is just over two weeks away, so it’s the perfect time to begin brainstorming thoughtful gift ideas. Any mom – or caretaker – anywhere knows that time is the most precious and priceless gift a person can give, so what better way to show appreciation than with a special timepiece? The following watches are designed to bring smiles to their owners, and we hope this gift guide can be a starting point as you shop for your loved ones. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is standing by to answer any questions you have. You can book a consultation here. Mother’s Day is just over two weeks away, so it’s the perfect time to begin brainstorming thoughtful gift ideas. Any mom – or caretaker – anywhere knows that time is the most precious and priceless gift a person can give, so what better way to show appreciation than with a special timepiece? The following watches are designed to bring smiles to their owners, and we hope this gift guide can be a starting point as you shop for your loved ones. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is standing by to answer any questions you have. You can book a consultation here. The post Mother’s Day Gift Guide 2024 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
Heirloom watches are special, and I have a few, including two pocket watches. But there is one in particular that has given me sleepless nights while hiding in a dark corner of my case. Finally, I set out on the mission of bringing my grandfather’s Tissot Seastar back to its glory. And after a three-month […] Visit Bringing My Grandfather’s Tissot Seastar Back - Is Refinishing A Crime? to read the full article.
Deployant
Celebrating the 10th Anniversary of the F.P. Journe Élégante, François-Paul pays tribute to the co founder of Montres Journe SA. This is Gino's Dream.
SJX Watches
When Rolex surprised with the launch of the 1908 last year, we liked it – Brandon Moore wrote a positive review. Now Rolex has followed up with the Perpetual 1908 in platinum (ref. 52506) with an “ice blue” guilloché dial of notably high quality. Though identical in almost all respects to the versions in gold, the new 1908 is very different – and significantly more compelling. Initial thoughts Done the traditional way with a hand-operated machine, the guilloché dial gives the watch an entirely different character. The pale blue is also more modern and striking than last year’s colours, which were fairly old fashioned. At the same time, the dial has a slightly glossy finish that gives it an even brighter hue. The guilloché transforms the dial, which was fairly staid in the earlier models. I would still do away with the peculiar hands inspired by the Submariner and other sports watches, but the dial is attractive as it is. The dial is engraved on a hand-operated rose engine Not only does it look better, the platinum 1908 also feels more appealing. It has the same slim profile as the gold versions, but has more heft thanks to the denser case material. More generally, it has the same tactile quality as all Rolex watches – it feels tangibly well made despite the compact size. While the dial is impressive artisanal quality, the rest of the watch is outstanding industrial quality. Though the case is thin, it is exceptionally robust and solid, as is the screw-down ...
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Fratello
As with the years before, I looked forward to this year’s edition of Watches and Wonders. I looked forward to the buzz, the week-long immersion in top-shelf horology, the close cooperation with Fratello team members, and, of course, being reunited with several colleagues from the industry. Beforehand, expectations on what the brands should present weren’t […] Visit Fratello Favorites: Gerard’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases to read the full article.
Revolution
Wei sit down with Pierre Jacques, CEO of De Bethune, as we discover their 2024 novelties, the highlight is definitely the DB Kind Of Grand Complication.
Revolution
We have a chat with Master Cheng Yu Cai on his craft of Guilloché using the rose engine machine he built himself to create Atelier Wen’s beautiful dials.
Revolution
Wei sit down with Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bulgari, as we discove their new 2024 novelties, including the superbly thin Octo Finissimo Ultra.
Time+Tide
Omega expands the Speedmaster 38mm collection with a multitude of new models, choice of three materials, and two dial colours. There’s a choice of steel or Omega’s proprietary Sedna and Moonshine Gold alloys, and either brown or green sunburst dials, with the solid gold bracelets being a first for the collection. The pieces are powered … ContinuedThe post Omega launches a set of dazzling 38mm Speedmasters, with some collection-firsts (live pics and video) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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