Two Broke Watch Snobs
Rotary RW 1895 Heritage Chronograph Limited Edition Review
A full review of the Rotary RW 1895 Heritage Chronograph limited edition. Get full specs, photos, and an expert analysis from the TBWS team.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Monochrome
Introducing – Audemars Piguet 37mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3) in White Gold
Considered the precursor of the luxury sports watch category, the Royal Oak turned fifty in 2022. As expected, Audemars Piguet went to town to fete its icon with a host of celebratory models. However, the excitement grew when AP unveiled the first 39mm Jumbo to be fitted with an ultra-thin flying tourbillon (calibre 2968). Officially […]
Worn & Wound
Roger W. Smith and His Unique Series 1 Made for British Watchmakers’ Day
British Watchmakers’ Day is nearly upon us. Tomorrow, March 9, watch lovers from across the UK (and across the world – our own Zach Weiss and Blake Malin will be in attendance) will descend on Lindley Hall in Westminster to celebrate all that British watchmaking has to offer. The event is run by the Alliance of British Watch and Clockmakers, and was conceived to raise awareness and money for the Alliance, which works to support watchmaking in the UK by fostering ties between its trade members. Roger W. Smith, the famed independent watchmaker who famously apprenticed for George Daniels, was an early Alliance member and one of the group’s most vocal supporters. He’s taking part in British Watchmakers’ Day this year alongside many of his colleagues in the Alliance, and he’s particularly excited about the diversity and the representation from a new generation of watch brands that will be present. “The vast majority of our trade members are outside of traditional horology,” Smith told me in an interview. “That’s very exciting to me, it means we’re going to have lots of innovation, lots of ideas, and new stories taking place.” One of those new stories is a watch Smith himself will be presenting at British Watchmakers’ Day, which is loosely organized around participating brands bringing limited edition pieces to sell for one day and one day only at the fair. For Smith, this presents a challenge and an opportunity. His watches are largely made by hand...
Monochrome
Introducing – A New Moon Rises at Glashütte Original with its Serenade Luna Collection for Women
The Lady Serenade and PanoMatic Luna are Glashütte Original’s two mechanical watch collections for women. While the PanoMatic Luna is essentially a slightly smaller version of the men’s model, the Serenade collection was conceived as a ladies’ watch from the start. Available with time-and-date functions, the Serenade takes on a new complication in the form of a moon phase […]
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 3 - Featuring Omega, IWC, Heuer, And More
Another Friday, another Top 5! It’s time for the third installment of our mini-series focusing on pre-owned sleeper watches. In it, we want to highlight some less obvious watches from different brands. Some of these are watches you may never have heard of, while others might be good reminders of forgotten greats. In this week’s […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 3 - Featuring Omega, IWC, Heuer, And More to read the full article.
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Tissot’s Most Capable Dive Watch Gets Some New Offerings - Tissot Seastar 2000 Black PVD
Deployant
New: Leica SL3 Singapore launch event report
Leica announced the next generation of their SL system with the new SL3 replacing the SL2. We attended the Singapore launch event and bring you this report.
Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet unveil an appropriately stylish new AP House in Milan
The Le Brassus brand opens its new AP House in Milan, seven years after the AP House concept made its debut in the city.The post Audemars Piguet unveil an appropriately stylish new AP House in Milan appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – Seven New Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Models in Pink Gold with Textured Dials
Audemars Piguet reveals new models that showcase the evolutionary design introduced on the first stainless steel Code 11.59 references in 2023. To update the more subdued and widely criticized design of previous dials, a unique “signature” embossed dial pattern has been specially created for this collection, together with different hands and markers, in collaboration between […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Updates SPB Range Of 62MAS Prospex Divers
The Seiko Prospex SPB143 re-interpretation 62MAS diver has proven itself as one of Seiko's most popular modern dive watches. It's budget-conscious, durable, and captures the vintage vibes of the 62MAS while standing up to the rigors of daily use. Now, Seiko has decided to make some very small updates to the "1966 Diver’s Re-Interpretation” lineup that elevate the models in a very big way.
Time+Tide
John Mayer joins forces with Audemars Piguet for a dazzling Royal Oak QP
This stunning blue collab is a send-off for the legendary Calibre 5134.The post John Mayer joins forces with Audemars Piguet for a dazzling Royal Oak QP appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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I Disagree With Nico Leonard's Watch Rankings.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Debuts a Royal Oak Pair with Smoked Yellow Gold Dials
Audemars Piguet has just launched its “first semester collection” that’ll take us through the first half of the year. Most are variations of current models, with two of the most striking sharing the same dial in “smoked yellow gold”, namely the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding 37 mm (ref. 15550BA) and the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm (ref. 26240BA). Both are fashioned in yellow gold and complemented by a striking dial with a gradient yellow gold finish, conceived to homage to the brand’s yellow gold Royal Oak models of the 1970s. Initial thoughts The smoked yellow gold finish was introduced on the Royal Oak “Jumbo” in 2022, so the new releases aren’t a surprise. Nonetheless, it is satisfying to see this dial finish on more compact models like the 37 mm ref. 15550. Between the two releases, the time-only ref. 15550 is the standout. The clean, radially brushed dial pairs perfectly with the finely grained texture of the frosted case. On the other hand, the dial finish is less punchy on the chronograph due to the traditional tapisserie guilloche. The chronograph, however, is an imposing watch overall due to its size and weight. The time-only model retails for CHF55,000, while the chronograph is priced at CHF63,000 – both sit in the current range for similar Royal Oak models. Neither is a value proposition, though both are appealing variants of the design. Smoked yellow gold dials Both new launches are variants of existing models, compact Royal ...
Monochrome
First Look – John Mayer Teams Up with AP for a Spectacular Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
It’s no secret that Audemars Piguet has long been involved with celebrities and influential people from the world of music. It usually goes well beyond ambassadors and AP has launched several watches in collaboration with musicians – the latest to surface was the chocolate ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” made with Travis Scott. […]
Fratello
Audemars Piguet Lays Its Cards Out For 2024 - Including A Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar John Mayer Limited Edition
Audemars Piguet is making sure its 5134 caliber gets a proper goodbye. The successor of the legendary 2120 movement is being discontinued…but not just in any watch. None other than John Mayer had the honor of coming up with one last dial and case design for a limited-edition Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. In addition to […] Visit Audemars Piguet Lays Its Cards Out For 2024 - Including A Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar John Mayer Limited Edition to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Happenings: First Ever British Watchmakers’ Day To Be Held In March
The inaugural event will be held at Lindley Hall in Westminster, London, with over 40 confirmed exhibitors.
Worn & Wound
Independent Watchmaker Sergey Chutov and His Fortress Collection
Not everyone has the courage to turn away from an established career, and take a risk on something that brings them joy. The watch industry is saturated with watches and watch brands focusing on every price point; from the powerhouses supported by the conglomerates they’re nestled under, to the independent and microbrands that have filled the market with innovation at a value cost, it can be hard for a new watchmaker to find their place. Sergey Chutov is an independent watchmaker that’s staking his claim, a fortress on a crowded battlefield, with pride, design, craft, and complex mechanics melting into the forge. Until 2018, Sergey worked as a civil judge in Moscow. While going about his days he often found that his mind would drift to his passions. “One day I noticed that my thoughts were more occupied with watches than with legal work,” he told me. Eventually, Sergey made the decision to change the course of his life, and set down the path to gathering more knowledge about watches. “I spent 4 years learning how to make watches and honing my skills before making my first model,” he said. That first model that Sergey is alluding to would be his Fortress I. There are currently five Fortress models that make up Sergey Chutov’s body of work. Each one with a similar DNA and evolving motif, with variations on movement, materials, and style. When I think of a “fortress” my mind goes to something cold and uninviting, but these watches, although arguably star...
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Why Did Watch Gringa Change Her Name? (feat. Britt Pearce)
Worn & Wound
Bulova Adds New References to their Surveyor Collection
When talking about value driven timepieces, it would be foolish to exclude Bulova from the conversation. From their Lunar series to their Precisionist line and their aptly nicknamed Devil divers, Bulova is one of the essential bang for your buck watch brands. Furthering their cause, they are launching 3 new colorways to their popular Surveyor collection, along with a special new gold-tone option. There will now be a striking pistachio (light green) version, with a quick release brown leather strap and a dark green version on matching quick-release 3-link stainless-steel bracelet. Both will have silver-tone dial furniture and hands, while a new burgundy edition will have rose gold-tone accents and crown. The latter will also be supplied on a matching 3-link bracelet. Along with these new stainless-steel models, as previously mentioned, there will be a fully gold-tone edition. This one will feature a stunning champagne dial, with cut-outs so that the wearer can admire the beating heart powering this timepiece. Not only are the watch and bracelet gold-tone, but the movement plates and rotor have been given the gold treatment as well. All these new pieces share the same 39mm case, featuring sculpted edges and faceting, along with a mix of polished and brushed finishing. Topping these watches is a flat sapphire crystal, adorned with a date magnifier and they will be powered by a Japanese (Miyota) 21-jewel automatic movement that boasts a 42-hour power reserve. These vibra...
Fratello
Breitling Goes Deep For Its Dark SuperOcean Automatic 44 UK Limited Edition
Hot off the heels of the stealthy Chronomat from February, Breitling brings another muted-tone beauty for March. The latest exclusive limited edition for the UK market is the SuperOcean Automatic 44. Like the aforementioned Chronomat, Breitling pairs this SuperOcean’s black dial with an anthracite hue. However, instead of chronograph counters, the SuperOcean features lacquered anthracite […] Visit Breitling Goes Deep For Its Dark SuperOcean Automatic 44 UK Limited Edition to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçoin de Genève Plique-à-jour
Introducing the Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçoin de Genève Pique-à-jour. A magnificent artistic addition to the arsenal of Louis Vuitton.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Tourbillon with Plique-à-Jour Enamel Dial
Making full use of its recently established enamel workshop, Louis Vuitton debuts the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Plique-à-Jour. Equipped with a skeleton tourbillon movement bearing the Geneva Seal, the new Voyager features a dial of translucent enamel in a gold lattice that is similar to stained glass. Initial thoughts The Voyager tourbillon was unveiled in its original format in 2016. I examined the watch at the time, and came away impressed by both the design and finishing, though I felt it was pricey. The case was elegantly proportioned and sat particularly well on the wrist, being just over 9 mm tall. And the movement was surprisingly airy while having a high level of decoration equivalent to that found in establishment haute horlogerie names. The plique-à-jour is essentially the same thing but with an enamel dial. The thickness of the dial adds to the case height, bringing it to over 11 mm, so the new tourbillon doesn’t have the slimness but it remains an elegant watch. The artisanal dial does add another level of appeal, particularly since this enamel technique is not often used in watches, particularly on the large surface of entire dial. Personally I would have preferred colours other than blue and grey for the enamel, but geometric, repeating “V” motif of the dial is attractive. As for the price, well, this is an expensive watch, though arguably not as much as in 2016.. Louis Vuitton has come a long way since as a watchmaker, with the br...
Time+Tide
Need some reading material? We’ve put together a killer NOW Magazine bundle
Every edition of NOW both in print and digital formats for 50% off? Yes please.The post Need some reading material? We’ve put together a killer NOW Magazine bundle appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Every Watch Tells A Story: Asmini's Longines DolceVita
Time+Tide
Jason Kelce’s retirement Rolex has a meaningful backstory
Milestones are a common reason (or excuse) for collectors to buy new watches. Jason Kelce had the best excuse of them all for his commissioned Rolex.The post Jason Kelce’s retirement Rolex has a meaningful backstory appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Auctions: A Rare Vintage Heuer Carrera With Racing Provenance Up For Sale At Sotheby's
The vintage Carrera Sunray DX is one of perhaps a dozen given to racing team members in the '60s.
Teddy Baldassarre
Rado Watches: A History of Mastering High-Tech Ceramics
Once a relative rarity, ceramics have today been firmly established as go-to materials in the luxury watch industry, alongside traditional metals such as gold, steel, and titanium. But no single watchmaker is more associated with ceramics in the horological realm than Rado, which has not only made the tough, scratchproof, hypoallergenic material a core part of its identity but continues to pioneer new frontiers in what can be done with it. Here’s the story behind Rado’s host of technical innovations, from early “hardmetal” alloys to today’s signature high-tech ceramic, and how two of the brand’s milestones from 1962 have become inextricably linked in the modern era. From DiaStar to Diver's Watch Rado was founded in 1917 by brothers Fritz, Ernst, and Werner Schlup, who converted their parents’ home in Lengnau, in the Swiss canton of Bern, into a watch factory. Originally dubbed Schlup & Co.,the family firm started out making movements, becoming an important supplier during the World War II years. Forty years after its foundation, in 1957, the company launched the Rado watch brand, taking its name from the Esperanto word for “wheel.” The very first timepiece made under the new Rado banner was the Golden Horse (modern tribute model above), which was also one of the first wristwatches marketed with an emphasis on its antimagnetic properties. It was the harbinger of the technical innovation that the company would adopt as part of its stock-in-trade going forwa...
Worn & Wound
Marathon Introduces a New Steel Navigator with an Automatic Movement
If you want immediate Watch Nerd cred with something coming in at around the $1,000 price point or less, there are a handful of options for any budding (or experienced) watch enthusiast. Seiko, of course. G-SHOCK, too. And you can have your pick from many great microbrands, including Lorier, Baltic, and Brew, and too many others to name. If your tastes veer toward the tactical, however, and you happen to be a lume connoisseur, Marathon is (somehow) still under the radar, makes a high quality, well designed watch that just about anyone who has been around the horological block will appreciate. Their newest release, an automatic version of their 41mm Steel Navigator, takes a classic Marathon silhouette and gives it an automatic movement. Marathon has been manufacturing timing instruments of all kinds for various militatires since the 1940s, and the Navigator case, with its familiar asymmetrical shape, will scream “issued military watch” to many collectors. The original Steel Navigator traces its roots to the 1980s, when it was developed in partnership with Kelly Air Force Base for use by pilots. Everything about the design is function first – this is a pure tool watch if there ever was one. It’s got a 12 hour bezel for foolproof tracking of a second time zone, a two-tiered hour track with a 12 and interior 24 hour scale, a 41mm case crafted from stainless steel without a polished surface in sight, and, maybe most notably, an array of tritium tubes on the dial and h...
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Speedmaster Moonwatch with a White Lacquer Dial
First seen on the wrist of actor Daniel Craig late last year, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with a “lacquered white dial” is now official. Dial aside, it’s identical to the standard Moonwatch with the cal. 3861. The new Speedmaster is regular production and priced almost exactly the same as the standard model. Initial thoughts The new Speedmaster is only a dial variant of the familiar Moonwatch in black. It isn’t substantively novel, though it is notable for being regular production. Historically, Speedmasters with white or silver dials have been either limited editions, like the Alaska Project, or in precious metal, like the model in Canopus gold. The watch itself, however, is executed well. The lacquered dial is slightly glossy and matched with black-coated hands and markers, with the red “Speedmaster” giving it colour. For only US$100 more than the regular model – which is iconic but also common – this is certainly a compelling alternative. White, red, and black The new Speedmaster features a dial with a lacquered finish that gives it a smooth, glossy surface. According to Omega, this is the first Moonwatch with a lacquered dial. Though the finish is different, the dial retains all of the details that characterise the Moonwatch dial, including the step on its perimeter and recessed registers with concentric graining. The hands and applied markers also retain the same classic design, but are finished with a black coating for legibility. Notably, the sta...
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