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The Swatch Group

Largest Swiss watch employer (~17,000 staff). 18 brands from Breguet/Blancpain at the top to Swatch at entry. ETA SA + Nivarox-FAR. Hayek family controls.
A Grand Seiko “First” 3180 Remake in Titanium and Powder Blue SJX Watches
Grand Seiko First” 3180 Remake Feb 24, 2024

A Grand Seiko “First” 3180 Remake in Titanium and Powder Blue

Having just opened its first boutique in Singapore, Grand Seiko has now announced a limited edition especially for the store. The Elegance Collection Singapore Boutique Exclusive SBGW315 is essentially a new take on the “First” cal. 3180 remake. Instead of traditional colours and materials, the SBGW315 renders the familiar design in titanium with a patterned, powder blue dial. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko releases a lot of limited editions – a Spring Drive pair was just announced two weeks ago – but the SBGW315 unexpectedly manages to be different. For one, the base model of the edition is infrequently iterated. The last variant of the “First” remake I can think of was from early 2023 when Grand Seiko unveiled a version with a maki-e lacquer dial. Additionally, past “First” limited editions were more traditional in colour, with plain dials in either silver, cream, or dark colours like black or blue. The SBGW315, on the other hand, combines the aesthetics of the “First” with a decidedly contemporary powder blue dial finished with a radial feathered pattern. While the colour and pattern are hardly novel, they give this watch a distinctive look. Even amongst the numerous Grand Seiko limited editions, the SBGW315 stands out. And it will continue to be uncommon as long as Grand Seiko doesn’t roll out more version of the model in additional colours – which is an overly optimistic assumption given the brand’s inclination towards such watches. A new(ish)...

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Zenith Chronomaster Sport Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Feb 23, 2024

Zenith Chronomaster Sport Guide

When the Zenith Chronomaster Sport won the Chronograph Prize at the 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève, the watch world’s most prestigious awards, it was emphatically something new and different: the first chronograph watch able to measure 1/10-second chronograph readings on its bezel scale. However, despite the fact that the Chronomaster Sport collection can still be considered “new” in a practical sense, its origins, both aesthetic and technical, can be traced back much further, all the way to some of the earliest horological milestones of Zenith, one of the Swiss watch world’s most honored and accomplished watchmakers and the inventor of the groundbreaking movement that animates all the Chronomaster models, including the Sport. I spoke with Zenith’s Head of Heritage, Laurence Bodenmann, to help trace the evolution of the Chronomaster Sport and its strong ties to several noteworthy models of the past.    Zenith traces its impactful watchmaking history all the way back to 1865, and an ambitious 22-year-old watchmaker named George Favre-Jacot. A contemporary of the influential Swiss artist and designer Le Corbusier, a pioneer of avant-garde architecture, Favre-Jacot adopted a similarly modernist approach to watchmaking when he founded his atelier in Le Locle in the Swiss Jura. Taking cues from American watch firms like Waltham and Elgin, which had found success by introducing mass production into the traditionally artisanal trade, Georges Favre-Jacot & Co.,...

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Everybody Writes: a Beginner’s Guide to Pens Worn & Wound
Feb 23, 2024

Everybody Writes: a Beginner’s Guide to Pens

When you sit and think about it, there’s quite a few similarities between a pen and a watch. Both are utility objects, initially designed for practical purposes, and have since evolved into industries driven by both passion and interest. And likewise for both pens and watches, there exists a tiered level of prestige, with options at every budget, from the simple and utilitarian to the highest of luxury.  But maybe the most obvious similarity is that each can be broken down into varying modes which affect the way either a pen or watch is used and enjoyed. For watches, we have the option for quartz and mechanical movements, as well as a number of hybrid and exotic options. And for pens, there are three broad categories which encompass the majority of writing utensils on the market: rollerball, ballpoint, and fountain pen. While I’m sure you’re at least familiar with these terms, a lot of people might not fully understand the differences in application, writing capabilities, and general feel when it comes to picking up one versus the other. So if you’re curious to know about each type of pen – and maybe fall into a rabbit hole of pen collecting – keep reading for a brief explanation of the differences between the three. Rollerball: A Grown-Up Gel Pen Rollerball pens are often celebrated for their precision, operating on a deceptively simple yet highly effective mechanism. At the pen’s tip,a small tungsten carbide ball is held into a socket, which, as the pen gl...

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Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 1 - Featuring Rolex, Zenith, Omega, And More Fratello
Zenith Omega Feb 23, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 1 - Featuring Rolex, Zenith, Omega, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we kick off a series of Top 5 lists with some great pre-owned options. With ever-increasing list prices of new watches, finding a nice pre-owned one could be a great way to go. In the upcoming articles, we want to highlight some remarkable options. Some are familiar, some […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 1 - Featuring Rolex, Zenith, Omega, And More to read the full article.

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Exploring Evergreens: Rolex Datejust 36mm Ref. 1601 Fratello
Rolex Datejust 36mm Ref 1601 Feb 23, 2024

Exploring Evergreens: Rolex Datejust 36mm Ref. 1601

In this edition of Exploring Evergreens, I am covering the Rolex Datejust ref. 1601. This is a watch that is very dear to me as it represents one of my professional milestones. But even without that sentimental value, it is one of the greatest watch designs of all time to me. The Cyclops, the fluted […] Visit Exploring Evergreens: Rolex Datejust 36mm Ref. 1601 to read the full article.

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Up Close: Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes SJX Watches
Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes Feb 23, 2024

Up Close: Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes

Breguet recently unveiled the latest generation of its minute repeater wristwatch, which embodies minimalist classicism. The Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes has a fired enamel dial in glossy black with just two pomme hands and Breguet-style numerals in silver-powder print – and a case that is a surprisingly large 42 mm. Inside is the cal. 567.2, a variant of the calibre that has equipped Breguet repeating wristwatches since the 1990s. But while today’s cal. 567.2 still has the familiar layout of a traditional striking movement, it incorporates a series of upgrades that give the 7637 particularly impressive acoustic qualities. Initial thoughts The 7637 in its latest guise is a beautiful, elegant watch in the traditional Breguet style. Traditionalists might say the black enamel dial is too stark, but the look is still quintessential Breguet in my eyes. Moreover, this is the best iteration of the model to date. Compared to the earlier open-dial model, the new ref. 7637 is restrained and refined in the manner expected of Breguet. The latest 7637 with an enamel dial (left), and its predecessor that featured an open dial revealing engine-turned movement plates Even though the 7637 is descended from prior generations of Breguet repeating wristwatches – the movement originates in the 1990s – it sounds substantially better. The volume, clarity, and tonality of its chimes are leagues ahead of its predecessors. This results from upgrades to both the movement as well as ca...

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25 Best All-Black Watches From Entry-Level to Luxury Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 22, 2024

25 Best All-Black Watches From Entry-Level to Luxury

While blue-dial and green-dial watches have emerged as perennial favorites for aficionados in recent years, "all-black" watches - that is, timepieces with ebony-colored cases, dials, and often even straps - have remained an intriguing niche for those seeking a stealthier style or to add a hint of dark edginess in their timepiece ensemble. Here are 21 all-black watches in a range of price categories for those looking to embrace the dark side.  G-Shock DW5600BB-1CR Price: $99, Case: 42.8mm, Thickness 13.9mm, Lug-To-Lug: 48.9mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water-Resistance: 200m, Movement: Quartz The DW5600BB model of Casio’s iconic and mega-popular G-Shock sports the original rectangular-cased, digital-display design that has been a mainstay since 1983, as well as a watch-world forerunner of the all-black look. The classic gray field of the LCD dial frames the watch's compact readout of time, date, and running seconds. Like most all watches in G-Shock’s extensive DW5600 family, its durable resin case boasts a 200-meter water resistance and its digital functions include a 1/100-second stopwatch, countdown timer, multi-function alarm, a full calendar accurate to 2099, and an electro-luminescent backlight with afterglow. Citizen Nighthawk Black PVD Price: $391, Case: 42mm, Lug Width: 26mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water-Resistance: 200m, Movement: Quartz Eco-Drive, Water-Resistance: 200m The Citizen Promaster Nighthawk Black PVD sports a highly technical dial that takes its cues from ...

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#TBT A Winter Trans-Carpathia Rally With My Omega Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday 2 “Ultraman” Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday 2 Feb 22, 2024

#TBT A Winter Trans-Carpathia Rally With My Omega Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday 2 “Ultraman”

I had to count the years on my fingers like a little kid over again and again. I wanted to be sure that I got it right. I couldn’t believe that it has been nearly six years since the Omega Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday 2 “Ultraman” came to light! I was even more surprised to realize […] Visit #TBT A Winter Trans-Carpathia Rally With My Omega Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday 2 “Ultraman” to read the full article.

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Hands-On With A Trio Of New World Timers From Farer Fratello
Farer I am happy Feb 22, 2024

Hands-On With A Trio Of New World Timers From Farer

I am happy to go on record and say that a world timer simply makes more sense than a GMT. A GMT watch, particularly one with a quick-set 12-hour hand, is a true traveler’s watch. However, I spend countless hours sitting in my home office but communicating and collaborating with colleagues and friends worldwide. After […] Visit Hands-On With A Trio Of New World Timers From Farer to read the full article.

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Fratello Talks: With Jérôme Burgert And Gabriel Vachette Of Serica Watches Fratello
Serica Watches Feb 22, 2024

Fratello Talks: With Jérôme Burgert And Gabriel Vachette Of Serica Watches

In this week’s episode of Fratello Talks, we’re pleased to welcome special guests Jérôme Burgert and Gabriel Vachette, the men behind Serica watches. They join your host and Fratello’s managing editor Nacho Conde for a deep dive into the ever-classy French microbrand ahead of its fifth anniversary. They delve into the brand’s origins and evolution […] Visit Fratello Talks: With Jérôme Burgert And Gabriel Vachette Of Serica Watches to read the full article.

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New Release: Louis Moinet Astronef Techno Unique Piece Featuring Two Flying Tourbillons and a Eye-Catching Iridescent High-Tech Silicon Wafer Dial Quill & Pad
Louis Moinet Feb 21, 2024

New Release: Louis Moinet Astronef Techno Unique Piece Featuring Two Flying Tourbillons and a Eye-Catching Iridescent High-Tech Silicon Wafer Dial

The ever-changing colors of the silicon wafer dial on the Louis Moinet Astronef Techno are not caused by light reflections but by iridescence. This is the phenomenon of a surface changing color as the angle of view or the angle of illumination changes. But there is much more to this unique piece watch than a stunning dial.

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Elka Teams Up with Ace Jewelers for a New Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Feb 20, 2024

Elka Teams Up with Ace Jewelers for a New Limited Edition

The Elka Watch Co. continues to build upon its vintage-inspired D-Series lineup with the D-Series Essence, a limited edition collaboration with Ace Jewelers released Friday. The Essence is intended to reduce a watch to, well, its essence. It’s not the first watch to explore minimalism in design, though the inspiration behind it is certainly unique. The Essence marks the second collaboration between Elka and Ace Jewelers, the first of which saw the release of four limited edition watches with different languages’ numerals. This is, in some ways, a continuation of that series, still interested in numerals, now exploring what a watch looks like in their absence. The deep blue dial features no markings aside from the words “Elka Watch Co.” and “Automatic” below the 12 o’clock and the words “Swiss Made” at the bottom of the dial. Unobstructed by indices or any additional text and with a 41mm case and a domed crystal, the blue dial is reminiscent of the open sea. The dial features a subtle sunburst that prevents it from feeling too flat or visually uninteresting. The 40.8mm stainless case features a screwed-in caseback with 30 meters of water resistance and is 46.5mm lug to lug. The La Joux-Perret G100 automatic movement inside the watch gives it a 68-hour power reserve, and has become a signature of Elka’s products, having been used in its watches since Elka released its first watches on Kickstarter in 2022. Hakim El Kadiri, who re-launched Elka in 2022, has...

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Up Close: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Feb 20, 2024

Up Close: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription

Announced a year ago as only a computer-generated rendering, the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription finally arrived in tangible form earlier this year with a finished prototype that was exhibited at LVMH Watch Week. At a distance the Tourbillon Souscription is practically indistinguishable from the originals that inspired it. But up close it stands out for the high quality of execution, which in many respects is superior to the originals, as well as the subtle tweaks to the design. The Tourbillon Souscription certainly bodes well for the revival of the brand, though its future will hinge on novel and original creations. Like all future Daniel Roth watches, this was produced by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the Geneva manufacture owned by Louis Vuitton that has vertically integrated itself at a rapid pace in recent years. Initial thoughts I was surprised when I first examined the Tourbillon Souscription prototype. It manages to capture the feel of the originals, but even surpasses them in some aspects, most notably the guilloche dial. It’s worth noting the dial is done in-house by LFT’s recently-acquired guilloche workshop, though the production examples will have a dial made by Voutilainen. This level of quality certainly raises exceptions for future watches from Daniel Roth and the wider LFT stable, which includes Gerald Genta. Amongst the other visible upgrades are the decoration on the base plate visible below the tourbillon. This reflects the new calibre within that...

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Chiming Watches: 12 Exceptional Minute Repeaters, Alarms, Sonneries, a Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 19, 2024

Chiming Watches: 12 Exceptional Minute Repeaters, Alarms, Sonneries, a

Chiming watches represent one of the most coveted types of complicated watches in the world - despite the fact that they are also one of the most archaic and, in practical terms, obsolete. The most popular type is the minute repeater, which chimes the time audibly on demand; it was invented for pocket watches in the 18th and 19th Century as a practical method of alerting its wearer of the current time in the dark, in the era before electric lighting and luminous details on watch dials. Definitively regarded as more a luxury today than a tool, a minute repeater has an independent chiming mechanism with two small hammers striking coiled metal gongs, generally activated by a slide on the side of the case, to produce different tones for the hour, quarter hour, and minute. The most sophisticated of these chiming watches might also include a grande sonnerie, and/or petite sonnerie: the former perpetually strikes the hour every hour and the hour plus the quarter-hour at every quarter, without any need for the wearer to activate it with a slide; the latter strikes the hour every hour, and the quarter-hour (but not the hour) every quarter, also independently of any activation by the wearer. Sometimes the chiming functions are even coordinated with moving, elaborate dial animations called automata. Watches with chiming functions tend to be rather rare and almost always prodigiously expensive, but a handful of watchmakers have managed to create examples that are slightly less compl...

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