Revolution
Introducing the Monaco 1989–1999 Limited Edition
TAG Heuer introduces number three of five limited editions, created to mark the 50th anniversary of their iconic Monaco chronograph this time, celebrating the 90s.
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Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).
Chronograph dial with high-contrast sub-counters. Vintage Daytona, Speedmaster CK 2998, Heuer Carrera; modern 116500LN, Tudor Chrono.
Chronograph scale converting flash-to-sound time into distance. WWI artillery-spotting origin; vintage Longines / Lemania / Heuer.
Chronograph scale reading heart rate in BPM after counting 15 or 30 pulse beats. The 1920s-60s doctor\'s watch standard.
Revolution
TAG Heuer introduces number three of five limited editions, created to mark the 50th anniversary of their iconic Monaco chronograph this time, celebrating the 90s.
Time+Tide
It’s hard to overstate the importance of the Zenith El Primero. The movement, an elegant, high-beat column-wheel chronograph, is impressive enough. It’s even more impressive when you factor in that this miniature engineering feat was the first automatic chronograph to be presented as a working prototype - after seven long years of development. Just as … ContinuedThe post The history of the Zenith El Primero – 6 moments that defined one of the most important movements in watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Among vintage military watches, some are more interesting and significant than others. They include the IWC Mark 11 and Rolex “Milsub”, and also the early Type 20 chronographs made by Breguet for the French air force and navy in the 1950s. Breguet has revived the first-generation, military-issue Type 20 for Only Watch 2019. The one of a kind remake is faithful not just in terms of dimensions and aesthetics, but also the movement. Instead of a modern calibre, it is powered by a refurbished, vintage Valjoux 235 movement, just like the original. Breguet Type 20 “Only Watch” And a bit of nomenclature explanation before proceeding: “Type 20” refers to a French military specification for pilot’s chronographs, which refers to the original, military-issue watches. Watches produced for the civilian market, including the modern day models, are identified by the model name in Roman numerals – Type XX. The origins After WWII, Breguet was one of several watchmakers, including Mathey-Tissot, Airain, Vixa, Auricoste, and Dodane, that supplied Type 20 chronographs to the French Air Force and Naval Air Force. While the actual Type 20 specification has been lost, the general consensus is that it called for a watch a prominent seconds track, a 38mm-ish case with a screw-in back and thickness of not more than 14mm, accuracy of within eight seconds a day, and most crucially, a flyback chronograph with a start-stop function that would work reliably at least 300 ti...
Hodinkee
The brand's unique contribution is a vintage-influenced, manually wound flyback chronograph that uses a historical column-wheel movement.
WatchAdvice
“An all-time favourite among pilots and aeronautical enthusiasts since 1952” – Breitling If you have ever been on the look out for a pilot’s watch, whether being a pilot yourself or just having pure admiration for the workings of pilot watch then the Breitling Navitimer has to be up there at the top of the list. Breitling has a variation of models in the Navitimer range, with sizes ranging from 38mm all the way to 48mm. The model we have in our hands today is the Navitimer 01 version in 43mm diameter. This Navitimer is the previous edition to the current Navitimer 1 B01 Chronograph in 43mm diameter. The two models are relatively unchanged with the new model getting a facelift logo on the dial and the addition of a sapphire crystal case back for the first time on a 43mm to showcase the B01 movement. At first glance the dial does look super busy. But there’s a reason why everything is the way it is. When the Navitimer was launched in the 1950’s it was considered one of the most practical tool watches made available for Pilots. It’s no wonder then that the Navitimer was endorsed as the official timekeeping instrument of the “Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA)”. With only a few minor updates the navitimer has remained unchanged, with Breitling even going on to claim that this is the only wristwatch that has a chronograph function that is in continuous production for more than 50 years. So what exactly is the features present in the Navitimer d...
SJX Watches
Austrian watchmaker Habring² is well-regarded for its affordable, cleverly engineered watches, particularly the Doppel rattrapante. Now Habring² takes the Doppel a step further: the Perpetual Doppel combines the mono-pusher, split seconds chronograph with a perpetual calendar, while still keeping it affordable as such things go. Constructed atop its proprietary A11 movement (itself derived from the robust Valjoux 7750), the Perpetual Doppel is unusual in using a complications module not made by Habring², which typically designs its own complications. Instead, the watch uses the tried and tested perpetual calendar module produced by Dubois-Depraz, a complications specialist that also supplies the module to other makers of affordable perpetual calendars. This makes the Perpetual Doppel the most complicated serially produced Habring² watch, though the brand has produced one-off repeaters and tourbillons in the past. The Perpetual Doppel is generously sized at 43mm in diameter to spread out the calendar displays as much as possible to maximise legibility. But despite the added height of the perpetual calendar, the case manages to stay just 12mm high. Readability is also helped by the red gold-gilded hour numerals and red gold-plated hands that contrast with the brushed, silvered dial. And the chronograph has two central seconds hands for the split-seconds function, along with a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock for elapsed minutes. The Habring² c...
Time+Tide
This year, Zenith is lucky enough to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the El Primero automatic chronograph, which is being marked with the release of the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival. This is a very cool watch for a number of reasons, but first, let’s look back a half century. The birth of the El … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Why the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival is one of the best reissues of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
One of the surprise highlights from the recent Swatch-stravaganza that was Time to Move was Blancpain’s Air Command – a really neat reissue of an historic pilot’s chronograph. It’s fair to say that prior to this release, knowledge of the Air Command was limited to hardcore Blancpain fans and seasoned professionals. Well, the timing couldn’t … ContinuedThe post This old Blancpain Air Command commands an impressive price at auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A classic chronograph was reimagined as a three-hand sport watch – so how did it turn out?
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: To celebrate the Aquanaut’s 20th birthday in 2017, Patek Philippe released the enlarged (from 40 to 42.2mm) and quietly in charge Aquanaut ref. 5168G. a watch that remains a reminder of the collection’s youth. In more recent years, the model has struck confident new poses such as the ref 5968A chronograph, with its popping orange … ContinuedThe post This is why the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 20th Birthday edition was such an important signal of things to come appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Zenith celebrates the 50th anniversary of the El Primero by releasing a homage to the legendary high-frequency chronograph. The "revival" trilogy is a series of 3 solid gold watches in white, pink and yellow gold. To mark this anniversary, the watches are issued in 50-piece limited editions with a 50-year guarantee.
Revolution
At Time to Move, Blancpain presented vintage military-themed diver’s and pilot’s chronograph steeped in lore and mystique.
Time+Tide
The watch industry likes to throw the word ‘icon’ around, often with very little basis in fact. However, when talking about the TAG Heuer Monaco, that moniker is well and truly earned. The disruptive, innovative square chronograph - one of the first automatic chronos on the market - turned 50 this year. I was expecting … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 1969-1979 Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When we were shown the new Blancpain products at Time to Move, we expected to see Fifty Fathoms and Villeret. We did not expect a pilot’s chronograph. But, oh boy, was the Blancpain Air Command a pleasant surprise. On its face, this 500-piece limited edition is a very handsome heritage-styled number, with a 42.5mm steel … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Air Command appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Jaquet Droz starts strong with a new variant to the Grande Seconde collection by adding a chronograph. The movement is supplied by Manufacture Blancpain, and two versions are offered. The chronograph is a monopusher via a coaxial pusher at the crown. Versions are offered: One in a red gold case with the counters aligned, andRead More
Deployant
TAG Heuer introduces the new Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon, an all black tourbillon chronograph with sporty yellow accents. TAG Heuer scientists have developed a carbon composite hairspring.
Deployant
Zenith released a new first in watchmaking technology, with the 100th of a second chronograph named DEFY El Primero 21 – which began in 2017. The same year, Zenith unveiled DEFY Lab, an ‘archetype’ regulated by a revolutionary oscillator developed by the Manufacture and issued in a 10- piece limited edition.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph might not be the first watch that comes to mind when you think of IWC (it’s not a Pilot for example), but really, maybe you should change that. Just look at Jason’s snaps from our 2018 review. The story in a second: The sportiest member of the Portugieser family … ContinuedThe post IWC make that luxury yacht life look oh-so-good appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Over at Bulgari, the reign of the Octo Finissimo continues to flourish. At Baselworld 2019 the ultra-thin heavyweight collection gained two strong new members. And over on the women’s side, there’s a new golden serpent to adore. The hero of Bulgari’s set piece is the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT, a very smart addition (in both … ContinuedThe post LIST: 3 of the best Bulgari watches from Basel 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Line extensions for Czapek this year to the Faubourg de Cracovie line. If we remember the line is a new chronograph with vertical clutch. New is the salmon series which we covered the Press Release. Case size 41.5mm in SS at CHF 24,000 before taxes. Next line comprise of expressions in enamel. The first isRead More
Deployant
We begin with the Black Bronze with a new slate grey dial, 43mm S$5,544, not limited. The earlier brown dial is now discontinued. Movement is MT5601. Next is the Black Bay Chronograph in Steel and Gold. Three versions: in fabric, bund leather and bracelet. The diameter remains at 41mm but the thickness is now 14.5mm,Read More
Deployant
Hublot explodes with lots of everything again this year! We start with the new Sang Bleu 2 chronograph in the Unico movement now in two materials in Ti and King Gold. Same 45mm case with more facets on the construction. LE 209 pcs in Ti and S$33,000 and S$62,000 in gold LE100. The Orlinski isRead More
Deployant
Bulgari breaks the thinnest records again. Fifth World Record. 2014: tourbillon. 2016: Minute Repeater. 2017: Automatc Micro Rotor. 2918: Tourbillon Automatic. And this year the GMT Chronograph. This year two incredible pieces: First the Finnissimo Chronograph GMT in sandblasted titanium case. Ultra thin Chrono movement of only 3.3mm. Case 6.9mm in an slightly larger 42mmRead More
Deployant
Breitling continues to impress with more releases for modestly priced watches done well. We begin with the Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Norton. S$11,800 with deployant buckle. This Premier B01 is new dial execution in Black with gold numerals and a collaboration with Norton Motorcycles. Next is an almost identical replica of the original ofRead More
Deployant
We are at the Grand Madison with Patek Philippe. Kicking off with the 5235/50 R-001 regulator dial retail at S$68,300 in rose gold. 40.5mm, 10mm height. Day, date and moon. Ref 5905 Flyback Chronograph with Annual Calendar first launched in 2015 in plat, and now in RG. S$86,600. Next is the 5172 Chronograph. Handwound WGRead More
Revolution
The Omega Speedmaster ’57 Co-Axial Chronograph gets aboard a pair of retro-styled Royal Enfields for a trip along the open roads of California.
Time+Tide
Over the last few years, Cartier’s watch releases have been consistently impressive, alternating between savvily commercial and outrageously stunning. This year we saw that strong trend continue. Cartier Santos de Cartier Chronograph The big news was the addition of a chronograph to last year’s wildly popular new Santos. In addition to complication, this model adds … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 5 of the hottest new Cartier watches from SIHH 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The talk of town is the new AP collection which is dubbed Code 11.59. Code is an acronym for Challenge Own Dare Evolve and 11.59 is AP’s way of telling the world that they are always 1min ahead of the game. The collection is a full one, 13 references. From automatic to Chronograph, Perpetual Calendar,Read More
Deployant
We kick off with the Girard Perregaux novelties. The new collection: Laureatto Absolute with a magnificent blue dial in a titanium PVD, 44mm and water resistant to 300m. The wwTC. And the Chronograph. The Chrono can be be operated under water. And the hero piece: the GP Cosmos – celestial and terrestrial globes giving theRead More
Time+Tide
Feelings. We all have them. They make us human. They make us who we are. But sometimes they can get the better of us. Like, remember when Tudor released the Black Bay chronograph? Boy, that seemed controversial at the time. And then there was the new Rolex Air-King. Holy smokes! Who could forget all this madness? Neither, … ContinuedThe post OPINION: 3 stress relief ideas if the new Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 collection is causing you discomfort appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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