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Monochrome
While the Speedmaster started its life as a racing chronograph destined to measure average speeds (hence its name), it quickly changed vocation when, during the 1960s, it became the watch of choice for US Air Force pilots and, of course, NASA astronauts. From there, the Speedmaster became one of the most famous pilot’s chronographs and […]
Monochrome
Born in the mid-1950s as a watch designed for people working in magnetic environments (hence its name), the IWC Ingenieur is mostly remembered in its 1976 shape when IWC released the SL Jumbo reference 1832, designed by Gerald Genta using his classic integrated luxury sports watch concept. It took some years for IWC to finally […]
Monochrome
Circula might be a relatively new brand to some, as it was only revived in 2018. However, it was originally founded in 1955 by Heinz Huber, but what makes this different from most reboots is Cornelius Huber, the grandson of Heinz, who’s behind the brand today. So, Circula is truly a family business and already […]
SJX Watches
Created in collaboration with the aviators of Aéronautique Navale, the air branch of the French navy, the Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time is Tudor’s latest wristwatch developed for a militaruunit. A sibling of Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” issued to French navy divers, the Pelagos GMT Zulu Time is housed in a titanium Pelagos case with fixed lug bars (hence “FXD”). Featuring a ceramic bezel with a luminescent 24-hour scale, the Pelagos GMT adds the long-awaited second time zone function to the Pelagos line of professional-spec dive watches. It sports a bright orange GMT hand along with faux-vintage, vanilla-tone block markers and “snowflake” hands. Initial thoughts Tudor was a historical supplier of watches to the French navy starting in the 1950s, a relationship that was revived in 2021 with the Pelagos FXD. The Pelagos GMT continues the partnership, but pivots to address the needs of naval pilots instead of divers. This also makes it more useful for civilians, since a dual time zone function is more practical for most than a deep-sea diver’s watch. At 42 mm in diameter, however, the Pelagos GMT is one of Tudor’s larger watches, which means it probably isn’t as handy for traveling as the compact Black Bay 58 GMT that’s just 39 mm. Still, the titanium case helps with lightness, and the large size suits the military design. In typical Tudor fashion, the Pelagos GMT is an excellent value proposition. For US$4,625, you get a titanium case with ceramic bezel,...
SJX Watches
Seiko has just announced a pair of regional exclusives for its longtime distributor in Southeast Asia, the Seiko 5 Sports SSK043K1 and Prospex Speedtimer SSC951P1 Thong Sia Group Editions. Available only in Singapore, Hong Kong, Macau, Malaysia, and Brunei, the Thong Sia Group (TSG) limited editions are inspired by basketball, hence the salmon dials with black accents that echo the colour of the balls. The solar-powered Speedtimer chronograph Initial thoughts Seiko produces some of the best offerings in the affordable price segment, and the TSG duo demonstrate that amply with strong price-performance ratios. The Seiko 5 Sports, for instance, is an automatic with second time zone for 654 Singapore dollars, or about US$500. While the basketball link is a bit of a stretch, the metallic-finish copper (or “salmon”) dials are appealing. Though the shade is popular, the colour is less common in affordable sports watches in this price range, making this pair a little more interesting. The Seiko 5 Sports with a GMT function A handy travel watch The TSG edition is based on the Seiko 5 Sports GMT, which is basically a diver-style watch with a second time zone function. It has a stainless steel case that is 42.5 mm in diameter and 13.6 mm high. Water resistant to 100 m, the case is satin-brushed on top with mirror-polished bevels on the side of the lugs. In traditional Seiko 5 style, it has the crown positioned at four o’clock, which was originally conceived to indicate the w...
SJX Watches
Having been a fait accompli since the summer, LVMH is now a key sponsor of Formula 1. Starting in 2025, the 10-year sponsorship deal will see the French luxury group become a top-level sponsor of F1. Several LVMH brands will be part of the sponsorship, including Louis Vuitton, TAG Heuer, and its drinks division Moët Hennessy that owns champagne makers like Moët & Chandon. Coming just after Louis Vuitton’s high-profile presence at the 2024 Paris Olympics, the F1 sponsorship deepens the group’s involvement in sports and popular culture. Spearheaded by Frederic Arnault, the head of LVMH Watches, the deal is worth about €100 million annually according to an LVMH insider. “For many years, several of our Maisons have also chosen to invest in Formula 1…”, said Mr Arnault, “We want to further grow this experiential dimension that Formula 1 provides all over the world.” From left to right: Stefano Domenicali, President & CEO of Formula 1; Greg Maffei, President & CEO, Liberty Media; Bernard Arnault, Chairman & CEO, LVMH Group; and Frédéric Arnault, CEO, LVMH Watches LVMH takes the place of Rolex as a “Global Partner” of Formula 1, the highest-level of sponsorship, putting the group alongside Amazon and Aramco. The deal was sealed as Formula 1’s owner, American entertainment giant Liberty Media, has successfully grown F1 beyond its traditional audience with new race locations like Las Vegas, a hit Netflix reality series, and an upcoming movie starring Brad...
Monochrome
Released in 2021, the Presage Style60’s was positioned as Seiko‘s vision of a casual, all-rounder-oriented and vintage-inspired watch. Far from the classism of the Craftsmanship Series or the funky colours of the Cocktail models, this collection was loosely based on the 1964 Crown watch, Japan’s first wrist chronograph – hence the sporty touch of this […]
SJX Watches
Following the 2022 debut of its first ever tourbillon – and the brand’s most complicated watch ever – Grand Seiko follows up this year with the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT005 “Daybreak”. Mechanically identical to its predecessor (the SLGT003), the new Kodo still boasts a co-axial tourbillon and remontoir, a novel construction unique to the Kodo. But the Kodo SLGT005 is dressed in brighter colours of silver tones and pale greys, hence the “Daybreak” nickname. The result is a watch that’s less aggressively technical in style, but just as complicated. And thanks to its lighter palette, the technicality and decoration of the movement are arguably more prominent in the Kodo “Daybreak”. Initial thoughts The Kodo in its original form had a strikingly skeletonised appearance that maximised the view of its intricate mechanics, giving something of an anime sci-fi aesthetic. This was accentuated by the dark colours highlighted with vivid, dark red rubies. The new version, on the other hand, is both lighter in colour and visual weight. Because there’s less colour contrast in the movement, it appears a bit more classical and less stylised. A clever touch are the blue jewels to replace the conventional red ruby bearings, which enhances the “daylight” theme. The original Kodo SLGT003 from 2022 Even though it looks different, the Kodo SLGT005 is identical in technical terms. So it still has the impressively constructed movement with a novel approach to t...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin will soon stage From Geometry to Artistry in Singapore, an exhibition to showcase the brand’s latest timepieces launched Watches & Wonders 2024, as well as an interactive kinetic artwork by design studio Lanzavecchia + Wai. According to Vacheron Constantin, the new timepieces for 2024, ranging from the Traditionnelle to the Overseas, demonstrate artistry inspired by geometric shapes, hence the exhibition’s title, From Geometry to Artistry. The exhibition will take place in 48 Bukit Pasoh from July 22-28, 2024. It’s open to the public, but registration online is required. This year’s Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time with a green dial. La Bonsaï, the kinetic artwork by Lanzavecchia + Wai, was created in response reaction to exhibition’s theme. La Bonsaï is a mechanical bonsai-planétaire that goes into motion when guests touch the jewel-like plant. Each branch of the artwork is inspired by Vacheron Constantin’s signature finishes, components, and movements, including a large blue disc on the trunk of the bonsai references the sunburst, satin-finish dial of the Patrimony, as well as a sphere on the base of the plate that orbits the trunk, a nod to the moon phase display. La Bonsaï, 2024 by Lanzavecchia + Wai. From Geometry to Artistry Open daily to the public July 22-July 28, 2024 2:00 pm-9:00 pm 48 Bukit Pasoh Road Singapore 089859 For registration, visit vacheron-constantin.com.
SJX Watches
Time Capsule: The Breitling Heritage Exhibition is coming to a Breitling boutique near you as it makes 55 stops across four continents over the course of 2024. On show are the most significant vintage timepieces – mostly chronographs naturally – from the brand’s 140-year history, including the first-ever chronograph with a pusher separate from the crown, a 1915 invention of Gaston Breitling. Many of the watches on show were the first of their kind, hence the exhibition’s tagline “140 Years of Firsts”. Amongst the other highlights is the Navitimer with its slide rule bezel that Breitling describes as the first flight computer for the wrist, and the Chrono-Matic, the first self-winding chronograph movement developed by a consortium that included Breitling. Amongst the more recent timepieces is the Emergency, the first wristwatch with a built-in distress beacon. The vintage timepieces are exhibited in streamer-trunk display cases tailored to each boutique with QR codes in the showcases that provide additional historical detail Vintage timepieces are the main highlights of the show. The exhibition is making stops in key cities in the Americas, Europe, Oceania, the Middle East, and Asia, with some stops happening concurrently. Each stop will be for one to two weeks in the local Breitling boutique. Time Capsule is open to the public. Scheduling an appointment is not mandatory but recommended. A few of the cities that will host the exhibition are as follows, for the ...
Fratello
I’m sorry; I misunderstood the task at hand. This is not about me being given €7,500 to spend on three watches… I’ve reluctantly given myself a purchasing embargo, and for an addict, that’s not easy, hence the happy outburst. But I still relish the challenge of picking the best watches under €2,500, which is not […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Thor’s Picks From Tissot, SpaceOne, And Sinn to read the full article.
Monochrome
French brand March LA.B was founded in 2008 by three partners with a strong focus on retro design and a passion for surfing. With roots in Los Angeles and Biarritz (hence the LA.B acronym), March LA.B is not the easiest brand to pigeonhole. Its repertoire of shaped watches and surf watches have a twang of […]
Worn & Wound
A surprise release from Tudor this morning, less than two weeks ahead of Watches & Wonders. The Black Bay Chrono “Pink” is a very limited and very pink iteration of the brand’s Black Bay Chronograph, and coincides with the recent announcement of Tudor’s partnership with Inter Miami CF, the Major League Soccer Club owned in part by David Beckham (who is, of course, a longtime Tudor ambassador). Pink is the color most associated with the club, hence the pink dial for this release. On the surface, what we have here is quite simple: it’s a pink version of the Black Bay Chronograph that we’ve become familiar with over the last few years. Like the other watches in the collection, it’s a panda style dial, with black subdials complementing the pink main dial, framed by a black tachymeter bezel. The specs of this chronograph are exactly the same as other Black Bay Chronos, with a steel case measuring 41mm and water resistance to 200 meters. Tudor fans (and watch enthusiasts with great memories) will immediately link this watch to another, somewhat lesser known watch in Tudor’s collection, the Black Bay Chrono Dark. This watch was also made for a professional sports team (the New Zealand All Blacks, a rugby team) and has been made in very limited quantities since its unveiling (which was also a surprise) in 2019. The point here is that Tudor just does this sometimes, dropping a surprise chronograph outside the bounds of a big trade show, in association with one o...
Fratello
When Frédéric Arnault (29) became CEO of TAG Heuer in 2020 after joining the brand three years earlier, it demonstrated how much potential LVMH as a group saw in luxury watches. With him now appointed CEO of LVMH Watches in charge of Hublot, TAG Heuer and Zenith, LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton) has shown its […] Visit LVMH Is An Unstoppable Force That’s Unlocking The Luxury Watch’s Full Potential to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
The Urwerk UR-112 Aggregat is a fantastic new mechanical smorgasbord introducing an evolution of the boutique brand’s developments combined together, hence the German name Aggregat ("aggregate"). Since seeing the movement in the summer of 2021 Joshua Munchow had been very much looking forward to its launch. He wasn't disappointed.
Worn & Wound
When it came time to shoot the Farer x Worn & Wound Limited Edition, we decided, quickly, to turn to Farer’s own ambassador, Amy Heynes (née Shore) for lifestyle photography. An incredibly talented and stylized photographer, her specialty is in the automotive industry. In fact, she co-owns Willam Heynes Cars with her husband (William Heynes, also the model in the shoot), which specializes in Jaguar preservation and restoration. When it came time to shoot the Farer x Worn & Wound Limited Edition, we decided, quickly, to turn to Farer’s own ambassador, Amy Heynes (née Shore) for lifestyle photography. An incredibly talented and stylized photographer, her specialty is in the automotive industry. In fact, she co-owns Willam Heynes Cars with her husband (William Heynes, also the model in the shoot), which specializes in Jaguar preservation and restoration. The post Working With Photographer Amy Shore on the Launch of the Farer x Worn & Wound Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Calling Circula a microbrand feels like a bit of a disservice considering their history, but their approach to unique design and modern brand identity really does align with that of a much younger company. First founded in the Black Forest region of Germany in 1955 by Heinz Huber, who had been running a watch and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula AquaSport GMT is a funky diver with ’70s swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
And they tapped nature photographer Hannes Becker for help.
SJX Watches
Continuing the brand’s well-known intentions to liven up the Calatrava, Patek Philippe unveiled a brand-new take on its quintessential dress watch at Watches & Wonders earlier this year, the Calatrava ref. 5226G-01. The ref. 5226G indicates where the Calatrava line is going – more contemporary design, albeit still informed by vintage models hence the faux vintage lume, which is enhanced with sharper and higher quality detailing. Despite an entry-level watch of sorts (despite a substantial price tag), the ref. 5226G is nonetheless elaborately executed. The hobnail decoration found on last year’s ref. 6119 “Clous de Paris”, for instance, has been repurposed and applied to the case band. The dial gets a pronounced grained finish And the case a clous de Paris decoration Initial thoughts I first encountered the ref. 5226G in larger-than-life format when it appeared on the floor-to-ceiling display on the side of Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders. The scale of the projection meant the patterned dial and hobnail case were instantly obvious. Though unexpected elements in an entry-level Patek Philippe, they work well together, both on screen and in real life. Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2022 with its oversized digital display. Image – Watches & Wonders When I tried on the watch during the fair, my positive impression was reinforced. Even though the ref. 5226G is a combination of elements not usually put together, it is compelling and appealing in the metal. ...
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: Generally when people are interviewed by an august publication like the New York Times they tend to play things fairly safe. Luckily, when Robin Swithinbank rang Andrew for a quote for this story he was just returning from a long lunch. Hence the rather colourful quotes he came out with at the end … ContinuedThe post We can’t believe that Andrew said this about watches in the New York Times appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: Marc Hayek, CEO of Blancpain, Breguet and Jaquet Droz, said it best. “Platinum is among the noblest and most precious of metals,” he told The Financial Times. “It has extraordinary properties that make it extremely resistant, but also difficult to process and finish. Creating platinum watch cases requires special savoir-faire. It results in beautiful white/grey-coloured models that do not tarnish. Hence, platinum is … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Five platinum watches to put on your wish-list appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The headline lot at Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong watch auction, the Rolex “Zenith” Daytona in platinum is one of just five known. Already a million-dollar watch before, the Daytona just got that much more unusual with a fresh discovery: the dial is not a blue-lacquer “Stella” dial as previously believed, but it is actually turquoise mineral stone. According to Sam Hines, Sotheby’s head of watches, the discovery came about only recently when light fell on the watch just right, revealing a detail that was not obvious before: the sub-dials are of a slightly different colour and texture. So the dial and movement were removed from the platinum case for inspection. And a close look at the reverse of the dial revealed it to be mineral stone. “What appeared to be a classic ‘Stella’ dial is actually a natural hardstone turquoise dial with a lacquer coating on top,” explains Mr Hines, “The lacquer coating hides the natural grain that can normally be seen in any hardstone.” While a revelation, the mineral stone dial is an eminently logical feature. Only five platinum Daytonas with the Rolex cal. 4030 (based on the Zenith El Primero) were ever produced, reputedly at the behest of the late Patrick Heiniger, then the chief executive of Rolex. It is believed he gifted four examples to important business partners, and kept the final watch for himself. (One watch was gifted to a member of the family that owns a long-established Rolex store in Italy – we told the...
Quill & Pad
Versatility was at the top of Patek Philippe’s thoughts when the firm designed the Twenty~4. The goal was to achieve “a beautiful expression of today's contemporary woman” by creating a watch that can accompany women all day long. Hence the “24” in its name. Martin Green takes us through 20+ years of this now-iconic pillar collection.
Time+Tide
Any watch enthusiast whose tastes gravitate towards dive or tool watches will be familiar with the Seiko Prospex collection. It’s the bulletproof, no-nonsense collection that Seiko produce with the professional outdoors person in mind, hence the name Prospex – contracted from Professional Specifications. The Prospex line is now bolstered with the all-new Seiko SPB207, SLA047 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Inspired by a wilderness paradise come this trio of Seiko Prospex Diver 140th Anniversary Limited Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having sold the first publicly-known Daytona “Zenith” in platinum, Sotheby’s is going to offer yet another. Once again a unique example, the Cosmograph Daytona ref. 16516 in platinum – and a blue-lacquer “Stella” dial – will go under the hammer at Sotheby’s Hong Kong watch auction in April 2021. “Sothebys is delighted to present this automatic Zenith Daytona rendered in platinum with a ‘Tiffany blue’ lacquered ‘Stella’ dial in April,” says Sam Hines, Sotheby’s head of watches, who adds, “Manufactured in 1998, this previously unknown watch comes from the same collection as the record-breaking platinum Daytona with hardstone lapis lazuli dial sold by Sotheby’s last year.” The “Tiffany blue” lacquered dial of the platinum Daytona that’ll be sold in April According to Sotheby’s, only five platinum Daytonas with the Zenith El Primero movement were made in the late 1990s, at the request of Rolex’s then chief executive Patrick Heiniger. Each example was unique in having a different dial, but all were equipped wit the same cal. 4030 derived from the Zenith El Primero, which was phased out in favour of the in-house cal. 4130 in 2000. The late Heiniger kept one for himself, and gifted the remainder to key business partners of Rolex. Sotheby’s has since sold two of the five, each achieving a record price for an automatic Daytona. The first was a wedding present to a member of the Gobbi family that owns the eponymous watch retailer in...
SJX Watches
A newly established specialist retailer in Dubai, Perpétuel is making its debut with the Baltic x Perpétuel HMS and Bicompax, a pair of watches conceived to mark the 49th National Day of the United Arab Emirates, which was formed in 1971, hence the 71-piece edition. Both are variations of the signature timepieces of Baltic, a French brand that got its start on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter and has since made accessibly priced, retro-style watches its specialty. The HMS Initial thoughts Baltic offers a strong value proposition with its vintage-inspired watches featuring stepped bezels and sector dials that are powered by Chinese movements, explaining the affordable pricing. The Perpétuel editions are novel. Although their Eastern Arabic numerals on the dial are common in watches for the Middle East, they are not often found in entry-level watches, especially those with retro designs. Combined with the forest-green dial colour, both models are very much catered to the culture of the Middle East. But they also have substantial appeal for anyone outside the region, thanks to the colour, smart design, and graceful style of the Eastern Arabic script. But the Perpétuel are pricey, being notably more expensive than the standard models. However, they are still affordable in absolute terms, and considering the small, 71-piece run, remain fair value for money. HMS and Bicompax Both the HMS and Bicompax share the same case dimensions of 38 mm by 12 mm. Matched with a domed Hes...
Deployant
Last week, we talked about six modern watch icons that have made an impact in the watch industry. We think that although we have featured six watches, it is certainly not enough to cover the array of wonderful watches that deserve a spot on the list. Hence, in this week’s article, we have decided toRead More
SJX Watches
One of the “It” watches of the 2000s was the Patek Philippe Twenty~4, which was launched in 1999 as an elegant yet everyday watch for women in steel with a bracelet and quartz movement, making it affordable and chic. Having unveiled the round Twenty-4 automatic two years now, Patek Philippe has rebooted the original Twenty-4 “Manchette”, once again in steel with new dials in blue and grey. And like the original, it has a steel bracelet, hence the nickname – manchette being French for “cuff”. Initial thoughts While the round, automatic Twenty-4 is larger and perhaps more casual, the original rectangular model is more compact, giving it a slightly more formal style – but the new dial design avoids looking old fashioned. And the rectangular Twenty-4 has been around long enough it is easily recognisable, despite the relatively simple styling, making it the signature Patek Philippe watch for ladies. The central element of the new Twenty-4 is the facelifted dial. Doing away with the diamond indices and Roman numerals of the original, the new dial is cleaner and more modern, while also having luminous hands and hour markers. The upside of a quartz watch is that it more easily accessible than a mechanical watch, in both pricing and functionality, avoiding winding and setting the time. And this particular model does not have a second hand, so its identity is hidden. Priced at about US$14,700, the Twenty-4 is very expensive for a quartz watch with a steel case. An...
Deployant
When it comes to dress watches, its design is somewhat always predictable: Simple, elegant, and unassuming. Due to the fact that there are only so few elements for the watch manufacturers to explore, most of the dress watches have more similarities than differences. Hence, there are quite a sizeable number of collectors that find dressRead More
SJX Watches
Hermès introduced its first tourbillon, the Arceau Lift, in 2013, an early indication of the leather goods maker’s ambitions in technically-oriented watchmaking. The intertwined, double “H” tourbillon cage was modelled the wrought-iron door of the elevator in the Hermes’ fabled store in Paris at 24, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, hence the name. Seven years later, the Arceau Lift has been upgraded to incorporate a minute repeater. The Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes is being produced in just two examples – each unique – in pink and white gold respectively. Initial thoughts While combining two “high” complications is impressive, the whimsical house style of Hermes is what stands out at first glance. Elements like the asymmetric watch case and open dial are simple quite quickly identifiable as Hermes. More subtle is the dial, which is surprisingly discreet until you spot it. It’s cleverly designed to incorporate the brand’s familiar horse-head motif that takes the form of a cut-out that serves to show off the racks and snail cams of the minute repeating mechanism. The H1924 movement within is high quality in both finish and construction, and also incorporates the equestrian theme with a barrel bridge shaped like twin horse heads. But it is produced by Manufacture Haute Complications (MHC), a respected but struggling Geneva-based movement specialist that has supplied the same calibre to H. Moser & Cie., Dolce & Gabbana, and Artya. So while ...
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