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Results for Hans Wilsdorf

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Hans Wilsdorf

Founder of Rolex (1905) and Tudor (1946). Invented the Oyster case and the Perpetual rotor.
Breaking News: Rolex “Zenith” Daytona Platinum Discovered to Have Turquoise Stone Dial SJX Watches
Zenith Daytona Platinum Discovered Apr 21, 2021

Breaking News: Rolex “Zenith” Daytona Platinum Discovered to Have Turquoise Stone Dial

The headline lot at Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong watch auction, the Rolex “Zenith” Daytona in platinum is one of just five known. Already a million-dollar watch before, the Daytona just got that much more unusual with a fresh discovery: the dial is not a blue-lacquer “Stella” dial as previously believed, but it is actually turquoise mineral stone. According to Sam Hines, Sotheby’s head of watches, the discovery came about only recently when light fell on the watch just right, revealing a detail that was not obvious before: the sub-dials are of a slightly different colour and texture. So the dial and movement were removed from the platinum case for inspection. And a close look at the reverse of the dial revealed it to be mineral stone. “What appeared to be a classic ‘Stella’ dial is actually a natural hardstone turquoise dial with a lacquer coating on top,” explains Mr Hines, “The lacquer coating hides the natural grain that can normally be seen in any hardstone.” While a revelation, the mineral stone dial is an eminently logical feature. Only five platinum Daytonas with the Rolex cal. 4030 (based on the Zenith El Primero) were ever produced, reputedly at the behest of the late Patrick Heiniger, then the chief executive of Rolex. It is believed he gifted four examples to important business partners, and kept the final watch for himself. (One watch was gifted to a member of the family that owns a long-established Rolex store in Italy – we told the...

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Patek Philippe Twenty~4: Complete Overview Of Two Decades Of Timeless Elegance Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Complete Overview Mar 11, 2021

Patek Philippe Twenty~4: Complete Overview Of Two Decades Of Timeless Elegance

Versatility was at the top of Patek Philippe’s thoughts when the firm designed the Twenty~4. The goal was to achieve “a beautiful expression of today's contemporary woman” by creating a watch that can accompany women all day long. Hence the “24” in its name. Martin Green takes us through 20+ years of this now-iconic pillar collection.

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INTRODUCING: Inspired by a wilderness paradise come this trio of Seiko Prospex Diver 140th Anniversary Limited Editions Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex Diver 140th Anniversary Jan 26, 2021

INTRODUCING: Inspired by a wilderness paradise come this trio of Seiko Prospex Diver 140th Anniversary Limited Editions

Any watch enthusiast whose tastes gravitate towards dive or tool watches will be familiar with the Seiko Prospex collection. It’s the bulletproof, no-nonsense collection that Seiko produce with the professional outdoors person in mind, hence the name Prospex – contracted from Professional Specifications. The Prospex line is now bolstered with the all-new Seiko SPB207, SLA047 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Inspired by a wilderness paradise come this trio of Seiko Prospex Diver 140th Anniversary Limited Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Auction Watch: Rolex “Zenith” Daytona in Platinum with Blue Stella Dial at Sotheby’s SJX Watches
Zenith Daytona Jan 22, 2021

Auction Watch: Rolex “Zenith” Daytona in Platinum with Blue Stella Dial at Sotheby’s

Having sold the first publicly-known Daytona “Zenith” in platinum, Sotheby’s is going to offer yet another. Once again a unique example, the Cosmograph Daytona ref. 16516 in platinum – and a blue-lacquer “Stella” dial – will go under the hammer at Sotheby’s Hong Kong watch auction in April 2021. “Sothebys is delighted to present this automatic Zenith Daytona rendered in platinum with a ‘Tiffany blue’ lacquered ‘Stella’ dial in April,” says Sam Hines, Sotheby’s head of watches, who adds, “Manufactured in 1998, this previously unknown watch comes from the same collection as the record-breaking platinum Daytona with hardstone lapis lazuli dial sold by Sotheby’s last year.” The “Tiffany blue” lacquered dial of the platinum Daytona that’ll be sold in April According to Sotheby’s, only five platinum Daytonas with the Zenith El Primero movement were made in the late 1990s, at the request of Rolex’s then chief executive Patrick Heiniger. Each example was unique in having a different dial, but all were equipped wit the same cal. 4030 derived from the Zenith El Primero, which was phased out in favour of the in-house cal. 4130 in 2000. The late Heiniger kept one for himself, and gifted the remainder to key business partners of Rolex. Sotheby’s has since sold two of the five, each achieving a record price for an automatic Daytona. The first was a wedding present to a member of the Gobbi family that owns the eponymous watch retailer in...

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Baltic Introduces the HMS and Bicompax Perpétuel Editions SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Dec 2, 2020

Baltic Introduces the HMS and Bicompax Perpétuel Editions

A newly established specialist retailer in Dubai, Perpétuel is making its debut with the Baltic x Perpétuel HMS and Bicompax, a pair of watches conceived to mark the 49th National Day of the United Arab Emirates, which was formed in 1971, hence the 71-piece edition. Both are variations of the signature timepieces of Baltic, a French brand that got its start on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter and has since made accessibly priced, retro-style watches its specialty. The HMS Initial thoughts Baltic offers a strong value proposition with its vintage-inspired watches featuring stepped bezels and sector dials that are powered by Chinese movements, explaining the affordable pricing. The Perpétuel editions are novel. Although their Eastern Arabic numerals on the dial are common in watches for the Middle East, they are not often found in entry-level watches, especially those with retro designs. Combined with the forest-green dial colour, both models are very much catered to the culture of the Middle East. But they also have substantial appeal for anyone outside the region, thanks to the colour, smart design, and graceful style of the Eastern Arabic script. But the Perpétuel are pricey, being notably more expensive than the standard models. However, they are still affordable in absolute terms, and considering the small, 71-piece run, remain fair value for money. HMS and Bicompax Both the HMS and Bicompax share the same case dimensions of 38 mm by 12 mm. Matched with a domed Hes...

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Patek Philippe Introduces the Twenty-4 “Manchette” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Oct 10, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Twenty-4 “Manchette”

One of the “It” watches of the 2000s was the Patek Philippe Twenty~4, which was launched in 1999 as an elegant yet everyday watch for women in steel with a bracelet and quartz movement, making it affordable and chic. Having unveiled the round Twenty-4 automatic two years now, Patek Philippe has rebooted the original Twenty-4 “Manchette”, once again in steel with new dials in blue and grey. And like the original, it has a steel bracelet, hence the nickname – manchette being French for “cuff”. Initial thoughts While the round, automatic Twenty-4 is larger and perhaps more casual, the original rectangular model is more compact, giving it a slightly more formal style – but the new dial design avoids looking old fashioned. And the rectangular Twenty-4 has been around long enough it is easily recognisable, despite the relatively simple styling, making it the signature Patek Philippe watch for ladies. The central element of the new Twenty-4 is the facelifted dial. Doing away with the diamond indices and Roman numerals of the original, the new dial is cleaner and more modern, while also having luminous hands and hour markers. The upside of a quartz watch is that it more easily accessible than a mechanical watch, in both pricing and functionality, avoiding winding and setting the time. And this particular model does not have a second hand, so its identity is hidden. Priced at about US$14,700, the Twenty-4 is very expensive for a quartz watch with a steel case. An...

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Hermès Introduces the Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Dolce & Sep 4, 2020

Hermès Introduces the Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes

Hermès introduced its first tourbillon, the Arceau Lift, in 2013, an early indication of the leather goods maker’s ambitions in technically-oriented watchmaking. The intertwined, double “H” tourbillon cage was modelled the wrought-iron door of the elevator in the Hermes’ fabled store in Paris at 24, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, hence the name. Seven years later, the Arceau Lift has been upgraded to incorporate a minute repeater. The Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes is being produced in just two examples – each unique – in pink and white gold respectively. Initial thoughts While combining two “high” complications is impressive, the whimsical house style of Hermes is what stands out at first glance. Elements like the asymmetric watch case and open dial are simple quite quickly identifiable as Hermes. More subtle is the dial, which is surprisingly discreet until you spot it. It’s cleverly designed to incorporate the brand’s familiar horse-head motif that takes the form of a cut-out that serves to show off the racks and snail cams of the minute repeating mechanism. The H1924 movement within is high quality in both finish and construction, and also incorporates the equestrian theme with a barrel bridge shaped like twin horse heads. But it is produced by Manufacture Haute Complications (MHC), a respected but struggling Geneva-based movement specialist that has supplied the same calibre to H. Moser & Cie., Dolce & Gabbana, and Artya. So while ...

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Blancpain Introduces the Villeret Ultraplate in Steel SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava Jun 4, 2020

Blancpain Introduces the Villeret Ultraplate in Steel

A staple of Blancpain line-up since the brand was reestablished in the early 1980s, the extra-slim Villeret wristwatch is stripped to the bare essentials but classically-styled, and it’s now available in stainless steel, and also red gold. Understated and thin, the Villeret Ultraplate 6224 is an automatic three-hander with a date display, and just over 8 mm thick, hence the name – ultra plate translates as “ultra flat”. Initial thoughts Reminiscent of classic dress watches like the Patek Philippe Calatrava and the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin, the Villeret Ultraplate is a simple design that’s easy to replicate, which is why similar styles can be found in cheap as well as expensive watches. What differentiates such watches is the quality of execution, particularly in the details. The dial of the Villeret Ultraplate is unadorned, and almost plain, but the Roman numerals are solid gold appliqués affixed to the dial by hand, adding much-needed height and texture to an otherwise flat dial. The slender, open-worked leaf hands also complement the simplicity of the design. Such hands are not overly common, making them appealing. And then there’s the date. While it adds extra utility that is appreciated by some, I am not a fan. The date hampers the purity and symmetry of the dial. With a retail price of a bit over US$8,000 in steel, the Villeret Ultraplate is competitively priced for a dress watch powered by a high-end, automatic movement. Extra-thin The case is ...

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IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph “Blue Angels” SJX Watches
Breitling Nov 20, 2019

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph “Blue Angels”

Having recently coming a licensee of the U.S. Navy Flight Demonstration Squadron, better known as the Blue Angels, IWC is marking the occasion with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Blue Angels”. Already the longtime licensee for the U.S. Navy Fighter Weapons School – hence the Pilot’s Watch Top Gun editions – IWC is the latest watchmaker to sign with the Blue Angels. The team has had several watchmakers become licensees over the years, first Breitling in the 1990s, followed by Citizen. The new Blue Angels chronograph is in blue and yellow, the colours of the Blue Angels’ emblem. The dial is a dark, metallic blue with a yellow track for the hours. The case is in matte black ceramic and measures 44.5mm wide. The Blue Angels logo engraved on the back Inside is the cal. 89361, the brand’s top of the line, in-house chronograph. It’s an automatic movement with IWC’s signature Pellaton winding mechanism. The chronograph has both a flyback function as well as the hour and minute registers co-axial at 12 o’clock. Key facts and price Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Blue Angels” Ref. IW389008 Diameter: 44.5mm Height: 15.7mm Material: Black ceramic Water resistance: 60m Movement: Cal. 89361 Functions: Time, date, and flyback chronograph Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour, or 4Hz Power reserve: 68 hours Strap: Blue calfskin Limited edition: No Availability: From November 2019, at both boutiques and retailers Price: US$...

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Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Cornes de Vache Chronograph in Steel SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Sep 4, 2019

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Cornes de Vache Chronograph in Steel

Originally available in platinum and then rose gold, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 is a well regarded vintage remake, being well executed and faithful to the original. It’s modelled on the ref. 6087 of the 1950s, which was characterised by pointy, horn-shaped lugs, hence the model name; cornes de vache translates as cow horns. Now it is available in stainless steel, making the Cornes de Vache the second Historiques model to be offered in the metal, after the Historiques 1942 and 1948 triple calendars. The steel case naturally makes it far more accessible, with a retail price that’s a third less than the same in platinum. Material aside, the specs of the new model are identical to the earlier precious metal versions. The case is 38.5mm in diameter, and contains the cal. 1142 movement. Now made in-house by Vacheron Constantin, the cal. 1142 is derived from the Lemania 2310. Vacheron Constantin has upgraded the movement in several ways, most notably with a free-sprung balance wheel. The dial is a pale grey with a fine “velvet” finish and red accents on the elapsed seconds track. All of the applied hour markers are 18k white gold, as are the hands. Notably, this is not the first Cornes de Vache in steel. In 2017 Vacheron Constantin produced a small run of 36 watches – with a steel case and dark grey dial – for American watch blog Hodinkee. Key facts and price Diameter: 38.5mm Height: 10.9mm Material: Stainless steel Water resist...

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Ventura Returns with the V-Matic Ego SJX Watches
Nomos Zurich Jun 25, 2019

Ventura Returns with the V-Matic Ego

Watch collectors who were around in the late 1990s and early 2000s would remember Ventura. It specialised in – literally – design watches. All its timepieces were created by noted industrial designers, including Flemming Bo Hansen and more frequently, Hannes Wettstein, who also designed the Nomos Zurich. The house style was sleek, pared back, slightly Scandinavian, but also distinguished by unusual materials – Ventura made liberal use of surfaced hardened titanium (Titanox) and steel (Durinox), a great novelty at the time. The Ventura V-Matic Ego remake But the brand made a pivot into high-end, self-winding electronic watches in the early 2000s, which unsurprisingly ended in Ventura going bust. Now Ventura is being resurrected by its former owner, UK-based watch importer Zeon Ltd (that’s in turn owned by a Hong Kong watch manufacturer), in partnership with Stephan Hürlemann, the designer who took over Wettstein’s studio after his death. I liked very much what Ventura was doing back in the day – the combination of design and materials was unique – but the original watches were surprisingly expensive, particularly by the standards of the time. The new remakes manage to reproduce the original design in a similar alloy, at a notably affordable price. Designer watches for less The revived Ventura sticks to a tried and tested sales formula: direct to the consumer via crowdfunding platform Kickstarter, making the new Ventura watches notably affordable, s...

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VIDEO: A century of Zenith El Primero on offer in the A386 Revival 50th Anniversary gold models from Baselworld 2019 Time+Tide
Zenith El Primero Apr 8, 2019

VIDEO: A century of Zenith El Primero on offer in the A386 Revival 50th Anniversary gold models from Baselworld 2019

A century? Wait, isn’t the Zenith El Primero celebrating its 50th birthday this year? Yes, correct. However, in a surprise move, the brand is offering a 50-year warranty on these A386 Revival 50th Anniversary models in 18ct gold (white, yellow and red, all at the same price). Hence the 100 years - 50 years of goodness … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A century of Zenith El Primero on offer in the A386 Revival 50th Anniversary gold models from Baselworld 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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