Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: Day Windows, Date Windows – And, Yes, Even Year Windows
At the top of the new year, when the calendar resets, it's helpful to have a watch that tells more than the time.
Results for The Swatch Group
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Hodinkee
Deployant
New: Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Minya Konka Limited Edition
Monblanc extends their diving watch collection - the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date inspired by the highest mountain in Sichuan province, China.
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1979 Rolex Day-Date, A 1990s Blancpain Villeret Chronograph, And A 1969 Omega Speedmaster Mark II with 'Racing' Dial
Kick off your 2023 in style with a selection of curated vintage watches from the likes of Rolex, Blancpain, Lange, and more.
SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Fifty Fathoms “70th Anniversary Act 1”
Twenty twenty-three marks the 70th anniversary of Blancpain’s landmark dive watch, the Fifty Fathoms. Introduced in 1953, the diver was revived in 2003. Kicking off the commemorative editions is the Fifty Fathoms “70th Anniversary Act 1”, the first instalment in a year’s worth of anniversary models. Like the current model, the “Act 1” is inspired by the vintage model, but sports dimensions patterned after the original from seven decades ago, with a reduced case diameter of just over 42 mm. Initial thoughts The familiar form of the modern dive watch is due in part to the Fifty Fathoms – whether that or the Rolex Submariner was launched first is an endless debate – so it is unsurprising that Blancpain’s current catalogue includes a vast array of Fifty Fathoms-inspired timepieces. Thankfully, Blancpain has done something to cater to watch enthusiasts with the anniversary model that has a smaller diameter, perhaps in response to criticism that the closest equivalent in the line-up is 45 mm wide (Blancpain does offer dive watches with smaller cases, but they are either limited editions or the Bathyscaphe). Even though the anniversary watch is broadly similar to the standard Fifty Fathoms in terms of design, it has been refined and arguably improved, especially on the dial. Blancpain skipped the easy route of copying the earlier model and scaling it down. Instead the designers commendably captured the spirit of the original with the vintage typography un...
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Announces Prize for Independent Watchmakers
Independent watchmaking has been gaining rapid momentum in the last three years. Young and talented watchmakers have emerged to seek recognition (and sometimes riches) in the mould of Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen, and François-Paul Journe. Now the field is about to get the nod of approval from the luxury-goods establishment, with Louis Vuitton having announced the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. Conceived to promote “horological creativity”, the award begins in 2023 with a broad remit. It is open to anyone in watchmaking and watch design, and even from fields related to horology. Initial thoughts As the world’s largest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton has unsurprisingly been making high-end watches for some time – last year was the 20th anniversary of its first mechanical wristwatch. Following its acquisition of Geneva movement maker La Fabrique du Temps in 2012, the brand’s ambitions have grown, resulting in impressively complicated watches like the Tambour Carpe Diem, a minute repeater with automaton. From that perspective, the Louis Vuitton prize is a natural extension of the brand’s progress as a watchmaker, a way for Louis Vuitton to make known its commitment to high-end watchmaking. The fact that Louis Vuitton is using its considerable resources – the brand’s 2021 revenue was in the region of €15 billion – to support independent watchmakers is a welcome development. The prize money is substantial, reputedly in the low six ...
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Hamilton Khaki Murph: An Attractive But Sizable Watch (Interstellar Watch)
Revolution
Legends of Independent Watchmaking: Felix Baumgartner
Wei speaks one-on-one with Felix Baumgartner, a panelist from our Legends of Independent Watchmaking Horological Symposium at Geneva Watch Days 2022, to look back at the highs and the lows of the last 25 years of URWERK. Felix, a master watchmaker, co-founded URWERK with designer Martin Frei in 1997 and the duo have been upending […]
SJX Watches
Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel
In an unexpected, end-of-year announcement, Audemars Piguet unveiled the Code 11.59 Starwheel, reviving the wandering hours complication that had been absent from its catalogue since 2003. Inspired by a 17th century clock, the wandering hours made its way into wristwatches thanks to Audemars Piguet (AP), which debuted the first wristwatch with the display in 1991. Retaining the familiar three-disc hour display, the new Starwheel is nonetheless an entirely different watch from the compact original. Powered by an in-house movement contained in the Code 11.59 case, the Starwheel has physical presence by virtue of its size, but also a surprising degree of refinement thanks to the excellent finishing of the dial and case. Initial thoughts With a modern look defined by dark colours and instrument-like numerals, the Code 11.59 Starwheel looks pretty much the same as it does in photos – but it is far more appealing than expected. In the metal the watch has an impressive degree of visual detail, particularly the polished bevels on the dial components, and a reassuringly solid feel, all of which give it a great deal of tactile appeal. The refinement in terms of visual detail also translates into the movement, which is in-house both in terms of the base and module. Although it functions identically to the original Star Wheel, the Code 11.59 model has an improved display mechanism. Instead of the periodic rotation found in the original model, the discs rotate continually throughout ...
Time+Tide
Our favourite Micro Mondays from 2022: Part 2
We’ve already counted down our top 5 from our Micro-Mondays series in 2022, but the independent goodness just keeps on coming. Each passing year sees these nimble microbrands continuing to innovate where larger companies can’t, driving trends and keeping prices attainable. If someone is looking to get into the watch hobby without spending a heap of … ContinuedThe post Our favourite Micro Mondays from 2022: Part 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: I Hereby Resolve To Celebrate This 36mm Parmigiani
It's called the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Rose Gold Ruby. And it taught me a thing or two about New Year's resolutions.
Deployant
Wishing all our readers a very happy and prosperous New Year!
We take a break today to celebrate the new year. Happy New Year for a great 2023 from all of us at Deployant. We will be back tomorrow.
Video
What’s Inside a Real ROLEX Watch? | Watchfinder & Co.
Deployant
New: Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series Limited Editions
The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series Limited Editions are a beautiful and high-quality set of timepieces. The attention to detail in the design is evident in every aspect of the watch, from the elegant and sophisticated dial to the sharp, angular case. The limited edition models are available in a 3 hands date or GMT configuration.
Quill & Pad
Top 10 Most Popular Articles Of 2022 On Quill & Pad As Read by You: Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor, Grand Seiko, (Relatively) Affordable Watches, And More!
As read by you, here are the top ten most viewed articles (plus a bonus one) on Quill & Pad this past year. There are a few favorites and a few surprises. Drum roll, please: in no particular order, our top ten most viewed articles of 2022 were . . .
Hodinkee
Watching Movies: In Our First Video Episode, We Break Down Iconic Watches In ‘Speed,’ ‘Goodfellas,’ ‘No Time To Die,’ And More
Our watch-related video of the week celebrates what the WM series is all about.
Revolution
Wei and Ben Küffer From NORQAIN Have a Chat on a Ski Lift
Braving the frigid temperatures of NORQAIN’s first international boutique at Wisma Atria in Singapore, Wei speaks to CEO Ben Küffer about how the young brand got its start and what it means to have authenticity and independence in writing your own history. In the few short years since its founding, the family-owned and family-run company […]
SJX Watches
Best of 2022: Value Propositions
We’ve gone through the year’s best watches from independent watchmakers and establishment brands, as well as the most notable complications. Nearly all of the watches on those lists, however, are pricey. So now we round up the best affordable watches of the year, namely those under US$5,000. Put another way, these are the best value proposition of 2022, both in nominal and relative terms. As has become the norm, Tudor is shoo-in when it comes to value propositions. A streamlined version of its deep-sea dive watch, the Pelagos 39 is compact, lightweight, and minimalist. The case is 39 mm and all titanium, while the dial does away with the date but includes a line of red text in a nod to vintaged dive watches. While much about the watch has been simplified, the details of the Pelagos 39 are fancier than usual. Both the dial and bezel insert are radially brushed – a matte metallic finish for the dial and brushed ceramic for the bezel – giving the Pelagos 39 a more reflective finish than its peers. When it comes to dress watches, the Longines Master Collection “190th Anniversary” is amongst the best, particularly at its US$2,000-ish price. It features a dial that appears to be highly elaborate with Breguet hour numerals that appear to be hand engraved. Naturally the dial is made by machine, but it is done convincingly enough that has a strikingly appealing aesthetic. Thanks to the dial, the watch certainly punches above its price segment. And like many Longin...
Video
Should You Spend Twice as Much on THIS Watch? | Watchfinder & Co.
SJX Watches
Best of 2022: Compelling Complications
Most brands, especially the establishment names, stuck to the evolutionary rather than revolutionary in 2022, which also held true for the latest complications for the year. Nearly all of the year’s most notable complications were derived from past concepts. But the result can still be impressive, as demonstrated by the Ulysse Nardin Freak S. The latest version of a watch that was revolutionary when it was introduced in 2001, the Freak S embodies the ideas that made the original Freak a milestone, including the unorthodox movement construction and the liberal use of intricately-shaped silicon components. But above all it boasts a far more complex regulator that takes the form of twin oscillators connected by a differential. As outlined in our in-depth review, the twin-balance setup was mostly found on classical (and expensive) chronometers from the likes of Greubel Forsey and Philippe Dufour, making the Freak S an outlier with its hyper-modern design. And at US$137,000, it is also more affordable than similar complications from other makers. Standing in stark contrast to the aggressively contemporary styling of the Freak S is the Cartier Masse Mystérieuse. Typical of Cartier with its Roman numerals and ruby cabochon in the crown, the Masse Mystérieuse is inspired by the mystery clocks made by the jeweller in the first half of the 20th century. The result of over eight years of research and development, the Masse Mystérieuse was the final complication devised by C...
Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe Vagabondage I Gold: Farewell To A Path Rarely Traveled
When your F.P Journe isn’t a typical F.P. Journe, but it is a 100 percent real F.P. Journe through and through, it must be a Vagabondage. The Vagabondage I Gold of 2022 is Journe's final foray into the alternate reality of the Vagabondage lifestyle and Joshua Munchow takes a look back at how and why we arrived at this final Vagabondage edition in 2022.
Revolution
Seven Watches That You Can Wear This Christmas and Not Get Robbed
If you have travel plans this holiday season and you are a keen watch enthusiast, then a travel timepiece is probably high up on your list of things to prepare. Unfortunately, in certain parts of the world, it is getting increasingly difficult to feel safe if you choose to rock that heavy hitting watch to […]
Deployant
Christmas Blessings! Glad tidings of peace, joy and love!
We take the day off to celebrate Christmas. Have a Blessed Christmas from all of us here at the Deployant Editorial Team.
Quill & Pad
Jérôme De Witt And Napoleon’s (Jump) Hour Of Triumph: 2015 Academia Mathematical
The De Witt Academia Mathematical of 2015 has a digital time display with jumping hours, tens of minutes, and minutes. And although its full numeral carousels are just barely visible under a smoked sapphire crystal dial, Tim Mosso was willing and able to take a closer look.
Video
Heinrich Taucher 70's Inspired Diver Sellita SW200 Swiss Automatic - Made in Germany Dive Watch
Quill & Pad
A Collector’s View: Is Akrivia Bound For Glory? (Spoiler Alert – Yes!) – Reprise
If you follow the world of independent watchmaking, by now you’ve almost certainly heard of watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi and his Akrivia watches. Since arriving on the scene in 2012 with its first tourbillon-based watch, Akrivia has continued to delight. But is this independent bound for glory? GaryG predicts the future.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Inside Audemars Piguet With Michael Friedman and Ben Clymer
Ben chats with AP's Head of Complications Michael Friedman about early Audemars Piguet, the only RD3 in the world, and the curation of Eric Clapton's legendary collection.
Teddy Baldassarre
Are Bulova Watches Good Buys? Here are 10 Watches that will Convince Y
Founded by Bohemian immigrant Joseph Bulova in 1875, originally with both its corporate headquarters and its manufacturing based in New York City, Bulova Watch Company is one of the most important historical watch brands in the United States. Many an American watch enthusiast has a story about the Bulova watch they inherited from a parent or grandparent, or about how their first watch was a Bulova before building up the financial wherewithal to delve into pricier Swiss luxury brands. Many of these enthusiasts may well be unaware of the many milestones that Bulova has contributed throughout its history - not just to American watchmaking to watchmaking in general - and how those milestones live on today in some of the brand’s most notable timepieces. Here we spotlight 10 important Bulova watches available now and the stories behind them; most are available in our online shop, many below MSRP. A Watch That Helped Win Wars: Bulova Hack Watch During World War II, Bulova took its patriotic duties as one of the few American-based watch companies quite seriously: many of its male employees joined the armed forces while female employees took over much of the watchmaking work at the factory. Bulova also devoted 25 percent of its advertising to the promotion of war bonds and stamps, a service for which it was awarded a distinguished service certificate by the U.S. government. Most notably, in the early 1940s, the company contracted with the United States government to produce i...
Deployant
TGIFridays: Santa delivers! New (to me) Sinar X
Followup to my Dear Santa essay, I hinted at a camera on the wishlist. And Santa has delivered, the Sinar X with Nikkor W 180mm f/5.6 large format camera.
SJX Watches
Best of 2022: Establishment Favourites
Having covered the year’s best from independent watchmaking, we now turn to the big names (but leaving out the value buys below US$5,000 that we cover in a subsequent story). The notable launches from establishment marques were predominantly evolutionary, either new-and-improved versions of existing models or vintage remakes. Nothing was a landmark achievement – except for the monumental Rolex Deepsea Challenge that is less of a watch than a statement of technical prowess. While not strikingly novel, many of the year’s best watches are executed very, very well. One of the best is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin ref. 16202. Practically unchanged from the 1972 original in terms of design, it doesn’t do anything new in terms of design. The the new “Jumbo” nonetheless is a superior watch, mainly thanks to a brand-new movement as well as subtle improvements to the case. As we detailed in our in-depth review, the “Jumbo” retains the look of the original, right down to the colour of the dial, which is reproduced with PVD treatment. But it is the new cal. 7121 that’s the star. Amongst the things, it boasts an efficient, bi-directional winding system, as well as a higher beat rate for the balance wheel, resulting in more stable timekeeping. But perhaps most important is the addition of a quick-set date. While getting this watch at the retail price is a Sisyphean task, it is one of the year’s top watches simply because it makes a classic much better....
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