Deployant
Seamless Integration: Six Watches With Integrated Bracelets
In this week's column, we take a leaf out of the book of designs and focus on watches with beautiful integrated bracelets.
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Deployant
In this week's column, we take a leaf out of the book of designs and focus on watches with beautiful integrated bracelets.
Quill & Pad
Here’s a prediction by Ian Skellern: the relatively nondescript AMC movement Urwerk presented at the 2018 SIHH will not only become one of the horological highlights of the decade, but will take its place among history’s most significant timepieces ever. That’s a bold statement. Here Ian explains why he thinks AMC is so important.
Quill & Pad
In early February, expert spotter Nick Gould noticed that Vanessa Redgrave was wearing a special watch during the filming of the movie 'Blowup': a very rare Rolex Submariner Reference 5513 with so-called Explorer dial. We felt that the topic deserved more discussion, though, so the team turned to the latest form of social media: Clubhouse. You can hear the recorded conversation about that and the general nicknaming of vintage watches here.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: In some kind of cosmic coincidence, Edouard Meylan from H. Moser & Cie just announced that the Cosmic Green Pioneer will be discontinued on the same day that our Dutch broers at Monochrome Watches published an interview with me about my discontinued Pioneer Midnight Blue as part of their Collector’s Series. Weird. “Following @moserwatches strategy … ContinuedThe post Moser to discontinue Pioneer Cosmic Green, while Andrew talks about his Pioneer Midnight Blue on Monochrome appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Your invite to the Open Dial Event: Roger Smith takes you behind the scenes into his workshops and answers your questions.
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Time+Tide
Almost a year to the day since Dave made headlines at the annual Brit Awards for his heartfelt performance of hit single Black, Britain’s hottest rapper has got the watch world excited about his wristwear once again. At the Brits, he was wearing head to toe Louis Vuitton by Virgil Abloh with a rose-gold Audemars … ContinuedThe post UK rapper Dave adds a Patek Phillipe Aquanaut 5168G in “khaki green” to his stellar collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Continuing with a tradition established by its founder Hans Wilsdorf – who famously equipped Mercedes Gleitze with a Rolex Oyster when she became the first Englishwoman to swim the Channel – Tudor has cultivated partnerships with many sportsmen and women, brand ambassadors who prove the durability of its watches. The brand’s latest endeavour took it to Spildra, a remote island off Norway, where it supported the production of a documentary that delves into the lives of orcas and whales. The brainchild of underwater film director Jean-Charles Granjon, The Quest for Nature stars Morgan Bourc’his, a world-champion freediver who’s long been a Tudor ambassador. Mr Bourc’his sporting a Pelagos Despite being in the sea his entire professional life, Mr Bourc’his professes a regrettable lack of experience with large marine mammals. He both yearns to meet them and bemoans their declining reducing populations. The film marks Mr Bourc’his’ first extensive experience with these marine creatures, something he describes as a “human and technical adventure in collaboration with nature and subject to nature’s desires.” An orca – better known as a killer whale but belonging to the dolphin family Searching for giant mammals The team started shooting in January 2019, but the environment turned out to be less than ideal, resulting in little useable footage. Learning that inauspicious start, they made a comeback 10 months later, armed with more personnel and equipme...
Quill & Pad
"The watch industry today would be nothing without women," Elizabeth Doerr notes as the majority of watchmaker benches in watch factories are “manned” by women. Women were also responsible for the very first wristwatches; the world's first doctorate in horology went to a woman (Dr. Rebecca Struthers); and the now-safe lume glowing on your watch came about thanks to the dangerous (and deadly) work of both Marie Curie and the Radium Girls.
SJX Watches
Best known recently for its collaborations with independent watchmakers – the Le Régulateur Vianney Halter sold out in a matter of hours – Louis Erard has been gaining recognition for making the style of high-end watchmaking affordable. Continuing with that focus, the brand has just announced the Excellence Email Grand Feu, a time-only wristwatch with a traditional enamel dial in a striking ivory hue. The grand feu, or fired-in-an-oven, enamel dial is fairly difficult to manufacture, resulting in a rejection rate that’s often over half. As a result, such dials are usually only found in high-end watches. It’s Louis Erard’s first use of a fired enamel dial, but true to form, the brand has retained its usual pricing positioning with a retail price of under 4,000 Swiss francs. Initial thoughts Given the frequent enthusiast gripe that watch prices (or values) border on the absurd, it would seem that true value propositions are hard to come by. There are a few exceptions – Tudor, Longines, and a few independents for instance – with Louis Erard increasingly being one of them. The brand offers an honest product, often with one or two elements historically found only in haute horlogerie, for not so much money. The Excellence Email Grand Feu is exactly that. And the dial is particularly appealing in ivory, instead of the usual bright white that is the favoured colour for fired enamel. Notably, the dial is made by Donzé Cadrans, the well-known enamel dial maker ...
SJX Watches
Having introduced the ultra-advanced quartz Caliber 0100 in 2019, Citizen is now turning to mechanical movements. Making its debut in the flagship The Citizen collection, the Caliber 0200 is a newly-developed automatic with all the technical features expected of a high-end modern movement, along with more elaborate decoration thanks to the input of Swiss movement specialist La Joux-Perret. Citizen’s first new mechanical since 2010, the Caliber 0200 elevates its mechanical watchmaking to a new level in both construction and aesthetics. Similarly, the first wristwatch equipped with the Caliber 0200 boasts a more sophisticated degree of finishing on its complex case and integrated bracelet. The Caliber 0200 Initial thoughts Going by the images, the Calibre 0200-equipped The Citizen is an impressive watch. And going by Citizen’s other high-end watches, this will almost surely look as good in real life as it does in photos. Measuring an elegant 40 mm by 10.9 mm, the case has complex surfaces and impeccable finishing, and also a distinctive look. Though some of the design elements do bring to mind other watches, it is original enough, which is a feat given the proliferation of integrated-bracelet designs today. But the highlight is the movement, which is perhaps best described as a high-end workhorse calibre. The construction and specs tick all the right boxes, and so does the finishing, which is superior to many watches – Swiss and Japanese – in the same price range. Th...
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Time+Tide
As far as ubiquitous movements go, the SW200 and its variants is one to make your eyes light up when you see it on a specification sheet. Originally a clone of the ever-loved ETA 2824, once the patent had expired, Sellita’s version remains just as reliable, affordable and well-performing as its ETA twin. The 4Hz … ContinuedThe post Watches by movement: 5 watches powered with an SW200 from divers to dress appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The week felt a little like going back to school for Ken Gargett – champagne school! Everywhere he went, up popped some of the great champagnes that he has tasted and written about in recent times, plus a few more. Including an ethereal, refined surprise magnum of Henriot Cuve 38.
Revolution
The world’s leading expert on Heuer chronographs talks about how he got started as a watch collector and, in particular, why he became enamoured with vintage Heuers.
Revolution
The evolution Jaquet Droz’s skeletonized watch continues with three new colorful and limited editions, ready for springtime.
WatchAdvice
Pros: Smaller wrist sizes can now enjoy Panerai Adjusting time on the go is super easyThe rubber strap is comfortable on the wrist Cons: Some may appreciate an open case-backNo in-house movement Some may find the pricing to be expensive Overall Rating: 7.8/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8/10 Released back in 2019 during the SIHH convention, the Panerai Luminor Submersible 42 was a breath of fresh air for dive watch enthusiasts and watch lovers who didn’t want to wear oversized watches. Panerai’s flagship diver model is arguably the PAM1389, which measures at a staggering 47mm case size. PAM00683 In 2016, however, the brand decided to release their first small divers watch, the Panerai Submersible 682. This was a very simplistic timepiece with a date and sub-counter on a black dial featuring a stainless steel bezel. More importantly, the watch came in a much more wearable 42mm case size. Fast-forward to 2019, Panerai released two different colourways for the Panerai Submersible 682, one of which is what we have for review today. The PAM00683 features much of the same characteristics that the 2016 Submersible 682 had, with the exception being new bezel colour, and more colour on the dial. PAM00683 Case: The case that the PAM00683, or better known as Luminor Submersible 42 Black Ceramic, comes in is a 42mm stainless steel case with a steel bezel with ceramic black insert. It should be noted that the giant crown gua...
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SJX Watches
Every time you read a story about the ocean, there’s a good chance you’ll see that it is “95% unexplored”, or “we know more about the surface of the moon than of the seafloor”. As most tropes go, they are as annoying as they are true, and in this case they’re also an apt metaphor for vintage watch knowledge. While the details of vintage Patek Philippe and Rolex have been mapped down to their going trains, numerous brands remain relatively uncharted – a Marianas Trench’s of knowledge awaiting exploration. Midcentury Movado chronographs lie squarely at those depths; let’s dive in. As we arrive at the door of our submersible, we must first acknowledge those who have assembled taxonomies of this scantly-explored abyss: the late Fritz van Osterhausen, author of The Movado History, and the excellent M95 chronograph reference the e-newsletter Rescapement published a few years ago. Using their ballast - no, I haven’t run out of nautical metaphors yet - we hope to fathom yet further. Today, we’ll peer into with what many consider the pinnacle of Movado collecting, its exceptionally-cased midcentury chronographs. History Until the 21st century, Swiss watch production was predominantly a cottage industry. Specialists manufactured the case, dial, or ebauche (movement blank), and peddled their wares to as many brands as possible. While final products were modified to brand specifications, family traits are easily discernible across marques that shared sup...
SJX Watches
Yachting’s most prestigious race, the America’s Cup once again has Omega as its official timekeeper, for the first time since 2003. Omega is inaugurating its partnership with a special-edition Seamaster chronograph for the 36th America’s Cup, which will take place off the coast of New Zealand in March 2021. The Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup Chronograph is the second edition made for the 2021 America’s Cup; the first was a Seamaster Planet Ocean. Initial thoughts Omega loves special editions; some are appealing in theme and execution, while others are unimaginative. The new Seamaster chronograph falls squarely in the former category – it’s definitely more exciting than last year’s America’s Cup Planet Ocean, thanks to a few novel technical features. While the America’s Cup edition retains the basic specs of the standard Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph, it incorporates functions catered specifically for yachting, including a regatta countdown on the minute register. Most unusual is the “Chrono Lock”, a slide on the case side that prevents activation of the chronograph. However, at US$10,700 (or 15,050 Singapore dollars), this costs almost 40% more than the standard Seamaster 300M Chronograph. That’s hard to swallow even for the most ardent of yachting fans, and considering the additional features. For the America’s Cup The America’s Cup edition has both its dial and bezel in blue ceramic, while the bezel markings are in white enamel ...
Time+Tide
As the 2021 season of Formula 1 revs up to get started, the drama and speculation around the 10 teams continues to grow with each passing day. With a newly introduced cost cap regulation, the way in which F1 teams spend their fat stacks of cash is under a harsh spotlight. But the way they … ContinuedThe post How Richard Mille’s new partnership with Ferrari is shaking up Formula One sponsorship appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
More than a century of history of Baselworld, the world’s biggest and most comprehensive watch fair, is virtually impossible to sum up in just a few lines. However, that is what Elizabeth Doerr does here as she looks back over 102 years of Baselworld history and reflects on what happens next. Hopefully that is, "Pack your bags for Houruniverse 2021."
Deployant
We thought that it will be a great idea to introduce some vibrancy into the watch collecting scene, this time with six great watches that has a square case.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Get clear insight into the pros and cons of the Timex MK1 Chronograph - is it worth it? Are you missing out? All the info you need is here at TBWS!
Quill & Pad
The Geophysic True Second and Geophysic Universal Time were not just great value watches, they were great watches. Launched in 2015, this rebooted collection has now been discontinued, which for many has made the watches even more enticing.
Deployant
All the Grand Seiko 2021 novelties, summarized here in a handy all-you-need-know handy article. Including our Editorial Commentary on the pieces released.
Revolution
Omega delivers a special edition in tribute to their third term serving as Timekeeper for the 36th America’s Cup in Auckland this March.
SJX Watches
Legendary for being the first man to reach the North Pole solo, Naomi Uemura (1941-1984) was an explorer who notched up several expeditionary feats before disappearing in 1984. Amongst his achievements was a solo, sled-dog run from Greenland to Alaska in 1976 – a two-year, 12,500 km journey – in preparation for climbing Vinson Massif, Antarctica’s highest peak. It was on this trip that Uemura wore a Seiko ref. 6105, the “turtle” diver launched in 1970 that has since become one of Seiko’s best known dive watches thanks to the distinctive case shape. Uemura disappeared in winter 1984 whilst descending the Denali – after successfully reaching the peak – never to be seen again. February 2020 would be his 80th birthday had he lived. To commemorate his life, Seiko has introduced the Prospex The 1970’s Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation modelled on the ref. 6105 worn by Uemura and available in two variants, the limited-edition SLA049 and the regular-production SLA051. The Seiko ref. 6105 of 1970 worn by Uemura during his 1976 solo sled-dog run Initial thoughts Seiko loves limited editions – a trio of Prospex models for its 140th anniversary was just announced – and the limited editions are often facelifts of existing models. To an extent, that remains true. The new SLA049 looks very similar to the SPB183 – nicknamed the “Captain Willard” by enthusiasts after the character who wore on in Apocalypse Now – that was released late last year. Like the...
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