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The Swatch Group

Largest Swiss watch employer (~17,000 staff). 18 brands from Breguet/Blancpain at the top to Swatch at entry. ETA SA + Nivarox-FAR. Hayek family controls.

The Dior Chiffre Rouge Chronograph in High Contrast Red and Black SJX Watches
Zenith El Primero 400 another Feb 27, 2025

The Dior Chiffre Rouge Chronograph in High Contrast Red and Black

The latest iteration of Dior’s asymmetrical wristwatch builds on last year’s all-black release. The new Chiffre Rouge Chronograph retains the signature asymmetrical DLC-coated steel case, but adds a striking red-gradient dial adorned with Dior’s trademark geometric pattern. But this is not merely a “fashion watch”, as inside is the Zenith El Primero 400, another example of the group-level movement strategy at LVMH. Initial thoughts Dior has been producing watches since the 1970s, but struggles to resonate with watch enthusiasts, who often dismiss its offerings as “fashion watches” – a challenge faced by other fashion or leather goods makers. The brand has been making “serious” watches on and off over its history, and last year reintroduced a Chiffre Rouge Chronograph powered by the El Primero. While the stark, edgy design of the watch is not for everyone, it is mechanically credible, albeit steeply priced. At US$17,000, the price is definitely more Dior than Zenith. It’s also substantially pricier than last year’s model with the same movement. The value proposition is difficult to justify. A more advanced movement, like Zenith’s latest generation El Primero 3600, would make this more compelling. Red gradient dial The new Chiffre Rouge mirrors last year’s model, retaining the signature cannage-patterned crown and polished bumpers on the right flank. The chief update is the red gradient dial, which features Dior’s signature geometric motif. Powe...

Grand Seiko: Looking at What Makes the Brand so Special – And Grand Seiko is Definitely Special! Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko Looking Feb 26, 2025

Grand Seiko: Looking at What Makes the Brand so Special – And Grand Seiko is Definitely Special!

The first association for many on hearing the word "Seiko" is likely to be affordable quartz watches or automatic divers. However, Seiko offers much more, particularly in terms of luxury timepieces. Grand Seiko, which became its own brand under the Seiko Group in 2017, produces some of the most competitive luxury watches on the market, rivaling the best Swiss brands at prices that are still (somewhat) attainable.

Introducing – Seconde/Seconde Adds Safety to the Perrelet Turbine Monochrome
Feb 18, 2025

Introducing – Seconde/Seconde Adds Safety to the Perrelet Turbine

Perrelet, a member of the Festina Group (since 2004), which owns movement manufacturer Soprod, traces its roots back to 1777. Today, the brand is best known for its Turbine collection, which was first introduced in 2009. These distinctive timepieces feature an oscillating weight on the back and a series of turbine blades on the front that spin freely with wrist movement, revealing the dial beneath. The dynamic Turbine dials provide a canvas for creativity, and over the years, Perrelet has embraced experimentation with models like the Splash, Hypnotic, Royal Flush, Rainbow, Erotica, and Skull. The brand's latest partnership with seconde/seconde pushes the whimsy even further, bringing the playful "Safety First" concept to life on the dial.

Long-Term Review: One Month With The Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 In Steel Fratello
Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 Dec 26, 2024

Long-Term Review: One Month With The Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 In Steel

One perk of being a writer in this industry is the opportunity to wear some nice and sometimes exquisite watches. They don’t always have to be expensive watches to make an impact. For example, I remember trying the new Swatch What If Break Free collection a few months ago. Despite it being so far from […] Visit Long-Term Review: One Month With The Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 In Steel to read the full article.

Event Report: Celebrating Breitling’s 140th Anniversary At The Brand’s Boutique In The Hague Fratello
Breitling s 140th Anniversary Dec 6, 2024

Event Report: Celebrating Breitling’s 140th Anniversary At The Brand’s Boutique In The Hague

Last week, we organized an evening with Breitling at the brand’s impressive boutique in our hometown of The Hague, Netherlands. We invited a fairly large group of Fratelli to look at the current Breitling collection. But Fred Mandelbaum, our special guest, was also there, and he brought part of his extensive vintage Breitling collection. So […] Visit Event Report: Celebrating Breitling’s 140th Anniversary At The Brand’s Boutique In The Hague to read the full article.

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Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Bel Canto Classic Nov 10, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 93: Tudor Answers our Prayers and the Bel Canto Plays On

We return to the newness on episode 93 of A Week in Watches. There have been a lot of very interesting releases in the last few weeks, ranging from new versions of popular watches to new complications from unexpected sources. The episode begins by looking at the Christopher Ward Bel Canto Classic, a neo-traditional take on the brand’s runaway hit. Following this, we leave Earth to discuss the Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch Mission to Earth Phase. Yes, it’s another MoonSwatch, but this one does something no other watch has done before. Afterward, we discuss the new Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT. The first Pelagos GMT from the ever-popular brand, it brings the FXD back to its military roots. Finally, we talk about some new Seiko Prospex divers that, to be frank, have us altogether confused. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop, where the all new the Timex X Worn & Wound WW75 V3 is now available. Limited to 500 per color and priced at $239, these fun, colorful watches were inspired by the end of summer and a desire to keep it going. Pick one up today at Windup Watch Shop. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 93: Tudor Answers our Prayers and the Bel Canto Plays On appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Industry News – Richemont Reports Stable Sales for the First Semester 2024, Results Down for Watches Monochrome
Nov 8, 2024

Industry News – Richemont Reports Stable Sales for the First Semester 2024, Results Down for Watches

Switzerland-based luxury conglomerate Richemont Group has just issued its trading update for the six months ended 30 September 2024. The Group delivered an overall stable performance with flat sales at constant exchange rates and -1% at actual rates, at EUR 10.1 billion. At EUR 2.2 billion, profit is down 12% at constant rates and down 17% […]

Gearing Up For The Revival Of Universal Genève - Some History And What To Expect Fratello
Breitling announced their acquisition Oct 30, 2024

Gearing Up For The Revival Of Universal Genève - Some History And What To Expect

It has been the better part of a year since Partners Group and CVC Group - the owners of Breitling - announced their acquisition of Universal Genève. Things may have been quiet on the outside, but rest assured plenty was going on behind closed doors. Now we are close to seeing the first fruits of […] Visit Gearing Up For The Revival Of Universal Genève - Some History And What To Expect to read the full article.

The Strangest Seiko Dive Watches in Years Worn & Wound
Seiko Dive Watches Oct 24, 2024

The Strangest Seiko Dive Watches in Years

There was a time not too long ago when the new watches that Seiko debuted this week would have broken the internet. The new SPB481, SPB483 and SPB485 are, plain and simple, some of the strangest releases we’ve seen from Seiko in quite some time. It used to be that even a middling release from the brand, particularly if it was in the sports watch category, would generate days worth of discussion and hype on Instagram, forums, and group chats where watches are discussed. But it’s been about three days since these were made public and not only are they not dominating the enthusiast conversation, they’ve been met with what I can only describe as a collective shrug.  You can see in these images why these watches are noteworthy. What we have here are a trio of Seiko divers in the Prospex collection with octagonal bezels in what appears to be an entirely new case design and a radical new bezel profile. The rounded octagonal bezel is matched to a 41.3mm case that comes in at 12.8mm tall and has lines that accentuate flowing curves at every angle. It feels very different for Seiko and kind of makes you see their core designs in a new way, most of which feature much harsher angles and severe geometry that these watches completely lack.  Three variants make up the new range. The SPB481 has a beige dial matched to a glossy black bezel insert, the SPB483 is a blue on blue design, and then there’s the SPB485, which to my eye is the most striking of the group, featuring a brown...

The Panerai Luminor Venticinque PAM02025 Celebrates Paneristi’s 25 Years SJX Watches
Panerai Luminor Venticinque PAM02025 Celebrates Oct 11, 2024

The Panerai Luminor Venticinque PAM02025 Celebrates Paneristi’s 25 Years

Established in 2000 just as Panerai was started on its ascent to being the hottest brand of the following decade, Paneristi is a community of brand enthusiasts. Panerai is marking the group’s 25th anniversary with the Luminor Venticinque PAM02025, which was just launched at P-Day 2024, an annual global gathering of Panerai fans that just took place in Kuala Lumpur. According to Panerai, the PAM02025 was conceived as a modern take on the Luminor 1950 PAM00127 “Fiddy”. Employing the 44 mm Luminor 1950 case, the PAM02025 has the classic Luminor design, but with modern aesthetic tweaks, including a “brunito” steel case of brushed, aged alloy and a gradient blue “sandwich” dial. Initial thoughts The PAM02025 has many elements that will appeal to Panerai enthusiasts who like its traditional designs, including the pencil hands and “upside down” crown-lock bridge. Panerai certainly took note of the feedback about the prior Paneristi edition that sported a large anniversary emblem on the dial (which is now relegated to the case back). It’s best described as a modernised take on the historical Luminor since the design is old school, but the smoked blue dial and “brunito” steel case mark it out as a watch of today. No doubt some Paneristi will have left out the modern elements and opted for the larger, 47 mm case plus a correspondingly larger movement, but the PAM02025 is a good compromise between new and old – different but doesn’t feel like it’s trying...

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak S “Watches of Switzerland” Crystalium SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Oct 7, 2024

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak S “Watches of Switzerland” Crystalium

One of the largest watch retailers in the world, Watches of Switzerland (WOS) marks its centenary in 2024. It has worked with several brands on limited editions for the occasion, most recently Ulysse Nardin. Based on Ulysse Nardin’s flagship Freak model, the Freak S “Watches of Switzerland Centenary Exclusive” sports a striking purple dial of crystalium, which is actually crystallised ruthenium. Starting as a single shop in 1924, WOS is now a publicly-listed group with several retail brands in its stable and annual revenue of just over US$2 billion. Its scale means that several brands have signed on to create anniversary editions for the company, including including Cartier, Bulgari, and TAG Heuer. The Freak S, however, is the most complicated of the centenary editions so far. Initial thoughts The most impressive Freak in Ulysse Nardin’s current catalogue, the Freak S scores highly in terms of construction, and innovation. Its double inclined balance wheels are a logical evolution of the original concept. In terms of aesthetics, the WOS edition is the most striking to date. The original iteration with its two-tone, rose gold-and-titanium case was perhaps old-fashioned for such a modern watch. The more recent Freak S Nomad, in contrast, presents a refined, artisanal face with a hand guilloche dial – a contrast of sci-fi watchmaking and traditional decoration. The WOS edition is uniformly sci-fi. The carousel sits on a textured, crystalline purple plate. It’s a...

Introducing – The Very Monochromatic and Yet Spectacular Hautlence Sphere Series 2 Monochrome
Hautlence Sphere Series 2 Until Oct 2, 2024

Introducing – The Very Monochromatic and Yet Spectacular Hautlence Sphere Series 2

Until the introduction of the Retrovision ’47 with its distinctive green Bakelite, radio-like case, black and blue had been the favourite colours of the re-launched Hautlence, part of the MELB Luxe Group, which also owns H. Moser & Cie yet remains an independent brand. In 2023, Hautlence presented the Sphere Series 1, featuring its emblematic […]

Fears Introduces the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, with a Module by Christopher Ward Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Back Sep 25, 2024

Fears Introduces the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, with a Module by Christopher Ward

Back in January 2023, Fears and Christopher Ward collaborated on the Alliance 01, the first limited edition watch made specifically for the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers. The watch became an immediate cult sensation, partly due to its unusual jump hour complication, and partly because it was just plain rare, right from the start. The watch was only available to members of the Alliance, a smaller group for sure than the typical audience for either brand. But when a watch like this appears, something with a highly specific complication that also strikes a chord with the community, we know that it’s only a matter of time before a version comes along that’s more widely accessible. Well, that time is now. Today, Fears introduces what they refer to as an evolution of the Alliance 01, the all new Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour.  At its core, this is still very much the watch that we saw back in early 2023. It keeps the 40.5mm Brunswick case, a cushion case design that splits the difference nicely between sporty and something more refined. I happen to own a Brunswick, and find that the case is something of a chameleon – on the right strap it feels like a true dress watch, and on a bracelet, worn casually, it has an almost Datejust-like quality, which is to say it’s right in the middle of that dress/sport spectrum.  But the real heart of the watch is Christopher Ward’s module, also carried over from the Alliance 01, that allows for the jumping hour complication. ...

First Look – The Titanium-Clad Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 3SPC.4 Monochrome
Chopard Sep 24, 2024

First Look – The Titanium-Clad Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 3SPC.4

ART IN TIME was founded in Monaco by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele in 2019, Co-President of Chopard and President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. The gallery was established with the vision of creating a unique platform for watch aficionados, curating a select group of brands representing the pinnacle of independent watchmaking. To celebrate the 5th anniversary of the […]

First Look – Grand Seiko Recreates the Hi-Beat 45GS with the new SLGW004 and SLGW005 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Recreates Sep 2, 2024

First Look – Grand Seiko Recreates the Hi-Beat 45GS with the new SLGW004 and SLGW005

In 2013, to celebrate 100 years of watchmaking for the Seiko group, Grand Seiko released a limited reissue of the iconic 44GS – 700 pieces for the stainless steel version (SBGW047) and 70 pieces each for the white, yellow, and rose gold versions (SBGW043, SBGW044, SBGW046). This reissue perfectly recreated the classic look and underscored […]

Introducing – The New MING 20.01 Series 3 with a Fused Borosilicate Dial and an Agengraphe Movement Monochrome
Ming Aug 20, 2024

Introducing – The New MING 20.01 Series 3 with a Fused Borosilicate Dial and an Agengraphe Movement

Founded in 2017 by a group of enthusiasts led by Ming Thein, the Swiss-Malay watch company MING has evolved from a small horological venture into one of the most intriguing independent watchmakers of our time. In 2021, MING introduced the Special Projects Cave, an initiative to foster customer involvement in creating experimental watches while advancing […]

[Video] Review: the Seiko Prospex SPB451 And SPB453 Divers Worn & Wound
Seiko Prospex SPB451 Aug 16, 2024

[Video] Review: the Seiko Prospex SPB451 And SPB453 Divers

There are a few different ways to approach reviewing the newest dive watches from Seiko. The SPB453, SPB451, and SPB455 were announced earlier this year and were immediately dissected across Instagram, watch forums, and private group chats throughout the watch spectrum. That’s what you’d expect, right? These follow ups to the incredibly popular SPB143 and its many, many siblings represent the core version of the core watch within Seiko’s core collection. At least to enthusiasts, these watches are quintessential, like a white cotton t-shirt, a Bic pen, or even an iPhone. They’re staples, they’re for everyone, but there’s also a deep interest in them as aesthetic objects, tools, collectibles, and everything else that drives our hobby.  Writing about these watches poses a challenge. One tactic is to compare and contrast with the prior version, something Zach Weiss does a great job of in the video linked below. Another option is to attempt to evaluate these new watches as if they exist in a vacuum, without taking into account how they relate to the many versions that came before it. This includes, don’t forget, not only the SPB143 (and, as we’ll always point out, the many derivatives that came out of that release) but also, if you’re so inclined, the entire breadth of the 62MAS family tree. This extends all the way back to 1966 and includes a great many re-issues and re-interpretations. Even massive Seiko fans, I think (I expect), must feel fatigue in consid...

The New Bioceramic MoonSwatch Mission To The Super Blue Moonphase Is Available Starting Today Fratello
Aug 1, 2024

The New Bioceramic MoonSwatch Mission To The Super Blue Moonphase Is Available Starting Today

The news of the MoonSwatch Mission to the Super Blue Moonphase has been out for a couple of weeks. This latest addition to the MoonSwatch lineup is the third of the Mission to the Moonphase models. It will be available until the full blue moon on August 19th. With this short sales window, Swatch is […] Visit The New Bioceramic MoonSwatch Mission To The Super Blue Moonphase Is Available Starting Today to read the full article.

Editorial: the Seiko SRPG17 Land Tortoise, Outliers, and Collection Coherence Worn & Wound
Seiko SRPG17 Land Tortoise Outliers Jul 24, 2024

Editorial: the Seiko SRPG17 Land Tortoise, Outliers, and Collection Coherence

Watch collectors who have been in the hobby for awhile know there’s a certain pleasure in looking in the watch box, or across the flat surfaces in your home where watches are scattered, whatever, and seeing a group of watches that make sense. If you believe a collection is a reflection of your personality and taste, it follows that the watches in the collection will be thematically linked in some way, and just kind of work together. Instead of a watch box that has exactly one watch from each key genre, you see a box of watches that defy easy categorization, but somehow are obviously the product of a core collecting philosophy. I don’t know if I’m quite there yet, but I’m getting closer. But there’s still one watch in my collection that’s a clear outlier, one that will never quite fit. It’s the runt of the litter, the redheaded step-child, and ugly duckling, all wrapped into one. My Seiko SRPG17 “Land Tortoise” just doesn’t belong.  The Land Tortoise, so named because it shares a case shape with the much-loved “Seiko Turtle” divers but is equipped with a compass bezel rather than a typical dive timer, is an outlier even among Seiko sports watches. When we think sporty Seikos, proper dive watches are the ones that inevitably come to mind for most of us, but this is a dive watch in a costume. From the outset, it’s resisting its own nature, rejecting its heritage. It refuses to wear the uniform. I like dive watches and own a few, but they don’t ope...

Unimatic Adds The New Toolwatch Series To Its Permanent Collection Fratello
Unimatic Jul 24, 2024

Unimatic Adds The New Toolwatch Series To Its Permanent Collection

Most of you will know Unimatic as a brand that predominantly releases watches in limited numbers. These small-batch editions are often collaborative efforts that show great diversity. However, in 2021, after many limited editions, the brand unveiled a group of four standard models that are always available. With today’s introduction of the new Toolwatch series, […] Visit Unimatic Adds The New Toolwatch Series To Its Permanent Collection to read the full article.