Deployant
New: Breitling AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition
Breitling reintroduces their Co-Pilot from 1953 with a new edition - the AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition. Press release and commentary details.
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Deployant
Breitling reintroduces their Co-Pilot from 1953 with a new edition - the AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition. Press release and commentary details.
SJX Watches
Like the bizarre-looking, ultra-deep sea creatures that produce bioluminescent light, De Bethune’s DB28GS Grand Bleu boasts its very own, self-contained light source – hardly surprising given what De Bethune is all about. Since its inception in 2002, De Bethune has expanded its aesthetic and technical language, going from relatively classical, Breguet-inspired watches to timepieces that are at the cutting edge of modern horology. Most of its contemporary watches feature far-flung, otherworldly designs, a house style that no doubt made it challenging to ensure the Grand Bleu conforms to the ISO 6425 dive-watch specification. The resulting Grand Bleu is perhaps one of the most extravagant and extraordinary dive watches ever – this video shows the illumination in action. Though De Bethune dabbled in oversized sports watches well over a decade ago, starting with the DB24 Super Sport of 2007, the Grand Bleu is evolved from the more recent DB28GS launched in 2015. While the DB28GS was already a hardcore sports watch with a high-tech movement, the Grand Bleu takes it further -or mor eacccurately, deeper. It combines a brand-new case with a new movement equipped with a mechanical dynamo that powers a set of tiny LED lamps. The more sedate DB28 Grand Sport A new case The Grand Bleu is a large 44 mm, and rated to 100 m. At 12.8 mm high, it is thicker than most De Bethune watches but still slim for a dive watch. But the highlight of the case are the spring-loaded, open-wor...
Time+Tide
We all have those knick-knacks lying around that get forgotten. Dried-up sharpies, matchboxes, and screwdrivers are the common offenders in my household, however there had always been one outlier. A small, unassuming wristwatch had been sitting in an antique drawer for at least 20 years. Freshly into my 20s, I landed a job that meant … ContinuedThe post Restoring my Great-Grandfather’s Omega Seamaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you missed Part I of the Aldis Hodge interview yesterday, you can find it right here. In Part 2, we get to the core of it. What is Aldis Hodge doing in watchmaking? How did he start? And where is the journey going? Lastly, perhaps most importantly, WHEN will see watches with ‘Aldis Hodge’ or some such … ContinuedThe post Long read: A week in Sydney with Aldis Hodge – Hollywood’s only watchmaker Pt 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Coronavirus, fashion watches... the guys have been tackling some big topics lately. This week, they hope to keep things light be revisiting and old-time favorite - guilty pleasure watches.
Video
SJX Watches
Launched last year alongside the time-only Tonneau, the Privé Tonneau Skeleton Dual Time is classical Cartier in style and execution. The case is a century-old Cartier design that has not aged, while the movement is interesting in aesthetics and mechanics. In fact, the 9919 MC inside is surprisingly novel – it’s a skeleton, form, and curved movement with two time zones. The Tonneau Skeleton is also being produced in a modest limited edition, which means it will remain unusual. But it is hindered by a high price tag. Double fuseau The Tonneau Skeleton Dual Time is modelled on the Tonneau double fuseau (French for “double time zone”) that was produced in a variety of versions, including a 1999 Macau handover commemorative edition, from the 1990s until the mid 2000s. A Cartier Collection Privee Cartier Paris (CPCP) Tonneau dual time zone in white gold, c. 1998. Photo – Sotheby’s Cartier was particularly fond of the twin time zone complication during the period, and the double fuseau was also produced in many Tank case styles, ranging from the Tank Cintree to the Tank Louis Cartier. Despite the diversity, all the double time zone watches shared a common feature – they were powered by two separate small movements – either mechanical or quartz, depending on the model – essentially two tiny watches combined into an extra-large case. Though mechanically unsophisticated, the two-in-one construction made each time zone entirely independent, down to the minute....
Hodinkee
Even for those that are 366 days long, the years have been kind to this special perpetual calendar.
Deployant
Citizen revives the Spirit of the Iconic Parawater with the new Kuroshio ’64 series of 5 watches. We go hands-on with the new watch.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Join the TBWS writing team for our very first episode of the TBWS Writers' Room! The crew sit down and have an honest conversation about the very real impact that COVID-19 is having on the watch industry. From large brands to smaller brands, everyone is feeling the impact.
Quill & Pad
The perpetual calendar is often the perfect way for watch manufactures to show off craftsmanship and ability, but how brands do this varies. Here Elizabeth Doerr highlights five very different perpetual calendars introduced in 2019, just in time for the leap year turn on February 29, 2020.
Video
Time+Tide
Clive Cussler, famed novelist and maritime explorer, died on February 24, aged 88. The writer was a larger-than-life character, and his series of novels featuring the renegade adventurer, underwater explorer and treasure hunter Dirk Pitt, such as Raise the Titanic! and Sahara, captivated a generation of avid readers. Cussler’s novels also brought many people’s attention to DOXA … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: An interview with Clive Cussler appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Maurice Lacroix's latest chronograph now comes in a Skeleton form. The AIKON Chronograph Skeleton features a glass dial revealing the skeletonised movement.
Revolution
To mark February 29, Revolution is taking a look at some of the perpetual calendars that mattered in the history of watchmaking.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
What many have been expecting has now been confirmed: BaselWorld 2020 is officially postponed. Read our take on the situation inside.
Hodinkee
Rarity is the name of the game in this edition of our round-up.
Video
In this weeks video, we take a deep dive into one of the most talked-about Rolex models on the market right now, the Rolex Daytona “Ghost”.
Hodinkee
The coronavirus epidemic causes the first postponement in the show’s 102-year history.
Deployant
Baselworld sends out a communique to inform that the 2020 Edition will be postponed to January 2021, effectively canceling this year's show.
SJX Watches
On a fast-moving Friday that started with the first case of the COVID-19 coronavirus in the city of Basel being diagnosed according to Swiss newspaper Le Temps, the day culminated in the organisers of Baselworld 2020 announcing its postponement to January 2021, essentially cancelling this year’s trade fair. This comes a day after the organisers of Geneva watch fair Watches & Wonders announced it was cancelled, which wipes out the entire year’s calendar for the major watch industry events. Though the Baselworld organisers had initially planned to meet on Monday, March 2, according to an announcement by Hubert J. du Plessix, the president of the event’s exhibitors committee (and also the director of investments and logistics at Rolex), events got ahead of them. The primary catalyst Baselworld’s cancellation was the Swiss government declaring a ban on all gatherings of over 1,000 people, until at least March 15 – which instantly made the Geneva Motor Show, one of the automotive industry’s most important events, a non-starter. Now Baselworld 2021 will take place from January 28 to February 2, with press day happening on January 27. Baselworld managing director Michel Loris-Melikoff, commenting in the announcement of the event’s cancellation, stated “We have found a solution that enables the industry and all our customers to avoid losing a full year and at the same time reset their calendars for the beginning of the year, a period that is conductive to the...
Deployant
Followup to the cancellation of Watches & Wonders 2020, we wrote to and reveived communication from Baselworld. Here is what they say.
Quill & Pad
The news broke like a hurricane on the morning of February 27, 2020: Watches & Wonders (formerly SIHH) has been canceled for 2020. In the words of Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe, “The future of the fairs is already in the balance – to cancel them is really bad news for them, and for Baselworld in particular." Read on for more of his opinion.
Video
At the time of recording, the exchange rate was 1 GBP = 1.33 USD. Please note that exchange rates fluctuate, so the conversion may differ when you view this video. Always check current exchange rates for the most accu...
Time+Tide
When I started Time+Tide, back in 2014, I was interested in microbrands. This afternoon, six years later, we will have our first ‘Indie Explorer’ event at Time+Tide. Better late than never. In the Casual Friday ethos, it will be a very chill kind of deal. Watches. A beer or two. And almost certainly good people. … ContinuedThe post Casual Friday: Why we’re having our first ‘Indie Explorer’ event and what it’s all about appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
RJ Watches, better known as Romain Jerome, has just gone bankrupt. Announced almost exactly a month after De Grisogono met the same fate, the bankruptcy of RJ Watches SA is the consequence of its majority shareholder, a company controlled by a member of the Saudi royal family, deciding to “stop investing in the company”. Though RJ was never a major watchmaker – its peak revenue was around 20 million Swiss francs – the brand was often in the headlines thanks to its shrewd and occasionally ridiculous marketing. Founded in 2004 and named after the two sons of its founder, Alain Bajulaz, RJ started out making mechanical golf-counter watches, but swiftly took a drastic new direction after Yvan Arpa was appointed chief executive in 2006. By then owned by the Saudi investor, RJ enjoyed a brief period of turbocharged, and in hindsight unsustainable, growth under Mr Arpa. A former Hublot manager, Mr Arpa was a fervent marketer of the most preposterous ideas that were somehow weirdly compelling. Amongst his creations were the rusty-looking Titanic DNA watches and timepieces sprinkled with actual Moon dust. Perhaps the masterpiece was a rusty-Titanic double tourbillon that had no hands and did not tell the time. The 2008 collaboration between Romain Jerome and Cabestan producing the Titanic DNA tourbillon – and now both brands are no more The case has a stabilised and protected rusty-look finish Mr Arpa and the company parted ways in 2009 amidst a lawsuit, and he went o...
SJX Watches
Last year was the 25th anniversary of A. Lange & Söhne’s modern-day revival in 1994, also the debut year of the iconic Lange 1. For the occasion, ten limited edition Lange 1 models were unveiled over the course of the year. The line-up ranged from the basic to the ultra complicated, but one of the standouts was a model in the middle of the spectrum – the Grand Lange 1 Moonphase “25th Anniversary”. Introduced in 2003, the Grand Lange 1 was essentially an upsized Lange 1, with a larger but slightly thinner case – and the same L901.0 movement found in the standard Lange 1. The result was an awkward, cramped dial with overlapping displays that abandoned the orderly asymmetry of the classic Lange 1 dial. Nine years later, the Grand Lange 1 movement was redesigned to create the cal. L095.1, which accommodated all of the indications on a dial with the correct proportions. A moon phase was added to the movement the following year, which increased its thickness slightly. The 25th anniversary edition is a second generation Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase with a subtle, beautiful twist – and one of the most appealing models from the anniversary line-up. Anniversary livery Though large, the watch is notably flat, giving it an elegant profile on the wrist. With a height of 9.4 mm, the white gold case is still thinner than that of the basic Lange 1, despite having the additional moon phase complication. The tripartite case construction has a brushed middle between the polish...
Deployant
We take a deep dive with the Angelus Diver Tourbillon U51 - an saturation dive watch with a tourbillon. Analytical review with live photographs and details.
Time+Tide
Watches & Wonders Geneva (formerly SIHH) has been cancelled in an announcement by the FHH overnight, as a result of the growing concerns around the Coronavirus and its spread throughout the world. This comes off the back of both Citizen and Bulova announcing their withdrawal from Baselworld just days ago, and adds Watches & Wonders … ContinuedThe post Coronavirus cancels Watches & Wonders 2020, is Baselworld next? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Here, we’re unboxing Chopard’s L.U.C Quattro, which, when bought pre-owned, costs around £13,250. And you get quite a lot for the money. Not only is the 43mm case crafted from platinum and the grey dial multi-lay...
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