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The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

How Nicolas Hayek\'s ASUAG/SSIH merger (1983) and Swatch brand launch (March 1983) rescued Swiss watchmaking from the quartz crisis.
Wiki · Guide
The Swatch Group

Largest Swiss watch employer (~17,000 staff). 18 brands from Breguet/Blancpain at the top to Swatch at entry. ETA SA + Nivarox-FAR. Hayek family controls.
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The Royal Pop Riots Are Over: Here's What Swatch Quietly Did Next

Mid-May the Swatch x AP launch turned into chairs flying in Milan, pepper spray in New York, and a Utrecht shop owner finding poop on his doorstep. A month later you barely hear about it. Here's how Swatch killed the chaos without ever announcing it.
Introducing: The Bulova Snorkel Collection With Hybrid Ceramic Cases And Tropical Colors Fratello
Citizen Group Jan 14, 2025

Introducing: The Bulova Snorkel Collection With Hybrid Ceramic Cases And Tropical Colors

After Swatch’s Speedmaster MoonSwatch and Scuba Fifty Fathoms collections, we were waiting for the next Swatch Group classic to undergo a Bioceramic metamorphosis. But now it looks like Citizen Group is entering the competition with its new Bulova Snorkel collection. The inspiration for these Hybrid Ceramic watches comes from the brand’s iconic Oceanographer Snorkel, nicknamed […] Visit Introducing: The Bulova Snorkel Collection With Hybrid Ceramic Cases And Tropical Colors to read the full article.

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Longines’ High-Frequency Chronometer Gets a Carbon Composite Case SJX Watches
Longines High-Frequency Chronometer Gets Jan 3, 2025

Longines’ High-Frequency Chronometer Gets a Carbon Composite Case

Arguably under appreciated, the original Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver was a precision timekeeper with a high-frequency movement, the L.836.6. With the high-spec movement, the watch was appealing, albeit pricey by Longines’ standards. Now the brand has given the model an upgrade with the Ultra-Chron Carbon. The Ultra-Chron Carbon retains the familiar cushion-shaped case, but now in carbon composite, giving it lightness and a modern aesthetic that contrasts well with the retro, 1970s origins of the design. Initial thoughts The Ultra-Chron Carbon stands out for its blend of an advanced, industrial movement, composite materials technology (undoubtedly thanks to the Swatch Group’s vast industrial base), and a vintage-inspired aesthetic. Although it’s simply a modest variation of an existing model, the new Ultra-Chron marks the brand’s first venture into non-traditional case materials in the modern day. Priced at US$4,900, the Ultra-Chron Carbon commands a notably higher price than its stainless steel counterpart. While it does offer technical advantages - such as the carbon composite case and a high-frequency (5 Hz) movement - the watch still feels a little expensive relative to alternatives, especially since Longines is primarily a brand that competes in a lower price range. More broadly, the Ultra-Chron Carbon is not a like-for-like vintage remake, which is a good thing. But Longines can arguably do more with its movements. Given that the brand’s enthusiast-orien...

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Long-Term Review: One Month With The Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 In Steel Fratello
Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 Dec 26, 2024

Long-Term Review: One Month With The Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 In Steel

One perk of being a writer in this industry is the opportunity to wear some nice and sometimes exquisite watches. They don’t always have to be expensive watches to make an impact. For example, I remember trying the new Swatch What If Break Free collection a few months ago. Despite it being so far from […] Visit Long-Term Review: One Month With The Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 In Steel to read the full article.

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12 Technical Achievements in Watchmaking from 2024 Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 25, 2024

12 Technical Achievements in Watchmaking from 2024

The word I keep reading to describe the watch industry in 2024 is “conservative.” There is certainly a case to be made for that view (and my colleague Bilal Khan does so quite eloquently in yesterday’s article), but there is also, I feel, ample evidence of the industry’s ongoing (and, to my mind, essential) devotion to doing new things on the technical side. In this day and age, with the watch business so diversified, so international, and so independent of one another in their schedule of releasing new products (the Spring windfall that is Watches & Wonders Geneva notwithstanding), it can be easy to overlook these innovations when you’re trying to tie up the watchmaking year in a neat bow. Of course, every watch brand has its own approach. Sometimes it’s about setting records (Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget); sometimes it's about elevating a brand’s repertoire to the next tier of complexity (Breitling, TAG Heuer); often, it’s just about taking a fresh approach, or adding a clever twist, to existing complications (Nomos, Swatch). For those who may have missed them or even forgotten about them, here are the technical innovations in the horological world — major and minor — that I found worthy of attention in 2024. Ball Model M Roadmaster A With the Roadmaster M Model A, Ball Watch introduces a mechanical alarm function to its predominantly rugged, tool-oriented lineup for the first time. But it’s not just any mechanical alarm function but an “Alarm-Matic...

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Explained: The Rolex Parachrom Hairspring SJX Watches
Patek Philippe turning Dec 20, 2024

Explained: The Rolex Parachrom Hairspring

Over the last decade, metal alloy hairsprings seem to fallen out of favour across watchmaking, with even conservative, haute horlogerie brands like Breguet and Patek Philippe turning to silicon balance springs. Not to mention large-scale makers of sporty watches like Omega and Tudor, which already transitioned to silicon balance springs. Rolex, however, stands out. The Geneva marque continues to employ a hairspring fabricated of its proprietary blue alloy – the Parachrom hairspring. The Parachrom hairspring inside the cal. 4131 of the Cosmograph Daytona The advantages of alloy The use of blue Parachrom is rooted in the simple fact that the right metal alloy boasts performance that is at least on par with its silicon counterpart – while offering some distinct advantages missing in silicon. Alloy hairsprings are traditionally made of Nivarox (and its family of related alloys), a special alloy that neither oxidises nor change its dimensions with variations in temperature. Invented in 1933 and almost a century old, Nivarox is a mix of nickel and iron, making it a ferromagnetic alloy, thus susceptible to influence from magnetic fields.  The cal. 3255 of the Day-Date 40 is equipped with a Parachrom hairspring. Image – Rolex In order to make its hairsprings more resistant to magnetism and to bypass the Swatch-imposed monopoly on Nivarox hairsprings (Nivarox-FAR being one of the key companies of Swatch Group), Rolex set out to develop its own hairspring alloy in the early 2...

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Christopher Ward Bel Canto Classic Nov 10, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 93: Tudor Answers our Prayers and the Bel Canto Plays On

We return to the newness on episode 93 of A Week in Watches. There have been a lot of very interesting releases in the last few weeks, ranging from new versions of popular watches to new complications from unexpected sources. The episode begins by looking at the Christopher Ward Bel Canto Classic, a neo-traditional take on the brand’s runaway hit. Following this, we leave Earth to discuss the Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch Mission to Earth Phase. Yes, it’s another MoonSwatch, but this one does something no other watch has done before. Afterward, we discuss the new Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT. The first Pelagos GMT from the ever-popular brand, it brings the FXD back to its military roots. Finally, we talk about some new Seiko Prospex divers that, to be frank, have us altogether confused. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop, where the all new the Timex X Worn & Wound WW75 V3 is now available. Limited to 500 per color and priced at $239, these fun, colorful watches were inspired by the end of summer and a desire to keep it going. Pick one up today at Windup Watch Shop. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 93: Tudor Answers our Prayers and the Bel Canto Plays On appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Introducing – The Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Moon Phase in Rose Gold Monochrome
Union Glashütte Oct 23, 2024

Introducing – The Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Moon Phase in Rose Gold

In 1893, Johannes Dürrstein, a distributor for A. Lange & Söhne, founded his own watchmaking business, which eventually evolved into what we now know as Union Glashütte. Today, the Swatch Group-owned brand is famous for keeping the traditions and aesthetics of Saxon watchmaking, offering a range of competitively priced models across seven collections. The 1893 […]

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First Look – The Rose Gold & Steel Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase Monochrome
Union Glashütte Oct 21, 2024

First Look – The Rose Gold & Steel Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase

German entrepreneur Johannes Dürrstein opened a manufacture in Glashütte in 1893 to produce quality Glashütte watches at significantly lower prices than other manufacturers in town. Closed in 1933 and acquired by Swatch Group in 2000, Union Glashütte is proud of its Saxon watchmaking heritage and sticks to the founder’s policy of competitive prices. One of […]

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First Look – The Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba 40mm, now with a Cool Red Bezel Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba 40mm Oct 15, 2024

First Look – The Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba 40mm, now with a Cool Red Bezel

While widely known for its countless apparitions on the silver screen and its military-inspired watches, Hamilton, once an American brand now under the umbrella of the Swatch Group, also carries a rather serious range of aquatic-oriented watches. Sitting alongside the high-performance Frogman and BeLOWZERO collections is the Khaki Navy Scuba, a classic dive watch with […]

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Business News: Gregory Kissling Appointed CEO of Breguet SJX Watches
Breguet Breguet has Oct 6, 2024

Business News: Gregory Kissling Appointed CEO of Breguet

Breguet has a new boss, Gregory Kissling, who started as chief executive at the beginning of October. Born in Neuchâtel – just like Abraham-Louis Breguet himself – Mr Kissling takes over one of the most storied brands in watchmaking. Although Breguet has ceded ground to its haute horlogerie competitors in recent years, the brand remains exceptional in terms of history and significance. Mr Kissling will no doubt seek to restore some of the brand’s glory. Appealing products will be key to that, and Mr Kissling has a strong track record. A micro-mechanical engineer by training, Mr Kissling began his career as a movement constructor at Cartier. He soon joined Omega as product manager in 2004, where he steadily rose through the ranks in product development. Two years ago Mr Kissling was named vice president of product at Omega, making him one of the most senior leaders of the company. Gregory Kissling outside the Breguet manufacture in Le Chenit Mr Kissling’s time in product development has seen Omega unveil watches that were well received by enthusiasts, particularly vintage-inspired Speedmaster models. Amongst the projects he was responsible for was the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321. He also worked on wider projects that spanned Swatch Group, including the development of proprietary precious metal alloys like Sedna and Moonshine gold. As the chief executive of Breguet, Mr Kissling reports to president Marc Hayek, who oversees the high-end brands owned by Swatch Group, na...

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First Look – Certina Adds a Chronograph to its Integrated Sporty DS-7 Collection Monochrome
Certina Adds Sep 27, 2024

First Look – Certina Adds a Chronograph to its Integrated Sporty DS-7 Collection

Last year, Certina ventured into the popular 1970s-inspired integrated-bracelet sports watch category. In this space, fellow Swatch Group brand Tissot has made waves with its highly successful and accessible PRX series. While the 2023 Certina DS-7 Powermatic 80 models offer a simple time-and-date functionality, they bring a more contemporary, slimmer, and less angular design, setting […]

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Hands-On: the Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Worn & Wound
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Sep 19, 2024

Hands-On: the Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium

Longines, somehow, still feels slept on to me. In the hierarchy or Swatch Group brands, they sit in a place where they really should be insanely popular with enthusiasts and the mass market alike, but somehow they often feel like a brand struggling to break into the wider conversation. To be fair, I have no idea about the relative commercial success Longines has experienced over these last few years – it’s quite possible that everyone at Longines and Swatch are quite happy with their performance. Anecdotally, though, I just don’t see them on wrists very often, either at local neighborhood watch meetups, or in the wild. And that’s kind of a shame, because whenever I actually spend time with a Longines watch, I come away feeling impressed. I’ve long held that they do vintage reissues better than just about anyone. Whoever has the job of raiding the archives and picking watches to resurface from the brand’s long history has impeccable taste, and an innate understanding of the watches that hit the center of the Venn Diagram covering “aesthetically interesting” and “historically important.” They’ve done a great job of telling the brand’s story with a string of excellent heritage releases.  But Longines is too big, of course, to just release vintage inspired watches, so in a moment a few years back when it was clear that the heritage gravy train wasn’t going to run forever, they introduced the Spirit collection. An entirely new line, the Spirit watches...

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Rado Over-Pole Review Two Broke Watch Snobs
Rado Over-Pole Review Sep 16, 2024

Rado Over-Pole Review

In 2022, Rado re-released the Over-Pole as a limited edition of 1,965 pieces. The diameter remains as svelte as the original at 37mm. The height of the case is 10.4mm, and the lug-to-lug is 43mm. The lug width is 19mm, and it has a water resistance rating of 100m, though it does not have a screw-down crown. The case is fully polished. Interestingly, Rado chose to use a manually-wound movement for this reissue, rather than the automatic movement an original Over-Pole would have used. The movement is known as the Rado R862, and is modified from a Powermatic 80 found in other Swatch group watches. It has 80 hours of power reserve, and the Nivachron hairspring to increase its anti-magnetic properties. The movement is well finished, and can be seen through the watch’s transparent caseback.

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: The New York City Subway Turns 120, Peak Design Gets Outdoors, and the MoonSwatch is Finally Available Online Worn & Wound
Blancpain Sep 7, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The New York City Subway Turns 120, Peak Design Gets Outdoors, and the MoonSwatch is Finally Available Online

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. The MoonSwatch is Finally Available Online  In what is probably the biggest bit of MoonSwatch news since the viral Bioceramic sensation was first unveiled a few years ago, Swatch has finally made some of the popular and colorful watches available through their online store. This was a move that was (kinda) promised by Swatch early on, then essentially forgotten about amid a never ending stream of new variants featuring cartoon dogs, moonphase complications, and even a wholly new collaboration with Blancpain. Still, MoonSwatch availability online will please many who simply don’t have access to a Swatch store or care to purchase on the secondary market. To start, only four variants will be available through the Swatch website: Mission on Earth, Mission to the Moon, Mission to the Sun, and Mission to Mars, and they’ll only be available for customers in the United States and China. At the time of this writing, all four are in stock and ready to ship, so if you’ve been after a MoonSwatch with no lines and minimal waiting, now’s your chance. Peak Design Gets Outdoors  It’s no ...

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H. Moser & Cie. Collaborates with Studio Underd0g on a Fruity Pair SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Collaborates Sep 6, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Collaborates with Studio Underd0g on a Fruity Pair

H. Moser & Cie. has often injected humour into its watchmaking and does so with its latest collaboration, a pair of watches conceived with micro-brand Studio Underd0g. Presented a box set of two watches, the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavor Calendar Passion Fruit and Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit are designed around the same theme, namely passionfruit. Each watch, however, reflects the respective brand’s signature characteristics and price point. The Moser is a perpetual calendar with an in-house movement and fired enamel dial, while the Studio Underd0g is a Sellita-powered chronograph. Initial thoughts The collaborations in horology are sometimes uninspiring and dull. While MoonSwatch may be a commercial hit, or was a hit, it is precisely what one would expect from Swatch and Omega. However, the fruity duo from Moser and Studio Underd0g manage to be different, while retaining the brands’ respective identities. This is also one of the instances where a box set isn’t made up of repetitive or redundant watches. Though similar in colour, the two watches are substantially different, particularly in tactile feel. The owner can choose to wear either for different occasions or even gift one (probably the chronograph). Priced at CHF59,000 for the pair, the passionfruit editions are good value considering what would sell for individually. The Studio Underd0g would probably cost about CHF3,000, with the Moser accounting for the rest of the price, which is comparable to the re...

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The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer Gets the All-Black Treatment SJX Watches
Longines Mido’s latest Aug 20, 2024

The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer Gets the All-Black Treatment

Mido once again turns to its popular vintage remake with the all-black Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961. The latest in a considerable number of iterations of the model, the new Ocean Star stays faithful to the original in outline and features a trademark multicoloured decompression table on the dial. One of the smaller and less prominent brands in the Swatch Group stable that includes Omega and Longines, Mido’s latest is a limited edition of 1,961 pieces to celebrate the 80th anniversary of the Ocean Star model. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common enough they have become cliché, especially in this price segment. The Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 has arguably been iterated too often, each time in slightly different colourway, so the new version isn’t all that novel. That said, it is affordably priced – retail is US$1,480 – and boasts an original design thanks to the decompression scale on the dial. Additionally, this version with its black-PVD coated finish stands out against earlier variants with stealthy aesthetic that creates more contrast with the colourful dial. At the same time, the ETA calibre inside has higher specs than most movements in this price segment, a result of Mido’s parent also owning ETA. Stealthy thetics The stainless steel case measures 40.5 mm in diameter and 13.4 mm high, which give it the proportions of a modern watch despite the retro styling. The crystal is domed “glass box” style to mimic the PlexiGlas of the vint...

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The New Bioceramic MoonSwatch Mission To The Super Blue Moonphase Is Available Starting Today Fratello
Aug 1, 2024

The New Bioceramic MoonSwatch Mission To The Super Blue Moonphase Is Available Starting Today

The news of the MoonSwatch Mission to the Super Blue Moonphase has been out for a couple of weeks. This latest addition to the MoonSwatch lineup is the third of the Mission to the Moonphase models. It will be available until the full blue moon on August 19th. With this short sales window, Swatch is […] Visit The New Bioceramic MoonSwatch Mission To The Super Blue Moonphase Is Available Starting Today to read the full article.

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First Look – The Union Glashütte Noramis Chronograph Sachsen Classic 2024 Monochrome
Glashütte Original Union Glashütte represents Jul 15, 2024

First Look – The Union Glashütte Noramis Chronograph Sachsen Classic 2024

Together with sister-brand Glashütte Original, Union Glashütte represents the German side of the Swatch Group. Positioned as an attainable luxury watchmaker, delivering excellent quality for the price, Union is steadily growing and continues to bring fresh, appealing new models to the market. The latest in line is a handsome chronograph with vintage vibe and linked […]

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First Look – The Accessible Yet Powerful Certina DS Super PH1000M STC Edition Monochrome
Certina DS Super PH1000M STC Jul 1, 2024

First Look – The Accessible Yet Powerful Certina DS Super PH1000M STC Edition

In recent years, Swatch Group-owned brand Certina has demonstrated its capability of creating powerful, capable and nicely designed dive watches at fair prices. Take the example of the DS Super PH500M, the DS PH200M, or the DS Action Diver to understand my point. Last year, the brand pushed things even further with a watch drawing inspiration from […]

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Christopher Ward Citizen Fortis G-SHOCK Oris Jun 23, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 83 – Oh No, More MoonSwatches!

On episode 83 of A Week in Watches, we take a look at three new relatively affordable releases. First is a new powerhouse of a chronograph from Farer with unique functionality. Next is a new addition to Seiko’s Craftsmanship line, featuring a dial of beautiful Arita porcelain. Last, the Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch returns again with some vibrant colors. This week’s episode is brought to you by Windup Watch Fair Chicago, which is preparing to kick off on July 12th. Eindup Chicago is heading into its third year and will feature over 40 brands, including Christopher Ward, Citizen, Fortis, G-SHOCK, Oris, and many more. Located at Venue West in West Town, it’s sure to be another exciting year. Learn more at Windupwatchfair.com The post A Week in Watches Ep. 83 – Oh No, More MoonSwatches! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Hands-On With The New MoonSwatch Mission On Earth Models (Live Pictures) Fratello
Jun 15, 2024

Hands-On With The New MoonSwatch Mission On Earth Models (Live Pictures)

What a surprise! After the two Mission to Moonphase “Snoopy” releases earlier this year, I did not expect to see an additional set of MoonSwatch models. Only the teasers on Swatch’s Instagram account a few days before June 11th gave away the idea that we could expect something new. The MoonSwatch success The first 11 […] Visit Hands-On With The New MoonSwatch Mission On Earth Models (Live Pictures) to read the full article.

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