Deployant
New: Raymond Weil Millesime The Fifty
Celebrating fifty years as an independent, Raymond Weil, releases a limited series of fifty watches. Introducing the Millesime The Fifty.
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Deployant
Celebrating fifty years as an independent, Raymond Weil, releases a limited series of fifty watches. Introducing the Millesime The Fifty.
Monochrome
The UR-101 is the watch that started it all for indie brand Urwerk. First introduced in 1997 alongside the UR-102, it laid the groundwork for the brand’s signature wandering hours display and its radical approach to time indication. After recently bringing the UR-101 back into the collection with a bold, textured T-Rex edition, Urwerk moves […]
Time+Tide
When a brand that carries as much prestige in the collecting community as Universal Geneve comes back, there will be some questions.The post The how and why of Universal Genève’s revival, or the ramblings of a UG romantic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The new Polerouter is offered in two sizes, with a new microrotor movement and a distinctly modern sensibility.
Hodinkee
Five new models to celebrate the return of an original 1930s classic.
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Time+Tide
As part of the brand's relaunch, we have the resurrection of one of its most iconic models, flanked by a few fun iterations. The post Nina is back in spirit with the revived Universal Genève Compax collection, complete with a micro-rotor movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Finally, after two years of teasing, Universal Genève is back. Yes, the brand is back in a tangible way with four collections and a soon-to-open flagship store in the heart of Geneva, its city of origin. From the 1940s through the 1960s, Universal Genève stood among the most respected names in high-end Swiss watchmaking. The […] Visit Universal Genève Is Back! Introducing Four Collections, With The Famous Polerouter Leading The Way to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The Polerouter is finally back and with a bang of 11 references across the newly launched range, with plenty of variety to discover. The post The Universal Genève Polerouter relaunches in force, with no less than 11 new models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Delbana, founded in 1931 by Goliardo Della Balda, has always delivered classical Swiss watchmaking at approachable prices. The brand launched the stainless steel Della Balda in 2021, later followed by a PVD yellow gold version in 2022, as a tribute to Goliardo and also returned to using mechanical movements. For its 95th anniversary, the brand […]
Fratello
Over the past year, I have had the pleasure of reviewing three watches from Makina. The young Filipino brand has quickly demonstrated a wide range of offerings. What ties the different models together is their combination of industrial, almost futuristic design that still features a good injection of classic watchmaking elegance. With the new Makina […] Visit Going Back To The Beginning With The Makina Uriel_VII to read the full article.
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Monochrome
Over the past few years, Qian GuoBiao, an independent watchmaker working in Dongguan, China, known as “the tourbillon doctor“, has established a quite disciplined design language, shaped by his background in the restoration and application of traditional hand-finishing. His earlier watches focused on clarity, proportion and the display of mechanics, incorporating visible balances without resorting […]
Time+Tide
Gerald Charles releases a continuation of its tennis-focused watch with the Maestro GC Sport Tennis White.The post Gerald Charles is ready for the grand slam with Maestro GC Sport Tennis White appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Angelus is a historical Swiss watch brand founded in 1891 in Le Locle by Albert and Gustav Stolz, known for technically ambitious and award-winning chronographs, multi-complication watches and even chiming models. After a long period of dormancy following the quartz crisis, the brand was revived in 2011. Tapping into its rich archive, Angelus has gathered […]
Fratello
Watches and Wonders 2026 kicks off next week, and this year marks Sinn’s first appearance at the fair. Likely to stir up excitement for this debut, the brand introduces four models ahead of the show. The lineup includes two versions of the 544, the limited 936 S chronograph, and the more unconventional 308 Hunting Watch. […] Visit Sinn Introduces Four New Models Ahead Of Watches And Wonders: The 544, 544 RS, 308, And 936 S to read the full article.
Monochrome
Square chronographs are rare, and inevitably, any watch in this category gets compared with the iconic TAG Heuer Monaco. Since its debut in 2008, the Averin Chronograph by Union Glashütte has occupied similar territory, combining a bold, geometric case with a sporty chronograph display. Earlier versions looked to form their own identity and relied on […]
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SJX Watches
Since “Jacob and Jeweller” made its first foray into fine watchmaking two decades ago, Jacob & Co. has positioned itself as a master of maximalism in all its forms, both bejewelled and technical, with some of the brands’s most audacious creations free of gem-setting entirely. The story of Jacob & Co.’s rise as an independent watchmaker features a celebrated cast of constructors. While other brands focused on vertical integration, Jacob & Co. opted to become a patron of promising complication specialists and independent watchmakers, funding their visions while challenging them with its own. Now, 20 years on, Jacob & Co. has evolved into a major player in the ultra-high end watchmaking segment, and is one of the fastest growing brands in an otherwise downbeat market; according to the brand, its 2025 watch sales were close to CHF300 million at retail. The brand’s obvious success is due to both its astute commercial instincts, founder Jacob Arabo’s inimitable personality, and also its ability to bring technically demanding movements to market and iterate on them with remarkable regularity. The gongs of a minute repeating Astronomia, one of the line’s many flankers. Few brands have managed to build credibility in both jewellry and watchmaking simultaneously. On the occasion of the brand’s 40th anniversary, it’s worth looking at how Jacob & Co. has succeeded where others have failed. Chapter 1: The Quenttin Jacob & Co.’s first 20 years were somewhat quiet on...
Worn & Wound
I feel that the contemporary watch market has a noticeable lack of fun, exciting, and unique watch case designs. Brands have put a major emphasis on dials made from rare materials or composed of intricate designs recently, but very few companies have put time into producing cases that offer a special experience for the wearer. Round and tank-styled timepieces are, and will forever be, the norm within the watch industry. However, this gap in the modern market gives collectors a chance to look back into vintage catalogs to familiarize themselves with fads and stylistic ventures of previous horological eras. With this in mind, I’d like to take a trip back to 1968 and examine the creation of the Hamilton Fontainebleau series, specifically the 6004 “Day ‘N Date” reference, to exhibit just how innovative case design can truly be. It’s typically an overlooked piece of the design formula, but when a watch features a case profile unlike any other, it certainly stands out among the pack. A Brief History of Fontainebleau and the 6004 In 1966, the patents for Hamilton designer Ulrich Nydegger’s new case were published. A couple of years later, the first few Fontainebleau models hit the market and garnered a decent amount of popularity. It wasn’t until 1969’s Fontainebleau Chrono-Matic chronograph, however, that the line would see a substantial amount of press and recognition for its innovative design. The collectibility of the Chrono-Matic model continues to increase o...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Japanese giant's most valuable watchesMore
Monochrome
Few initiatives in modern watchmaking genuinely place craft above product. The Time Æon Foundation is one that looks to safeguard and transmit traditional handmade techniques at the highest level. Its Naissance d’une Montre series has become the best expression of its mission, not just watches, but workshops of knowledge, where historical methods are relearned, applied, and […]
Monochrome
Since its founding in 2010 in Antwerp by Belgian industrial designer Benoît Mintiens, indie brand Ressence has positioned itself as a design-led watch studio that literally rethinks how time is displayed on the wrist. Animated by Ressence’s Orbital Convex System (ROCS), time circles around the dial like planets orbiting the Sun, using highly graphic and […]
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Worn & Wound
For as long as we’ve talked about Ressence, part of the discussion has always been about how clever they are for producing such an ingenious and unique system for time telling, all built on top of a standard, off-the-shelf ETA movement. Their patented ROCS module, which displays the time via a series of rotating discs rather than traditional hands, is a complicated piece of engineering that has always lived alongside a caliber that is rather ordinary. For me, and many others, this was always part of the charm of a Ressence watch, and underscored the idea that watchmaking is a broad discipline and that with some creativity even a simple ETA movement can be turned into something extraordinary. That changes a little today with the introduction of the Ressence Type 11, featuring the all new RW-01 movement, the first in-house designed Ressence movement. Designed specifically to power the ROCS, the RW-01 is an integrated, automatic caliber that appears to be an improvement in just about every way over previous movements found in Ressence watches. First and perhaps most notably, this movement has a 60 hour power reserve, which can be monitored on the dial via ceramic micro balls. For years, Ressence watches have featured power reserves that topped out at slightly less than the ETA movements they were based on due to the demands of running the ROCS module. But the RW-01 was designed from the ground up to work with ROCS, eliminating many of the compromises made with previous ...
Fratello
Most of you know the deal with Ressence watches by now. The highly original creations by Belgian designer Benoît Mintiens tell the time through an intuitive layout. The watches don’t use conventional hands; instead, they feature several eccentric satellites. Until now, the brand’s so-called Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) was always powered by a highly […] Visit Ressence Enters A Completely Different Ballgame With The New Type 11 And Its First Fully Integrated Movement to read the full article.
Monochrome
Over the past years, Kross Studio has emerged as an intriguing player in independent watchmaking. Founded just before the pandemic, the company has grown, gaining visibility through a series of collaborations inspired by pop culture – a deliberate departure from traditional watchmaking narratives – while at the same time demonstrating genuine technical credibility. Behind the […]
SJX Watches
Russian independent watchmaker and ACHI member Anton Suhanov returns with his third wristwatch, the dynamic Flamingo. Featuring Mr Suhanov’s first in-house movement, the Flamingo positions its massive balance wheel dial-side, and has a few other tricks up its sleeve as well. Initial thoughts Anton Suhanov made a name for himself for his inventive clocks, but more recently has turned his attention toward the more lucrative wristwatch market. Mr Suhanov’s first two wristwatches were modular constructions piggybacked on stock movements. Despite this common approach, his modifications were transformative, making his movements feel more personal and “in-house” than some truly in-house movements that are more traditional in concept. This evident commitment to the craft quickly gained Mr Suhanov a good reputation. After about four years of development, Mr Suhanov has unveiled a calibre he can truly call his own, the cal. Su26.1L. He built the movement from scratch, which gave him complete freedom both in terms of design and functionality. The result is a movement that possesses a number of unique and charming traits, both technical and aesthetic in nature. While the design of the Flamingo as a whole is deeply original (especially the use of non-functional ruby pallets for the hands), some elements on the dial side remind me of similar features of Greubel Forsey’s watches. For example, the two small sub-dials - a 24-hour indicator and small seconds - are rem...
Monochrome
Independent watchmaker Anton Suhanov, member of the AHCI, presents the Flamingo, a debut of his “flaming balance” concept in a wristwatch equipped with a fully in-house calibre. Known for complex clocks, including multi-axis tourbillons and the award-winning St Petersburg Easter Egg Tourbillon Clock (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2025), but also experimenting with wristwatches with […]
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