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Tourbillon

Breguet's 1801 rotating-cage escapement, explained.

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Hairspring

The coiled spring that controls the balance wheel; Huygens 1675, Breguet overcoil 1795.

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Daniel Roth

Designer behind modern Breguet 1973-89 and the eponymous Daniel Roth brand with its double-ellipse case.

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Breguet Numerals

The cursive italic Arabic numerals designed by Abraham-Louis Breguet ~1790; canonical haute-horlogerie dress watch numeral.

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Richard Mille RM 53-02 Oct 2, 2023

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Following our look at notable complications and artisanal masterpieces on offer at Sotheby’s Important Watches I in Hong Kong, we now consider the independent watchmaking highlights in the sale that takes place on October 7. The offerings in the sale range from establishment names like Philippe Dufour – on offer is a Simplicity 37 mm in platinum made after the original run – to newcomers like Pascal Coyon with a Besançon Observatory-certified chronometer. And the highlights also include the headline lot of the auction, the extravagant Richard Mille RM 53-02 in blue sapphire crystal. Important Watches I happens on October 7, 2023. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here.  The Richard Mille RM 53-02 Lot 2116: Pascal Coyon Chronometre  One of the most affordable offerings in the sale is the Pascal Coyon Chronometre, a watch inspired by the French watchmaker’s career as a watch and clock repairer in Bayonne. Though based on a Unitas 6498, Mr Coyon’s hand-wound movement bears a strong resemblance to classical 19th-century pocket watches from the likes of Longines. While the movement is still a Unitas 6498 at its core, it has been dressed up with frosted bridges and a snail cam regulator, amongst other things. Being one of his earlier watches, this has a plain, 42 mm polished steel case with a stepped bezel and a white lacquered dial with red numerals for “12” and “60”, complemented by Breguet-style hour and minute hands. This ...

Highlights: Sotheby’s Paris “Fine Watches” Online Auction SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw planetarium along Sep 16, 2023

Highlights: Sotheby’s Paris “Fine Watches” Online Auction

Sotheby’s Fine Watches has just opened online, marking the start of the fall auction season. Curated by the auctioneer’s Paris office led by Benoit Colson, the sale promises a diverse selection of vintage and contemporary watches from establishment names like Rolex and Breguet, along with a handful of independent watchmakers. While the complete catalogue boasts 160 lots, we have put together a selection of interesting highlights ranging from value-buy complications like a Breguet rattrapante chronograph to the unusual first-generation Christiaan Van Der Klaauw planetarium, along with a very nice vintage Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542. And for European buyers, Sotheby’s is notable for being the sole global auction house conducting watch auctions within the European Union – majority of such sales are in Geneva and London – which gives clients the chance to purchase watches without the hassle associated with import taxes. Fine Watches takes place online September 15-29. All the watches will be on show at the preview exhibition inside Sotheby’s Paris office located at 76 Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found on Sothebys.com. Lot 363: Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542 in yellow gold The Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542 was mostly in stainless steel with the distinctive “Pepsi” bezel. However, the present lot stands as out for being in yellow gold with a brown bezel and matching dial with nipple-shaped hour markers. Dating to 1958,...

What Was the First Wristwatch? Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 22, 2023

What Was the First Wristwatch?

It says a lot about the cultural impact of wristwatches that it seems to many of us as if they’ve been around forever, and in fact, there are watchmaking brands that can trace their history back two centuries or more; a handful are even older than the United States. Watches worn on the wrist, however, are a more recent phenomenon, at least for the general public, and while men make up the majority of serious wristwatch collectors and aficionados these days, women were the trendsetters of the style, wearing timepieces on their wrists nearly 100 years before gentlemen adopted them into their wardrobe. So who made the first wristwatch (for men and for women) and how did the wristwatch win over a male populace that at first considered them hopelessly effete? Our story begins in early 19th-Century France, with one of horological history's leading luminaries. First wristwatch (1810): Breguet No. 2639 for Queen Caroline Murat of Naples Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747 - 1823, above) was a native of Neuchâtel, Switzerland who plied his trade as a watchmaker in Paris and who today is regarded as one the most important figures in the history of timekeeping. Among Breguet’s many innovations were the first self-winding movement, the first repeater movement with a gong, one of the earliest constant-force escapements, and the device that he famously patented in 1801, the tourbillon escapement. But perhaps the most influential contribution Breguet made to the evolution of timekeeping wa...

Hands On: Longines Master Collection Small Seconds SJX Watches
Longines Master Collection Small Seconds Jul 27, 2023

Hands On: Longines Master Collection Small Seconds

Longines marked a historical milestone last year with the well-received Master Collection 190th Anniversary, a watch that combines classic good looks with a modest price tag. Now the brand has taken the same styling and applied it to another model to create the Master Collection Small Seconds. The Small Seconds makes its debut in a pleasing variety of dial colours, including a fashionable “salmon”. As much of a value proposition as last year’s anniversary model, the Small Seconds retains the same aesthetic as its predecessor but with a subsidiary seconds at six that gives it a more retro feel. But because of the small seconds, it becomes a noticeably thicker watch. So even though it looks much like the anniversary edition, the Small Seconds feels different. Initial thoughts The Small Seconds is largely identical to its centre-seconds counterpart, so it has much of the same appeal. The design is a pleasing vintage style with all the right elements like Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands. Admittedly, the styling is somewhat generic – it’s vintage inspired rather than a remake – but the result is appealing, especially considering its affordability. Although the watch is clearly an industrial product, the details are done well, the engraved numerals are especially attractive. This is especially so on the anthracite and salmon dials, which have the numerals in contrasting plating. The anthracite dial is especially striking because it is a relatively uncommon co...

A Week In Watches Ep. 53: Forged Carbon Regatta Timing With Tissot & More Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix which Jun 11, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 53: Forged Carbon Regatta Timing With Tissot & More

With our first year behind us (thanks for all the well wishes!), we’re back with episode 53 of A Week In Watches with new releases from Tissot, Breguet, Seiko & more. One of our favorite watches of the summer (thus far) has come from Tissot, and it’s a forged carbon regatta timer called the Sideral. Yes, it’s a callback to something they’ve done in the past, and yes, it’s still awesome. With a carbon case and Powermatic 80 movement, this is a ton of watch (and funk) for about $1,100, see more here. Elsewhere, Breguet gives us a first look at new Type 20 and Type XX watches, with a stunning new movement and a date window that may leave you scratching your head. Head to the video on YouTube to give us your take on the date, as well as the rest of the watches in this week’s episode. Rounding things out, we’ve got news of a new Pontos S Diver from Maurice Lacroix, which is a welcome site from the brand, though we wonder if it could have done with a slight bit of modernization? Speaking of, Seiko has modernized their King Seiko with a trimmer case architecture and a new movement which brings a date to the regular production modern King Seiko. Finally, IWC has brought the silver dial back to the Mark Pilot watch and it works about as well as you’d expect, which is to say, pretty damn well. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com....

Furlan Marri Adds a Trio of Sector Dial Three-Handers to their Permanent Collection Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Adds Mar 23, 2023

Furlan Marri Adds a Trio of Sector Dial Three-Handers to their Permanent Collection

You might recall that when Blake Buettner brought us news of Furlan Marri’s very first fully mechanical watch (after the success of their popular meca-quartz chronograph that we still can’t believe ever sold for under $500 during the crowdfunding campaign) he mentioned that the limited production black dialed three hander he had in for review would be followed up by a trio of models in the brand’s permanent collection. That was in June of 2022, and at long last, those watches are here. These three new references use the same platform as the previously issued “Black Sector” 2116-A, but in an array of colors that give the watch a new impact.  The new dials, Salmon Sector, Grey Sector, and White Sector, have been given reference numbers 2154-A, 2161-A, and 2145-A, respectively. While the Grey Sector has what Furlan Marri refers to as a double printed dial, the white and salmon versions both have applied baton hour markers, and all references have a fine texture applied to the dial. The Breguet style numerals at the cardinal positions have become a hallmark of sorts for Furlan Marri, and those remain on all three variants. Dial text is minimal (just the Furlan Marri wordmark and the reference number discreetly out of the way between 4 and 5), the sector layout identical to the black version from last year. Fans of aggressive symmetry will be quite pleased, I think.  An area where Furlan Marri has excelled since the launch of that first chronograph back in 2021 is i...

Airain Updates their Type 20 in a Stealthy Gray Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Massena Lab have also gotten Feb 27, 2023

Airain Updates their Type 20 in a Stealthy Gray Limited Edition

Airain, the heritage watch brand that made a triumphant return in 2020 with their Type 20 reissue, is back with a new spin on the popular (and historic) chronograph that gives it a sleek and under the radar look. Airain, you might remember, is one of the original French manufacturers of the Type 20 chronograph, the military aviator’s watch issued to French pilots in the 1950s and 60s. Several watchmakers were contracted by the French Ministry of Defense to produce the watches to spec, including Mathey Tissot, Dodane, and, most famously, Breguet. Vintage examples of the Type 20 are highly collectible, and Breguet of course still produces a variety of excellent chronographs under the moniker. Brands like Hemel and Massena LAB have also gotten in on the Type 20 action recently, which might harken a boom in interest in these very specific chronographs.  The specificity, I think, is part of the charm. Like other watches built for military purposes, the Type 20 was made to a certain standard, with certain key features, regardless of the manufacturer that actually produced it. In the case of the Type 20, those requirements included a black dial with registers at 3:00 and 6:00, giving the wearer the ability to time events up to 30 minutes in duration, along with a 38mm case diameter, a rotating 12 hour bezel, lumed hands and Arabic numerals, and accuracy to within 8 seconds per day. The other key feature was that the chronograph needed to have flyback functionality, a requireme...

Editorial: LVMH Revives Daniel Roth SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton as Feb 24, 2023

Editorial: LVMH Revives Daniel Roth

The news concerning a revival of Daniel Roth was been circulating in Geneva and Paris for over a year but it is now official. LVMH just announced Daniel Roth “will be run as an independent brand, with guidance and incubation from La Fabrique Du Temps Louis Vuitton, as of February 2023.” Once an independent brand run by its namesake founder, Daniel Roth had its heyday in the mid-1990s when classical complications with Breguet styling were the “in” thing with collectors. Due to Mr Roth’s personal and financial struggles, the brand then changed hands several times before ending up with Bulgari over a decade ago. Daniel Roth had been on ice for several years after a few half-hearted attempts by the Italian jeweller to do something with the brand. No doubt spurred by the renewed interest in independent watchmaking, LVMH has spun off Daniel Roth and attached it to La Fabrique du Temps (LFDT), the complications and movement factory owned by Louis Vuitton (and word has it that the same will soon be done with Gerald Genta, once the sister brand of Daniel Roth). One of the less successful Bulgari-Daniel Roth offerings, a “Chronosprint” made for the All Blacks, New Zealand’s rugby team Revived with resources The return of the brand is the brainchild of Jean Arnault, the Director of Marketing and Development at Louis Vuitton’s watch division. While Mr Arnault is best known as being the youngest son of LVMH chief executive Bernard Arnault, the younger Arnault is a c...

Best of 2022: Value Propositions SJX Watches
Longines Master Collection “190th Anniversary” is Dec 25, 2022

Best of 2022: Value Propositions

We’ve gone through the year’s best watches from independent watchmakers and establishment brands, as well as the most notable complications. Nearly all of the watches on those lists, however, are pricey. So now we round up the best affordable watches of the year, namely those under US$5,000. Put another way, these are the best value proposition of 2022, both in nominal and relative terms. As has become the norm, Tudor is shoo-in when it comes to value propositions. A streamlined version of its deep-sea dive watch, the Pelagos 39 is compact, lightweight, and minimalist. The case is 39 mm and all titanium, while the dial does away with the date but includes a line of red text in a nod to vintaged dive watches.  While much about the watch has been simplified, the details of the Pelagos 39 are fancier than usual. Both the dial and bezel insert are radially brushed – a matte metallic finish for the dial and brushed ceramic for the bezel – giving the Pelagos 39 a more reflective finish than its peers. When it comes to dress watches, the Longines Master Collection “190th Anniversary” is amongst the best, particularly at its US$2,000-ish price. It features a dial that appears to be highly elaborate with Breguet hour numerals that appear to be hand engraved. Naturally the dial is made by machine, but it is done convincingly enough that has a strikingly appealing aesthetic. Thanks to the dial, the watch certainly punches above its price segment. And like many Longin...

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Square Micro-Rotor SHH Edition SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe Oct 31, 2022

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Square Micro-Rotor SHH Edition

Having recently reopened Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH), a “concept” store dedicated to independent brands, Singapore retailer Sincere commissioned limited editions from several watchmakers to mark the event, including the Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe in purple. Following that, SHH has unveiled another finely decorated time-only wristwatch, the Laurent Ferrier Square Micro-Rotor SHH Edition. With Breguet numerals on the front and a natural escapement on the back, the SHH Edition is classical but given a contemporary aesthetic with a gradient mint green. Initial thoughts A store with 19 brands on its premises, SHH certainly has a diversity of watchmaking on offer. But amongst its most technically accomplished time-only watches are the creation of Laurent Ferrier. Seemingly plain-vanilla on the front, the brand’s Micro-Rotor is tells a different story on the reverse. The movement revives Abraham-Louis Breguet’s escapement from two centuries ago, while the automatic winding mechanism is elaborately executed. It is a watch that is easily appreciated by collectors who appreciate history and chronometry. Like most collaborative editions, the SHH edition retains the flavour of the original, but with enough tweaks that it appeals to the target audience, namely watch enthusiasts who like classical design. While many of the dial details are familiar, they are combined in a coherent and restrained manner. The effect is subtle but significant. When I first encounte...

Habring2 Introduces the Erwin ‘THC School Piece’ SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava refs 565 Oct 26, 2022

Habring2 Introduces the Erwin ‘THC School Piece’

An Austrian independent watchmaker specialising in honest and appealing watches, Habring² has just unveiled its latest jumping-seconds wristwatch, the Erwin “THC School Piece”. Based on the brand’s signature time-only watch, the School Piece is fitted with a two-tone dial that features familiar elements combined in an unusual manner. It sports ever-popular olive green, but only for the chapter ring that features Breguet numerals. Having a 1930s vibe thanks to the dial, the School Piece was unsurprisingly born of a request by a group of Asian collectors with an eye for vintage wristwatches. Initial thoughts Neither overly vintage nor too modern, the School Piece is arguably just right. The design blends details that are common but manages to do so at a coherent manner, resulting in something different that stands out from most Habring² creations – a feat considering the that most of the brand’s limited runs are vintage-inspired watches. The styling should allow the School Piece will speak to enthusiasts across the collecting spectrum. Vintage-watch enthusiasts will appreciate the hints of the Patek Philippe Calatrava refs. 565 and ref. 570. While those who follow modern watchmaking will like the two-tone dial with a prominent green ring that gives the dial more flair than the typical vintage-style watch. And then there are the Breguet numerals that almost everyone likes. While the School Piece is certainly appealing, there are arguably too many iterations of...

Habring2 Introduces the Chrono Felix Perpetual SJX Watches
Massena Lab Sep 21, 2022

Habring2 Introduces the Chrono Felix Perpetual

Continuing with the vintage-inspired aesthetic that has informed many of its recent models, Habring² is elaborating upon its single-button chronograph. Now the brand’s flagship model, the Chrono Felix Perpetual is self-explanatory – a hand-wind Felix chronograph with a perpetual calendar module. As is typical for Habring², the Chrono Felix Perpetual (CFP) approaches the double complication in a practical and affordable manner. It’s powered by the brand’s own A11 base movement, while the calendar is the familiar and reliable Dubois-Depraz module. The CFP is making its debut in two variants: a “salmon” dial with Breguet numerals as well as a striking black-and-silver version for Massena Lab. The “salmon” dial model available from Habring² Initial thoughts Although Habring² introduced a split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar three years ago, the CFP feels like an all-new product. And it is, in fact, new in most tangible respects. The case is smaller while the movement has been dressed up and even incorporates an in-house escapement and balance assembly. The CFP is a handsome watch with surprisingly compact proportions. In fact, the CFP will feel like the standard Habring² Felix chronograph, since they share the same case middle with the CFP having a thicker bezel. The Massena Lab edition While both versions of the CFP have the same dimensions, they are aesthetics opposites despite both being vintage inspired. Habring²’s edition is a warm,...

Furlan Marri Introduces the Ref. 2116-A “Sector” Dial Automatic SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1463 Now Jun 15, 2022

Furlan Marri Introduces the Ref. 2116-A “Sector” Dial Automatic

A brand that made its debut just last year, Furlan Marri is all about affordable watches with retro style – just like many of its peers that entered the business around the same time. But the brand manages to set itself apart with a keen sense for design and details, something that was evident in its inaugural model, a quartz chronograph modelled on the Patek Philippe ref. 1463. Now the brand unveils something that’s arguably more compelling, the Reference 2116-A “Black Sector”. Once again vintage in style with compact proportions, the “Black Sector” is however automatic. Initial thoughts My first impression of the Reference 2116-A was positive. The styling is appealing and it is well priced, despite being a major step-up from the quartz chronograph in terms of case quality and the movement. In fact, the 2116-A is very well priced. It costs about US$1,250 but brings along fancy features such as artfully finished “cow horn” lugs, which is typically found on more expensive watches or actual vintage watches. At the same time, the watch is replete with retro details that collectors will like. That includes a properly proportioned dial where everything is laid out just nice, in contrast to many modern-day “sector” dial that can appear sparse. And the Breguet numerals may not be original or novel, but they are pleasing. As appealing as it is, the 2116-A still has a few shortcomings, at least for me personally. One is the wide cover for the central boss of th...

Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Millenary Minute Repeater May 22, 2022

Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

Having rounded up a few highlights from the independents at the Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong watch auction taking place on May 27 and 28, we now turn to the notable complicated watches. We selected five watches, most of which are exceptionally complicated and extremely expensive when they were new, making them value buys today. These include lesser known watches from major brands, such as as the Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon and the Audemars Piguet Millenary Minute Repeater with an unusual direct-impulse escapement. And the selection also includes a unique Patek Philippe ref. 3974 with a dial bearing Breguet numerals and an unusual Calatrava cross (which won’t likely be a value buy unfortunately). Registration for bidding and the full catalogue for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV can be accessed here. Lot 855: Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon Cartier’s modern-day venture into high horology was at its most ambitious with the Fine Watchmaking collection launched in 2008, which included various creative complications such as the range of mystery watches. But amongst the most complicated watches in the collection was Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon, a complicated watch executed in a classical style. But the movement was constructed in an unconventional manner with most of the mechanics inverted so that the repeater gongs and hammers are visible on the dial. And the calibre also incorporates tech...

H. Moser & Cie. Unveils the Endeavour Total Eclipse SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Unveils Jan 20, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Unveils the Endeavour Total Eclipse

H. Moser & Cie. has teamed up with the menswear store with outposts in Hong Kong and New York for the Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse, a striking creation that utilises the starkness of Vantablack and polished elements on the dial to evoke a solar eclipse. The Endeavour Total Eclipse will be offered in two guises, both cased in steel but with the dial flange, markers, and hands in either matching steel or contrasting red gold. Initial thoughts Being an independent watchmaker that typically does the traditional with a distinct, quirky twist, Moser is clearly being itself with the Endeavour Total Eclipse. The styling is minimalist but different enough to be interesting – the domed hour markers and Breguet-style hands are rarely found on Moser’s watches, save for special runs such as the Bryan Ferry edition. The unusual design is largely thanks  to Mark Cho, The Armoury’s co-founder and a dapper dresser with a passion for classically-sized watches with attractive details. His primary requirement for the collaboration was a small(ish) case, explaining its 38 mm diameter that’s substantially more compact than Moser’s typical offerings – doubt good news for enthusiasts who share the same taste. But the highlight is the dial, which is a first for Moser. Thought the brand has used Vantablack in the past, this is the very first time it is combining a Vantablack-coated dial with hour markers. Small but high contrast, the hour markers easily stand out from the b...

Highlights: George Daniels and Ralph Ellison at Phillips’ New York Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5711/1A-018 made Dec 7, 2021

Highlights: George Daniels and Ralph Ellison at Phillips’ New York Auction

While the most high profile lot at Phillips’ upcoming New York sale is surely the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-018 made for the 170th anniversary of Tiffany & Co., there are a handful more watches in the sale that are notable for different reasons. One is unquestionably the tourbillon pocket watch George Daniels made for Edward Hornby in 1971 for its sheer horological merit. And another notable watch sits at the opposite end of the spectrum in terms of horological quality – it’s a standard Omega Speedmaster Moon Watch – but it is historically important, having been owned by Ralph Ellison, the novelist best known for Invisible Man. The 2021 New York Watch Auction takes place on December 11 1 (lots 1-81) and December 12 (lots 82-165) at 432 Park Avenue, New York. The rest of the catalogue is available here. Lot 102: George Daniels The Edward Hornby Tourbillon Pocket Watch One of eight similar watches, all equipped with a one-minute tourbillon, this was made in 1971 for Edward Hornby, a lawyer who collected watches. Made during the period of 1969 to 1973, the eight watches were the first of Daniels’ own creations. Almost all were made for English collectors, save for one that Daniels made for his daughter, Sarah Jane, and another for German chemist Thomas Engel. Named after its first owner like all the other watches in the series of eight, the Hornby watch is typical Daniels, and consequently, also very much Breguet in style. Entirely hand made by Daniels,...

November 2021 Ineichen Auctions To Offer Fascinating Timepieces By Independent Watchmakers Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Patek Philippe Nov 15, 2021

November 2021 Ineichen Auctions To Offer Fascinating Timepieces By Independent Watchmakers

Ineichen Zurich announces special auctions of rare timepieces to be hosted simultaneously in Zurich and online November 20-21, 2021. On offer are a some very desirable watches from A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Breguet as well as independents including F.P. Journe, De Bethune, Vianney Halter, Urwerk, Konstantin Chaykin, and Svend Andersen. Have a look at our picks here.

Horizon Watches Debuts with the Horizon Diver SJX Watches
Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms Oct 12, 2021

Horizon Watches Debuts with the Horizon Diver

The latest crowdfunded maker of affordable dive watches, Horizon Watches was founded by a veteran of the micro-brand scene, Fred Bekher, a designer who has penned dozens of watches for horological startups. Mr Bekher’s first design for his own brand is the Nautilus, a dive watch with an Art Deco-meets-steampunk aesthetic. Though the model name sounds like something else, it takes inspiration from literature, specifically the submariner commanded by Caption Nemo from Jules Verne’s Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea.  “While I was reading [the novel] as a child, I would imagine how the Nautilus looked like”, Mr Bekher says of his love for sci-fi and the steampunk world of Verne’s works. Initial thoughts The model name aside, the Nautilus is an original design – it manages not to look like anything else – which is an achievement in the space of affordable dive watches. It’s also thought in form, something that’s evident in the dial and case construction, notable for a watch that starts at US$350. And the design is appealing, most notably the Art Deco font and the smartly-disguised date. And smart it is: the date window is sized identically to the hour markers, while the date disc is entirely “lumed”, so it glows just like an hour marker. That said, some details do inevitably call to mind other, more famous dive watches, namely the Breguet Marine in terms of the dial and the Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms for the bezel, but as a whole the Nautilus passes ...

Ulysse Nardin Introduces Classico The Hour Glass Ginza 25th Anniversary SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Sep 17, 2021

Ulysse Nardin Introduces Classico The Hour Glass Ginza 25th Anniversary

A mainstay of the luxury-watch scene in Tokyo for a quarter century, The Hour Glass in Ginza is the only Japanese outpost of the Singapore-based watch retailer. Led since its opening by watch veteran Atsushi Momoi, the store in the posh shopping district recently reopened after a makeover, just in time for its 25th anniversary. To mark the occasion, the store commissioned a pair of limited-edition models, including the Ulysse Nardin Classico The Hour Glass Ginza 25th Anniversary (and the other a Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon in platinum). The newly-revamped store in Ginza Initial thoughts Unsurprisingly given the experience of Mr Momoi and his team, the Ginza anniversary edition has an appealing, classical aesthetic characterised by a strong attention to detail. In fact, despite its simplicity, the dial is replete with elegant, smart details. One of the most subtle is the fact that “Swiss made” sits on the minute track, streamlining the dial. And it goes without saying the date has been removed. And illustrating the discretion often prized by Japanese clientele, the most expensive upgrade to the watch is hidden – the 22k gold rotor on the back. Sophisticated, classical style While UN typically favours Roman numerals on its watches, the Ginza anniversary edition is executed in a style that is decidedly classical, reflecting the taste of the Japanese consumer. The dial is “salmon” in tone and finished with a radial guilloche, with applied Breguet n...

Massena Lab Introduces Habring2 with J.N. Shapiro Guilloche Dial SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduces Habring2 Aug 24, 2021

Massena Lab Introduces Habring2 with J.N. Shapiro Guilloche Dial

After two collaborations with Habring², Massena Lab has just taken the covers off its third joint project with the Austria watchmaker. Strikingly different from the earlier “sector” dial editions, the Erwin Lab03 is a step up in terms of dial decoration. Doing away with the printed sector dial of earlier editions, Massena Lab recruited American guillocheur J.N. Shapiro to create an engine-turned bronze dial with classical Roman numerals and Breguet hands. Initial thoughts Having three variations of one Habring² model in as many years might seem a lot, but Massena Lab has made each version distinctive, each is different enough to bear little resemblance to the stock Erwin. At the same time, the Erwin has appeal. It’s wearable and compact while having an interesting complication, a jumping seconds. Perhaps more elegant than the earlier Massena Lab Erwins, the LAB03 distinguishes itself from the typical guilloche-dial watch. The salmon colour is faddish, but the extra-large Roman numerals and absence of hour markers make the watch stand out from most Breguet-inspired watches. The highlight is definitely the hand-crafted dial. It’s made by Joshua Shapiro, a self-taught independent watchmaker and engine-turning specialist best known for pulling off the extremely intricate guilloche pattern of his own creation. At the same time, Mr Shapiro’s rising reputation certainly adds to the appeal of LAB03. Priced at US$9,450, the Lab03 is the most expensive Erwin from ...

Only Watch 2021: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola”

F.P. Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021 is an interesting one – the FFC Blue, characterised by a hand on the dial that displays the hours. Like F.P. Journe’s past contributions to Only Watch, the FFC Blue is powered by a prototype movement – rough around the edges and lots of character – and features a case of tantalum, the grey-blue metal synonymous with the bestselling Chronometre Bleu. Named after the initials of Francis Ford Coppola, the film director best known for The Godfather, the FFC Blue originated in a 2012 visit to Mr Coppola’s residence. The director asked Mr Journe a seemingly innocuous question over dinner, wondering whether it was possible to tell the time with a human hand. Mr Journe mulled it over and over several years devised a mechanism with the help of Mr Coppola, who sent sketches of the desired finger positions for each hour. The unveiling of the FFC Blue also marks the 20th anniversary of the F.P. Journe Octa and its automatic cal. 1300 (it’s the second watch to mark the occasion in fact), which is the base movement of the FFC Blue. Initial Impressions At first glance, the FFC Blue is bizarre for F.P. Journe. The hand sculpture on the dial is unlike most of the brand’s other designs, which are mostly conservative and often Breguet-inspired. Upon closer examination, indeed a bizarre watch it is – in a good way. The mechanism is an impressive example of an automaton, a complex answer to a simple question: how can the human hand...