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Results for Caliber 9S85

761 articles · 133 videos found · page 26 of 30

From the Seiko SKX to the SPB317: How I Fell in Love with Seiko Again Worn & Wound
Seiko SKX Sep 25, 2025

From the Seiko SKX to the SPB317: How I Fell in Love with Seiko Again

At the end of summer 2014, Dad gave me my first mechanical watch. There was nothing ceremonial about it; he simply handed me the box in the car. “I’m starting a new tradition, and it’s a grown-up gift since you’re heading to college,” he said. I looked down at the box. It said Seiko. I was familiar with the brand. In fact, it was what I had been wearing up to that point: reference SNE039, a mid-sized solar-powered watch that Grandpa gave me when he saw me showing interest in it. I still have it. But this Seiko was different. It was a reference SKX173, a sibling of the beloved SKX007 dive watch that has led many a good man down the rabbit hole. It had a waterproof case, rotating dive bezel that I had no clue how to operate, and most importantly, an automatically winding movement.  “It’s easy – just shake it a bit to get it going,” said Dad. (OGs will remember the caliber 7s26’s lack of hand winding). I took the watch out of the box and shuffled it back and forth gently to coax it to life. It did, and as I stared at the sweeping seconds hand, I marveled that a microscopic team of gears, levers, and springs were all working harmoniously just to tell time. As an incoming engineering student, I couldn’t have asked for a better gift. I secured the black rubber strap on my wrist, and that was that. The remainder of the summer was spent reading everything I could get my hands on about Seiko watches and mechanical timekeeping at large. The excitement of movin...

Explained: Dial Making at A. Lange & Söhne SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 25, 2025

Explained: Dial Making at A. Lange & Söhne

Since its rebirth in 1994, A. Lange & Söhne has built an enviable reputation among collectors, based in large part on its rich portfolio of movements. Visiting the manufacture in Glashütte, it’s easy to see why; nearly all of the roughly 650 staff are engaged in some aspect of movement production. As a result, in little more than 30 years, Lange has commercialised 75 distinct calibers and has the manpower to apply a consistent level of finishing across the entire range, from the simple to the sublime. Historically, this single-minded focus on movements has meant that dials have often taken a back seat. Though uniformly high quality and made of noble materials like sterling silver and solid 18k gold, the brand’s dials tend to be simple, classical, and austere. An obvious exception that springs to mind is the sapphire crystal-dialed Lumen series, but sapphire crystal is a common material in watchmaking and these dials tend to be produced in a relatively industrial manner. Despite its focus on movements, Lange began to stretch its wings with artisanal dials as far back as the year 2000, first with enamel and later with mother-of-pearl, guilloché, tremblage, free-hand engraving, aventurine glass, and onyx. Most of these dials were produced by suppliers, but the brand has quietly built an immensely talented team of engravers and enamellists since launching the Handwerkskunst editions in 2011, and now crafts some of the industry’s most extraordinary dials within its own...

Introducing: Three 38mm Perpetual Calendars From Audemars Piguet Fratello
Audemars Piguet Audemars Piguet Sep 17, 2025

Introducing: Three 38mm Perpetual Calendars From Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet is known for many things, and the perpetual calendar is certainly among them. From ultra-thin variants to recent Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar references, the complication has been a cornerstone of the brand’s horological reputation. Earlier this year, AP launched a new generation of calibers designed with ergonomics in mind inside 41mm Royal […] Visit Introducing: Three 38mm Perpetual Calendars From Audemars Piguet to read the full article.

A History and Guide to Laco Worn & Wound
Laco Located Sep 12, 2025

A History and Guide to Laco

Located in the southwest of Germany in Baden-Württemburg, Pforzheim is built at the confluence of three rivers. In the eighteenth century, the city became a hub of jewelry making, with watchmaking experiencing a pronounced revival in the early twentieth century, resulting in Pforzheim’s nickname of the “Goldstadt,” or “Golden City.” Founded by Frieda Lacher and Ludwig Hummel in 1925, Lacher & Co., today known as Laco Uhrenmanufaktur GmbH, played a significant role in this expansion of German watchmaking. Their aim was simple - produce watches of quality and reliability. The pair split a few years later, with Hummel remaining with the watch production side. While many German watchmakers relied on Swiss movements, Hummel chose a different direction. He founded Deutsche Uhren Roh Werke (Durowe) in 1933, dedicated to the manufacture of movements to become independent from Swiss calibers. Located in the southwest of Germany in Baden-Württemburg, Pforzheim is built at the confluence of three rivers. In the eighteenth century, the city became a hub of jewelry making, with watchmaking experiencing a pronounced revival in the early twentieth century, resulting in Pforzheim’s nickname of the “Goldstadt,” or “Golden City.” Founded by Frieda Lacher and Ludwig Hummel in 1925, Lacher & Co., today known as Laco Uhrenmanufaktur GmbH, played a significant role in this expansion of German watchmaking. Their aim was simple - produce watches of quality and reliabilit...

Hanhart and German Magazine Armbanduhren Unveil a Limited Edition Preventor HD12 in Purple Worn & Wound
Sep 9, 2025

Hanhart and German Magazine Armbanduhren Unveil a Limited Edition Preventor HD12 in Purple

I’ve long had a contentious relationship with the color purple; between youth softball teams and grad school alma maters, it’s always difficult to find anything to wear with the color that isn’t immediately clashing. But purple is also a color associated with luxury and royalty, so I am approaching the new Silk Purple Hanhart Preventor HD12, a collaboration with German watch magazine Armbanduhren, with an open mind.  Hanhart’s Preventor HD12 was originally launched in August 2024, and has fast become one of the Swiss-German brand’s most popular pieces. A field watch-style dial design paired with HD12 scratch-resistant steel, and powered by a Sellita caliber SW200-1 or Soprod SOP P024 automatic movement, the Preventor combines the vintage styling that Hanhart is known for with robust construction and durability.  With easy-wearing case dimensions of 39mm in diameter and 46mm lug-to-lug, the Preventor positions itself as an everyday timekeeping watch with few complications-even lacking a date window. The HD12 steel is made scratch-resistant through a multi-stage hardening process, in which carbon is diffused into the steel and the case is covered in an additional PVD coating. Hanhart continues to tout the “hardness” factor of the Preventor by protecting the dial with a scratch-resistant convex-curved sapphire crystal.  Of course, the dial is where the fun happens for this limited edition Preventor. The matte Silk Purple contrasts starkly with the white Ara...

A Hands-On Introduction To The New Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Power Reserve Fratello
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Power Sep 9, 2025

A Hands-On Introduction To The New Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Power Reserve

Hamilton’s Khaki Field line is the brand’s most popular and best-known collection. The outdoorsy watches are fan favorites and available in many variations. You can get a Hamilton Khaki Field in myriad sizes, with quartz, automatic, and hand-wound calibers, as well as with many dial options. But today, the brand introduces a new complication on […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The New Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Power Reserve to read the full article.

Hands-On: Renaud Tixier Introduces the Monday Organica by Oliver Vaucher, a Visually Stunning Solution to a Horological Problem Worn & Wound
Sep 5, 2025

Hands-On: Renaud Tixier Introduces the Monday Organica by Oliver Vaucher, a Visually Stunning Solution to a Horological Problem

Our first meeting at thai year’s Geneva Watch Days might turn out to be one of the best. Renaud Tixier launched during Watches & Wonders week of 2024 with a bold idea: seven revolutionary horological creations, released in a series of watches that will take nearly two decades to complete. Their first watch, the Monday (guess what the others will be called) is an attempt to solve the problem of the micro-rotor. While these small, often heavy rotors are wonderful for creating automatic watches that are nearly as thin as manually wound watches (and for showing off elaborate movement decoration) they are inherently inefficient. The Monday seeks to solve that problem with a completely new horological invention.  The Renaud of Renaud Tixier is Dominique Renaud, the legendary watchmaker who was one half of the famed Renaud & Papi firm, who carved out a niche for themselves in the 1980s and 90s by creating ultra high end complications for the most prestigious brands. Renaud Tixier works along similar lines, but of course is a brand unto itself, and Renaud seems free to pursue whatever horological problem solving might be of interest to him. These watches, while incredibly beautiful, are ultimately for the hardcore movement nerds among us.  The innovation of this first Renaud Tixier caliber is in the behavior of the micro-rotor. The brand refers to it as “the Dancer” because of the way the mechanism seems to dance at even the slightest jostle. Renaud Tixier’s micro-rotor ...

Sternglas Introduces The Hamburg Pro Automatik In Two Variants Fratello
Aug 29, 2025

Sternglas Introduces The Hamburg Pro Automatik In Two Variants

We are no strangers to the Sternglas Hamburg collection. The brand’s popular model, named after its hometown, is available in various versions powered by quartz or mechanical calibers. Additionally, the Sternglas Hamburg is available as a time-and-date model or a chronograph. The German brand now introduces two top-of-the-line models that feature slimmer cases, an upgraded […] Visit Sternglas Introduces The Hamburg Pro Automatik In Two Variants to read the full article.

Not Another Indie: How Armin Strom Stands Out in a Crowded Playing Field Fratello
Armin Strom Stands Out Aug 12, 2025

Not Another Indie: How Armin Strom Stands Out in a Crowded Playing Field

I’ve written several articles about Armin Strom. From normal reviews to a closer look at the brand’s resonance calibers, it’s fun to take a closer look at this brand. But why is that? In my view, the brand stands out among other haute horlogerie brands for several reasons. The watches seamlessly combine technical chops in […] Visit Not Another Indie: How Armin Strom Stands Out in a Crowded Playing Field to read the full article.

Tissot PRX 35mm Review: All Wrist Sizes Welcome? Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot PRX 35mm Review All Aug 7, 2025

Tissot PRX 35mm Review: All Wrist Sizes Welcome?

With Tissot's revival of its 1978 Seastar design and its transformation into the PRX line back in 2021, the brand seemed to catch lightning in a bottle, offering the watch-collecting world an integrated-bracelet style at an affordable price point. While the PRX collection initially debuted with quartz-powered watches (with price tags to reflect that), the brand built on the initial success of the new identity and further developed its value proposition with the release of PRX models incorporating an automatic mechanical movement - the Powermatic 80 caliber - all while remaining under the $1,000 mark. In the years since, Tissot has only continued to diversify its repertoire of models within the PRX model family, offering a variety of case sizes, additional functionality, and, of course, nearly every color option that you can dream up, still at one of the most competitive price points in the industry. We know it, we love it, and though we aren’t through the decade yet, I think it’s safe to say that the Tissot PRX has solidified itself as one of the most influential watches of the 2020s. Today, I'll focus on none other than the Tissot PRX 35mm. Inarguably, the 40mm PRX remains the most popular size of the watch, but as someone who makes her preference for smaller watches well-known, I would argue that shaving off just 5mm in diameter has a profound impact on the versatility of the design, especially for those with smaller wrists.  Tissot PRX History Size comparison: ...

Bulova Jet Star Review: Retro Design Meets Cutting-Edge Precision Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Jet Star Review Retro Jul 30, 2025

Bulova Jet Star Review: Retro Design Meets Cutting-Edge Precision

The Bulova Jet Star is one of those watches that leaves no room for doubt as to the decade from which its distinctive design originates. Revived in 2023 to commemorate the original's 50th anniversary, in a trio of diverse colorways, all the modern Jet Star models vibe “‘70s throwback” in a major way, with their unconventional, turtle-shaped cases and boldly colorful dials. However, they’re also very avant-garde in ways that their predecessors simply weren’t able to be, particularly in their use of Bulova’s high-frequency Precisionist calibers, their elevated level of finishing, and the almost three-dimensional degradé effect enhancing their dials. Scroll down for a closer look at each of the 50th anniversary Bulova Jet Star watches. Bulova Jet Star Case And Bracelet The modern Jet Star case is more angular and multifaceted than the curvilinear “turtle” shape of its 1970s predecessor. Strictly speaking, the case is octagonally shaped and topped with a round bezel that hugs the domed sapphire crystal. Measuring 40mm in diameter, approximately 45mm lug to lug, and 12.5mm thick, it boasts an array of polished and brushed finishes that accentuate those multiple, subtle edges and surfaces and lend the Jet Star an air of luxury in addition to its unmistakable retro charm. The lugs themselves are relatively short, with a 20mm lug width to accommodate the bracelet (on the two steel versions) or strap (on the gold-tone model and the steel limited edition). The crown...

40 Best Chronograph Watches (2026) Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC813 Price Jul 28, 2025

40 Best Chronograph Watches (2026)

Watchmaking, at its core, has always been about functionality. By wearing a timekeeper, not only did you get an instant update on at what point in the day you are in, but dependent on complication, you also had the opportunity to see at what point the moon was at in its cycle, what year you are in and even the opportunity to time various events (the big race or dinner). Since their invention more than 200 years ago, chronographs have established themselves the most versatile additions to the field of timekeeping. The very first was conceived as an aid to astronomical observations; over the years, chronographs have proven visually appealing as well as useful in day to day life. While nobody is entirely sure when the first chronograph was conceived, we do often point to Mr Nicolas Rieussec’s creation of 1821, which saw a spot of ink dropped onto a rotating disc of paper and dropped another when the timed event came to an end. Since then, it has become a complication we have seen from almost every brand out there. As we begin a new year, we felt the time was right to spotlight some of the best chronographs that are on the market in 2026. Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC813 Price: $695, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 13.3mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Seiko Solar Caliber V192 The original Seiko Speedtimer, released in 1969, was among the world’s first self-winding chronograph watches, equipped with the legendary Calib...

The 77 Best Microbrand Watches In 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Christopher Ward who produce Jul 25, 2025

The 77 Best Microbrand Watches In 2026

When it comes to watch consumers' interest, there has over the past several years been a rising level of interest in watch brands that deviate from what might be viable for the mass market luxury watch brands but appeal to a niche but passionate audience. These so-called microbrands have represented one of the fastest-growing segments of the mechanical watch market, in which small shops can produce quality products that compete for connoisseurs' attention with the titans of the business. In the past several years, we've handled hundreds of watches from different microbrands out there; In this blog, we take a closer look at some of the best microbrand watches that the market has to offer in a variety of price ranges. What makes a Microbrand Watch? Now first, it is important to try to best classify what a microbrand is and what it isn’t. To me, a microbrand is a limited-production watch company that typically specializes in a particular style that does not have extensive resources to produce its own in-house calibers or other proprietary parts. This classification can get a little grey in the area of independent watchmakers that typically either have higher levels of watchmaking, like a Habring2, who have a master watchmaker like Richard Habring at the helm, or are a brand like Christopher Ward, who produce a high number of pieces and has in-house production capacities. The Best Microbrand Watches: The Latest Additions Santurce  A microbrand with a strong Puerto Rican per...

Seiko Turtle SRPE93 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain Jul 24, 2025

Seiko Turtle SRPE93 Review

The Seiko Prospex SRPE93, the most recent version of the legendary Seiko Turtle dive watch, hit the market relatively recently, in 2021, but its lineage can be traced all the way back to the 1970s. What makes this defiantly retro-looking tool watch such a favorite of enthusiasts even today? There’s a lot more to it than the very accessible price point, as we’ll explore here in this in-depth examination - or, a look under the shell, if you will -  of the SRPE93 “Turtle.” Seiko, the world’s oldest and most established Japanese watchmaking brand, was one of the pioneers of the dive-watch genre and it has long stood apart from its Swiss contemporaries in this field (i.e. Rolex, Blancpain, and others) for its use of bold and unconventional designs. One of its most off-the-wall and yet most enduringly popular designs is the original "Turtle” - aka, Ref. 6306 and 6309 - which made its debut in 1976. The former reference was made exclusively for the Japanese market (and thus, vintage examples are much rarer and more valuable), and the latter was sold to international customers. The reptilian nickname derived from the watches’ cushion-shaped cases with softly rounded lugs, which brought to mind the silhouette of a turtle when viewed from above. The reference numbers for the watches essentially matched those of their automatic movements - Caliber 6306A, which included hacking seconds and Caliber 6309A, which did not.  The Turtle’s unusual look and rugged ...

Best Watches Under $10,000 Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko SBGM221 Price $5,900 Reference:SBGM221 Jul 21, 2025

Best Watches Under $10,000

Building a watch collection is generally a progression, beginning with the accumulation of a handful of modestly priced favorites and building toward the quest for pricier and more coveted models as one's knowledge and disposable income grow. We've showcased many worthwhile models in many price categories, but it's the sweet spot between $5,000 to about $10,000 that many consider the most fertile ground for finding some of those Holy Grails of timekeeping from some of the world's legendary watch brands. If you're in the market for your first "icon" watch (and you're looking to buy new rather than vintage or pre-owned), here are 21 of the best watches under $10,000 to consider, all topping out below the five-figure price barrier. Grand Seiko SBGM221 Price: $5,900 Reference:SBGM221, Case Size: 39.5mm, Case Height: 13.7mm, Lug Width: 19mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: GS 9S66 In 2017 Grand Seiko released the SBGM221 GMT which has stood as one of the brand’s best values to date. Inspired by some of their 1960s designs, the SBGM221 is characterized by that simple ivory-colored dial and vibrant blue GMT hand not to mention the eminently wearable 39.5mm wide steel case. And then there is the Zaratsu polishing throughout the case and dial which plays with the light in a way that only Grand Seiko seems able to do. The Caliber 9S66 is a tried and tested “true” GMT movement that allows you do independently adjust the hour hand and operates at 4 Hz w...

Craft, Precision, and the Future of American Watchmaking: an Interview with Josh Shapiro Worn & Wound
Shapiro Jul 17, 2025

Craft, Precision, and the Future of American Watchmaking: an Interview with Josh Shapiro

To pursue the level of watchmaking American independent brand J.N. Shapiro has, you need more than a bit of talent and a dash of ambition. Even if you manage to master the skills required to craft the impressively detailed neo-vintage watches J.N. Shapiro makes, having a unique enough take on a traditional aesthetic and the business savvy to compete on the world’s stage of independent watchmaking is another story altogether. It demands a near-monastic lifestyle to pull off. J.N. Shapiro’s founder and visionary, Josh Shapiro, hasn’t just answered the call – he’s actually making it work.  More remarkable still, Shapiro produces his premier line of watches, the Resurgence, entirely in the United States and almost entirely in-house. Notably, “in-house” is used in the literal sense here, meaning under one roof – a very different thing from what that term has come to mean as a shadowy marketing tool that tends to gloss over some subcontracting and outside manufacturing. Every component in the Resurgence, save for jewels and springs, is entirely produced and finished by Shapiro and his team in California.  While a watch of the Resurgence’s caliber being produced both in-house and domestically is as impressive as it is unexpected, there’s more at play here than just an inflated sense of national pride. Bootstrapping high-level American watchmaking and parts manufacturing certainly benefits Shapiro’s operation first and foremost, but it’s also part of a la...

Breitling Refreshes the Superocean Heritage Collection Worn & Wound
Breitling Refreshes Jun 11, 2025

Breitling Refreshes the Superocean Heritage Collection

For the first time since 2017, Breitling is refreshing their Superocean Heritage collection. This line has always been something of an under the radar gem. Breitling of course is known for their pilot and aviation themed watches, which run a wide gamut between classical (the Navitimer) and tech-forward contemporary (all of the ana-digi releases through the years). Divers (or “sea watches” as they’re referred to in the latest press materials) seem a little outside the brand’s wheelhouse at first blush, but of course as an historic maker of tool watches, it makes sense to dip into this ultra competitive genre. The Superocean Heritage has always felt like one of the more tasteful vintage inspired sports watch lines, and while they aren’t discussed as frequently as something like the Black Bay family of watches, the collection has always had its fans and the watches themselves are undeniably refined and capture exactly the vibe they intend to.  This is a full refresh that seems to be focused squarely on variety and appealing to a broad segment of the “sea watch” market. The new Superocean Heritage models come in a total of four sizes: 44mm, 42mm, 40mm, and 36mm. In addition, there’s a Superocean Heritage Chronograph that comes in at 42mm. The 40mm+ three-handers all use the still new B31 caliber, Breitling’s first exclusive three-hand manufacture caliber.  Dials across the collection can be had in black, blue, and green. All feature color matched ceramic be...

Breitling Superocean Heritage Review Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Superocean Heritage Review Jun 11, 2025

Breitling Superocean Heritage Review

The Breitling Superocean Heritage has been around since 2007 and stands as one of the brand’s most popular offerings due to its classical, vintage-inspired design and broad range of size options. The collection was updated in 2017, with the Superocean Heritage II, and in 2025 we have gotten the third major update to the collection that now includes improvements throughout as well as the use of the B31 movement. And perhaps most appealing is the long-awaited introduction of a 40mm case size. While Breitling refers to the Superocean Heritage as a “Sea Watch,” these are all as robust and resilient as any dive watch. There are a total of six watches in the new Breitling Superocean Heritage collection, all of which have 200 meters of water resistance: the 42mm chronograph outfitted with the manufacture Caliber 01; three time-and-date models in 40mm, 42mm, and 44mm case sizes outfitted with the B31 movement; and a 36mm time-and-date model outfitted with the Caliber 10 automatic movement. The sixth is a special limited edition done with surfer and longtime brand ambassador Kelly Slater, who co-designed a 40mm model. Before getting into these models, let’s discuss what’s new overall for this update of the Superocean Heritage. The Updates And Changes First off, you’ll notice the sharper hour markers and especially that new 12 o’clock marker, which has a circle with a sharp index cutting through it - a throwback to the original Superocean. I think this will likely b...

Tudor GMT: The Definitive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor GMT May 7, 2025

Tudor GMT: The Definitive Guide

Before getting into the Tudor GMT guide, let's put the brand in context as it has experienced a modern renaissance since returning to the U.S. market with the Black Bay collection in 2012. No longer content as a mere sub-brand of big brother Rolex, Tudor has established itself as the de facto tool-watch manufacture in the $3,000 - $6,000 range, and the brand has done it through methodical progress within the Black Bay, Ranger, and Pelagos families. In 2016, Tudor introduced its first in-house caliber in the North Flag, and has since established its own movements throughout the portfolio, allowing Tudor to approach complications in its own way. Arguably, the most important of these complications is the GMT, which made its modern debut with the Black Bay GMT in 2018. But that’s not the first GMT from the brand.  In this guide, we’ll take a look back at what may be some forgotten GMT references from Tudor, and make our way through the now expansive modern stable of watches boasting the reference today. A GMT is likely the most most requested feature when it comes to new Tudor watches, and lately, the brand has been particularly in tune with those demands - to the point where it’s safe to say that we’re spoiled for choice these days. That’s not to say that there aren’t a few expressions of this complication that we’d still like to see, and I’ll outline some of those in closing.  The GMT complication is a foundational part of the Rolex identity, with Tudor'...

Rolex Oysterquartz: The Complete Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton May 1, 2025

Rolex Oysterquartz: The Complete Guide

When Rolex introduced its Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller watch at Watches & Wonders 2025, some longtime fans of the brand experienced a bit of déja vu for a Rolex watch - and a Rolex era - that have been largely consigned to the mists of history. Why? Because the Land-Dweller's angular case and integrated-bracelet design reminded many enthusiasts of the Oysterquartz models introduced during the early heyday of quartz watches in the 1970s. That's correct: once upon a time, Rolex, one of the undisputed champions of luxury watches with mechanical movements, jumped on board the Quartz Revolution bandwagon and not only produced its own in-house quartz calibers but marketed the watches that housed them as the pinnacle of the Crown's timepiece portfolio at the time. Here is everything you need to know about the Rolex Oysterquartz and its quirky but significant place in horological history.  Rolex Oysterquartz: The Early Days Of Electric Watches The wristwatch industry, like any other industry, is uber-competitive and every watchmaker wants to be the first to market with The Next Big Thing. In the 1950s and into the ‘60s, that Next Big Thing was a watch that could be powered by electricity. American companies like Hamilton, with the Ventura, and Bulova, with the Accutron, were among the pioneers, even though the movements that resulted from these early efforts proved to have difficulty maintaining reliability in mass production. The Japanese, particularly Seiko, took a diff...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 27000M Complicated Desk Clock SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 27000M Complicated Desk Apr 30, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 27000M Complicated Desk Clock

Patek Philippe’s Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27000M-001 is the biggest release of Watches & Wonders 2025, with a footprint of 164.6 by 125 mm, and rising to 76.73 mm at its apex. Priced at an even CHF1 million before taxes, the clock is powered by a key-wound, 31-day movement – incorporating a one-second remontoir d’egalite – housed in a wedge-shaped sterling silver cabinet, decorated with green flinqué enamel. Initial thoughts While we’ve seen desk and table clocks from others in the space, none have been as incredibly high-effort as this. Patek Philippe claims the 912-part shaped caliber took seven years of development, including nine patent applications. That’s quite the investment in a product with limited mainstream appeal, and I find it reassuring that Patek Philippe is still willing to make those investments. The enamel work is enchanting and has precedent in early 20th-century silver travel clocks retailed by Cartier, among others. I could take or leave the baroque styling, but the dial and hidden “dashboard” look fantastic. I hope Patek Philippe will offer this movement in other styles down the road. If you’ve never experienced a key-winding watch or clock, it’s quite satisfying; I wouldn’t call it fun, but it’s not something you’re likely to get sick of. It’s an experience you can’t get with Patek Philippe’s other current production clocks, which use an electric motor to wind the movement without need of human intervention. The b...

[VIDEO] Christopher Ward Changes the Game, Again - C12 Loco Review with Video Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Changes Apr 23, 2025

[VIDEO] Christopher Ward Changes the Game, Again - C12 Loco Review with Video

Is it too dramatic to say that just about three years ago, in November of 2022, Christopher Ward changed the watch industry as we knew it? Perhaps. But what fun is a watch review without some hyperbole? And frankly, it’s not a far-off statement either. I’m talking, of course, about the launch of the C1 Bel Canto. Not only did that watch set Christopher Ward on a new trajectory as a brand, but it also proved what smaller independent brands were capable of. Since then, we’ve seen a surge of ingenuity in the industry. But I’m burying the lede. It’s 2025, and Christopher Ward has done it again with the launch of the C12 Loco: a full-fledged vision of independent watchmaking that, perhaps most impressively, maintains the brand’s value-focused ethos. But to fully appreciate the C12 Loco, we must rewind to 2014. That’s when Christopher Ward did the unthinkable and received little to no attention for it: they launched an in-house movement called the SH21. Back then, “in-house” was a term that got thrown around a lot. It was always a big deal when a brand announced an “in-house” movement. But, it was the territory of the very large or the very high-end, and the idea that smaller, more accessible independents could produce an in-house caliber was almost absurd. When a brand announced an in-house movement, everyone took notice, and sometimes brands were called out for using the term too loosely (including other British brands…). So, when the SH21 debuted, it w...

Christopher Ward C12 Loco Review Teddy Baldassarre
Christopher Ward C12 Loco Review Last Apr 23, 2025

Christopher Ward C12 Loco Review

Last year, Christopher Ward followed up on its hugely popular C2 Bel Canto with an Act II version, featuring a new dial texture. When it was released, I commented on how difficult sequels can be when the original captured lightning in a bottle, and pondered what it might take for the brand to accomplish such a feat again. This week, we’re getting an answer to that with the release of the new C12 Loco, featuring Christopher Ward’s second in-house movement, the CW-003. The C12 Loco is much more than that, though. Once again, Christopher Ward has taken inspiration from far more exotic realms, and has brought a custom-designed free-sprung balance to the dial side, floating underneath the hour and minute display.  The Christopher Ward C12 uses the same twelve-sided, integrated case as The Twelve collection that was introduced back in 2023. The C12 Loco uses a 41mm steel case, much the same as the Twelve X, though now it clocks in at 13.7mm in thickness - so, while it’s large, it should still be perfectly manageable on the wrist. This is an integrated case, so the length is about the same as the width, with the ends of the case angling downward to meet the strap or bracelet end link. It’s also worth noting that the box crystal accounts for a good bit of that thickness. The midcase section is just 9.75mm in thickness.  It’s everything between that span that serves as the star of the show here. The CW-003 caliber uses twin mainspring barrels to provide a healthy 144 ...

Bell & Ross Celebrates the 20th Anniversary of the BR-03 with New Skeleton Models Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Celebrates Apr 15, 2025

Bell & Ross Celebrates the 20th Anniversary of the BR-03 with New Skeleton Models

It’s a common refrain here at Worn & Wound: every year is an anniversary. Like death, taxes, and Photoshop renders of what collectors predict the new Rolex will look like, the celebration of anniversaries in the watch industry is a certainty. We’re not complaining. An anniversary of an important watch or collection is a great time to take stock, and there have certainly been plenty of desirable releases over the years centered around big anniversaries. This year, Bell & Ross is celebrating 20 years of the BR-03 collection, their iconic square watch that has become the “face” of the brand over the past two decades.  The celebration begins with the new BR-03 Skeleton, a collection of three watches that capitalizes on a big trend across all sectors of watchmaking while removing the BR-03 from its aviation themed roots, at least a little bit. Bell & Ross has been making skeletonized watches for years (often as part of their Skull series), and these watches highlight their proficiency in that area, and also take advantage of their creativity with lume.  The new BR-03 Skeleton is available in three variants: Black Ceramic, Grey Steel, and Lum Ceramic. All three feature 41mm cases and a new movement, the BR-CAL.328, designed specifically for these watches. While the specs of the caliber are in line with previous time only movements used in recent BR-03 releases (like those, it has a 54 hour power reserve) its architecture has been adjusted, highlighting an “X” motif...

First Impressions of the New A. Lange & Söhne Novelties Worn & Wound
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 9, 2025

First Impressions of the New A. Lange & Söhne Novelties

A. Lange & Söhne never does half-measures, especially at Watches & Wonders. For 2025, they announced three new models, but a total of four watches: the Saxonia Minute Repeater Perpetual, the Honey Gold Odysseus, and the 1815 in 34mm in rose and white gold. So, one super complicated piece with a ton of features. One rare piece in an exceptional presentation. And two sublimely proportioned everyday watches (in ALS terms). While all were exceptional, the latter of the three left the biggest impression, despite being the smallest in stature.  With a name like Minute Repeater Perpetual, there’s not much mystery about what this watch does, but in true Lange fashion, it’s the elegance with which it does it that’s so special. And, naturally, we have to start with movement. The new caliber L122.2 consists of 640 parts and is meticulously finished to the standards one expects from Lange. In somewhat of a departure from their norm, the untreated Glashütte ¾ plate features a frosted finish instead of Glashütte ribbing. Though the result might appear more straightforward, we were told it makes assembly more complicated, and the resulting even surface puts more attention on the governor, black polished hammers, and encircling gongs, not to mention the free-hand engraved balance cock. It does not just look impressive, however, as there are some clever mechanical tricks at play, too, namely regarding the repeater. The typical sequence of chimes includes first single chimes per ...