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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

A Flurry Of Faces: Is Tudor Forcing Its Hand With Too Many Limited And Special Editions? Fratello
Tudor Forcing May 24, 2024

A Flurry Of Faces: Is Tudor Forcing Its Hand With Too Many Limited And Special Editions?

Last week, Tudor released a 1,908-piece limited run of Black Bay 58 watches with a special dial to celebrate Inter Milan winning the Italian Serie A football league. Other recent Tudor specials were two Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition” timepieces. And there’s also the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” made for the Tudor […] Visit A Flurry Of Faces: Is Tudor Forcing Its Hand With Too Many Limited And Special Editions? to read the full article.

Weekend Contemplation: The Watch Market Isn’t In Crisis, But How Should We Describe Its Current State? Fratello
Rolex Daytona was worth just May 11, 2024

Weekend Contemplation: The Watch Market Isn’t In Crisis, But How Should We Describe Its Current State?

In March 2022, the global watch market was at an all-time high. A stainless steel Rolex Daytona was worth just over €50,000, any new limited-edition watch would sell out in a matter of minutes, and sites like Fratello attracted a lot of new readers. Since then, things have cooled down substantially. According to Chrono24, that […] Visit Weekend Contemplation: The Watch Market Isn’t In Crisis, But How Should We Describe Its Current State? to read the full article.

Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me: Spec Snobbery Worn & Wound
Mar 27, 2024

Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me: Spec Snobbery

If I were to make a gross oversimplification of watches, I’d say they are about three things: provenance, design and specs. The first two are relatively straightforward: Who made a watch, and what does it look like? There are endless rabbit holes to go down with each, and fellow enthusiasts welcome anyone looking to join the conversations. That’s good news for those of us that long ago lost the privilege to ramble about Hans Wilsdorf at the dinner table, and have a limited number of times we can say “concentric circles” before our non-watch friends tune out. But in my initial years of collecting, I shied away from conversations of provenance and design, instead favoring talk of specs. Above all else, specs were what sold me. It’s a trend I’ve noticed fellow enthusiasts follow, which makes sense. Specs are tangible. They are indisputable facts on paper that immediately give an idea of how a watch will wear based on its dimensions, what its beat rate will be, how much abuse its crystal can take, and at what unnecessary depth of water it could out-live its wearer. With some welcome influence from my favorite YouTube reviewers, it was easy as a new collector to discern what specs were considered acceptable by the larger enthusiast community. While we may never agree on which case diameter constitutes the ideal “sweet spot” (but we all know it’s 36-38mm) or what movement is best, one specification seemed to have near universal support in the comment sections: ...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Omega Mar 17, 2024

A Week in Watches ep. 76: British Watchmakers’ Day 2024 (but First Some Omega and Seiko)

Welcome to episode 76 of A Week in Watches. As said in the last episode, much of the next episode, which is this episode, will be dedicated to the British Watchmaker’s Day. An event that took place on Saturday, March 9th, in London, the British Watchmaker’s Day hosted over 40 brands and 1,000 guests for a very successful first go. But before we go over that, we first have to look at a couple of new releases from Omega and Seiko. This episode is sponsored by William Wood and their newly released Fire Exit Watch. The watch features a Swiss-made Sellita SW220 day date movement, a green glow, and a day complication with seven illustrated days of the week featuring multiple fun references to the fire exit man icon. Click here to learn how William Wood expanded their firefighter-heritage brand with this creative and colorful watch. The post A Week in Watches ep. 76: British Watchmakers’ Day 2024 (but First Some Omega and Seiko) appeared first on Worn & Wound.

A Watch Writer Creates His Ultimate Go Anywhere, Do Anything Watch with the VPC Type37HW Worn & Wound
VPC Type37HW VPC Mar 14, 2024

A Watch Writer Creates His Ultimate Go Anywhere, Do Anything Watch with the VPC Type37HW

VPC is a new brand founded by Thomas van Straaten, who may be familiar to some readers as a longtime writer at Fratello. The first watch from his new endeavor, the Type37HW, feels very much like the type of thing that someone fully engaged in this community would bring to life as a passion project. It has many of the hallmarks of an enthusiast focused watch, with lots of little details that get people in the business of writing about these things excited. Most of all, it feels foundational, like the beginning of a platform for future expansion. If there’s one thing watch writers can’t abide, it’s a watch that feels like a one off, vanity project, and, unsurprisingly, VPC doesn’t even have a whiff of that sentiment.  The VPC acronym that gives the brand its name stands for “Venustas Per Constantiam,” which equates to “charm through restraint,” and if you look at the overall presentation of the Type37HW you can really feel the restraint. The watch is sober but doesn’t feel boring, and each individual component part seems to be well considered and thought through. Whether you like the design or not is of course subjective, but I don’t think anyone could reasonably argue that the watch doesn’t have a coherent aesthetic.  The broad conceit here is that the Type37HW is a “go anywhere, do anything” style watch, and the specs reflect that. It’s 37.5mm in diameter and measures 9.8mm tall (including the crystal). The stainless steel case and bracelet ha...

Our Valentine’s Day Sale: Gear They’ll Love Worn & Wound
Feb 9, 2024

Our Valentine’s Day Sale: Gear They’ll Love

Love is in the air. But there’s another pleasant aroma, a sweet fragrance of fiscal responsibility and savings. That’s right, friends, the Windup Watch Shop is proud to present this year’s Valentine’s Day Sale, which begins February 9th and runs through February 15th (11:59 PM ET) for all you procrastinators. Save up to 15% on select items and take a look all throughout the shop as deals abound in every corner. To help you get started, here are just a few of the many deals waiting to be found and loved. Take advantage of this special sale and score some brownie points with your Valentine this year. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. Love is in the air. But there’s another pleasant aroma, a sweet fragrance of fiscal responsibility and savings. That’s right, friends, the Windup Watch Shop is proud to present this year’s Valentine’s Day Sale, which begins February 9th and runs through February 15th (11:59 PM ET) for all you procrastinators. Save up to 15% on select items and take a look all throughout the shop as deals abound in every corner. To help you get started, here are just a few of the many deals waiting to be found and loved. Take advantage of this special sale and score some brownie points with your Valentine this year. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The post Our Valentine’s Day Sale: Gear They’ll Love appeared f...

The three watches D.C. wore most in 2023 – Omega, Casio, Serica Time+Tide
Serica It’s time again Dec 30, 2023

The three watches D.C. wore most in 2023 – Omega, Casio, Serica

It’s time again to look back on The Year That Was, and take a moment to reflect upon the bastions of my personal watch rotation. Some pieces are purely sentimental: a thread connecting the past, a meaningful gift from a loved one, or a personal trophy marking a significant life event. Others are dispassionately pragmatic: … ContinuedThe post The three watches D.C. wore most in 2023 – Omega, Casio, Serica appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

It’s M.A.D. 1 Raffle Time Again, Now with a New Green Version Worn & Wound
MB&F; Sep 15, 2023

It’s M.A.D. 1 Raffle Time Again, Now with a New Green Version

If you’ve been trying to score a M.A.D. 1 – the absolutely insane, value oriented limited edition watch that most certainly is not an MB&F; but is conceived by many of the same people – you’re in luck. Max Busser, the “MB” of MB&F;, has announced that a new version of the M.A.D. 1 is soon to be released, this time in green, with options to purchase still determined by a raffle. Ever since the original M.A.D. 1 appeared in the spring of 2022, it’s been an object of considerable fascination for the many admirers of MB&F; who simply can’t afford a watch with a six figure price tag. The conceit of the M.A.D. 1 is that it offers a whole lot of the imagination and playful whimsy of an MB&F; piece, but with an off-the-shelf movement (heavily modified) in an unusual case for not a whole lot of money. Their scarcity, and the sheer visual impression these watches leave, has made them an enduring Instagram hit with a certain type of enthusiast.  The new M.A.D. 1 is effectively the same watch as the previous version, but with bright green accents instead of red. For those who might be brand new to the concept, a quick overview of how thing works might be in order. The heart of the M.A.D. 1 is a simple Miyota automatic caliber that has been inverted, so the back of the movement points up, where you’d normally find a dial. But there is no dial – just a rapidly spinning, triple blade, tungstend/titanium rotor, which we suspect is the single most heavily modified piece of...

We’re Living in a Society: Don’t Do This When Buying a Watch Worn & Wound
Aug 10, 2023

We’re Living in a Society: Don’t Do This When Buying a Watch

If you’re a regular reader of this website, you know that from time to time I find myself inspired to write about the state of the watch collecting community. Like all of you, I’m just a normal guy, who sometimes decides that it’s time to send a watch to a new home, and it’s off to the forums I go, with terribly lit photos and hopes of a quick transaction that doesn’t end in some kind of postal fraud incident. In the years I’ve been doing this, I’m happy to say that I’ve had many great experiences selling watches to strangers. But lately…lately, eh, I dunno. It kind of feels like things are going off the rails a little bit, doesn’t it? I’ve sold a few watches in the last couple of months, and, with apologies to @vandelayhouseofhorology, I’ve never felt more like George Costanza in that Chinese restaurant, reminding his fellow patrons that we’re living in a society. We’re supposed to act in a civilized way!  Maybe it’s just a run of bad luck, or perhaps karmic retribution for youthful indiscretions that have come back to bite me, but it seems like poor, sketchy, or downright inappropriate behavior is on the rise in the public watch trading forums. I’ve never been one to worry too much about getting scammed, or even having my time wasted, but in the current climate, it seems like you have your guard way, way up.  Before I go any further, I’ll say at the outset that in spite of some, let’s call them troubling, experiences trying to sell a...

The Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze Brown is another vintage-inspired hit for a price that’s too good to be true Time+Tide
Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze Brown Apr 25, 2023

The Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze Brown is another vintage-inspired hit for a price that’s too good to be true

Back in 3500 BC, in what I can only imagine was a dusty cave, a gentleman with a big forehead and a loincloth built a fire in a circle of rocks. Seems like that would be a regular occurrence back then, right? You’ve got to warm up the cave for the kids, after all. Well, … ContinuedThe post The Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze Brown is another vintage-inspired hit for a price that’s too good to be true appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The New TAG Heuer Carrera “Glassbox”. Is This The Chronograph We Didn’t Know We Needed? WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera “Glassbox” Apr 18, 2023

The New TAG Heuer Carrera “Glassbox”. Is This The Chronograph We Didn’t Know We Needed?

TAG Heuer is celebrating the Carrera’s 60th Birthday this year, and doing so, has released the vintage inspired 39mm “Glassbox” Carrera Chronograph at Watches and Wonders. I had the pleasure of going hands on with the watches prior to it’s release, and was quietly impressed! What We Like Great styling and designComfortable and easy to wearSizing hits the mark What We Don’t Like Leather strap could use some additional styling cuesLack of lume on the dialMovement finishing is a step up from the old, but could be better given the price point Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 9/10Build Quality: 8/10 No matter what you think about TAG Heuer, it’s hard to argue that they are one of the most recognised luxury watch brands in the world. Synonymous with motorsport, TAG Heuer have helped to shape the modern day chronograph, evolving the Carrera over the six decades since Jack Heuer designed and produced the very first Carrera in 1963. For those keeping track, I was not the biggest fan of TAG Heuer, and wasn’t until I reviewed the 60th Anniversary Edition TAG Heuer Autavia Flyback Chronograph (which you can check out here) around 12 months ago that I started to change my mind. The all new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 39mm “Glassbox” TAG Heuer are having a renaissance of sorts. They are revisiting their roots, heading back to the days of Jack Heuer and what helped to make them the brand they are today. And the new Carrera Chronogra...

A New 3D-Printed Carbon Fiber Composite Case and an Upgraded Mechanical Altimeter Takes The Oris ProPilot Altimeter to Greater Heights Worn & Wound
Oris ProPilot Altimeter Mar 30, 2023

A New 3D-Printed Carbon Fiber Composite Case and an Upgraded Mechanical Altimeter Takes The Oris ProPilot Altimeter to Greater Heights

I think it’s safe to say that we’re past the initial shock and awe moments from the first couple of days of Watches & Wonders. As we all digest the barrage of releases, the next day or so is my favorite because now we really get to sift through each and every novelty to discover the watches that may have been overshadowed by the preliminary excitement. To look past the first glass case surrounded by all the fancy lights and signage to find the brand’s deep cuts from this year’s showing. Oris came out of the Watches & Wonders gates in a playful way by featuring their ProPilot x Kermit Edition, but a more serious, utilitarian ProPilot that has legitimate expedition-watch chops has also garnered some of our attention. Compared to its ProPilot predecessor, it’s significantly lighter and capable of pushing to greater heights – it’s the new ProPilot Altimeter. The Oris ProPilot Altimeter confidently stands as the only wristwatch at Watches & Wonders, and the world, to utilize an integrated mechanical altimeter. By way of some ingenious engineering and a series of numerals and markers located within the segmented dial cut-outs, as well as a metric scale (either feet or meters depending on the reference you opt for) on the rehaut, an accurate reading of your current altitude can be read. The crown at 4 o’clock signed with an “ALT SET” wordmark manages the entire altimeter system. Unscrewing the crown activates the altimeter by allowing air to enter the case. On...

The Chopard IMPERIALE delivers an exquisite dial that you won’t forget Time+Tide
Chopard IMPERIALE delivers Mar 27, 2023

The Chopard IMPERIALE delivers an exquisite dial that you won’t forget

This new addition to the Chopard IMPERIALE collection pays tribute to an Egyptian legend. The lotus flower signifies the sun, and has inspired the day/night indicator dial. The calibre 96.30-L is an in-house marvel, featuring a healthy power reserve and micro-rotor. It’s hard to invalidate diamond-set watches when artisans like Chopard bring in new levels … ContinuedThe post The Chopard IMPERIALE delivers an exquisite dial that you won’t forget appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

High-end and high-tech GMT duo: The Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion SBGC253 and Yukigesho SBGJ271 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion SBGC253 Feb 15, 2023

High-end and high-tech GMT duo: The Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion SBGC253 and Yukigesho SBGJ271

Another week, another couple of impressively featured Grand Seiko releases. Today’s offerings include an until-now limited edition-only chronograph and an addition to the Elegance GMT collection. The former, taking inspiration from the mighty lion emblazoned on Grand Seiko’s logo, is the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC253, dubbed the Tokyo Lion, extending the large feline inspiration … ContinuedThe post High-end and high-tech GMT duo: The Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion SBGC253 and Yukigesho SBGJ271 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why do Watches Use Sapphire Crystals? A Brief History and a Few Altern Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 12, 2022

Why do Watches Use Sapphire Crystals? A Brief History and a Few Altern

Watches differ greatly in their sizes, designs, capabilities, straps and bracelets, and even in the materials used to make their cases. The one element that nearly always seems to be present when we peruse watches’ specifications is the use of sapphire for the crystal (for the newest of newbies, that’s the round, glass window over the dial). Over a certain “luxury” price point, a sapphire crystal is not even seen as a benefit but the baseline standard, like tempered laminated glass in a car windshield. How did sapphire come to play this key supporting role in watch manufacturing, and what did watchmakers use before it came along? For that matter, what differentiates different types of sapphire crystals from each other? Which materials other than sapphire are still being used in the watch industry, and why? And is sapphire being used for anything else in horological circles besides crystals? What are the properties of sapphire? Believe it or not, that little lens over the dial of your watch is made from one of the hardest substances on Earth. It is one of two precious gemstones from the mineral variety corundum, the other being ruby. Corundum, a crystallized aluminum oxide, is clear in its purest state; sapphires and rubies receive their blue and red colors, respectively from impurities: traces of titanium, and iron in the former, and of chromium in the latter. Sapphire (above) has a ratio of 9 on the Mohs Hardness scale. Among minerals, only moissanite, a naturally...

INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pandial LE.3 DD DLC Chronometer Time+Tide
Nov 18, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pandial LE.3 DD DLC Chronometer

It’s easy for panda-dialled chronographs to be pigeonholed into a specific look, or to draw comparisons with other watches that have popularised the colour scheme. Brellum’s latest addition to their Pandial line completely sidesteps this issue with a fairly unique concept - retaining the iconic panda style within a completely blacked-out case and bracelet coated … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pandial LE.3 DD DLC Chronometer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Introduces the Reine de Naples 8918 in Black Enamel SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Oct 13, 2022

Breguet Introduces the Reine de Naples 8918 in Black Enamel

Inspired by a long-lost wristwatch saying to 1812 that might have been the first-ever wristwatch, the Reine de Naples is Breguet’s signature watch for ladies. Quirky in form but elegant, the model is available in numerous iterations, but the latest is unusually stark but no less graceful: the Reine de Naples 8918 with a glossy black enamel dial. Like the rest of the line, the new 8918 has its roots in the 19th century. Invented as jewellery that happened to tell the time, wristwatches of the period were fashionable accessories. One of the earliest known examples was an egg-shaped bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, the younger sister of Napoleon and the Queen of Naples – reine de Naples in French. Initial thoughts Perhaps one of the most distinctive ladies’ watches on the market today, the Reine de Naples gets less attention than it deserves for a variety of reasons, including Breguet’s restrained marketing and the fact that brands like Cartier have more famous form watches. But the history and visual appeal of the Reine de Naples, as well as Breguet’s overall quality, makes it noteworthy. The 8918 in black enamel preserves the essence of the model, but it instantly stands out for its high-contrast, monochromatic palette. But it’s not merely a pretty face, for the execution is also appealing since it’s fired enamel in black, an uncommon colour for the material. Grand feu enamel dials are relatively uncommon in ladies’ watches, so B...