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Results for Côtes de Genève

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Côtes de Genève

Parallel-striped decoration on bridges and rotors; the Swiss (or Glashütte) finishing marker.
In Depth: Louis Cottier’s Legacy SJX Watches
Aug 10, 2026

In Depth: Louis Cottier’s Legacy

Sometime around 1949, in a workshop above a stationer’s shop in Carouge, Louis Cottier built a worldtime watch out of a piece of cardboard. Movado had asked him to fit their famous Ermeto — a small purse-watch that was wound by opening and closing its case — with a device to read the hour in any country. What Cottier delivered was a piece of card: two columns listing the 12 antipodal city pairs, with a sliding paper scale of hours. Open the case, slide the scale, read New York against Rome. It was ingenious to a fault. Movado’s verdict was blunt, and fair: it ignored the running of the watch entirely and “…could just as well be made on an address-book or a diary,” they wrote on February 4, 1950. The brand concluded that “Nobody would want to carry such a piece.” The 1949 World Time cardboard maquette proposed to Movado. Image – SJX composite/Musée d’art et d’histoire de Genève The cardboard maquette survives, in an archive of some 260 items — letters, patents, notebooks, photographs, a school exercise book, a golf-scoring mechanism — that comprise the most complete record we have of the man the watch world calls the father of the worldtimer. But the story revealed by this evidence is more nuanced than Cottier’s reputation suggests. The legend, briefly The received Louis Cottier is easy to summarise, because everyone summarises him the same way. He was born in Carouge in 1894, and trained in Geneva. After losing his job in the aftermath of th...

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SJX Podcast: Independent Watchmaking Retrospective SJX Watches
Franck Muller Aug 10, 2026

SJX Podcast: Independent Watchmaking Retrospective

Ahead of Geneva Watch Days — which will feature 71 brands, many of them independent — episode 49 of the SJX Podcast looks back at how independent watchmaking became the phenomenon it is today. SJX and Brandon trace its evolution from 1970s pioneers like George Daniels and François-Paul Journe through the arrival of Daniel Roth, Philippe Dufour, and Franck Muller. The conversation also examines the avant-garde boom of the 2000s, the renewed emphasis on traditional finishing, and the role of digital photography and social media in transforming a solitary pursuit into a global collecting community. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: Ideal Watch Size Survey, Matador’s Reinvention, and Myspace’s Return Worn & Wound
Aug 8, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Ideal Watch Size Survey, Matador’s Reinvention, and Myspace’s Return

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Mark Cho’s Ideal Watch Size Survey is Back Co-founder of The Armoury and permanent resident on my own inspiration board, Mark Cho has once again put out his Ideal Watch Size Survey to the masses. For those unfamiliar, Cho first ran the survey from 2018 to 2021, asking participants about their actual wrist size, how they perceived their wrist size, and what they considered the ideal size for a watch. From this data, Cho and others, including ourselves, were able to glean information about industry trends, but also how those trends seem to affect the way we look at our own bodies. In fact, with nearly 1,000 respondents in the original survey, a significant percentage of people viewed their wrists as smaller than average, while Cho’s findings also pointed toward a growing interest in watches around the 37 to 39mm range (keep in mind, this was a time of Big Watch Supremacy in the marketplace). As with any data set, one can’t always say, “X equals Y,” but there is an interesting correlation (or is it causation? I always forget from my Statistics class) between what the industry makes, what collectors buy, and what we eventually convince ourselves we can wear. With...

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Dressing Down Your Rolex: Why Taking It Off The Bracelet Can Be A Good Idea Fratello
Rolex Why Taking It Off Aug 8, 2026

Dressing Down Your Rolex: Why Taking It Off The Bracelet Can Be A Good Idea

There’s a particular kind of tunnel vision that sets in around steel sports Rolexes. You picture a Submariner, and the mental image arrives fully assembled: black bezel, black dial, and, welded to it, as if it were cast in one piece, an Oyster bracelet. It’s the same with a GMT-Master, Datejust, Sea-Dweller… In fact, it’s […] Visit Dressing Down Your Rolex: Why Taking It Off The Bracelet Can Be A Good Idea to read the full article.

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Seiko Celebrates Honda’s Quirky Bike with 5 Sports Motocompo SJX Watches
Seiko Celebrates Honda’s Quirky Bike Aug 7, 2026

Seiko Celebrates Honda’s Quirky Bike with 5 Sports Motocompo

Compact, affordable Japanese icons collide in the Seiko 5 Sports Motocompo Limited Edition ref. HDB010, a collaboration with Honda that celebrates a collectable and compact 1980s motorbike. It recreates the Motocompo’s Daisy Yellow paint, retro typography, and even its packaging. And at 36.4 mm in diameter, it too can fit in the back of the Honda Jazz. Initial thoughts The Honda Motocompo was an adorable folding scooter briefly offered as an option on the Honda Jazz/City during the early 1980s. When folded up, it was small enough to squeeze into the back of a subcompact car, or even an Acura NSX. Its retro styling is back in fashion, and low production numbers — due to weak sales — make it quite collectable today. Honda offered the Motocompo in three colors: Caribbean Red, Shetland White, and the Daisy Yellow you see here. Image – Honda Motor Company I find the colour choice odd, as to me Honda means red — from the NSX to the brand’s motorcycles. “Honda Red” is the brand’s corporate colour, after all. If this colourway makes me think of anything, it’s Kill Bill: Volume 1. The case back crystal, however, is classic Honda red, concealing the industrially finished workhorse cal. 4R36. Colour aside, the Honda wordmark is appealingly subtle, and the stylised “automatic” text at six, which echoes the original Motocompo branding, turns an otherwise unnecessary label into a defining element of the design. Bluntly speaking, Seiko typography fell off a cliff ...

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Bring a Loupe: A Patek Phillipe 5000R, A Seiko 7018-8000, Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar Moonphase Meteorite, And Much More Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar Moonphase Meteorite Aug 7, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Patek Phillipe 5000R, A Seiko 7018-8000, Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar Moonphase Meteorite, And Much More

Welcome to the dregs and dog days of summer, and happy Friday again. I was emailing someone in Germany who informed me she'd be out of contact until her company reopened—they shut down for the first three weeks of August—and I desperately wish that idea had taken hold worldwide. Especially for those of us north of the equator, these weeks feel like they'd be best spent lounging, taking a sort of seasonal siesta, reading books (the new Tana French is phenomenal) and catching up on shows and movies (Widow's Bay, good lord). Scorekeeping last week's picks: the Wittnauer 235T ends tomorrow, the 8th, and is at $800 at the time of writing, the Blancpain sold for €20,000, and the Eberhard and Cleto Munari are both still available. Strays Photo courtesy of Tropical Watch. My apologies, Baller, for not including this Harwood automatic from the 1920s in last week's listing. While it's a tidy, tiny 30mm, Harwoods are worth paying attention to because they're some of the first automatic watches ever (Leroy beat them, apparently, as being the very first), and you'll note the thing's crownless as well, because the unmarked bezel's not a timing bezel, it's how the time was set. Congrats to whoever snagged it. If you're also more than a little ensorcelled by asymmetric watches, and this Cartier ticks all sorts of boxes (other than all the diamonds). At some point I'll find a Smiths worth giving full coverage to, but until then, this Smiths Imperial—part of a three-watch lot—is w...

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Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [July 2026] Hodinkee
Christopher Ward C60 Trident GMT 300 Aug 7, 2026

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [July 2026]

Another Hodinkee Happy Hour, another evening well spent. Last week, we returned to the Watches of Switzerland boutique in SoHo for our monthly community meetup. Some attendees were meeting for the first time, while others picked up right where they left off. Before long, the room was buzzing with conversation over local beers from our friends at Grotta and slices from Nolita's Upside Pizza. As the night unfolded, attendees passed their personal watches around the room while sharing fond stories about them. From vintage gems to new releases like the DOXA SUB Army 200T for Hodinkee Limited Edition, there were more than enough interesting watches to get your hands on and talk about. Scroll through the photos below for a recap of the night and watches that made the rounds. If you joined us, thank you for coming. If not, we're hosting the next one at the end of August. Be the first to know when RSVPs open by following the Hodinkee Instagram! DOXA SUB Army 200T for Hodinkee Limited Edition.  Right, Deputy Editor Tim Jeffreys wearing the DOXA SUB Army 200T. A first-generation A. Lange & Söhne Datograph, on Wellendorf bracelet, and an A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph. A Grand Seiko Elegance Collection "Skyflake" and a Christopher Ward C60 Trident GMT 300. The CWC x The Grey Nato Limited Edition. A vintage Rolex GMT Master "Pepsi."  Movado Calendograf with a 14k yellow gold case. Head of Video David Aujero test driving the platinum A. Lange & Söhne Datograph. A Rolex GMT-...

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The Top 5 Current Seiko Prospex Divers Fratello
Seiko Prospex Divers Another Friday Aug 7, 2026

The Top 5 Current Seiko Prospex Divers

Another Friday, another list! This week, we pick our five favorite Seiko Prospex dive watches. Following yesterday’s article on the current Prospex collection, we wanted to highlight our favorite divers from it. As most of you will know, Seiko offers a wide range of Prospex divers at different price points. It starts at around €500 […] Visit The Top 5 Current Seiko Prospex Divers to read the full article.

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Portrait - The Philosophy and Influences of Bernhard Lederer; Watchmaker, Researcher, Inventor Monochrome
Aug 7, 2026

Portrait - The Philosophy and Influences of Bernhard Lederer; Watchmaker, Researcher, Inventor

For more than four decades, Bernhard Lederer has built a reputation on tangible achievements: remarkable timepieces, original escapements, and chronometric innovations. Yet the watches themselves reveal only part of the story. Behind each creation lies a way of thinking that has evolved over a lifetime devoted to independent watchmaking. Rather than retracing milestones or celebrating […]

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Video: The Best Seiko Diver Just Got Better! Fratello
Seiko Diver Just Got Better! Aug 7, 2026

Video: The Best Seiko Diver Just Got Better!

I’ve owned my Seiko Marinemaster SBDX001 for over ten years, and it impresses me as much today as it did back in 2015. However, the original Marinemaster had some “flaws.” Such as the Hardlex crystal, steel bezel insert, and flimsy-feeling clasp and diving extension. Seiko released many references after the SBDX001, but not all of […] Visit Video: The Best Seiko Diver Just Got Better! to read the full article.

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Hands On: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral SJX Watches
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral Aug 7, 2026

Hands On: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral

The Tourbillon Sidéral debuted last year to mark Breguet’s 250th anniversary. This year, the brand is celebrating the 225th anniversary of its founder’s best-known achievement: the tourbillon. For this occasion, Breguet released a quartet of new references, among them the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral ref. 7255PT, a 50-piece limited edition in platinum, once again featuring an in-house aventurine enamel dial. Initial thoughts Despite being the brand’s first-ever flying tourbillon, the Tourbillon Sidéral feels somewhat familiar. That’s because its cal. 187M1 is derived from the brand’s original wristwatch tourbillon movement, the cal. 558, released in 1989. That explains the familiar off-centre dial arrangement and full-plate architecture visible through the case back. Within this lineage, the Tourbillon Sidéral can be considered the spiritual heir and technical successor to the Classique Tourbillon Messidor 5335 released 2007, a watch that seemed to suspend its tourbillon in mid-air. In fact, this mystery tourbillon was driven by a sapphire crystal drive wheel, and its upper pivot was supported by a sapphire crystal bridge. The Tourbillon Sidéral elevates this concept to its natural conclusion, dispensing with the upper support bridge entirely, resulting in a true flying tourbillon. Unfortunately, the two-armed tourbillon cage itself spans almost the entire width of the opening, and at times resembles an upper support bridge, at least until the eye registers ...

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The Lightweight Casio F-91WF Watch on Cloth-Strap WatchRider
Casio F-91WF Watch Aug 7, 2026

The Lightweight Casio F-91WF Watch on Cloth-Strap

The Casio F-91W does not need a complicated introduction. It is one of the simplest digital watches you can buy and one of the easiest to recognise. The new F-91WF collection keeps that familiar formula but changes the part that has the greatest effect on comfort and character: the strap. Instead of the usual resin band, each watch comes with a lightweight cloth strap made from recycled PET. There are three models in the collection. The F-91WF-1A is black, the F-91WF-2A is navy blue and the F-91WF-3A is olive green. The case colour is matched to the strap on each version, so none of them looks like an ordinary F-91W with a random replacement strap. They feel like a complete collection with three clear personalities. Why the F-91WF is more than a strap change The cloth strap is the main news but it is not only a visual detail. Casio describes it as lightweight, comfortable, resistant to scratches and resistant to stains. It should also feel less rigid than a resin strap, especially during hot weather or when the watch is worn for a full day. Its recycled PET material gives the range a practical environmental benefit without changing the affordable and uncomplicated nature of the F-91W. The strap fits wrists from 145 to 215mm. That broad range matters because the case itself is very compact. It measures 38.2mm from top to bottom, 35.2mm across and only 8.5mm thick. Each version weighs just 21 grams. On the wrist it should almost disappear, which remains one of the strongest ...

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Feel The Power! The Newly Refreshed Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve Fratello
Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Aug 6, 2026

Feel The Power! The Newly Refreshed Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve

When it comes to the Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve, three years are important: 1954, 1959, and 2024. 1954 marks the year of the Conquest collection’s birth, 1959 is the year in which the first Conquest with a central power reserve indicator debuted, and 2024 marks the 70th anniversary of the Conquest collection. This […] Visit Feel The Power! The Newly Refreshed Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve to read the full article.

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Timex 1976 Lexington Reissue Inspired Is a Sharp $149 Steel Cartier Tank Alternative WatchRider
Cartier Tank Alternative Timex has Aug 6, 2026

Timex 1976 Lexington Reissue Inspired Is a Sharp $149 Steel Cartier Tank Alternative

Timex has taken the 1976 Lexington Reissue Inspired in the direction I wanted most: away from gold tone and into polished steel. The new TW2Y88200 keeps the compact rectangular shape, vertically brushed silver dial and Roman numerals of the earlier model, then adds metallic blue hands for a little contrast. It is currently listed as a $149 pre-order in the United States, which puts it firmly in the part of the market where a good design matters more than a prestigious logo. A rectangular watch with the right instincts I am a fan of rectangular watches because they make even a simple time-only watch feel considered. A round case can hide lazy proportions. A rectangle cannot. Every line is visible: the width, the length, the dial margins, the shape of the numerals and the relationship between case and strap. That is why the Cartier Tank remains such a powerful reference point, and why an affordable watch needs more than Roman numerals to feel convincing. Timex’s silver dial, blue hands and Roman numerals look clean. This Timex is not trying to be a counterfeit Tank. It earns its place as a nice alternative because it uses the same broad language of a slim rectangular case, an orderly dial and a leather strap, then keeps a personality of its own. If you enjoy this corner of watch design, I have also ranked the Cartier Tank alternatives that have stayed in my collection. The Lexington belongs in that conversation because it offers a clean steel option at a price that makes o...

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Hands-On: The Parmigiani Fleurier 30th Anniversary Carillon Tourbillon Hodinkee
Parmigiani Fleurier 30th Anniversary Carillon Tourbillon Aug 6, 2026

Hands-On: The Parmigiani Fleurier 30th Anniversary Carillon Tourbillon

Parmigiani Fleurier is a brand that has long embodied the idea of quiet luxury — or "private luxury," as Parmigiani CEO Guido Terrini asserts — frankly, sometimes to a fault. Many of its models pair spectacular watchmaking with a radically simplified design language, and the unique execution of a mechanical chronograph in the brand's Tonda Chronograph Mystérieux earlier this spring quite literally hides its mechanical extravagance as part of the complication. We'll have more on the Chronograph Mystérieux soon, but there's another watch launched this year that also feels unmistakably Parmigiani in execution—the Carillon Tourbillon 30th Anniversary in white gold. To celebrate the brand's 30th anniversary this year, Parmigiani Fleurier launched a trio of limited-edition Toric models at Watches and Wonders, featuring hand-hammered gold dials. The Toric Petite Seconde in platinum, a Toric Quantième Perpétuel in rose gold, and a Toric Chronographe Rattrapante in platinum all got the new dial treatment. Then, a few months after the show, Parmigiani dropped this whopper of a watch. Let's get the not-so-fun part out of the way first—the Carillon Tourbillon 30th Anniversary is limited to 5 pieces, and priced at CHF 490,000. To most collectors, it might be an unobtainium watch in so many aspects, but that doesn't stop this thing from being an absolute joy to see in person. At a glance, the overall silhouette of the Carillon Tourbillon fits into the classic Parmigiani play...

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Join Worn & Wound and Citizen Watch America for an Enthusiast Night in Salt Lake Worn & Wound
Accutron Frédérique Constant Aug 6, 2026

Join Worn & Wound and Citizen Watch America for an Enthusiast Night in Salt Lake

If you’ve ever wished you could spend an evening trying on watches that normally live behind glass—or are nearly impossible to find in the first place—we’ve got good news. On Thursday, August 27, Worn & Wound is teaming up with Citizen Watch America and our friends at Morgan Jewelers for a private enthusiast event in the Salt Lake Valley, and you’re invited. Private Event Thursday, August 27, 2026 6:30–8:30 PM MT Morgan Jewelers – Center of Brilliance 6102 S State St. Murray, UT 84107 This isn’t your average watch event. We’re bringing along a curated collection of standout pieces from Citizen, Bulova, Accutron, Frédérique Constant, and Alpina—including watches that are difficult to track down, rarely seen in person, or simply deserve far more wrist time than they usually get. Everything will be out and in the metal, ready for you to pick up, strap on, obsess about, and, if one steals your heart… it’s ready for purchase. A few of the amazing highlights include: Citizen Eco-Drive Photon – Reference BJ6560-53W This limited-edition celebrates the 50th anniversary of Eco-Drive technology has a silver-tone Super Titanium with a Duratect titanium carbide finish, with a worldwide limit of only 5,000 pieces. This will be a first-time opportunity to see this watch in-person as we’re receiving it early, specifically for this event. The Citizen Hand-dyed Indigo Washi Paper Dial Limited Edition – Reference AQ4090-08A This premium, high-accuracy Eco-Driv...

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GRØNE Introduces the Horologium, a New Limited Edition in “Quirky” and “Classic” Variants Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Aug 6, 2026

GRØNE Introduces the Horologium, a New Limited Edition in “Quirky” and “Classic” Variants

The GRØNE brand was introduced in the fall of 2024 at the absolute height of what I think can fairly be called the diffusion line craze. Between MB&F; with their M.A.D. Editions, Hajime Asaoka with Kurono Tokyo, and a host of others, high end watchmakers making accessible products in a well understood design language has been one of the more interesting developments across the independent watchmaking landscape over the past few years. The pace of these projects coming to market has slowed down somewhat, but that’s only helped us understand which ones are taken seriously as brands unto themselves by their founders and operators. GRØNE, I think, falls into the category of a brand that the founders, Bart and Tim Grönefeld, who also of course run their eponymously named brand, take seriously, or at least as a labor of love for their friends and family who are priced out of their largely handmade luxury watches.  The latest from GRØNE is a new three-hander in two variants, one meant to be serious and the other a little more playful. Both, I think, do a nice job of capturing the aesthetic cues of the Grönefeld brand in a way that previous efforts did not, while also acting as a showcase for the personalities of Bart and Tim.  The new Horologium is available in two variants: “Quirky” and “Classic”. The Quirky variant has a bright orange dial that points to the brand’s Dutch heritage with complementary baby blue accents. The Classic is a more refined salmon dial ...

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