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Gérald Genta's overnight 1971 sketch that invented the luxury steel sports watch.
Every AP Royal Oak: 5402ST A-Series, 14790, 15400, 15500, 15510, Jumbo 15202 / 16202, Chronograph 26240.
Quill & Pad
January 2025 saw straight declines across the board for the WatchCharts Overall Market Index which fell by -0.9%, as well as for the Rolex (-0.8%), Patek Philippe (-0.9%), and Audemars Piguet (-0.5%) indexes. These declines are comparable to what we observed a year ago in February 2024 and two years ago in February 2023.
Quill & Pad
With the Overall Market Index now at a two-and-a-half year low, the broad-based nature of the declines across the market continues: Rolex prices are now also at a 30-month low, while Patek Philippe has hit a 26-month low, and Audemars Piguet is at a 27-month low.
Worn & Wound
We live in a very good time for independent watchmaking. I know that may sound like an oddly specific metric by which to judge the world, but it’s true. There was a time, not so long ago, when an enthusiast watch collector looking for a highly complicated watch would have struggled to find what they were looking for outside the worlds of Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet. Perhaps the occasional Blancpain or Breguet might make a splash, but in the wake of the quartz crisis, the contracted watch industry focused on what it did best for the sake of its own survival, and we should all be grateful for that. Thankfully, in 2024, those days are gone, or at least mitigated. Since the mid-‘90s, the rise of independents has been one of the watch industry’s key narrative arcs, and, now, collectors looking to patronize the sort of small, unique, highly technical brands lost to them in the ‘70s and ‘80s are truly spoiled for choice. It is out of this transition that Laurent Ferrier has emerged not only as one of the watch world’s preeminent names but as a perfect encapsulation of how the industry has evolved over the last few decades. And there is no better watch to summarize that point than Laurent Ferrier’s new Classic Moon, introduced at Watches and Wonders earlier this year. But before getting to that watch, it’s worth spending a little bit of time thinking about Laurent Ferrier (the person, not the brand). Now, I’m not going to give you a complete accounting of t...
Monochrome
This was, by far, the most anticipated launch of the year, but also (and unsurprisingly) the most discussed and commented new release of 2024. In fact, I can’t recall witnessing such an amount of reactions from the watch community since the launch of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 collection – which, for several reasons, shouldn’t […]
Monochrome
Introduced in 2020, a year after the debut of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection, the Flying Tourbillon Chronograph’s combination of two complications with an openworked dial was designed to showcase the brand’s high-end watchmaking skills. The latest iteration of this model comes in a two-tone white gold and black ceramic case and an […]
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Fratello
Another Friday, another Top 5! Last week, we highlighted some of the best recent Audemars Piguet releases. This week, we do not focus on a brand but on a style of watch. It’s a style that Audemars Piguet is no stranger to, by the way. We have recently seen quite a few impressive perpetual calendar […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Current Perpetual Calendar Watches - A Selection At Different Price Points to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Unique and ultra-rare was the name of the game, with F.P. Journe, Audemars Piguet, and Rolex owned by Schumacher being sold.The post Michael Schumacher’s collection exceeds $4 million at Christie’s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
This month’s Dispatch explores the changes in the market we’ve seen against the backdrop of new releases and discontinuations at Watches and Wonders 2023. We also bring you our usual coverage of high level trends for our Overall Market Index and the Big Three brands: Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
One of Zenith’s latest releases, the Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph, takes a sensible step in the direction of familiarity, but also keeps things fresh and new. A stainless steel, integrated bracelet sports chronograph has been done by many brands, and now Zenith is able to punch a weight class above and compete with the likes of Vacheron and Audemars Piguet.
Fratello
How’s that? A G-Shock in the shape of Audemars Piguet’s most iconic model, sporting a module numbered like Patek Philippe’s most iconic watch? I can’t believe that’s a coincidence. I think Casio is joking with the watch industry on the other end of the spectrum. Of course, there is nothing wrong with that, though Casio […] Visit Hands-On: G-Shock GA-2140RX-7A 40th Anniversary Clear Remix Edition to read the full article.
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SJX Watches
Twenty twenty-three was a year where familiar complications were reimagined. The year’s standouts in terms of complications are characterised by good execution. Granted, most of of them are evolutionary, except perhaps for the Audemars Piguet Universelle, but a classic complication done well is arguably superior to a novel idea done badly. We asked our team members well versed with the year’s complications for their favourites and here they are. SJX The year’s most complicated and most impressive (multi) complication came from a surprising brand, Audemars Piguet. Even though it was the Royal Oak Travis Scott and Royal Oak Concept “Spider-Man” that captured the headlines, the Code 11:59 Universelle was questionably AP’s most important watch of the year from a watchmaking perspective. The Universelle manages to pack almost two dozen complications, including a grande sonnerie, perpetual calendar, split-seconds chronograph, and notably, automatic winding, into a case that’s just 42 mm wide and 15.55 mm high – a positively slender case by the standards of grand complications. By comparison, the F.P. Journe Astronomic is 44 mm by 13.7 mm, while the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime measures 47.7 mm by 16.07 mm. AP managed to do that with sophisticated and ingenious engineering, most notably by integrating the split-seconds mechanism into the automatic winding hub. The clever technical solutions are also evident in the calendar, which has an extra-thin construction...
SJX Watches
Having began as a small-scale and mostly regional event in 2015 – I was there and thought it would become important one day – Dubai Watch Week (DWW) has since grown into an expansive horological extravaganza with an international audience. With some 23,000 visitors, a 42% increase over the 2021 event, this year’s DWW is the biggest to date. Sixty-three brands took part, ranging from giants like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Chanel, to independent watchmakers like F.P. Journe, Rexhep Rexhepi, and H. Moser & Cie. Some brands even launched all-new products at DWW. MB&F;, for instance, launched its headline creation for the year, the HM11, at the event. As Director General of DWW, Hind Seddiqi is one of the individuals who makes DWW possible. We discussed with her vision for DWW, ranging from its emphasis on independent watchmaking to the future of horological education in the region, which includes a WOSTEP watchmaking academy in Dubai. The interview was edited for length and clarity. The MB&F; HM11, one of the watches launched during DWW SJX: I remember the first Dubai Watch Week was inside the mall. Now it’s a separate setup that’s impressive. And even though it’s grown, I like the fact that you retain all the independents. Hind Seddiqi (HS): [Indpendents are] extremely important and if you enter into the [fair] in the afternoons you will see they’re the ones who are the busiest with customers wanting to meet the watchmakers. SJX: How do the independents relate to...
Quill & Pad
It’s been more than ten years since the De Bethune DB28 won the Aiguille d’Or at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. Effectively the “Best Picture” at the “Oscars” of watchmaking, this recognition placed De Bethune among the elite company of Aiguille d’Or winners such as F.P. Journe, Greubel Forsey, Breguet, Audemars Piguet, A. Lange & Söhne, and Patek Philippe. A decade removed from its Hollywood ending, the DB28 remains a grail watch in every sense.
Time+Tide
With the recent retirements of tennis superstars Roger Federer (Rolex) and Serena Williams (Audemars Piguet), and with veterans like Rafael Nadal (Richard Mille) on the back nine of their careers, watch brands have been snapping up next-gen talent. At the start of the 2023 Wimbledon tournament, here’s a look at some of the tennis young … ContinuedThe post Holding court: Wimbledon and the next generation of tennis’ young watch ambassadors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Often watch brands release their new products at the same time so they’re all fighting for the spotlight. But Audemars Piguet is very good at picking their moments to dominate the conversation the week something drops (like introducing a slew of new novelties during their AP Social Club at the beginning of each year). Well, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: AP has a MARVELous week with a new watch, new CEO and US$6.2M auction result appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
The Geneva spring auction season kicks off soon and as expected, most of the weekend’s highlights are the usual timepieces from establishment brands and independent watchmakers, including one that is a mix of both, the Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch made by Philippe Dufour. But one of the season’s most intriguing lot is altogether different – the Patek Philippe Ref. 1252 “Chameleon” that’ll go under the hammer at Antiquorum. Both intriguing and quirky, the ref. 1252 “Chameleon” is essentially a sculptural bracelet that happens to have a small, manual-wind movement installed. While such bracelet wristwatches are common for jewellers like Cartier and Bulgari, the “Chameleon” is decidedly unconventional for Patek Philippe. Made in the late 1940s, this example of the “Chameleon” is only the second one known. The first example resides in the Patek Philippe Museum as inventory no. P-107. The “Chameleon” is perhaps more object than timekeeper. It has an estimate of CHF50,000-100,000 – arguably not so much for a sculptural Patek Philippe of which only two are known, or a pricey, oddball ladies’ watch. But it is unquestionably interesting and perhaps one of the most intriguing objects on the block this weekend. The “Chameleon” is lot 450 and has an estimate of CHF50,000-100,000. Its archive extract has been ordered and is pending according to Antiquorum. For more, visit Antiquorum.com.
Time+Tide
We have yet to lose novelty steam in 2023, so once again we have a fair bit of news from the week to recap. Vamos! Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet makes its first-ever debut in stainless steel Steel makes its first ever-debut in the Code 11.59 collection, resulting in a new lower CHF 21,000 entry … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: First-ever steel Code 11.59s, new Hublot x Murakami, Dubai Watch Week 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
One evening, WMMT was sipping away at his ex-wife’s stock of 1945 Pétrus with his buddy Slippery Steve and contemplating a few of the essential questions in life, the kind that rarely find a real answer. Is there life after death? Can you really wear brown shoes after 6:00 PM? Is his Audemars Piguet a fake? Following on that conversation, Slippery Steve and WMMT offer you six easy ways to recognize if your watch is fake. No prior knowledge needed and entertaining photography guaranteed!
SJX Watches
It’s been six years since Bucherer inaugurated Bucherer Blue, a line of special-edition watches made specifically for the Swiss retailer by watchmakers ranging from Tudor to Audemars Piguet. Dressed in the Bucherer’s corporate colour of dark blue, the Bucherer Blue collection has become one of the retailer’s defining qualities. The latest to join the collection is a sports watch from H. Moser & Cie., the Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue, which features a flying tourbillon on a smoked grey dial framed by a ring of blue sapphires. Initial thoughts Visually simple in the typical Moser style but far from plain, the Streamliner Tourbillon is an attractive watch to begin with. It retains the no-frills look of a sports watch yet while managing to dial up the technical features with a double-hairspring flying tourbillon at six o’clock. The Bucherer Blue edition takes the idea of contrasting simplicity and complexity further with a gem-set bezel that certainly adds sparkle without taking away from the clean lines of the Streamliner. At a distance the bezel might evoke the coloured bezel inserts that are common in sports watches, though up close it is undeniably bling. But the gems blend well into the design as the uniform colour of the stones and graduated, geometric pattern they form both suit the Streamliner aesthetic perfectly. And the dial is a restrained, pale grey – naturally in Moser’s trademark smoked finish – that doesn’t compete with the sapphires...
Time+Tide
Running until October 1, the Ineichen Auctioneers Vintage watch auction consists of 72 lots of old-school goodness. It features everything from Patek Philippe to Audemars Piguet and beautiful dress watches to classic sport references. With so much up for grabs, I decided to pick five lots that spoke to me. Five watches, that if I … ContinuedThe post My top five picks from the Ineichen Vintage Wristwatch auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
For the last month every publication under the sun has seen a traffic gold-mine in the purported “collapse” in secondary pricing for “hype” watches from Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe among others. Even we tackled the subject with our own reader-alluring doom and gloom headline. But, after fully digesting the situation, I am beginning … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Are publications hyping up “collapsing” watch prices? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It is kind of a shame that a barometer for the success of a watch reference is when it is not readily available to purchase at retail. In an era of “unobtanium” Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, these super-hot brands all have standard-production watches selling at a premium due to their lack of availability. … ContinuedThe post Zenith Defy Skyline joins Chronomaster Sport as a “waiting list” model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having rounded up a few highlights from the independents at the Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong watch auction taking place on May 27 and 28, we now turn to the notable complicated watches. We selected five watches, most of which are exceptionally complicated and extremely expensive when they were new, making them value buys today. These include lesser known watches from major brands, such as as the Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon and the Audemars Piguet Millenary Minute Repeater with an unusual direct-impulse escapement. And the selection also includes a unique Patek Philippe ref. 3974 with a dial bearing Breguet numerals and an unusual Calatrava cross (which won’t likely be a value buy unfortunately). Registration for bidding and the full catalogue for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV can be accessed here. Lot 855: Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon Cartier’s modern-day venture into high horology was at its most ambitious with the Fine Watchmaking collection launched in 2008, which included various creative complications such as the range of mystery watches. But amongst the most complicated watches in the collection was Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon, a complicated watch executed in a classical style. But the movement was constructed in an unconventional manner with most of the mechanics inverted so that the repeater gongs and hammers are visible on the dial. And the calibre also incorporates tech...
SJX Watches
Having unveiled a series of integrated-bracelet watches in candy-coloured ceramic at Watches & Wonders 2022, Hublot has followed up with a “high complication” in ceramic, the Big Bang Integral Cathedral Minute Repeater Ceramic. While complicated watches in end-to-end ceramic already exist, striking watches in ceramic are rare, with only Hublot and Audemars Piguet having made such watches. The Big Bang Integral is novel for combining both a tourbillon and repeater, one with longer-than-usual cathedral gongs in fact. And it manages to be water resistant in contrast to most striking watches that are merely moisture-proof, due to the challenge of sealing the slide while allowing maximum sound transmission. Initial thoughts The latest Big Bang Integral perfectly encapsulates Hublot as a brand, illustrating its strengths (and a few weaknesses). It’s powered by a complex, in-house movement contained matched with a case and bracelet that showcases the brand’s proficiency with unusual materials – all of which is possible thanks to the brand’s expansive yet agile manufacture. In typical Hublot fashion, the watch is loud – visually rather than acoustically – even in black. It looks like a Hublot, and the brand has essentially only one aesthetic. It has a technical, modern aesthetic that goes well with the open dial, a feature that’s uncommon in minute repeaters but useful since it reveals the entirety of the strikework. At almost US$300,000, the Tourbillon Repeat...
Time+Tide
A core component of being an auction house is curation, often under the scope of a particular theme. But, even with a theme in mind, we often see an abundance of the usual suspects: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. Swiss auction house Ineichen, however, loves to work outside the norm. Sure, they … ContinuedThe post Five sleeper picks from the upcoming “Precious Blues” Ineichen auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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