Two Broke Watch Snobs
I Know the Rolex Datejust Well. I’d Still Rather Wear This Oris
Oris gives the Big Crown Pointer Date a burgundy dial and Cervo Volante leather, creating an automatic watch I’d reach for over a Rolex Datejust.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Monochrome
First Look - A new Burgundy Dial for the Oris Big Crown x Cervo Volante
One of Oris‘ most emblematic watches, the Big Crown Pointer Date pilot watch has enjoyed a surprisingly long lifespan and is rightfully considered the brand’s icon. Introduced in 1938, the Big Crown was conceived as a tool watch for military and civilian pilots. As part of the brand’s ongoing “Change for the Better” sustainability campaign, […]
Hodinkee
Business News: Gallet’s Return Heralds Renewed Battle For Mid-Tier Priced Watch Segment
Backed by Breitling's House of Brands group, Gallet's return was hotly anticipated and closely scrutinized. Priced between $2,900 for a three-hand Flying Officer model with date and about $6,700 for the vintage-inspired 'Classics' models, replete with Breitling B09 hand-wound calibers, the revived brand's pricing at Breitling boutiques is certainly aggressive. Gallet's rebirth and price-category decision mark the most high-profile and ambitious attempt by the Swiss watch industry to reclaim a space it once owned but has largely ceded in recent years to so-called 'boutique' or micro-brands that have filled the gap left by traditional Swiss brands moving upscale.Over the past decade, brands have climbed the value-category ladder even higher, making fewer watches at higher prices. The so-called mid-tier premium—or luxury watches with an MSRP between $2,000 and $5,000—was once dominated by Swiss brands from Omega to Breitling to TAG Heuer and Jaeger-LeCoultre. And while TAG Heuer still produces plenty of watches in the category, including the solar-powered quartz Formula 1, much of its development and marketing resources have been focused on new pricier versions of classic chronographs housed in titanium or other lightweight materials including the highly innovative, but eye-wateringly expensive, Monaco 'Evergraph' retailing at more than $28,000. Several of the new Gallet watches are available on a steel bracelet that is the same used on some Breitling models. Photo Cre...
Worn & Wound
Formex Introduces the New AirField
Earlier this year when Formex unveiled the Aria, which is unquestionably their most ambitious watch to date, with a price point to match, there was a lot of talk among enthusiasts about what a higher price point could signal. The fear that Formex could be leaving behind more affordable watches (even though, for what the Aria is, it’s quite affordable – but that’s a separate topic) was something we saw articulated all over the Watch Internet. Of course, there was never any real danger of Formex abandoning value oriented watches, and the release of the new AirField, built on their popular field watch format, proves that point. What we have here is fairly straightforward. The AirField borrows the titanium case architecture of the Formex Field, and adds a reconfigured dial and hand set with a more directly aviation inspired look. The design brief here seems to be immediate legibility and clarity, filtered through a Formex aesthetic in a way that feels similar to how the Formex Field took easy wearing utility in the same direction. The basic touch points of pilot watches that we all understand are very much present here: broad, sword shaped hands, matched with clean and easy to read Arabic numerals (filled with lume, of course). Formex has even included the traditional 12:00 triangle in this dial execution. The case measures 40mm in diameter and Formex says it weighs just 54 grams. It also has a surface treatment that the brand claims results in a surface hardness rat...
Time+Tide
The complete calendar alternatives to the Rolex Perpetual Padellone
When you need to know the day, date, month, and moon phase in one glance, these are the watches to reach for.
Fratello
A Sumptuous Centenary: Hands-On With The New Nivada F77 MKII Stone Dials Collection
Although Nivada Grenchen re-entered the market in 2020 after decades of absence, its roots date back to its original establishment in 1926. To celebrate the 100th anniversary, Nivada is releasing seven new dial variations for one of its most popular models, which also underwent a facelift. I was lucky enough to put my hands on […] Visit A Sumptuous Centenary: Hands-On With The New Nivada F77 MKII Stone Dials Collection to read the full article.
Time+Tide
New releases from Blancpain, Czapek, Grand Seiko and more
This past week has been one for the ages. Rolex announces an annual calendar carrying an official nickname for the first time, Blancpain releases one of the smallest mechanical movements to date, and Grand Seiko brings back Arabic numerals after 25 years. There’s plenty more too, spanning other all sort of styles and budgets with … Continued
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: An Omega Suverän, A Universal Genève Cabriolet, A Vacheron Constantin Overseas, And A Vintage Zenith Chronograph
Congrats on making it through another week, Baller, and your reward, sadly, is not more information about an extraordinary new Rolex, nor is it a pretty fantastic video with a legendary rapper, but instead just a quick roundup of some excellent watches out waiting for new owners. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Smiths DeLuxe sold for 6,000 GBP, the Smiths W10 for €1,400, the Gübelin 18k triple-date moonphase remains available, the Universal Genève FS went for 600 GBP, and the Autavias sells today. Strays Photo courtesy of Drouot. If you've been holding onto an old steel chronograph pusher cap and don't know the case it works with, maybe have a look at this Heuer chronograph (presumably ref. 2444) and consider the JLC Memovox in the same lot an added bonus. Speaking of Memovox (I'm not guessing the plural of that noun), this sure checks a few boxes should you find yourself in the market for a lovely vintage example. I covered a Hamilton Cross Country a few weeks back, and here's a similar example if that one managed to get its hooks in you. For the Beatles mega-fan in your life, this Old England Apple watch is unlikely to be something they've seen (it's also unlikely to sell for less than 3x the €200 high estimate). This Vacheron Constantin 2045 is just lovely; this Corum bears a shocking resemblance to David Bowie's 1979 SNL performance look, and if there's a cooler tropicalized Carrera up for auction this week than this one, I didn't see it. Omega Suverän You'r...
Deployant
New: The 70s by Glashütte Original
It's been a hot minute since Glashütte Original released a 70s in a date and time configuration. Here's is our take on Glashütte's latest timepiece.
Monochrome
Introducing - The new Glashütte Original 70s Collection, a Reworked Take on the Integrated Sports Watch
While Glashütte Original‘s Seventies collection has become associated with its bold, square-shaped chronographs, the German manufacture also once offered Seventies Panaroma Date models without the chronograph function. Revisiting the decade with a substantially reworked watch, the brand returns to that time-and-date simplicity and presents the new 70s collection of integrated sports watches, alongside the existing […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Orient Star Stripped Down Their Latest Automatic Watch, and I Think It Works
The Orient Star Sakigake Three Hand strips away the date and power reserve for a cleaner design built around a new F7542 automatic movement.
WatchAdvice
Is A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia 36 Annual Calendar The Best Dress Watch Ever? (Hands-On)
A. Lange & Söhne put their best foot forward at Watches & Wonders 2026, but does it hit all their exacting standards? Let’s find out! What We Love: A compact watch that makes its presence known Legible despite its size Highly complex & beautifully finished What We Don’t: Little negative space; a consequence of compaction Date corrector disrupts symmetry Would you request the price? Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality:9.5/10 Of all the richness within German watchmaking, A. Lange & Söhne could be considered the most emblematic of the region. The veritable golden boy of German horology, it has often been cited as the mainstream leader in what best comprises the country’s ethos around mechanics and craftsmanship. Depending on who you ask, the history of the brand does get fuzzy, though not for any fault of their own. The realities of the Second World War, Soviet occupation, and consolidation under the Iron Curtain may never unscramble Glashütte’s complex past. What cannot be questioned, however, is the quality of work A. Lange & Söhne routinely produces. It’s why they’re often cited as the first step into luxuriously acquired taste, the first bold venture beyond the grip of the Swiss or Japanese industries, opening the veritable Pandora’s box that is haute horlogerie. As of late, though, they’ve even been shirking that archetype, rising to compete as one of the greatest watch brands around, regard...
Fratello
The Curious Case Of The Boring Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060
When it comes to watches, the little things often make the biggest difference. A power reserve indicator on the dial, the shape of a hand, or the location of a date are small but crucial factors in whether enthusiasts can fall in love with a watch. As a design fan and someone who worked in […] Visit The Curious Case Of The Boring Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New, and Splendid De Bethune DB25 Digitale
De Bethune, a co-founder of Geneva Watch Days, returns for the seventh edition with a beautiful piece that revisits the brand’s digital time display. Featured across various models, the first digital display appeared in 2006 with a sophisticated in-line calendar displaying the day, date and month, with jumping hours and a scrolling minute disc. Equipped […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Oris ProPilot Bronze
Last year, Oris refreshed the ProPilot Date, providing it with a cleaner case, revised proportions and a more contemporary take on the collection’s familiar aviation-inspired design. Now comes the first variation on that new watch: the Oris ProPilot Bronze, a warmer and more characterful interpretation that lets the material do much of the talking. The […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport
What We Know Now in its sixth decade as one of the most famous movements in the industry, the El Primero remains at the heart of Zenith's offerings. To kick off Geneva Watch Days, Zenith is doing something slightly different, launching a Chronomaster Sport without a chronograph—the Chronomaster Solo Sport. The watch arrives in four variations: three with ceramic dials and bezels in black, white, and brown, plus a no-date option also in black. All four come in a 40mm stainless steel case with a ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel. The dial features hours, minutes, and seconds, with date added on three of the four references. Despite losing the chronograph, there's still a lot going on up top. The words "36,000 VpH" and "high frequency" alone take up two lines of the dial, and the subtle "shark tooth" minute track gives a nod to vintage Zenith references. The dial itself is ceramic, built around a repeated 45° Z motif meant to evoke the rhythm and vibration of the movement underneath—rendered as a sunray finish on the white version and a polished surface on the black and brown versions. That same pattern carries over to the counterweight on the seconds hand. The El Primero 3620 powers the watch, derived from the El Primero 3600 chronograph movement and operating at 5 Hz, or 36,000 VpH, while retaining the star-shaped rotor. It's equipped with a silicon escapement and a stop-second mechanism for precise time-setting, and it offers a 60-hour power reserve. Also featur...
Monochrome
First Look - The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter, An Antiqua-Inspired Take on Ultra-Thin (Incl. Video)
For Geneva Watch Days 2026, Italian brand Bulgari and independent watchmaker Vianney Halter joined forces to bring us one of the most distinctive interpretations of the Octo Finissimo to date. Seen at a glance, the influence of Halter is unmistakable. The multiple displays, hands, white opaline surfaces and porthole-like bezels recall the legendary Antiqua, developed […]
Time+Tide
Longines adds a Monopusher and more to updated Master Collection
The brand debuts new Longines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher, Chrono Moonphase, and 30mm, 34mm, 39mm, and 41mm time and date models.
Fratello
Longines Impressively Expands The Master Collection
Within the Longines lineup, the Master collection focuses on the rich history of the brand’s craftsmanship and watchmaking elegance. Back in June, the time-and-date Master models got a complete overhaul. Longines now introduces a new dial variation of the Master 41, an updated version of the Master Chrono Moonphase, and the impressive Master Chrono Monopusher. […] Visit Longines Impressively Expands The Master Collection to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Longines Master Collection Launches A New Monopusher Chronograph Alongside A Refresh Of The Triple Calendar Chrono
Earlier this year, Longines started rolling out a refresh of its dressy, polished Master Collection. But while that update was relegated to a large array of time-and-date models, I think today's new product launch brings something much more noteworthy to the table. There are two main additions: one by way of an update to a classic Longines chronograph, and the other, the first monopusher chronograph designed for the Longines Master Collection. The Updated Master Collection Chrono Moonphase The first is a refresh of the Master Collection Chrono Moonphase, ref. L2.962.4.73.2, largely an aesthetic refinement over the outgoing model. First is the consolidation of two case options, 40mm and 42mm, meeting in the middle at a 41mm diameter for the new generation. The thickness of the stainless steel case measures 13.8 mm (down from 14.2mm), and the lug-to-lug comes in at a large but not oversized 48.6mm. The case silhouette remains largely untouched here, reflecting the soft, fully polished case design with little in the way of contrasting lines or faceting on the exterior, which is exaggerated by the polished concave bezel. Most of the changes come by way of the dial, which combines a whole slew of small design changes for what is, in my opinion, a significantly improved design. Iterating on the brand's familiar barleycorn-textured dial, Longines cleans up a lot of the typography for a much more balanced look overall. It's essential for what is quite a busy dial, needing to cra...
WristBuzz
Omega Speedmaster 38 refresh: the mini Moonwatch nobody was allowed to want
Round subdials are back. A no-date black-dial variant reads as a shrunk Moonwatch. Seven references, cal. 3330 / 3332 with silicon hairspring, prices from €6,400 to €12,900. This is the Speedmaster Reduced successor the community has been asking Omega for since 2014.
WristBuzz
Glashütte Original Launches Two New Senator Chronographs for 2026, and They Could Not Be More Different
A cleaner dress flyback and a tool-watch navigator replace the outgoing Panorama Date models. Both are worth your attention.
WatchAdvice
Hands-On Review With The Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver
We go hands-on with the new Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver, and see why this is the watch Grand Seiko fans and watch enthusiasts have been wanting! What We Love The new case size and dimensions That dial, I mean, seriously?! The new bracelet and clasp design What We Don’t The lack of a date window The full titanium construction may not be to everyone’s liking The anti-magnetism could be increased to accommodate modern life Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value For Money: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 This year, Grand Seiko upped the ante and took the fight to the swath of other luxury dive watches on the market with the release of its new Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver, which was released at Watches & Wonders 2026. It was the dive watch Grand Seiko enthusiasts had been wanting and waiting for. A smaller, more wearable diver that was a little more contemporary than the models it replaced. With a raft of changes, including a smaller, better-proportioned case, a redesigned bracelet, new micro-adjustment and a more modern dial aesthetic, the new Ushio 300 Diver ticked so many boxes. Plus, Grand Seiko decided that steel was too heavy for a sports watch, so they made it from High-Intensity Titanium instead. The 2026 Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver models We had the privilege of previewing it before Watches & Wonders, and while the article I wrote up for the Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A 300 Ushio Diver was a ...
Monochrome
Introducing - Tutima Expands its Fleet with the Compact Flieger T5 in Titanium
Tutima, based in Glashütte, earned its wings in the 1940s with its military and pilot’s watches and, in 1941, produced Germany’s first two-pusher flyback chronograph (later referred to as the Flieger). In 2019, Tutima released a contemporary, less tool-oriented, time-and-date take on the Flieger. The latest model to join the squadron is the Flieger T5, […]
WatchRider
Timex Automatic E Line Grows to 38mm With Three New Integrated-Bracelet Models
Timex has introduced a larger 38mm version of the Automatic E Line, turning the compact design that returned in 2024 into a more substantial watch with an integrated-bracelet appearance. The new range includes the silver TW6A00500, the two-tone TW6A00600 and the teal TW6A00700. All three share the same case dimensions, Japanese automatic movement, horizontally textured dial and date display. The teal TW6A00700 brings the strongest colour to the new 38mm Automatic E Line. This is not the first modern E Line. Timex revived the design as the Automatic 1983 E Line Reissue with a 34mm rounded-square case. That watch followed the size and simple character of the original more closely. The 38mm models keep the familiar TV-shaped outline but move the collection in a more modern direction. They are larger, thicker and fitted with a conventional butterfly clasp instead of the tool-free expansion band used by the smaller version. A 1983 Timex design in a much larger case The E Line name reaches back to a Timex watch from 1983. Its rounded-square case became known as a TV dial shape. The E Line name was connected to New York’s E subway line, which carried commuters toward Manhattan’s business district. The modern 34mm reissue brought that idea back in November 2024 with a stainless-steel case, an acrylic crystal and a Japanese automatic movement. The new watch is better described as a larger update inspired by that reissue rather than a strict recreation. Its 38mm stainless-steel ...
Fratello
The Simple Pleasures Of Field Watch Design
There’s a particular kind of contentment that comes from wearing a watch that asks nothing of you, and the master of this is the field watch. No complications to set, no bezel to align, no story to tell anyone who asks. Just a black dial, white numerals, two hands, and maybe a date. I feel […] Visit The Simple Pleasures Of Field Watch Design to read the full article.
Fratello
The Modest Moonwatch Alternative: Omega’s Speedmaster Reduced
Many of you will know that, from 1988 to 2010, Omega offered a smaller alternative to its Moonwatch known as the Speedmaster Reduced (reference 3510.50.00). There was also a series of smaller Speedmaster models that looked similar to the Reduced and offered a date or calendar, but only one used the original Moonwatch as a […] Visit The Modest Moonwatch Alternative: Omega’s Speedmaster Reduced to read the full article.
Monochrome
Hands-on - Nomos Hits the Sweet Spot with the Tangente Neomatik 38 Update
Unlike the noise generated by the release of the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimers in 2025, Nomos Glashütte’s novelties at Watches & Wonders this year focused more on refined versions of its core collection. Among these refinements was the Tangente Neomatik 38 Update, featuring the brand’s patented peripheral ring date complication, which returned in a more […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Masterpiece SBGZ011 Review: Fluid Artistry And Feather-Thin Engineering
The "Mystic Waterfall" SBGZ011 combines a hand-engraved platinum case with one of the thinnest Spring Drive movements to date. More
WatchRider
Mido Multifort 8 One Crown Goes Fully Black in PVD
Mido has added a full-black version to the Multifort 8 One Crown range for summer 2026. Reference M055.507.37.051.00 takes the angular case and simple three-hand layout of the existing model and gives almost every exterior part a black finish. The result is much darker than the steel versions, but the polished hands, raised hour markers and white date display keep it easy to read. This is not just a new dial colour. Mido has applied black PVD to the 316L stainless-steel case, bezel, crown and pin buckle, then paired the watch with a fitted black rubber strap. It changes the character of the Multifort 8 One Crown without changing the practical dimensions or the Caliber 80 automatic movement that made the original model interesting. The black PVD coating still allows the brushed and polished case surfaces to stand apart. From two crowns to one The Multifort name dates back to 1934, when Mido used it for a watch designed around automatic winding, water resistance, resistance to magnetism and protection against shocks. The current Multifort 8 family carries that practical idea into a much more modern shape. The first Multifort 8 design used two crowns, including one to operate an internal rotating bezel. The One Crown removes that extra control and the internal timing scale. That gives the dial more room, reduces visual clutter and makes the case slimmer. It also turns the watch into a straightforward hours-minutes-seconds model with a date window, which will make more sense f...